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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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V^  % 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


vV 


I 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notas  techniques  st  bibiiographiques 


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D 


Coloured  covers/ 
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□    Covers  damaged/ 
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□    Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurie  et/ou  pelliculie 

□    Cover  title  missing/ 
Le  tiire  de  couverture  n. 


.dnque 


r~n    Coloured  ma>:ii/ 


Cartes  giographiques  en  couleur 


□    Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

j      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


D 
D 


D 


D 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


Bound  with  ether  material/ 
ReiiA  avec  d'autres  documents 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serr^e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
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pas  iti  film^es. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentairas  supplimentaires; 


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I      I    Coloured  pages/ 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
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Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxei 
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nn    Pages  damaged/ 

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rri    Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 


□Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d^tachees 

0Showthrough/ 
Transparence 


Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Quality  inigale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  materia 
Comprend  du  materiel  supplementaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


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I      I    Includes  supplementary  material/ 

I      I    Only  edition  available/ 


n 


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Ce  document  est  filmA  au  taux  de  rMuction  indiqui  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


I         I         I 


J 


12X 


16X 


20X 


26X 


30X 


24X 


28X 


n 


32X 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

National  Library  of  Canada 


L'exemplaire  filmi  fut  reproduit  grflce  d  la 
gdn^rositi  de: 

Bibliothdque  nationale  du  Canada 


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conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


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the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  covet  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustr&ted  impression. 


Los  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couv6rture  an 
papier  est  imprimte  sont  f  ilm6s  en  commen^ant 
par  le  premier  plat  ot  en  terminant  solt  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
Diet,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmds  en  commenqant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comports  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — »•  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED "),  or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  app&raftra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  micrufiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc..  peuvent  6tre 
filmds  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diff^rents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  cllchd,  il  est  filmd  d  partir 
de  I'angle  sup^rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  has,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

'*r 


THINGS  AS  THEY  AKE 


IN 


AMEEICA. 


BT 


W.  CHAMBEKS. 


■^  ■  t  >  »■ 


PHILADELPHIA: 

LIPPINCOTT,  GRAMBO  &  CO. 

1854. 


■ 


230858 


In  t] 
for  c 
with 
Ame] 

of    Vf 

some 

Stat] 

mark! 
meat 


Glen( 


In  the  autumn  of  1853,  I  was  advised  to  cross  the  Atlantic 
for  change  of  air  and  scene;  and  as  the  suggestion  coincided 
with  my  own  desire,  foiled  on  other  grounds,  to  visit 
America,  I  gladly  assented.  The  present  work  is  a  narrative 
of  what  chiefly  fell  under  observation  during  my  tour  in 
some  of  the  British  American  Possessions  and  United 
STATES-the  recollection  of  which  excursion,  and  of  the  many 
marks  of  undeserved  kindness  I  received,  wiU  always  be  to 
me  a  source  of  unqualified  gratification. 


W.  Chambers. 


Glenormiston,  Aitffust  1854. 


CI 


CI 


CE 


CH 


CH 


CH 


CH 


CH. 


CH. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    I. 

PAOR 

YOYAGE   FROM   LIVERPOOL   TO   HALIFAX,    .  .         1 

CHAPTER    II. 

NOVA   SCOTIA, 24, 

CHAPTER    III. 

BOSTON   TO  MONTREAL,  .  .  ,  ,  ,45 

CHAPTER    IV, 

MONTREAL,  «„ 

CHAPTER    V. 

QUEBEC,   ...  K« 

CHAPTER    VI. 

ONTARIO-NIAGARA gg 

CHAPTER    VII, 

TORONTO-CANADA-WEST,       .  .  .  ,  .113 

CHAPTER    VIII. 

CANADA-WEST   TO   MICHIGAN jgS 

CHAPTER    IX. 

OHIO-CINCINNATI j^g 


ti  CONTENTS.  ^ 

CHAPTER    X.  PAO* 

CINCINNATI    TO   NEW   TOBK,  .  ,  ,  .158 

CHAPTER    XI. 

NEW   YORK .171 

CHAPTER    XII. 

NEW   YORK   CONCLUDED,         .  ,  ,  .  ,      101 

CHAPTER    XIII. 

BOSTON— LOWELL, 910 

CHAPTER    XIV. 

RHODE   ISLAND, 297 

CHAPTER    XV. 

WASHINGTON, .349 

CHAPTER    XVI. 

RICHMOND,    IN    VIRGINIA, 367 

CHAPTER    XVII. 

CONGRESS, .     387 

CHAPTER    XVIII. 

PHILADELPHI:. 804 

CHAPTER    XIX. 

RAILWAYS,    TELEGRAPHS,    AND   OTHER   THINGS,      323 

CHAPTER    XX. 

GENERAL   OBSERVATIONS, 340 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


CHAPTER    I. 

VOYAGE    FROM    LIVERPOOL    TO    HALIFAX. 

A  VISIT    to    America   is    usually  one    of   the    early 
aspirations    of    the    more    impressionable    youth    of 
England.      The    stirring    stories    told    of   Columbus, 
Sebastian  Cabot,  Raleigh,   and  Captain  John  Smith  • 
the    history    of    the    Pilgrim    Fathers    fleeing    from 
persecution;    the   description    of   Pernios    transactions 
with  the  Indians;  the  narratives  of  the  gallant  achieve- 
ments of  Wolfe  and  Washington,  and  the  lamentable 
humiliations  of  Burgoyne  and  Cornwallis;  the  exciting 
autobiography  of  the  Philadelphian  printer,  who,  from 
toUing  at  the  press,  rose  to  be  the  companion  of  kings 
--all  had  their  due   effect   on  my  imagination,  and 
stimulated  the  desire  I  felt  to  cross  the  Atlantic,  and 
see  the  country  which  had  bc3n  the  theatre  of  so  many 
interesting  events,  and  latterly  the  scene  of  so  many 
social  developments.      The  ordinary  occupations  of  a 
busy  life,   however,   had   dispelled  this   early   dream 
Like  other   ardently  but  vaguely  entertained  notions. 
It  vamshed  and  was  forgotten,  when  circumstances  all 
at  once  recalled  it  to  mind,  and  rendered  its  reahsation 


99 


9  THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 

possible.  In  short,  towards  the  close  of  1853,  I  was 
enabled  to  visit  tlie  more  interesting  portions  of  North 
America,  where  the  rapid  rate  at  which  travellers  are 
whirled  from  place  to  place,  left  me  a  reasonable  time 
for  observation  and  inquiry. 

When  a  thing  has  to  be  brought  down  from  the 
realms  of  fancy,  to  be  considered  in  its  practical  details, 
it  is  astonishing  how  many  Httle  difficulties  require  to 
be  encountered  and  overcome.  In  the  present  instance, 
I  had  to  determine,  in  the  first  place,  which  route  I 
should  adopt.  Should  I  go  by  way  of  the  British 
American  provinces,  or  leave  them  to  be  reached  after 
visiting  the  United  States  ?  I  resolved  to  set  out  direct 
for  one  of  the  nearest  of  the  colonial  possessions — 
Nova  Scotia,  and  pass  on  thence  to  Canada,  by  this 
means  taking  the  more  northerly  parts  first.  Perhaps, 
also,  the  fact  of  the  Nova  Scotian  peK'nsula  being 
ordinarily,  and  it  may  be  said,  unjustly,  neglected  by 
tourists,  helped  to  fix  my  resolution,  and  accordingly 
I  engaged  a  berth  in  the  America,  one  of  the  Cunard 
line  of  steamers  bound  from  Liverpool  to  Boston,  and 
touching  at  Halifax. 

It  was  on  a  dull  September  morning,  with  a  thick 
fog  overhanging  the  Mersey,  that  I  found  myself 
amidst  a  crowd  of  persons  standing  on  the  deck  of  a 
small  steamer  at  the  landing-quay  of  Liverpool.  In 
the  forepart  of  the  vessel  was  a  huge  pile  of  boxes, 
bags,  and  portmanteaus,  the  luggage  of  the  passengers ; 
while  the  middle  and  after  parts  were  so  thickly 
covered  with  human  beings,  as  to  leave  barely  standing- 
room.  The  duty  of  this  Kttle  craft,  called  '  the  tender,* 
is  to  carry  passengers  from  the  shore  to  the  steam-ship 
that  lies  moored  in  the  middle  of  the  river,  and  which, 
having  previously,  while  in  dock,  taken  on  board  all  its 
cargo,  is  now  ready  to  start  out  to  sea.  As  nine  o'clock 
struck,  the  tender  moved  away  from  the  shore,  and  in 


VOYAGE  FROM  LIVERPOOL  TO  HALIFAX.  • 

two  minutes  was  enveloped  in  the  foff  — a  most 
dangerous  situation,  for  the  Mersey  was  studded  over 
with  vessels  m  various  attitudes,  and  at  any  instant  we 
migh  rush  violently  against  them.  Sueh  a  catastrophe 
actually  occurred.  By  what  I  must  consider  to  have 
been  incautious  steering,  the  small  steamer  was  brought 
suddenly  into  coUision  with  the  bows  of  a  lar^-e  vessel 

!ble°'^'T^'?'*rT  ff*^^*^^'^  «^^«^ed  to  be  inevit: 
able.     With  mdescribable  alarm  I   expected  that  the 
vessel  would  pass  over  us,  and  that  we  should  all  be 
mimcdiately  struggling  beneath  the  flood.     There  was 
a  rush  to  the  roof  of  the  smaU  engine-room,  as  bcl" 
likely  to  remam  longest  above  water.     I  climbed  to  the 
highest  point  near  me,  and  looked  ahead  for  the  coming 
shock.      A   moment   of  extreme   excitement   ensued 
Crash  went  m  the  bulwarks  of  the  tender,  and  down 
went  Its  mast  across  the  pile  of  luggage!     I  thought 
aU  was  over.     Fortmiately,  the  bowsprit  of  the  We 
vessel,  m  coming  in  contact  with   Ad  breaking  oS 
mas.    s  ightly  turned  off  the  collision,  and  we  imm^ 
diately  lost  sight  of  her  great  hull  in  the  mist.     We 
felt,  as  It  were,  a  reprieve  from  death,  and  looked  each 
other  in  the  face  with  a  feeling  of  congratulation.  Then 
broke  forth  on  the  unlucky  steersman!  shower  of  those 
war^  epithets   which    the    English,   in    moments    of 
mdignation,  scatter  about  with  characteristic  liberality. 
Idiot-ass-fool !  were  pelted  at  him  all  the  rest  of  the 
way;  nor  did  we  feel  safe  from  a  fresh  calamity  tiU  we 
were  alongside  of  the  America^  ,hich  towered  like  a 

planted  on  her  capacious  poop.  The  tender,  it  is 
needless  to  say,  had  a  veiy  damaged  appearance  Her 
mast  and  cordage  lay  athwart  the  confrised  mass  of 
baggag^  some  of  which  was  broken  in  pieces,  and  me 
had  gone  overboard.  Whether  such  incidents  are 
common  at  Liverpool,  I  do  not  know.     It  ifat  aU 


I 


4  THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 

events,  clear  that  the  method  of  putting  passengers  on 
board  American  vessels,  in  a  foggy  river,  jy  means  of 
small  and  overcrowded  tenders,  is  a  very  bad  one ;  and 
I  have  no  hesitation  in  saying,  that  there  is  more 
danger  Lo  life  from  this  practice,  than  in  a  whole 
voyage  across  the  Atlantic. 

The  America  did  not  immediately  depart.  The  mails 
were  stiU  to  be  put  on  board,  and  these  did  not  arrive 
in  a  subsequent  trip  of  the  tender  till  nearly  noon. 
When  tlxey  made  their  appearance,  they  consisted  of  at 
least  two  cart-loads  of  weU-stufted  leather  bags,  with 
some  boxes  containing  Lpecial  dispatches  for  Canada. 
The  whole  "laving  been  transferred  to  the  hold  in  the 
large  steamer,  the  captain  and  pilot  took  their  places 
on  the  paddle-box,  the  other  oflacers  went  to  their 
appropriate  posts,  the  bell  was  rung,  the  wheels  moved, 
and  we  were  off.  Slowly  at  first  did  the  great  floating 
mass  proceed  through  the  water.  The  mists  which  lay 
to  seaward  were  not  yet  quite  dispelled  by  the  sun,  and 
to  go  down  the  Mersey  required  careful  guidance.  For 
half  an  hour,  the  passengers  leant  over  the  brass 
railings  of  the  elevated  poop,  catching  glimpses  of  the 
partbig  quays— some  waving  hats  or  handkerchiefs  to 
friends  far  in  the  receding  distance — some,  myself  for 
one,  thinking  of  those  dear  to  them  at  home,  and  half 
doubtful  of  our  own  safe  return  to  Old  England. 
Gradually,  the  ship  got  into  greater  speed  j  for  an 
instant  it  paused  in  its  career,  to  allow  the  pilot  to 
descend  to  his  boat;  again  it  moved  along,  and  we 
were  fairly  on  our  course.  The  direction  it  took  was 
straight  up  the  Channel  between  Ireland  and  the  Isle 
of  Man.  It  was  going  what  is  called  'north  about,' 
which  is  preferred  to  the  southern  passage  in  certain 
states  of  wind  and  tide. 

As  the  vessel  gained  the  open  sea,  and  left  nothing 
to  look  at  but  the  wide-spread  waters,  one  by  one  tlie 


VOYAGE  FKOM  LIVERPOOL  TO  HALIFAX.  5 

passengers  descended  to  view  the  nature  of  their  own 
particular  accommodations,  or  to  inspect  the  general 
mechanism  of  the  ship.  To  me,  at  least,  everything 
was  new  and  curious;  and,  for  the  sake  of  the  unini- 
tiated, I  wm  try  to  give  an  idea  of  what  came  under 
my  notice. 

As  is  pretty  weU  known,  there  are  two  chief  and 
distinct  lines  of  steamers.     One,  the  Cunard,  so  caUed 
axter  Mr  Cunard  of  Halifax,  who  was  its  projector,  is 
exclusively  British  property,  and  has  a  large  money- 
grant  from  om-   government   for   carrying   the  mails, 
borne  of  its  vessels  sail  direct  to  and  from  New  York 
the  remainder  to  and  from  Boston,  caUing  at  Halifax! 
The  other  hue,  caUed  the  Collins,  is  American  property 
and  sails  only  to  and  from  New  York;  it  is  subsidised 
by  the  Umted  States'  government  also  for  mal^  pur- 
poses      These  two  lines  are  in  many  respects  rivals, 
but,   by   a  judicious   an-angement,   the  vessels   depart 
from  each  port  on  different  days  of  the  week,  so  that 
no    actual    mconvenience    is    experienced    from    their 
competition.     Latterly,  there  has  sprmig  up  a  separate 
hne  of  steamers  to  and  from  Philadelphia,  and  another 
to  and  from  Portland;  but  of  these  I  do  not  need  here 
to  speak.     It  IS  by  the  Cunard  and  CoUins  steamers 
.hat  the  mtercourse  with   North   America  is   mainly 
earned  on,  and  on  both  sides  of  the  Atlantic  there  is 
much  keenness  of  feeling  as  to  their  respective  merits. 
Ihe  Cmiards   are   strong   and   compact   vessels,    built 
whoUy  m  the  Clyde,  and  possess  engines  of  th    m^ 
trustworthy  workmanship.     They   are  likewise  in  the 
charge  of  first-rate  seamen.  But,  from  the  rounded  fomx 

thevT     T  -7  'T  "*^''  architectural  peculiarity, 
t  ey  do  not  sail  so  fast  as  the  CoUins  steamers,  and 

TZt?fT'  -the  decks  to  an  unpleasant  extent 

They  also  faU  considerably  short  of  the  CoUinses  in  point 

^  .....  ..^«  ^.Lc^uuuuoi  accommodation;  and  I 


6 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


am  sorry  to  say  that,  in  the  ticket-dispensing  depart- 
ment at  Liverpool,  there  is  great  room  for  increased 
attention  and  pohteness.     On  calling  to  get  my  ticket 
on  the  night  previous  to  departure,  I  experienced  such 
treatment  as  might  be  expected  by  a  pauper  emigrant 
who  went  to  seek  an  eleemosynary  passage.     Nor  was 
this  the  worst  of  it;  for  although  paying  the  highest 
fare,  £25,  which  I  had  remitted  ten  days  previously 
and  although  informed  that  one   of  the  best  berths 
in  the  ship  had  been  assigned  to  me,   I  found  that 
this   said   exceUent  berth   was  among  the   fore-cabin 
passengers— a  cii'cumstance  that  led  to  much  discomfort 
during  the  voyage,  as  I  shall  afterwards  have  occasion  to 
notice.  I  allude  to  these  circumstances  with  reluctance 
and  only  under  a  sense  of  public  duty. 

On  board  the  AmeHca,  which  bears  a  close  resem- 
blance to  the   other  vessels  in   the  line,   there  was 
nothing  to  find  fault  with,  but,  on  the  contrary,  much 
to  commend.     Everything  in  the  Cunards  goes  on,  as 
the  saying  is,  ^like  clock-work.'     In  the  striking  of 
bells  changing  of  watches,  posting  of  officers,  throwing 
the  log,  taking  solar  observations,  and  other  transac- 
tions, there  is   all  the  regularity  and  precision  of  a 
man-of-war;  and  this  imparts  a  feeling  of  security  even 
m  the  worst  states  of  the  weather,  by  night  or  day 
The  burden  of  the  America  is  1833  tons,  and  its  length 
about  249  feet;  it  has  two  large  engines,  which  act 
separately  or  together  on  both  paddle-wheels,  and  in 
ordinary   circumstances  give  a  speed  of  from  ten  to 
twelve  mHes  an  hour.     The  quantity  of  fael  consumed 
18  trom  fifty  to  Lixty  tons  a  day;  necessitating  a  stock 
on  board  of  about  900  tons  of  coal  for  the  trip,  and  so 
leaving  space  for  900  tons  for  freight  and  misceUaneous 
articles. 

It  is  wonderful  to  see  how  much  is  made  of  the 
internal   accommodation.      A  great  deal  is   done   on 


B  resem- 


VOYAGE  FROM  LIVERPOOL  TO  HALIFAX.  7 

deck.     There  is  reaUy  little  deck  visible.    Along  each 
side,    adjoining   the   paddle-box,    there  is    a  row  of 
small  apartments,  covered  with  woe  1,  and  over  these 
are  empty  boats  turned  upside  down,  ready  for  launch- 
ing in  case  of  accident.      In  the  open  space  beneath 
these  boats,  the  cook  keeps  his  fresh  vegetables,  and 
you  occasionaUy  see  one   of  his   assistants   climbing 
up  to  clutch  at  a  cabbage  or  bunch  of  carrots,   and 
bring  them  from  their  repository.     The  apartments  on 
the  starboard  side  (the  right  side  looking  towards  the 
head  of  the  vessel)  have  brass-plates  on  the  doors,  with 
inscriptions  denoting  what  they  are.      The  first  in  the 
row  is  the  cabin  of  the  second  officer;  next  is  the  cabin 
of  the  third  officer;  next  is  the  workshop  of  the  baker; 
next  is  that  of  the  butcher  or  flesher;  next  is  the  house 
for  the  cow;  and  further  on  are  sundry  smaUer  offices. 
The  apartments  on  the  left  side  of  the  deck  (larboard) 
are— first,  the  cabin  of  the  surgeon;  next,  that  of  the 
piu-ser;  and  farther  on  are  various  places  for  culinary 
operations,  stores,  and  so  forth.     Along  the  centre  of 
the  deck,  beginning  at  the  stem,  are,  first,  the  wheel- 
house,  in  which  a  helmsman  is  seen  constantly  at  his 
post,  and  who  has  an  outlook  in  front  over  the  top  of 
the  saloon.    At  each  side  of  the  wheel-house  are  apart- 
ments for  the  captain  and  first  officer.     The  saloon 
comes  next.     It  is  a  large  sitting  and  dining  apartment 
for  the  first-class  passengers,  and  is  Ughted  by  a  row  of 
wmdows  on  each  side.     Separated  from  it  by  a  narrow 
cross-passage,   and   on  the   same   Hne  with  it,  is  the 
steward's  apartment,  smToundcd  by  shelves  of  china  and 
glass  articles,  and  having  in  its  centre  a  little  bureau 
whence  liquors  are  dispensed.     Over  the  door  of  this 
bureau  is  a  clock,  visible  from  the   saloon,  which  is 
altered    daily  in    correspondence  with    the    changing 
longitude.     Beyond  the  steward's  room,  towards  the 
middle  of  the  vessel,  is  a  kind  of  apartment  Qneji  p±  tl- 


II 


fi 


8 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


Sides,  and  in  which  stands  the  capstan.  At  its 
extremity  is  the  chimney  of  the  furnaces,  by  which 
means  the  enclosure  is  kept  tolerably  warm  even  in 
cold  weather.  Provided  with  seats,  it  forms  the  outdoor 
lounge  of  cigar-smokers,  and  those  who  do  not  know 
what  to  do  with  themselves.  Besides  being  dry  over- 
head,  the  capstan-gallery  is  kept  dry  to  the  feet  by 
means  of  open  wooden  work  laid  on  the  deck;  so  that 
when  the  sea  washes  over  the  vessel,  passengers  can 
remain  here  without  being  wetted. 

Beyond  the  capstan-gallery  is  the  kitchen;  adjoining 
18  the  open  deck,  with  the  ventilators  for  the  engin^ 
room.  Clearing  this  spot  towards  the  head  of  the  vessel 
we  have,  first,  tlie  mess-room  of  the  officers,  a  small 
apartment  erected  on  the  deck;  and  in  continuation, 
the    sitting    and    eating   saloon    for    the    fore-cabin 
passengers.     This  saloon  is  smaller  than  that  for  t^ 
first-class  passenger.  •  but  it  is  neatly  fitted  up  with 
Wc  oth  sofa  seats,  and  has   stewards  for  2  o^ 
special  attendance.    Beneath  it  are  the  sleeping-berths 
for    his  department;  and  from  all  I  could  see,  they 
equd  m  comfort  those  of  the  higher  class,  with  the- 
disadvantage,  however,  of  being  exposed  to  the  noises 
incidental  to  the  working  of  the  paddles  and  the  con 
cuBsions   of  the  waves  on  the  forepart  of  the  vessd 
AU  that  part  of  the   deck,   beyond   the  second  class 
saloon,  IS  the  proper  field  for  the  sailors 

So  much  for  what  stands  on  the  level  of  the  deck; 
and  with  so  many  .acumbrances,  the  space  left  for 
walking  amomits  only  to  a  stripe  at  each  side  of  the 
saloon  unless  we  choose  to  mount  to  the  poop,  which  is 
he  entn-e  roof  of  the  saloon,  steward's  apartLnt,  and 
capstan-gallery,  united  in  one  long  sweep  The  poTp 
e^closed  with  railings,  and  funiished  with  seats,  affords 
a  fine  airing-ground,  and  from  the  binnacle,  or  stand 
tor  the  compass,  to  the  great  red  tube  forming  the 


I.  At  its 
by  which 
tn  even  in 
Jie  outdoor 
not  know 
I  dry  over- 
le  feet  by 
k;  so  that 
sngers  can 

adjoining 
le  engine- 
the  vessel, 
i,  a  small 
tinuation, 
ore -cabin 
it  for  the 
up  with 
its   own 
Qg-berths 
see,  they 
with  the- 
be  noises 
the  con- 
le  vessel, 
ond^class 

lie  deck; 
left  for 
e  of  the 
which  is 
ent,  and 
lie  poop, 
,  affords 
3r  stand 
ing  the 


VOYAGE  FROM  LIVERPOOL  TO  HALIFAX.  0 

engine  chimney  at  the  further  extremity  of  the  poop, 
there  is  an  unimpeded  view  over  the  surrounding  ocean! 
The  indoor  space  is  necessarily  circumscribed.  Below 
the  saloon  are  the  sleeping-berths,  two  beds  in  each,  in 
long  rows;  a  certain  number  with  a  small  parlour  being 
set  aside  for  ladies.  The  descent  to  this  sleeping  region 
is  by  two  good  stairs.  The  fore-cabin  passengers,  in 
like  manner,  occupy  berths  below  their  saloon,  and  in 
this  respect,  at  least,  enjoy  accommodations  no  way 
inferior  to  those  of  first-class  passengers. 

The  conducting  of  this  magnificent  vessel  from  port 
to  port  across  the  ocean,  exhibits  a  remarkable  triumph 
of  human  skill.  A  body  of  officers,  dressed  in  a  uniform 
like  that  of  the  royal  navy,  is  charged  with  the  manage- 
ment of  the  ship.     The  chief  command  in  the  America, 
for  the  time    being,   was   in  the    hands   of  Captain 
N.  Shannon,*  a  Scotsman  of  experienced  seamanship, 
and  most  agreeable  and  obliging  in  his  intercourse  with 
the  passengers.     Under  him   are  three  officers.     The 
laborious  duties  of  the  ship  are  performed  by  a  boat- 
swain and  an  efficient  corps  of  mariners;  there  is  like- 
wise a  head-engineer  with  his   assistants,  having  the 
special   charge   of  the   machinery.      In  the   ordinary 
working  of  the  ship,  it  seems  to  be  a  rule,  that  two 
officers  shaU  always  be  on  the  alert— one  stationed  on 
the  gangway  at  the  side  of  the  paddle-boxes,  to  look 
sharply  ahead;  the  other  stationed  at  the  binnacle,  to 
communicate  orders  to  the  man  at  the  wheel.     When 
an  order  is  issued  by  the  captain,  or  first  officer  on 
duty.  It  is  repeated  aloud  by  the  second  officer;  and 
you  thus  hear  it  rapidly  echoed  from  point  to  point  till 
acted  upon  by  the  helmsman.     Orders  to  the  engineer 
to  slacken  speed,  to  stop,  or  go  on,  are  communicated 
by  pulling  the  wire  of  a  beU  at  the  paddle-box;  by 

•  Now  in  the  JEuropa,  to  and  from  New  York. 


10 


'^ 


I'll 


lii! 


■ 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


Which  simple  contrivance,  the  movements  nf  ih.    i, 
-e  under  the  most  perf;ct  cont;"    llts   ^^ 
m^ist  be  known  to  many  are  fc^,v  h^  ^         s^  as 

regulated  b,  striki.,  atrplt:S  trrth:?  Z 

m  the  line  of  cfcecSnome  sUp   tlfo  M  T"*"^" 
be  kept  unsteadilv  nn  it.      •      j   '        ""''^  *«  ^"^e' 

wm  ^  «rth  Tr^LTr/^r^"- 


VOYAGE  FROM  LIVERPOOL  TO  HALIFAX.  H 

compasses  are  doubtless  furnished  to  all  vessels  of  this 
important  class;   but  the  very  best  compass   may  be 
rendered  worse  than  useless,  by  a  disregard  of  the  petty 
circumstances  on  board  that  derange  its  action.  Captain 
Shannon  related  to  us  a  curious  instance  of  a  derange- 
ment in  the  compass,  which  had  since  rendered  him 
punctiHously  cautious.     He  had  left  Halifax  with  his 
vessel  on  the  homeward-bound  voyage ;  it  was  during 
one  of  the  cold  winter  months,  when  fogs  prevail  on  the 
American  coast.     His  directions  at  night  to  the  officers 
of  the  watch  were  to  nm  for  a  point  thirty  miles  east- 
ward of  Newfoundland,  so  as  to  make  sure  of  keeping 
clear  of  its  rock-bound  shores;  and  the  point  of  the 
compass  that  would  lead  in  this  required  direction  was 
fixed  upon.     On  coming  en  deck  in  the  gray  of  the 
morning,  what  was  his  horror  on  seeing  that  the  ship 
had  just  entered  a  smaU  bay,  and  seemed  about  to  be 
dashed  in  pieces  on  the  lofty  precipices  that  revealed 
themselves    through    the    mist!      Bv   instantaneoTisly 
shoutmg  orders  to  the  man  at  the  wheel,   and  by 
reversmg  the  engines,  he  barely  saved  the  vessel  from 
destruction.     After  some  trouble,  it  was  paddled  out  to 
deep  water.     His  first  impression  of  course  was,  that 
the  compass  had  been  neglected.  But  to  his  surprise,  he 
found  that  his  orders  in  this  respect  had  been  exactly 
foUowed.     The  head  of  the  vessel  had  been  kept  in 
the  direction  which,  by  compass,  should  have  led  to 
the  open  sea,  thirty  miles  from  land,  and  yet  here  was 
It  runmng  fuU  inshore.    To  all  concerned,  the  deviation 
seemed  perfectly  magical— not  on  any  ordinary  principle 
to  be  accounted  for.     The  truth  at  length  dawned  on 
the  captain.     The  error  must  have  arisen  from  some 
local  derangement  of  the  compass.      He  caused  aU  the 
compasses  in  the  ship  to  be  ranged  on  the  deck;  and 
soon  It  was  perceived  that  no  two  agreed.     The  seat  of 
the  disorder  was  ascertained  to  bp.  nf  a  nAvfa,-«  cr.^^-  ^i^.^ 

.«,    -^vvA  vt.viXA  iotjxjv    V^J.VJ3C 


13 


THINGS  AS  THEV  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


Lf.l  w.  "^  ""o  "°™  "^  *"  «=''~»-  Could  thi. 
fimnel  be  the  cause  ?  It  was  of  brass,  and  had  never 
before  she™  any  power  of  disiTaeting  the  needle.  On 
kokmg  mto  It,  however,  the  captain  discovered  that, 
when  at  Halifax  a  new  iron  tube  had  been  put  inside 

Lrh  T  "'^r  •""  ""°^'«"S«'  -1  «-  -cum. 
stance  had  never  been  mentioned  to  him  i      Tliere 

in  that   paltry   iron    tube,   was   the  whole    cause  of 
the  derangement,  'which   I  speedily,'  added  Captain 
Shannon,    made  to  shift  its  quarters.'     How  near  wis 
thus  a  fine  vessel  being  wrecked,  from  a  petty  circum- 
stance which  no  one  could  have  previously  dieamt  of- 

assumed  to   be  diverted  towards  rocks   by  currents 
m^  jiave  been  led  to  destniction  from  ea4s  cqu^y 

By  a  strict  regard  to  compasses  and  to  lights  and  bv 
carefu^^  pilotage  on  approaching  the  coast,^he'  Z^l 
to  well-bnilt  sea-going  steamei-s  ,s  exceedingly  smS 
Rocks  coUisions,  and  conflasrations,  are  the  thiLs"C 
need  alone  raise  a  feeling  of  apprehension.      On'bo^d 

sunset  on  the  fore-mast  and  on  each  paddle-box,  so  as 
to  warn  ships  that  a  steamer  is  .approaching,  wCby 
coUisions  may  be  avoided;  and  asr^ards  fee  e^treml 
care  seems  to  be  taken     All  *i,„  i  ,   ,       '  "'''"''"'e 

that  in  t1,»  .  V  ,  ^' *" ''>»Ps  Wow,  excepting 
that  m  the  captain's  apartment,  are  put  out  at  mid! 
"ght;  nor  is  any  one  aUowed  to  burn  lights  on  his 
own  account.  Tliere  is,  also,  in  connection  wi°h  the 
steam-engine,  a  set  of  force-pumps,  by  which  a  deCe 
of  water  could  be  immediately  piip'eUed  to  any  pTrt  of 
he  vessel.  To  avert  the  danger  and  deky  inciSt^ 
to  breakages  of  machinery,  duplicates  of  vL™  parti 

™ya!e     TT^^  'nterrupting  the  progress  of  the 
voyage.     Such  precautionary  arrangements  camiot  but 


VOYAGE  FROM  LIVERPOOL  TO  HALIFAX. 


18 


give  a  certain  degree  of  confidence  to  the  most  timid 
class  of  passengers. 

The  America,  as  I  said,  quitted  her  moorings  in  the 
Mersey  on  Saturday  at  noon ;  and  passing  north  about, 
it  was  not  until  about  seven  o'clock  on  Sunday  evening 
that  we  lost  sight  of  Ireland,  and  were  fairly  afloat  on 
the  Atlantic.     Without  any  land  in  view,  the  ship  now 
seemed  to  be  moving  in  the  centre  of  a  circular  piece  of 
water  terminating  in  the  sky.     And  on  and  on,  day 
after  day,  did  the  noble  vessel  go  ploughing  her  way 
across  this  shifting  liquid  disk.     Seldom  did  any  sail 
maks  its  appearance  on  the  track  we  were  pursuing. 
Our  ship  was  seemingly  alone  on  the  waste  of  waters — 
a  thing  enchanted  into  life  by  the  appliances  of  science 
and  art,  hastening  across  the  trackless  deep,  and  trans- 
feiTing  a  living  portion  of  Europe  to  America.      How 
suggestive,  to  sit  down  to  dinner,  amidst  the  splendours 
of  a  hotel,  and  to,  see  so  many  refined  people  about  you, 
yet  know  that  you  are  a  thousand  miles  from  land — a 
mere  speck  amidst  the  tumultuous  waves !     The  great- 
ness of  this  marvel  is  probably  lessened  to  most  minds 
by  the  pressure  of  common-place  circumstances.     The 
slightest  touch  of  sea-sickness  takes  away  the  poetry  of 
the  ocean ;  nor,  when  a  man  is  hungry,  does  he  indulge 
complacently  in  fanciful  speculations.     One  of  the  first 
things  which  passengers  do  on  coming  on  board,  is  to 
select  the  place  where  they  propose  to  sit  at  table;  which 
they  do  by  laying  down  their  card  at  the  spot.     In  this 
way,  a  party  of  persons  acquainted  with  each   other 
make  choice  of  a  locality ;  and  the  seat  each  selects  he 
keeps  during  the  voyage.     Let  us  pause  for  a  moment 
on  the  appearance  of  the  saloon,  in  its  varying  character 
of  sitting  and  eating  room. 

It  is  one  of  the  many  well-managed  matters  in  these 
vessels,  that  the  meals  are  served  peremptorily  to  a 

mimitfi.    aoonrdino-   to   th**    afriVinfr    o^  +^"   >>q1L 


viav      r-fViii3« 


u 


TBIN08  AS  THEY  ABE  IN  AMERICA. 


T^t\i  t  "PP°'"'«d  time;  «nd  I  verily  believe 
««t  rf  the  ship  were  sinking,  the  stewards  woVd  Z 
be  continuing  to  serve  the  dinner,  -p-e  stewards  r 
&ct,  twelve  in  number,  the  whole  under  aX  'and 
dressed  in  smart  blue  jackets,  are  but  a  variety  of  the 

3;  ^e"™?'  :^™"  '"^'  "»^  thing-whi^blt 
supply  the  wants  of  passengers.      At  eight  o'clock  in 

the  morning  they  ring  their  first  bcD,  which  ^th^ 
Bignal  for  nsing;  and  at  half-past  eight  hiring  L1 

rop'T'l:Li"?«r'  ^""  »'''*'  •>-•  -*- 

ar^irr  ''""'f ."'  «gg«.  tea,  coffee,  and  hot  rolls 
are  placed  in  profusion  on  the  two  upper  tables  ^e 
tables  m  the  saloon  are  eight  in  number-that  is  fou^ 
on  each  side,  with  sofa  seats  in  red  velvet  plush   Seldom 

Sa^rr'the^"  T-  "r^  ^'""^^  "<=  -™'^  f" 

oreauast,  for  the  meal  is  drawn  out  till  ten  o'clock 
and  for  two  hours  people  come  dropping  in  and  ^2; 
out  as  suits  their  fancv    At  ten  tv,„  t  m  ,  ^^^ 

after  tl,«  «„*v  1^  :  .  '  ™^  t^'es  are  cleared  : 
after  this,  nothing  hot  can  b ,  obtained ;  but  any  one  at 
any  time  can  have  such  other  fare  as  is  on  boid  At 
half-past  eleven,  the  tables  are  covered  to  a  I»™ 
^ent,  and  the  bell  at  twelve  o'clock^  th^^^^^ 
lunch  This  IS  a  weU-attended  meal,  and  toe  is 
UBuaJly  a  considerable  consumption  of  soup,  cold  beef 

SetTon  anr'""7^  ''''''   -ved\th    tS 
jackets  on,  and  a  great  favourite  with  the  more  mode 
rate  hands.     Again  the  tables  are  cleared  3 1  tlf 

Tovaffe  ™<,  ,  Z,J  A      f.     °^P="sengers  during  our 
TOya^e  v  as  a  hundred  and  sixty,  and  the  whole  of  these, 


VOYAGE  FROM  LIVERPOOL  TO  HALIFAX.  Jfl 

with  two  or  three  exceptions,  sat  down  to  dinner  daily. 
At  the  top  of  each  of  the  eight  tables  is  a  silver  tareeii 
of  soup,  and  the  signal  for  taking  off  the  Hds  is  the 
entrance  of  the  captain,  who  appears  in  the  saloon  only 
at  this  meal,  and  takes  his  seat  at  the  upper  end  of  the 
first  table  on  the  left-hand   side.     The  stewards   are 
drawn  up  in  lines,  and  confine  their  attendance  to  their 
respective  tables.      When  dishes  are   sent  in   to  the 
apartment,  they  are  handed  from  one  to  another  along 
the  lines,  and  in  the  same  noiseless  maimer  are  they 
handed  out— the  whole  thing  going  on  silently  like  an 
adroit  military  manoeuvre.     Every  day  fresh  bills  of 
fare  are  laid  on  the  tables  for  the  use  of  the  guests. 
Iced  water  is  served  in  abundance,  and  it  is  observable 
that  not  many  caU  for  wines.    Those  who  do,  give  their 
orders  on  cards  famished  for  the  purpose,  which  they 
settle  for  at  the  end  of  the  voyage.      For  general 
accommodation,  a  shelf  for  bottles  and  glasses  is  sus- 
pended from  the  ceHing  over  each  of  the  tables,  and 
large  tankards  of  iced  water  are  always  at  hand. 

The  elegance  and  proftision  of  the  dinners  is  sur- 
prising. They  consist  of  the  best  soups,  fish,  meat, 
fowls,  and  game,  with  side-dishes  in  the  French  style; 
foUowed  by  a  course  of  pastry  of  various  kinds,  with  a 
dessert  of  fresh  and  preserved  fruits.  How  so  many 
things  can  be  cooked,  how  there  can  be  so  much  pastry 
dressed  up  daily,  is  a  standing  wonder  to  everybody. 
And  the  wonder  is  greater  when  we  know  that  from 
the  same  apparatus  must  be  daily  produced  not  only  all 
this  profusion  for  the  saloon,  but  also  copious  dinners 
at  different  hours  for  the  fore-cabin  passengers,  the 
officers^  mess,  and  the  working  departments  of  the  ship. 
Dmner  in  the  saloon  is  drawn  out  to  upwards  of  an 
hour,  but  towards  its  conclusion  numbers  drop  off  to 
their  accustomed  lounge  in  the  capstan-gallery  or  on 
the  poop.     A  tew,  here  and  there,  linger  over  a  bottle 


16 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


of  wine ;  some  recline  on  the  sofaa ;  and  some  take  to 
reading.  There  is  now  a  cessation  in  eating  till  seven 
o'clock,  when  the  bell  is  sounded  the  last  time  for  the 
day,  and  tea  and  coffee  are  served.  For  these  beverages 
there  is  always  abundance  of  milk  -,  the  cow  on  board 
being  an  assui'ance  tliat  there  will  be  no  want  in  that 
particular.  As  regards  this  poor  animal,  which  was 
certainly  an  involuntary  passenger,  I  observed  that  she 
was  carefully  attended  to  in  the  way  of  food  and  clean- 
liness ;  nor  did  she  feel  the  want  of  company ;  for  most 
persons  talk  to  her  in  passing  her  little  house,  over  the 
half-door  of  which  she  keeps  her  head  poked  out  to  see 
what  is  going  on,  and  to  receive  the  caresses  of  the 
sailors.  In  rough  weather,  she  lies  down  in  a  comfort- 
able bed  of  straw,  and  is  untouched  by  the  spray  of  the 
sea;  yet,  she  is  sometimes  sick,  and  on  such  occasions, 
like  others  on  board,  probably  wishes  she  were  safe  on 
dry  land. 

It  will  appear,  from  this  brief  description,  that  eating 
goes  on  with  short  interruptions  from  morning  till  night. 
One  feels  as  if  living  in  a  table-d'hote  room,  with  the 
same  company  always  sitting  down  or  rising  up;  and 
I  should  think  that,  if  a  person  be  at  all  well,  he  can 
scarcely  fail  to  add  to  his  weight  during  the  voyage. 
At  first,  and  for  a  few  days  afterwards,  there  is  a 
general  shyness;  but  this  wears  gradually  off.  Persons 
sitting  near  to  or  opposite  each  other,  begin  to  become 
acquainted ;  cards  are  sometimes  mutually  exchan^' ,  i  : 
and  mere  chance  proximity  leads  to  a  lasting  and  Ys\f . 
intimacy.  At  tea,  some  do  not  take  their  accusioiueti 
places  at  table,  but,  for  the  sake  of  variety,  visit 
acquaintances  in  other  parts  of  the  room.  As  anything 
is  gladly  hailed  which  will  impart  a  degree  of  novelty 
to  the  scene,  the  passengers  were  one  evening  gratified 
to  learn  that  a  gentleman  proposed  to  give  a  lecture  on 
Spirit  Rapping.     All  being  assembled  in  their  places. 


V0YA0T5  PROM  LIVERPOr  L  TO  HALIFAX.  ,7 

the  lecturer,  who  was  an  American,  with  a  singularly 
thoiightful  ca^t  of  countenance,  stood  up  in  the  middle 
of  the  saloon,  and  commenced  his  harangue.    He  began 
by  narratmg  the  spiritual  agencies  mentioned  in  the 
Scnptures;  was  strong  on  the  case  of  Saul  and  the 
Witch  of  Lndor;  came  to  recent  manifestations;  and 
ended  with  the  clenching  argument,  '  that  he  had  seen 
a  table  rise  into  the  air  and  go  round  the  room;  and 
that  il  that  was  not  effected  by  spirits,  he  asked  any  one 
to  say  how  it  had  been  done  !^    He  was  listened  to  with 
respect   but  failed,  I  believe,  to  make  any  converts  to 
his  real  or  affected  belief. 

Devoured  by  idleness,  passengers  sometimes  practise 
betting  to  a  ridiculous  and  mischievous  extent.     They 
wiU  bet  on  anything— whether  a  sail  will  be  seen  to- 
morrow; what  day  and  hour  the  ship  w  11  reach  port- 
or  more  commonly,  what  number  of  mHc!.  will  be  ruii 
in  the  current  four-and-twenty  hours.     Betting  on  this 
latter  point  admits  of  speedy  and  accurate  settlement  • 
tor  every  day,  at  noon,  there  is  stuck  up  on  the  door  of 
the  saloon  a  memorandum  of  the  ship^s  run,  calculated 
Irom  the  log;  and  numbers,  watching  for  the  exhibition 
ot  this  piece  of  intelligence,  enter  it  gi-avely  in  their 
notebooks,  and  go  about  telling  everybody  how  many 
miles  have  been  made  in  the  ship's  coui'se. 

In  tolerable  states  cf  the  weather,  the  greater  nrmber 
of  passengers  take  walking  exercise  on  the  poop,  wliich 
IS  the  great  airing-groimd.  The  younger  men  amuse 
1  lemselves  m  a  different  manner,  with  games  of  shovel- 
board,  on  the  stripes  of  deck  outside  the  saloon.  Here 
with  thm  circular  pieces  of  hardwood,  they  play  at  a 
game  which  resembles  that  of  bowls,  only  that  the  pieces 
thrown  are  made  to  slide  along  instead  of  being  roUed 
On  fine  forenoons,  the  ladies  are  spectators  of  these 
games,  or  indulge  in  walking  exercise,  if  able  to  bear 
the  unsteady  motion  of  T 


ship.     In  the  sal 


B 


18 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


is  done  to  kill  time  by  card-playing,  chess,  and  back- 
gammon. Some  keep  playing  on  for  hours,  morning 
and  evening.  They  have  crossed  the  Atlantic  a  dozen 
times,  and  to  them  the  whole  affair  is  hackneyed  and 
tame.  Their  only  solace  is  whist,  and  accordinglj'^  no 
sooner  is  the  breakfast  off  the  table,  than  the  cards 
make  their  appearance.  At  night,  when  the  candles  are 
lighted,  these  whist-parties  increase  in  number,  and  to 
look  down  the  room,  you  would  imagine  yourself  at  a 
large  evening-paiiy  in  a  watering-place.  Occasionally, 
towards  ten  o'clock,  when  certain  youngsters  are  finish- 
ing the  day  with  deviled  legs  of  fowl  and  '  glasses  of 
something  warm  to  put  away  that  nasty  squeamishness,' 
you  may  hear  a  song  break  forth,  and  there  is  for  a 
time  an  air  of  jovialty  among  the  various  scattered 
parties.  Yet^  on  no  occasion  does  one  ever  see  any 
approach  to  boisterousness ;  and  notwithstanding  the 
mixture  of  nations — ^English,  Scotch,  American,  Cana- 
dian, German,  and  Italian — there  prevails  from  first 
to  last  the  staid  demeanour  of  well-bred  and  select 
society. 

Our  voyage  was  rather  more  rough  than  usual.  Head- 
winds from  the  west  tumbled  the  sea  about,  and  retarded 
the  progress  of  the  vessel.  At  starting,  the  ship  was 
able  to  make  upwards  of  200  miles  a  dayj  but  on 
Thursday,  the  run  sunk  to  101  miles  j  on  Friday,  it 
rose  a  little,  being  120;  and  on  Saturday,  it  was  166. 
During  these  tlu'ce  days,  the  beating  of  rain  and  wind, 
and  the  dashing  of  spray  from  the  paddles,  were  the 
least  of  the  discomforts.  As  the  vessel  ducked  down  in 
front  to  meet  the  billows,  she  constantly,  and  just  as  a 
spoon  would  lift  water,  shipped  a  sea,  which  came  rolling 
along  the  decks  ankle-deep,  and  finding  only  an  imperfect 
outlet  at  the  scuppers.  The  concussions  of  the  heavy 
surging  waves  on  the  bows  and  paddles  were  some- 
times awftil,  threatening,  as  they  appeared  to  do,  the 


VOYAGE  FROM  LIVERPOOL  TO  HALIFAX.  10 

destruction   of  everything  that   opposed  the  repeated 
shooks.  Yet  under  these  pitiless  blows,  the  vessel  scarcely 
quivered,  so  well  were  her  timbers  put  together;  and 
calmly  she  made  her  way,  though  at  moderated  speed 
through  the  raging  and  foaming  ocean.  Now  was  it  appa- 
rent that  mere  power  of  engine  is  of  little  avaH  during 
storms  in  the  Atlantic,  and,  indeed,  wiU  only  aggravate 
the  concussions,  unless  the  prow  of  the  vessel  be  of  that 
sharpened  and  vertical  form  that  wiU  enable  it  to  cleave 
Its  way,  and  at  the  same  time  sustain  a  level  course  in 
the  water.     A  vessel  of  this  improved  shape,  and  of 
increased  length,  is,  I  beUeve,  in  course  of  construction 
by  the  Cunard  Company,  and  it  will  be  interesting  to 
watch  tlie  result.      Meanwhile,  the  frequent  shipping 
of  seas  in  bad  weather  is  an  intolerable  nuisance.    As 
regards  myself,  the  deluging  of  the  decks  of  the  America 
poisoned  the  whole  comforts  of  the  voyage.     In  going 
from  my  berth  in  the  morning,  and  returning  to  it  in 
the  evening,  I  had  to  walk  amidst  sea-water;  and  one 
night,  by  the  plunging  of  the  ship,  I  was  thrown  down, 
and  brmsed  and  drenched  to  a  serious  extent.     For  this 
there  was  no  redress.     Some  other  gentlemen  among 
the  first-class  passengers  had  to  undergo  the  Hke  torment 
of  occupying  berths  in  the  forepart  of  the  ship.     We 
were  in  the  predicament  of  persons  who,  every  night 
after  supper,  and  in  darkness,  amidst  a  storm  of  wind 
and  rain,  had  to  go  out  or  doors  in  quest  of  a  lodging 
May  our  sufferings  be  a  warning  not  to  pay  for  a  passage 
m  these  vessels  without  first  seeing  a  printed  plan,  and 
being  assured  that  the  berth  required  is  actually  under 
or  ni  connection  with  the  saloon. 

While  the  head- winds  lasted,  and  kept  the  decks  in 
disorder,  the  smoking  and  talking  assemblages  in  the 
capstan-gaUeiy  were  kept  up  mth  redoubled  energy. 
CoUected  m  this  sheltered  spot,  and  gi-ouped  on  camp- 
s.ooxs,  tnc  English  and  Americans  carried  on  earnest 


so 


THINGS  AS  THEY  AKE  IN  AMERICA. 


discussions  on  matters  of  social  polity :  an  American- 
ised Irish  gentleman  from  Ohio  told  stories  of  the  early 
settlements ;  a  Californian,  in  a  shaggy  pea-jacket,  and 
with  breastpins  made  of  gi-eat  nuggets  of  gold,  lated 
tales  of  Lynch-law  and  Colt's  revolvers;  and  fi'om  a 
grizzly-haired  little  man,  who  spoke  emphatically 
through  his  teeth,  the  captain  of  a  South-sea  whaler, 
we  had  daily  narratives  t?  ship^^Teck,  which  would 
have  gone  far  to  fill  a  volume.  It  was  remarkable,  that 
during  even  the  worst  weather,  and  when  the  motion 
of  the  vessel  was  considerable,  there  was  little  sickness 
among  the  passengers.  Altogether,  I  experienced  no 
feeling  of  this  kind  except  for  an  hour  on  the  second 
day.  The  length  and  solidity  of  the  vessel,  with  its 
power  of  overcoming  the  short  broken  waves,  give  an 
easiness  that  is  wanting  in  the  small  class  of  steamers ; 
so  that  a  voyage  to  America  may  really  be  attended  with 
less  painful  consequences  than  an  ordinary  trip  from 
Dover  to  Calais.  While  tlie  bad  weather  lasted,  only 
two  of  the  passengers  ventured  on  the  poop.  One  of 
them  was  a  grave  gentleman,  clothed  from  top  to  toe 
in  India-rubber,  who  defied  the  rain  and  \nnd,  and 
became  a  subject  of  jocidarity  to  the  young  men  on 
board.  The  other  was  a  handsome  young  Swiss,  who 
had  never  been  to  sea  before,  and  was  always  in  a 
state  of  extreme  alarm  lest  the  vessel  should  sink.  In 
the  midst  of  dinner,  if  there  was  a  particiilarly  loud 
concussion  against  the  paddles,  out  the  poor  Swiss 
would  bolt,  and  hurry  to  the  furthest  corner  of  the 
wheel-house,  as  if  resolved  to  be  among  the  last  to 
perish.  A  hun-icane  of  laughter  from  the  young  Nova 
Scotians  followed  these  demonstrations,  which  were 
among  the  standard  subjects  of  meniment. 

On  tlie  eighth  day  out,  the  weather  mended  very 
considerably,  and  at  noon  our  run  by  log  was  231 
miles.     Being    Sunday,    preparations    were    made  for 


VOYAGE  FROM  LIVERPOOL  TO  HALIFAX.  gl 

performing  divine  sendee.     At  one  o'clock,  the  principal 
steward  entered  the  saloon  Avith  a  trayftil  of  Bibles 
and  prayer-books,  which  he  distributed  among  the  pas- 
sengers.     He  then  adjusted  a  red-plush  sofa-cushion  on 
the  inner  side  of  one  of  the  tables,  by  way  of  pulpit; 
and  after  these  simple  arrangements,  the  bell  on  the 
forecastle  began  deliberately  to  toU.     Several  passengers 
ti'om  the  fore-cabin  now  entered  along  with  the  officers 
m  umform,  and  about  a  dozen  sailors  in  their  Sunday 
jackets.     In  the  whole  scene  there  was  an  air  of  con- 
siderable solemnity.     The  bell  ceased  to  ring,  and  a 
perfect  silence  prevailed.     The  officiating  minister  now 
took  his  seat  at  the  cushion,  on  which  lay  a  large  Bible 
and  service-book.     When  no  clergyman  is  on  board, 
the  service  for  the  day  is  read  by  the  captain.     In  the 
present  instance,  a  clergyman  belonging  to  the  college 
of  Toronto  was  a  passenger,  and  by  him  the  service  was 
conducted  according  to  the  usual  forms;  including  the 
preaching  of  a  sermon,  which  was  listened  to  with  as 
great  attention  as  if  delivered  in  a  parish  church.     The 
rest  of  the  day  was  spent  with  the  ordinary  decorum  of 
feunday  m  England. 

On  the  following  Tuesday,  being  the  tenth  day  out 
sailing  vessels  began  to  be  seen  on  the  horizon,  being 
probably  barks  engaged  in  the  fishing  on  the  banks  of 
Newfoundland,  which  we  were  now  declared  to  be  upon. 
We  also  enjoyed  an  agreeable  clearing  up  in  the  sky 
and  the  colour  of  the  sea  changed  from  blue  to  a  lUi 
greemsh  tinge.     From  this  time,  too,  more  gulls  were 
Been  on  the  wing,  and  the  ship  had  become  a  refuge 
for  a  flight  of  small  birds  resembhng  larks,  which  had 
been  driven  from  land  by  stress  of  weather,  and  were 
glad  to  rest  their  wearied  wings  by  perching  on  the 
more  prominent  parts  of  the  vessel.     This  day,  about 
noon,  a  large  steamer  from  New  York  to  Liverpool 
came  in  sight,  and  was  watched  with  deep  interest  by 


22 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


the  passengers.  It  passed  at  the  distance  of  two  miles. 
There  were,  as  usual,  mutual  greetings  by  signal.  The 
system  of  communication  at  sea,  by  signals,  is  one  of 
the  most  remarkable  inventions  of  the  day,  and  merits 
a  word  of  explanation, 

The  inventor,  or,  at  all  events,  perfecter,  of  the  code 
of  nav  al  signals,  was  the  late  Captain  Frederick  Marryat, 
of  the  royal  navy,  weU  known  as  a  popular  novelist. 
By  Marryat's  signals,  as  they  are  generallj'  termed,  a 
conversation  on  almost  any  subject  can  be  carried  on 
between  two  sliips,  as  effectually  as  if  the  respective 
captains  spoke  to  each  other  in  distinct  words.     The 
signals  employed  consist  of  fifteen  different  small  nar- 
row flags,  which  are  run  up  at  a  point  over  the  stem, 
and  fully  visible  through   a  glass   at    a    distance  of 
several  miles.     Ten  of  them  represent  the  ten  figures  in 
arithmetic,  and  by  these  any  number  is  expressed.     The 
other  five  refer  respectively  to  certain  departments  in 
the  code,  and  are  designed  to  lead  at  once  to  the  subject 
of  conversation.     When  a  particular  number  i  expressed, 
the  code,  which  is  a  volume  resembling  a  di  cionary,  is 
turned  up  by  the  party  addressed,  and  he  sees  a  sentence 
or  part  of  a  sentence  opposite  that  number  in  the  book. 
So  expert,  however,  do  mariners  become  in  reading  the 
signals,  that  they  seldom  require  to  refer  to  the  code.  On 
both  sides,  the  signals  are  run  up  and  pulled  down,  and 
questions  asked  and  answered  with  the  rapidity  of  ordi- 
nary conversation.     In  this  way,  vessels  passing  witliin 
sight  of  each  other  at  sea,  no  longer  need  to  bend  from 
theii'  course  or  stop  in  their  career  to  put  questions 
through  speaking-trumpets.      The  merchant  ships  of 
nearly   all  countries  have   embraced  Marryat's   code, 
which  is  now  therefore  the  universal  language  of  the  sea 
— a  symbol  of  brotherhood  among  nations. 

Thursday,  the  twelfth  day  out.     The  joyful  intelli- 
gence of  laud  being  in  sight,  was  reported  at  breakfast. 


VOYAGE  FROM  LIVERPOOL  TO  HALIFAX. 


28 


Through   the  misty  distance,   nigged  headlands    and 
brown  rocky  hills  were  visible  on  the  west.     We  were 
now  going  southward,  down  the  American  coast,  which 
was   kept    in  view    all    day.     The  prospect  was  not 
cheering,   for  the  land  facing  the    ocean    about   the 
Gulf  of  St  Lawrence  has  a  generally  bare  and  deserted 
appeai'ance.     Why  steamers  from  England  to  America 
should  for  the  most  part  hold  so  northerly  a  course 
before  running  south,  is  not  clear  to  the  understanding 
of  landsmen.     The  practice  may  be  connected  with  the 
principle   of  great-circle  sailing,   or  that  of  crossing 
where  the  degrees  of  longitude  are  comparatively  nar- 
row.    On  this  point,  there  were  learned  but  not  par- 
ticularly lucid  discussions  in  the  capstan-gallery;    and 
here  also,  by  the  older  sea  hands,  were  given  accounts 
of  the  Gulf-stream,  and  its  wonderful  effects  in  temper- 
ing the  climate  of  the  British  Islands.    These  and  other 
themes  of  the   capstan  parliament,  as  we  named  it, 
came  abruptly  to  a  close  in  the  evening,  when  the 
lights  at  the  mouth  of  Halifax  harbour  shone  in  sight. 
Swiftly  the  entrance  is  made;    the  lights  of  the  town 
make  their  appearance ;  mails  and  baggage  are  brouglit 
on  deck;  gims  are  fired  and  rockets  sent  up;  lanterns 
flit  about  the  wooden  quay  where  we  ai'e  to  land ;  ropes 
are  thrown  out;   a  gangv>ray  is  pushed  on  board;  and, 
along  with  some  half-dozen  fellow-passengers  who  go 
no  further,  I  scramble  ashore,  and  have  my  foot  on 
American  soil. 

The  voyage,  so  far,  had  occupied  nearly  twelve  and 
a  half  days ;  which,  with  a  delay  of  several  hom-s  for 
coaling  and  the  subsequent  run  to  Boston,  would,  to 
the  bulk  of  the  passengers,  make  a  voyage  of  foiui;een 
days. 


CHAPTER    II. 


NOVA   SCOTIA. 


Stepping  ashore  at  Halifax,  I  found  myself  among 
friends,  acquaintances,  and  a  people  generally  who  may 
be  said  to  have  vied  with  each  other  in  welcoming 
me  to  the  new  rzorld,  whether  British  or  American. 
Everything  was  new,  yet  familiar.  Thousands  of 
miles  from  home,  I  was  still,  as  it  were,  in  England, 
with  nothing  differing  around  me  in  language  or  in 
usages  from  what  I  had  been  previously  accustomed  to. 
But  without  any  generic  difference  there  was  novelty. 
Driving  at  night  through  imperfectly  lighted  streets, 
I  could  see  that  the  houses  were  principally  of  wood, 
and  Woodenness,  as  I  may  call  it,  is  one  of  the  dis- 
tinctive features  of  America — wooden  houses,  wooden 
door -steps,  wooden  slates,  wooden  pillars,  wooden 
palings,  wooden  wharfs,  and  here  and  there  wooden 
roads  and  wooden  pavements ! 

Yet,  though  wooden,  how  neat,  how  beautiful !  On 
looking  out  in  the  morning  from  my  window  over  the 
town  and  scenery  beyond,  I  thought  I  never  had  seen 
anything  so  pretty.  No  dingy  brick  with  a  canopy  of 
smoke,  as  in  London ;  no  dull  gray  walls  incrusted  with 
the  soot  of  centuries,  as  in  the  older  parts  of  Edinburgh; 
but  all  smart,  fresh,  new,  and  seen  through  an  atmo- 
sphere as  clear  as  crystal.  A  town  composed  for  the 
most  part  of  detached  houses,  and  painted  a  clear 
white,  was  seen  stretching  with  a  sunny  exposure  down 


NOVA  SCOTIA. 


95 


the  declivities  of  a  hill  to  a  sea- water  lake  dotted  with 
islands ;  while  on  the  further  side  of  the  lake,  which 
was  apparently  about  two  miles  wide,  there  lay  a 
picturesque  range  of  country,  ornamented  with  white 
cottages,  and  on  the  brink  of  the  water  the  small  town 
of  Dartmouth  imbosomed  among  trees.  Then  the  lake 
itself— quite  a  Highland  firth,  reminding  one  of  Loch 
Fyne— lay  glittering  in  the  morning  sun,  and  boats  with 
flowing  sails  were  tacking  in  different  directions  on  its 
bosom.  All  was  charming ;  nor  did  a  nearer  inspection 
alter  the  original  impressions  of  the  scene.  Halifax, 
with  wide  streets  laid  out  in  lines  at  right  angles  with 
each  other,  an  abundant  intermixture  of  trees  and 
gardens,  and  a  population  of  forty  to  fifty  thousand 
souls,  is  as  pleasing  in  its  outlines  when  seen  from  the 
harbour  as  from  the  higher  groimds.  With  a  fair  pro- 
portion of  church  spires,  public  edifices,  and  a  fort  with 
flag-staff  crowning  the  hill  on  which  it  stands,  and 
with  a  long  series  of  wharfs  lined  with  sliipping,  it  is 
a  complete  and  respectable -looking  city,  and  may 
challenge  comparison  with  any  town  of  similar  size  in 
America. 

If  an  Englishman  can  entertain  little  respect  for  a 
city  whose  very  churches— one  of  them  a  handsome 
Gothic  edifice— itre  built  of  wood,  he  must  confess 
unbounded  admiration  of  the  natural  beauties  of  its 
situation.  One  of  the  finest  inlets  on  the  American 
coast  ia  the  harbour  of  Halifax.  Running  up  seven  or 
eight  miles  from  the  open  sea,  it  abruptly  narrows  a 
short  way  above  the  town,  and  then  expanding,  becomes 
a  spacious  land  -  locked  sheet  of  water,  probably  six 
miles  long  by  from  two  to  three  broad.  This  inner 
lake,  with  deep  water  and  good  anchorage,  is  sur- 
rounded by  ranges  of  high  ground,  picturesque  cliflfe, 
and  overhanging  woods  of  brilliant  foliage.  Along  the 
"" '^^^^)  ^^^i"  ^tnOitttiiig   ruuivy  Kuoiis,  mere  is  a 


86 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


mM 

:lil 


fine  drive  whicli  nearly  skirts  the  water;  and  it  is 
here,  on  an  eminence  a  few  miles  from  the  town,  that 
the  late  Duke  of  Kent  built  and  inhabited  a  neat  villa, 
the  site  of  which  is  still  visible  among  the  trees.  No 
one  can  see  this  remarkably  beautiful  sheet  of  water, 
without  reflecting  that  it  oflFers  a  harbourage  of  almost 
unexampled  excellence,  and  will  possibly,  at  some  future 
day,  grace  the  site  of  a  great  emporium  of  commerce. 

Travellers,  who  have  but  a  few  houi's  to  spare, 
should  not  omit  a  drive  along  the  borders  of  this  inner 
lake ;  and  when  about  half-way  up,  by  taking  a  cross- 
road to  the  left,  they  will  soon  be  brought  to  a  smaller 
but  equally  beautiful  arm  of  the  sea,  bounding  the  penin- 
sula on  which  stands  the  city  of  Halifax,  with  its  spread- 
ing suburbs,  open  common,  gardens,  and  small  farms. 
A  drive  of  this  limited  extent  is  in  some  cases  all 
that  travellers  indulge  in  who  visit  and  describe  Nova 
Scotia.  In  the  course  of  such  a  ramble,  and  pushing 
here  and  there  into  scenes  beyond,  as  I  did  on  two  or 
three  occasions,  numberless  picturesque  views  are  pre- 
sented ;  affording,  too,  such  developments  of  the  most 
ancient  series  of  rocks  as  may  well  delight  the  geolo- 
gist. Forests  of  shrubs  and  tangled  woods,  amidst 
which  you  hear  the  tinkle  of  bells  hung  round  the 
necks  of  the  cottagers'  vagrant  cows,  derive  support 
from  a  thin  soil,  reposing  on  vase  masses  of  granite, 
while  boulders  of  the  same  imperishable  material  are 
scattered  about  in  endless  profusion.  Some  of  these 
detached  blocks  are  so  rounded  by  attrition  as  to  remain 
poised  on  a  very  narrow  basis ;  so  that,  without  calling 
in  the  agency  of  the  Druids,  you  have  rocking-stones 
fit  to  be  the  playthings  of  a  race  of  giants. 

Travelling  through  these  woody  and  rocky  solitudes, 
and  now  and  then  coming  to  a  clearing  of  a  few  open 
fields,  the  property  of  an  industrious  settler,  you  are 
occasionally  startled  with  the  aD^arition  of  an  Indian 


NOVA  SCOTIA. 


27 


^Toman  and  children  loitering  around  a  wigwam  of  the 
most  slender  materials.  The  sight  of  these  members  of 
the  decayed  tribe  of  Mic-macs  was  to  me  afflicting  to 
the  last  degree.  It  was  the  spectacle  of  human  nature 
reduced  to  the  level  of  the  brutes  j  and  that  such  things 
existed  within  an  hour's  ride  of  a  populous  and  refined 
city,  seemed  to  me  exceedingly  anomalous.  The  de- 
graded condition  of  the  Indian  raced,  however,  is  more 
easily  lamented  than  cured.  Much  has  been  done  to 
Christianise  and  to  improve  the  habits  of  the  Mic-macs, 
and  a  spirited  society  in  Halifax  is  now  engaged  in  this 
work  of  spiritual  and  temporal  reclamation,  which  we 
must  hope  will  not  prove  altogether  finiitless.  At  no 
great  distance  from  the  frail  huts  of  these  poor  Indians, 
it  was  my  fortune  to  alight  upon  a  number  of  little 
cottages,  each  with  a  small  clearing  about  it,  and  to 
appearance  the  abode  of  an  order  of  beings  superior  to 
the  native  races ;  for  between  a  habitation  which  con- 
sists of  a  few  sticks  hung  over  with  dirty  blankets  and 
skins,  and  a  dwelling  built  of  wood,  with  a  door,  win- 
dows, and  cliimney,  there  is  a  great  stride.  I  had  the 
curiosity  to  look  at  the  interior  of  these  dwellings,  and 
found  them  to  be  occupied  by  negroes — free,  of  course, 
but  not  seemingly  much  the  better  for  being  at  their  own 
disposal.  I  was  informed  that  a  large  number  of  these 
blacks  had  been  carried  away,  by  one  of  our  admirals, 
from  the  States,  during  the  war  of  1813,  and  landed 
at  Halifax,  where,  along  with  other  coloured  refugees, 
they  were  little  better  than  a  nuisance.  Some  of  the 
blacks  live  in  Hahfax,  and  others  in  the  small  cabins  I 
liave  spoken  of  as  occurring  amidst  the  iniral  scenery 
of  the  neighbourhood.  They  are  not  all  idlers.  I  saw 
several  employed  in  various  ways;  but,  as  a  class, 
they  are  not  well  spoken  of.  In  the  long  winters  they 
require  to  be  supported  by  charitable  contributions — 
this  m  a  country  where  uruy  man  able  and  willing   to 


S8 


THINOS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


work,  can  never  be  at  a  loss  for  permanent  employment 
at  a  wage  beyond  that  of  the  English  labourer  ! 

During  my  stay  in  Halifax,  I  had  an  opportunity 
of  attending  an  agricultural  fete,  which  took  place 
through  the  liberal  and  considerate  policy  of  the  lieu- 
tenant-governor of  the  province.  First  in  the  series 
of  proceedings,  there  was  a  ploughing -match,  in  a 
grassy  field  outside  the  town,  where,  with  the  best  kind 
of  ploughs,  each  drawn  by  a  pair  of  horses,  there  was 
a  highly  creditable  display  of  provincial  taste  in  hus- 
bandry. Wandering  about  the  field,  enjoying  the 
sight  of  the  eager  competitors,  and  also  the  graceful 
spectacle  of  ladies  on  horseback  and  in  carriages,  and 
the  ^lite  of  the  provincial  government  surveying  the 
proceedings,  I  derived  an  additional  gratification  in 
knowing  that  the  spot  was  in  some  sort  classic  ground. 
It  formed  part  of  the  experimental  farm  of  the  late 
John  Young,  an  enthusiastic  Scotch  agricultmist, 
who,  writing  in  the  local  press  under  the  name  of 
Agricola,  was  the  first  to  stimulate  a  spiiit  of  improve- 
ment in  the  province,  and  lived  to  see  the  principles 
and  practice  of  East  Lothian  hLsbandry  naturalised  in 
this  part  of  America.  Men  not  very  aged  remember 
the  time  when  the  only  vegetables  consumed  in  Halifax 
were  imported  from  Boston,  and  when  butter,  pork, 
and  other  edibles  came  from  Ireland.  All  this  has 
been  changed,  and  not  a  little  of  the  progress  in  various 
branches  of  cultm'e  is  due  to  John  Young,  whose  son, 
the  Hon.  William  Young,  Speaker  of  the  House  of 
Assembly,  very  appropriately  opened  the  proceedings  on 
the  present  occasion.  On  the  day  after  the  ploughing- 
match,  there  was  an  exhibition  of  horses,  cattle,  and 
other  animals,  also  of  implements  of  agriculture,  and 
some  fruits.  I  do  not  profess  to  be  a  judge  of  such 
things,  but  there  could  be  no  doubt  that  the  show 
evinced  a  high  degree  of   skill   in  the   selection   and 


m 


NOVA  SCOTIA. 


29 


rearing  of  livestock,  and  in  conducting  the  business  of 
the  farm.  The  exhibition,  in  various  ways,  aflPorded  a 
pleasing  indication  of  the  interest  now  taken  in  rural 
improvement.  It  was  attended  by  people  from  all  parts 
of  the  province,  and  while  it  lasted  th*?  toAvn  had 
altogether  a  holiday  aspect.  As  a  public  dinner  and 
ball  formed  part  of  the  programme,  possibly  it  was  not 
cattle  alone  that  brought  so  many  strapping  young 
farmers  from  their  distant  fields.  Indeed,  it  would  be 
a  wonder  if  it  were  so,  for  the  ball  offered  to  the  eye  a 
wonderful  constellation  of  'youth,  beauty,  and  fashion;' 
and  if  any  one  has  taken  up  the  fancy  that  Nova 
Scotian  Ladies  are  destitute  of  the  charms  of  English- 
women, I  only  pity  his  ignorance,  and  would  ask  him  to 
look  in  at  a  Halifax  ball. 

At  these  entertainments,  I  was  introduced  to  a 
number  of  persons  of  respectability  and  influence. 
Speaking  of  Halifax,  they  said  it  had  many  recom- 
mendations as  a  place  of  residence,  and  as  was  evi- 
denced by  the  number  of  persons  who  had  realised 
large  fortunes,  it  offered  good  prospects  for  really 
industrious  and  enterprising  men.  The  only  complaint 
against  it,  was  a  general  want  of  that  spirit  of  commer- 
cial adventure,  so  strongly  evidenced  in  the  States, 
where  realised  capital  knows  no  rest,  but,  greatly  to 
the  public  advantage,  is  continually  pushing  into  new 
channels.  By  way  of  keeping  up  the  conversation, 
I  said  I  could  not  help  remarking,  though  scarcely 
entitled  to  allude  to  the  circumstance,  that  there 
appeared  to  prevail  a  much  more  gay  and  free-and- 
easy  style  of  life  among  persons  in  business,  than  I 
had  been  accustomed  to  witness  in  the  old  country ; 
instancing  the  number  of  young  men  who  kept  horses, 
and  lived  as  if  independent  of  any  inducement  to  assi- 
duous labour.  The  truth  of  this  was  admitted;  the 
explanation   being,    that    the   Nova   Scotians,   besides 


80 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


knomng  scarcely  anything  of  taxes,  had  all  the  luxuries 
of  life  at  a  comparatively  small  cost,  and  were  enabled 
to  got  through  existence  in  a  far  more  enjoyable 
manner  than  was  known  '  at  home/  The  long  winters, 
in  which  much  of  the  ordinary  business  is  suspended, 
and  sleighing  and  parties  of  amusement  are  the  order 
of  tLe  day,  were  also  spoken  of  as  productive  of  those 
gay  and  somewhat  unsettled  habits  I  had  alluded  to. 
As  a  natural  consequence,  emigrants  from  the  old 
country,  trained  to  mind  their  affairs,  and  whose 
whole  aim  is  to  succeed,  were  described  as  finding 
little  difficulty  in  improving  their  circumstances  in  the 
colony. 

One  of  the  days  diuing  my  stay  was  devoted  to  a 
glance  at  the  educational  institutions  of  the  town,  which 
I  examined  dispassionately,  without  regard  to  sect  or 
party.  At  a  large  school  for  poor  children,  supported 
by  the  subscriptions  of  the  benevolent,  I  was  over- 
whelmed by  a  complimentary  and  undeserved  address 
from  the  body  of  managers.  In  a  Roman  Catholic 
orphan  seminary,  which  appeared  to  me  a  very  model 
of  order  and  cleanliness,  and  in  the  National  School, 
the  general  routine  of  procedure  seemed  to  me  highly 
satisfactory.  Latterly,  a  system  of  common-schools  has 
been  organised  in  the  province,  and  is  supported  by  the 
state  and  local  rates.  But  the  very  fact  that  it  leaves 
a  number  of  children  in  Halifax  to  be  educated  by 
begged  money — that  is,  by  chance — is  indicative  of  its 
defects  as  a  system  of  universal  application. 

Among  the  public  buildings  to  which  my  attention 
was  di'awn,  was  the  handsome  edifice  used  for  the 
meetings  of  the  Provincial  Assembly,  and  for  conduct- 
ing the  colonial  government,  and  likewise  the  mansion 
occupied  by  the  Heutenant-govemor ;  this  last  being 
pleasantly  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  garden  near  the 
environs  of  the  city.      In  the  main  streets  there  are 


NOVA  SCOTIA. 


81 


numerous  stores  on  a  large  and  elegant  scale ;  but  the 
establishments  most  interesting  to  a  stranger,  are 
certain  commercial  dep6ts  situated  on  the  wharfs  which 
project  into  the  harboui*.  Here  fishermen  are  supplied 
vnth  all  the  requisites  for  carrying  on  their  perilous 
profession,  and  here  arc  received  and  stored  up  the  fish 
that  are  caught.  The  quantity  of  dried  fish  piled  in 
these  establishments,  floor  above  floor,  is  enormous, 
though,  after  all,  only  a  fraction  of  what  is  drawn  from 
the  adjoining  coasts.  The  export  is  chiefly  to  the  West 
Indies. 

In  the  streets  of  Halifax  there  was  no  lack  of  scarlet 
uniforms,  and  this  leads  me  to  remark  that  the  military 
forms  no  inconsiderable,  and  I  should  think  no  very 
advantageous,  element  in  the  society  of  the  town.     The 
sight  of  English  soldiers  on  this  side  of  the  Atlantic  is 
not  very  intelligible  to  the  traveller  who  sees  neither 
disafiection  to  be  kept  down,   nor  a  foreign   enemy 
threatening;  nor,  when  he  reflects  on  the   enormous 
expense  at  which  the  apparatus  of  force  must  neces- 
sarily be  maintained,  does  this  military  system  seem 
consonant  with  justice  to  the  mother-country,  which 
enjoys  nothing  in  return  but   the  honour  of  calling 
Nova  Scotia  one  of  her  dependencies.     It  is  true  that 
Halifax,  with  its  fort,  forms  a  strong  military  position ; 
but  the  experience  of  the  past  tells  us  that  fortifications 
in  America  have  been  built  only  to  be  left  in  ruins,  or 
handed  over  to  the  very  power  which  they  were  intended 
to  repel.     Nothing  produces  such  melancholy  emotions 
in  the  Englishman  who  wanders  over  the  United  States, 
as  the  frequent  spectacle  of  large  military  works  which 
cost  his  coimtry  vast  sums  of  money,  and  are  now,  in 
their  state  of  ragged  decay,  only  objects  of  interest  to 
the  draughtsman  and  the  antiquary.    Admiring  the  fort 
at  Halifax  as  a  work  of  art — its  strong  walls  of  granite, 
its   fosses  and  casemates,  its  trim  grassy  mounds,  its 


■  itw'iflitwwwiwBiiiitwpiiiiii*^ 


32 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


barracks  and  water-tanks,  all  unexceptionable — I  must, 
nevertheless,  consider  its  erection  as  a  species  of  error, 
and  look  upon  the  cost  of  the  large  military  establish- 
ment with  which  it  is  garrisoned  as  completely  thrown 
away.  It  could  perhaps  be  shewn  that  the  expenditure 
is  even  injurious  to  the  place.  Relying,  in  one  wa^,  or 
another,  on  the  outlay  of  public  money,  the  people  fail 
to  exercise  that  energetic  industry  and  self-dependence 
which  would  natuiully  be  developed  were  they  entirely 
free  from  aU  state  patronage.  Hospitable  and  highly 
polished  in  manner,  the  general  society  of  Halifax  is, 
exteriorly,  everything  that  could  be  Avished;  but,  as 
might  be  supposed  in  the  circumstances,  there  prevails  a 
most  unhappy  spirit  of  party  politics,  which,  disuniting 
those  who  ought  to  be  friends,  substitutes  narrow  and 
personal  for  broad  views,  and  is  seriously  adverse  to  the 
prosperity  of  the  province. 

At  the  time  of  my  visit,  the  subject  uppermost  in 
every  man's  mind,  was  that  of  a  railway  to  extend  from 
Halifax  across  the  country  to  Amherst,  on  thn  borders 
of  the  province,  there  to  join,  on  the  one  hand,  with  a 
projected  line  to  St  John's,  in  New  Brunswick,  and  on 
the  other,  with  a  projected  line  to  Quebec.  There  can 
be  no  doubt  that  such  a  line  is  exceedingly  essential, 
even  on  a  limited  scale.  Yet,  in  the  face  of  an  obvious 
necessity,  the  greatest  disunion  prevailed.  All  wanted 
the  railway,  but  there  was  a  quarrel  about  details,  which 
was  as  ridiculous  as  if  the  commanders  of  an  army  were 
to  go  by  the  ears  about  some  trifling  matter  of  belts  and 
buckles,  while  they  ought  to  have  been  gallantly  leading 
their  men  into  action.  One  party  wished  the  railway  to 
be  purely  a  government  measure ;  another  desired  that 
it  should  be  a  joint-stock  speculation,  with  merely  some 
assistance  from  the  state.  To  render  the  confusion  still 
worse,  the  provincial  authorities  had  received  some  kind 
of  promise  from  the  English  capitalist,  Mr  Jackson,  to 


NOVA  SCOTIA. 


33 


1  ' 


the  effect,  tliat  he  wovld  make  the  required  line  on  some 
expressed  conditions  involving  a  pubHc  guarantee  The 
,)rovmcial  legislature  had  already  passed  acts  to  authorise 
certain  lines;  but  even  these  were  inoperative,  in  con- 
sequence  of  the  Home  Colonial  Office  having  for  several 
months  had  the  subject  in  consideration  before  append- 
ing the  consent  of  the  crovm.  One  had  only  to  see  and 
hear  of  aU  this,  and  observe  that  nothinff  was  done,  to 
feel  a  degree  of  pity  for  the  people,  who  were  the  victims 
of  such  strange  complications. 

As  the  nearest  available  harbour  to  England  on  the 
American  coast,  Halifax  seems  to  be  pointed  out  by 
nature  as  the  place  where  much  of  the  steam-navigation 
should  properly  concentrate.     It  should,  to  aU  appear- 
ance,  be  the  portal  for  traffic  between  Great  Britain  and 
her  Canadian  possessions;  and  if  these  possessions  are 
deemed  worthy  of  being  retained,  one  would  think  that 
a  means  of  getting  to  them  by  land,  without   going 
through  a  foreign   country,  would  be  very  desirable 
Already,  Nova  Scotia  sees  her  neighbour,  Portland,  in 
Mame,  become  that  medium  of  intercourse  which  she 
might  reasonably  have  expected  to  be.     Recently,  as 
may  not  perhaps  be  well  known  in  England,  a  raUway 
was  completed,  and  opened  from  Portland  to  the  St 
Lawrence,  by  which  you  may  travel  from  the  Atlantic 
to  Montreal,  a  distance  of  292  miles,  in  twelve  hours; 
and  in  the  course  of  a  few  months  a  branch,  now  nearly 
completed,  wiU  caiTy  you  in  the  same  space  of  time  to 
Quebec.     As  Portland  is  also  connected  with  Boston  by 
railway,  and  has  become  a  harbour  during  winter  for 
two  British  steamers,  it  may  be  assumed  that  she  has, 
without  more  ado,  become  the  port  for  a  large  section 
of  Canada.    As  Portland  will  further  be  soon  connected 
by  railway  ^ith  New  Bruns^vick,  she  may  be  said  to 
fly  off  at  a  sweep  with  various  important  branches  of 
colonial  trade. 


34 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


Iliiili 


One  thing  has  been  done  well  in  Halifax ;  and  that 
is,  the  establishment  by  a  company  of  an  electric-tele- 
graphic  communication   thi'ough  the  province  to   St 
John's,  New  Brunswick,  whence  the  wires  are  carried 
on  to  Portland  and  other  parts  in  the  States.     By  this 
line,  intelligence  arriving  by  the  Cunard  steamers  from 
England,  is  at  once  despatched  over  thousands  of  miles 
of  country.     The  news  brought  in  by  a  vessel  at  night 
is  found  next  morning  in  the  papers  of  New  Orleans, 
Cincinnati,  Toronto,  and  a  hundred  other  cities — the 
whole,  as  by   a  flash,   being  communicated  to   every 
newspaper  reader  in  the  United  States  and  Canada.  On 
visiting  the  telegraph-office  in  Halifax,  I  could  not  but 
admire  the  rapidity  mth  which  messages  are  sent  to 
and  from  St  John's — the  wires  of  communication,  b(  it 
remembered,  being  carried  on  the  tops  of  rude  poles, 
along  miserable  highways,   and  through    forests   and 
across  water-courses,  far  from  the  habitations  of  civilised 
man.     A  young  person  in  charge  of  the  telegi'aph  had 
become  so  marvellously  acute  in  the  ear,  that  he  could 
distinguish  the  various  intonations  made  by  the  ticking 
noise  of  the  mechanism;   and  without  waiting  to  see 
the  markmgs,  he  could  teU  you  everything  tliat  was 
indicated  at  the  other  end  of  the  wires.     Being  placed 
in  communication  with  a  gentleman  in  St  John's,  I 
requested  the  ingenious  operator  to  be  the  interpreter 
between  us.     He  did  so,  and  inclining  his  ear  to  the 

machine,  he  said :  '  Mr ■  welcomes  you  to  America, 

and  hopes  to  have  the  pleasure  of  seeing  you  before  you 
quit  the  country.'  The  success  which  has  attended  the 
enterprise  of  this  telegraphic  company,  might  surely 
have  pointed  out  a  method  for  practically  carrying  out 
the  railway  undertakings  of  the  province. 

It  would  be  too  much  to  expect  that  Nova  Scotia 
should  do  more  than  execute  her  own  proper  share  of 
any  great  scheme  of  intercolonial  railways;  but  even 


NOVA  SCOTIA. 


35 


80  far,  with  a  view  alone  to  internal  communication,  she 
has  an  important  duty  to  perform.  The  province  abounds 
m  mmeral  treasures,  that  need  only  to  be  developed. 
Perhaps  m  no  part  of  the  world  are  there   beds   of 
excellent  corl  of  such  vast  dimensions-one  of  them,  at 
Pictou,  I  was  told,  being  thirty  feet  in  thickness;  iron 
m  various  forms,  is  likewise  found  in  profusion ;  and  as 
for  gypsum,  it  is  inexhaustible.     The  fisheries  all  round 
the  coast,  mcluding  the  shores  of  Cape  Breton,  are  in 
themselves  mines  of  wealth,  as  yet  imperfectly  explored 
Ihe  country  abounds  in  lakes  and  rivers,  suitable  for 
water-power.     And  the  adaptation  of  certain  districts 
for  cattle-rearing  and  other  purposes,  is  by  no  means 
generally  understood. 

Nova  Scotians  complain  that  their  country  is  spoken 
of  as  being  all  rocky  and  barren.     This  has  arisen  from 
the   difficulty  of  travelling  beyond  the  exterior  and 
ungemal  border  of  high  grounds  near  the  sea-coast. 
l^etermmed,  if  possible,  to  overcome  the  obstacles  which 
usually  deter  tourists,  I  made  a  journey  of  several  days 
through  one  of  the  most  favoured  regions  of  the  interior 
My  object  was  to  cross   the   country  to  Annapolis, 
and  there  procure  a  steamer  to  St  John's.     For  this 
purpose  I  took  the  stage-coach,  in  the  first  place,  to 
VYmdsor,  that  being  a  good  point  of  observation  at  the 
distance  of  forty-five  miles  from  Halifax.     The  sta^e 
was  somewhat  of  an  oddity.     It  consisted  of  a  coal- 
body  slung  on  two  great  thick  belts  of  leather,  which 
went  beneatl^  it  from  stem  to  stem,  and  to  appearance 
It  had  not  been  cleaned  for  years.     Inside,  it  had  three 
cross  seats,  designed  to  accommodate  nine  persons   to 
whom  tarnished   leather    curtains   gave  an  imperfect 
protection  from  the  weather.     This  queer-looking  con- 
veyance  was  driven  by  a  stout  burly  man  in  a  shaggy 
di'ess,   who  walked  on  his  knees;  his  feet,  as  I  was 
mlormed,   'having  been  bitten   anH  Rlirivoiio^  „^  Uv 


86  THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 

frost/     Thus  equipped,  we  drove  off  in  tolerable  style, 
our  route  taking  us  along  the  inner  harbour,  and  thence 
up  the  valley  of  a  small  river  which  faUs  into  it  at  the 
farther  extremity.    The  day  was  not  warm,  but  it  was 
clear  and  pleasant,  and  was  said  to  mark  the  commence- 
ment of  the  Indian  summer.     The  trees,  robed  in  their 
autumnal  tints,  were  variegated  and  lovely.     The  green 
leaves  of  the  >dnes,  which  climbed  on  the  white  walls 
and  verandas  of  the  cottages,  were  already  edged  with 
red  •  the  dark  spruce  and  the  more  deHcate  toned  hgmm 
vitJi  were  set  off  by  the  yellow  of  the  American  elm; 
the  sumach,  now  leafless,  hung  out  its  ripened  purple 
blossoms  to  the  morning  sun;  and,  conspicuous  over 
aU,  shone  the  brilhant  crimson  of  the  maple.     Our  way 
was  through  natural  woods,  round  jutting  rocks,  and 
along  the  borders  of  pretty  little  brooks.     The  land 
never  rose  to  any  great  height,  but  it  was  seldom  level, 
and  whatever  was  the  character  of  the  sm-face,  the  road 
was  generally  so  bad,  that  travelling  had  in  it  a  cunous 
mixture  of  the  ludicrous  and  the  painful.     Now,  I  saw 
the  use  of  the  great  belts  on  which  the  coach  was  poised, 
for  on  them  it  pitched  and  roUed  without  serious  dislo- 
cation to  the  passengers,  and  without  damage  to  itself. 
OccasionaUy,  on  coming  to  gently  sloping  ground,  we 
saw  openings  in  the  woods,  with  a  few  fields  lately 
cleared  of  their  crop  of  Indian  corn,  but  stiU  dotted 
over  with  yellow  pumpkins  and  squashes  now  ready  for 
being  harvested.   These  gourd-like  vegetables,  scattered 
about   in  the   fields,   were   the  most  foreign -looking 
natural  objects  which  came  under  notice. 

Ir  the  course  of  my  journey,  I  saw  no  large  trees 
worth  speaking  of,  though  it  is  stated  that  good  timber 
is  abundant.  Wherever  the  country  was  uncleared,  it 
was  covered  with  a  thicket  of  wood,  so  dense  as  to  be 
scarcely  penetrable,  and  into  which,  without  a  compass 
-  -  .nwlpdtre.  it  is  extremelv  dangerous  to 


-Q-i 


NOVA  SCOTIA. 


37 


inlTude.  Much  of  the  wood  was  small,  and  only  fit  for 
rails  or  smnlaa-  inferior  purposes;  my  impression  being 
that  It  was  a  second  growth  filling  up  the  space  which 
had  been  cleared  by  fire  or  the  axe.  Now  and  then  a 
huge  white  pme,  scorched  and  leafless,  the  survivor  of  a 
long.past  conflagration,  shot  up  like  a  giant  among 
dwarfs,  or  lay  prostrate  and  rotting  amidst  the  under- 
wood.  Much  of  the  soil  of  America  may  be  said  to 
abound  with  the  germs  of  timber.  Unless  cleared  land 
be  kept  under  a  system  of  culture,  trees  spring  up;  so 
that  the  agriculturist  is  called  on  to  wage  continual  war 
against  a  volunteer  growth  of  shrubbery  as  well  as  of 
weeds. 

Half-way  to  Windsor,  the  coach  stopped,  professedly 
for  dirnier;  but  the  meal,  according  to  what  I  after- 
wards  found  customary  in  roadside  inns,  was  of  no  such 
distinct  character.  In  a  neat  upper  room,  with  a  blazing 
wood-fire  on  the  hearth,  a  table  was  spread  with  an 
entangled  compHcation  of  dinner  and  tea.     As  I  never 
could  acquire  the  habit  of  taking  tea  at  one  o'clock  as  a 
finish  to  a  sohd  meal,  I  decHned  the  offer  of  a  cup  •  but 
all  the  rest  of  the  company,  chiefly  farmers,  made  this 
their  only  beverage;  a  circumstance  which  shewed  the 
remarkable  extension  of  temperance  principles  in  the 
comitry.     N^t  a  drop  of  intoxicating  Hquor  was  con- 
sumed; and  I  may  add,  that  during  aU  this  journey  in 
^ova  Scotia,  I  saw  no  beverage  stronger  than  tea  or 
cottee.     I  cannot  say  I  admire  the  fashion  of  taking  tea 
to  dmner,  any  more  than  that  of  beginning  breakfast 
with  potatoes,  which  seemed  everywhere  common;  but 
anything  is  better  than  an  everlasting  appeal  to  the  gill- 
measure  or  pint-pot.    I  was  beginning  to  see  new  social 
developments-farmers  solacing   themselves  with  tea 
instead  of  whisky,  and  commercial  traveUers  who  can 
dme  without  consuming  half-a-crown's  worth  of  sherry. 


At  Windsor,  which  we  reached  nhQn+  fn 


88 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


the  country  assumed  an  old  and  settled  appearance. 
The  lands  were  cleared  for  miles,  and  laid  out  in  gocd- 
sized  farms  with  suites  of  handsome  buildings.  Here 
and  there  patches  of  timber,  for  ornament  and  use, 
enlivened  the  scene ;  and  orchards,  loaded  with  cherry- 
cheeked  apples,  seemed  to  form  an  appendage  to  every 
rural  establishment.  As  regards  these  orchards,  they 
possessed  an  interest  which  usually  attaches  to  antiquity. 
They  were  originally  planted  by  the  French,  the  first 
European  settlers  in  the  province,  and  who,  at  their 
expulsion  by  the  English,  were  forced  to  leave  behind 
them  the  apple-trees  which  reminded  them  of  their 
beloved  Normandy.  The  quantity  of  fruit  now  produced 
in  Nova  Scotia  from  this  source  is  immense. 

Windsor  is  a  pretty  little  town  of  white  wooden 
houses,  with  trees,  American  fashion,  growing  in  the 
main  street.  It  occupies  a  low  site  on  the  river  Avon, 
where  it  joins  a  navigable  estuary  in  the  Bay  of  Mines. 
Remaining  here  a  night  and  part  of  next  day,  I  had  an 
opportunity  of  visiting  several  places  in  the  neighbour- 
hood. Among  these  was  the  villa  of  Judge  Halliburton, 
which,  situated  on  a  lawn  among  trees,  with  a  pretty 
look-out  on  the  town  and  bay,  reminded  me  of  an 
English  country-seat,  I  was  sorry  to  find  that  the 
judge  was  from  home,  on  circuit.  Within  the  precincts 
of  his  grounds,  I  was  shewn  a  vast  quarry  of  gypsum, 
which  is  carted  oflf  by  a  tram-way  to  the  port,  for  ship- 
ment to  the  States.  At  the  distance  of  about  a  mile 
inland,  and  occupying  a  fine  exposure  on  the  face  of  a 
ridge  of  land,  stands  a  large  but  plain  building,  known 
as  the  College  of  Windsor.  The  institution  I  found  to 
be  in  a  state  of  extreme  decay,  the  number  of  students 
having  declined  to  fourteen.  Near  the  college  there  is 
a  preparatory  grammar-school,  in  better  circumstances. 

From  Windsor,  I  proceeded  with  a  friend  in  a  hired 
caleche,  along  the  west  side  of  the  estuary  of  the  Avon, 


NOVA  SCOTIA. 


80 


which  we  crossed  by  a  wooden  bridge  of  five  spans, 
covered  with  a  roof,  which  gave  it  the  appearance  of  a 
long  dark  gaUery.  On  the  west  side  of  the  Avon,  and 
towards  an  inlet  of  the  Bay  of  Mines,  the  country  con- 
tinued to  improve.  At  Lower  Horton  and  WolfvdUe, 
it  seemed  to  be  as  beautiful  and  prolific  as  a  garden. 
The  orchards  increased  in  number ;  huge  tall  willows, 
memorials  of  the  early  French  settlers,  and  neat  white 
cottages  dotted  the  sides  of  the  highway.  On  our  left, 
on  a  rising-ground,  we  passed  a  handsome  large  build- 
ing, a  college  of  the  Baptist  connection.  Arriving  at 
Kentville,  as  the  limit  of  our  day's  ride,  we  paused  for 
the  night,  and  spent  the  ensuing  day  in  visiting  the 
adjacent  township  of  Comwallis. 

Kentville  is  a  small  thriving  town,  with  some  smart 
villas,  and  the  drive  from  it  in  a  northerly  direction  to 
Comwallis,  over  some   irregular  woody  heights,  was 
highly  exhilarating.     Comwallis,  wliich  has  the  reputa- 
tion of  being  one  of  the  most  fertile  regions  in  Nova 
Scotia,  may  be  described  as  a  great  open  plain,  with 
shght  inclinations  to  small  water-courses,  and  bounded 
and  sheltered  on  the  north  by  the  long  range  of  a  well- 
timbered  mountain.     Behind  this  mountain  is  the  Bay 
of  Fundy.     A  creek  of  the  bay  bounds  the  eastern 
extremity  of  the  plain  of  ComwaUis;  and,  in  point  of 
fact,  this  plain,  in  pretty  nearly  its  whole  extent,  is  but 
a  stretch  of  land  secured  by  diking  and  other  processes 
from  xhe  waters  of  the  creek.     Here,  again,  we  hear 
stones  of  the  doings  of  the  old  French  settlers.     It  was 
they  who  bmlt  the  first  rampart  to  keep  out  the  sea; 
the  present  occupants  only  following  their  example  in 
fresh  diking.      Conducted  by  a  young  and  inteUigent 
farmer  over  the  district,  I  was  shewn  the  great  Welling- 
ton dike,  a  recent  work  of  art  requiring  enormous  labour 
in  the  constraction,  and  esteemed  the  main  cui-iosity  of 
the  kind  in  the  province.  Composed  of  earth  and  brush- 


40 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


wood,  and  rising  about  tlurty  feet  in  height,  with  a 
similar  breadth,  it  forms  a  barrier  to  the  ocean,  securing 
a  large  tract  of  dry  land  for  purposes  of  agriculture. 
The  land  so  enclosed  is  called  dike  land,  and  the 
wealth  of  a  farmer  is  measured  by  the  quantity  of  this 
species  of  soil,  a  rich  muddy  residuum,  which  he  pos- 
sesses. So  fertile  is  this  land,  that  it  is  known  to  have 
yielded  heavy  crops  for  a  century  without  manuring. 
In  consequence  of  the  wheat-crops  being  somewhat 
precarious,  owing  to  the  destructive  attacks  of  a  fly,  the 
most  profitable  culture  at  present  is  that  of  potatoes, 
which  are  exported  in  prodigious  quantities  to  the 
United  States.  Hay  is  likewise  exported  to  a  consider- 
able extent.  Various  small  havens  in  the  Bay  of  Fundy 
oflFer  ready  means  for  these  exports,  which  have  latterly 
been  so  remunerative,  that  the  farmers  who  were  before 
in  difliculties  had  cleared  off  the  mortgages  on  their 
properties.  Farms  of  fine  diked  land  may  be  purchased 
here  for  from  ,£30  to  ,£50  per  acre ;  the  cleared  uplands, 
of  less  fertility,  but  under  cultivation,  from  £3  to  ,£10 
per  acre.  Cleared  land,  not  under  cultivation,  may  be 
had  at  a  considerably  lower  price.  I  asked  if  there  were 
any  farms  at  present  for  sale,  and  was  informed  that 
here,  as  almost  everywhere  else  in  America,  there  were 
few  persons  who  would  not  sell  and  clear  out  on  being 
tempted  with  an  offer  in  cash  j  the  explanation  of  this 
fact  being,  that  there  is  in  all  places  a  restless  desire  of 
change,  induced  by  the  universal  prospect  of  improve- 
ment in  circumstances. 

In  my  interviews  with  the  Comwallis  settlers,  I  saw 
an  agreeable  specimen  of  those  farm  establishments  in 
which  the  occupants  were  the  proprietors  of  the  soU. 
Being  of  comparatively  old  date,  there  was  here  no  such 
roughness  as  is  observable  in  newly  opened  districts  of 
country.  Things  did  not  differ  materially  from  what  is 
seen  in  England.  The  houses  resembled  neat  villas,  and 


NOVA  SCOTIA. 


41 


with  pretty  little  dining  and  drawing  rooms,  were  as 

well  furnished  as  dwellings  of  a  moderate  size  in  the 

neighbom-hood  of  London.     Each  family  possessed  a 

light  four-wheeled  gig— a  wagon,  as  it  is  locally  called 

— in  which  to  make  visits  and  to  drive  to  church ;  the 

style  of  dressing  and  manners  was  all  that  could  be 

wished;  and  there  prevailed  a  hearty  desire  to  try  all 

proper  means  of  improvement.     The  aspect  of  things 

was  altogether  calculated  to    give  one    a  favourable 

impression   of  that  kind  of  farming  in   which   each 

husbandman  tills  his  own  land,  and  has  neither  factor 

nor  tax-collector  to  trouble  him.     Yet  life,  even  in  this 

Arcadia,  is  not  unmixed  happiness.     A  duty  of  30  per 

cent,  imposed  by  the  United  States  on  potatoes  imported 

into  that  country,  was  felt  to  be  a  serious  grievance; 

though,  doubtless,  the  Americans  themselves  were  the 

chief  sufferers  by  this  artificial  enhancement  of  price  in 

a  prime  necessary  of  life.     Besides  this,  the  farmers 

whom   I  conversed  with   complained  of  the  want  of 

labourers.     They  could  give  plenty  of  worl    to  steady 

men,  at  a  remuneration    of   from   ^20   to   ,£30  per 

annum  and  their  board.     One  farmer  mentioned  that 

the  persons  in  his  employment  lived  on  the  best  of 

everything,  and  were  discontented  if  they  got  a  dinner 

without  a  course  of  puddings  or  tarts  ! 

The  profusion  of  food  was  everywhere  remarkable; 
and  it  is  dispensed  with  a  liberality  which  gives  the 
assurance  that  it  is  easily  obtained.  This  abundance  is 
naturally  attended  by  low  prices.  At  the  comfortable 
hotel  at  Kentville,  and  also  at  Windsor,  I  had  occasion 
to  remark  the  cheapness  of  accommodation  for  travellers. 
For  tea,  bed,  and  breakfast,  my  bill  was  only  three 
English  shillings;  and  5s.  a  day  may  be  said  to  be  a 
fair  average  charge  for  living  in  these  hotels,  in  which, 
though  on  a  scale  very  inferior  to  what  is  seen  in  the 
States,  everything  is  clean,  neat,  and  well  managed. 


42 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


Prom  KentviUe  I  proceeded  in  the  stage,  a  long 
day's  journey  by  Aylesford  and  Bridgeton  to  Annapolis. 
Much  of  the  countiy  we  passed  through,  midway,  was 
imcleared  and  swampy,  and  much  consisted  of  poor- 
looking  sandy  plains,  locally  called  the  Devil's  Goose 
Pasture.     Here  we  saw  geese  and  pigs  browsing,  in  a 
state  of  greater  contentment  and  obesity  than  could 
be  expected  after  the  account  of  the  district  by  Sam 
Slick,  who  tells  us  that  the  plain  hereabout  '  is  given  up 
to  the  geese,  which  are  so  wretched  poor,  that  the  foxes 
won't  eat  them,  they  hurt  their  teeth  so  bad  !'     On  the 
confines  of  this  territory,  and  where  the  country  was 
beginning  to  look  a  little  better,  the  stage  stopped  at 
the  house  of  a  Scotsman,  who  had  emigrated  thirty 
years  ago  from  Aberdeenshire,  and  in  the  com-se  of  that 
time  had  cleared  a  considerable  tract  of  land,   and 
formed  a  large   establishment,  including  a  handsome 
store,  kept  by  his  son.     The  success  of  this  personage, 
now  a  wealthy  squire  in  his  way,  offered  a  fine  p-.ample 
of  what  any  poor  but  industrious  man  may  do  in  any 
part  of  the  British  American  colonies  or  the  States. 
He  seemed  gratified,  during  the  few  minutes  the  coach 
stopped,   in    having    an    opportunity    of   making    the 
acquaintance  of  one   of  his   countrymen.     He  spoke 
feelingly  of  Scotland,  which  he  would  like  once  more 
to  see  before  he  died ;  but  he  said  he  was  now  too  old 
to  think  of  so  distant  a  journey. 

Some  miles  beyond  this  point,  we  got  into  the  valley 
of  the  river  Annapolis,  which  we  crossed  at  the  thriving 
town  of  Bridgeton.  The  country  was  now  green,  beau- 
tiful, and  devoted  apparently  to  cattle-grazing.  After 
a  long  ride,  we  arrived  in  the  town  of  Annapolis,  a  place 
which  has  a  historical,  almost  an  antiquarian  interest, 
in  being  the  oldest  European  settlement  in  North 
America;  it  was  planted  by  the  French  in  1605,  and 
has  endured  the  fate  of  being  conquered,  burnt,  and 


NOVA  SCOTIA. 


48 


rebuilt  several  times.  It  is  situated  at  the  head  of  an 
inlet  of  the  sea,  and  at  present  derives  some  importance 
from  being  a  point  of  steam  communication,  to  and 
from  St  John's,  across  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  Unfortu- 
nately, it  did  not  come  up  to  this  character  on  the 
present  occasion.  The  first  news  communicated  to  us 
was,  that  a  telegraphic  message  had  just  arrived  from 
St  John's,  stating  that  the  steamer  was  laid  up  for 
repairs,  and  that  the  mails  would  arrive  by  a  pilot-boat. 
A  sad  disappointment  this ;  for  as  I  declined  risking  the 
passage  of  this  dangerous  bay  in  any  kind  of  small  boat, 
my  proposed  visit  to  New  Bruns^vick  was  now  imprac- 
ticable. The  advance  of  the  season  rendered  every  day 
precious.  I  could  not  risk  delay.  Not  to  lose  time, 
there  seemed  to  be  only  one  line  of  procedure  open,  and 
that  was  to  return  to  Halifax,  and  take  passage  to 
Boston  in  the  next  Cunard  vessel  touching  there  on  its 
way  from  England.  This  retracement  of  my  journey 
I  immediately  eflFected.  By  good-luck,  I  caught  the 
Canada,  steam-ship,  as  it  arrived  in  Halifax,  and  felt 
thankful  when,  after  a  toilsome  journey,  I  found  myself 
comfortably  seated  in  its  saloon. 

In  taking  leave  of  this  interesting  British  province, 
I  am  glad  to  be  in  a  position  to  bear  witness  to  its 
general  progress.  For  some  cause,  which  I  am  unable 
to  divine,  the  Nova  Scotians  have  been  spoken  of 
derisively  as  Blue  Noses,  who  are  in  most  things  behind 
the  rest  of  the  world.  I  have  not  refrained  from 
lamenting  the  unfortunate  circumstances  which  tend  to 
exclude  the  country  from  the  benefits  of  railway  inter- 
communication;  and  in  this,  as  well  as  some  other 
matters,  there  is  room  for  amendment.  But,  to  give 
the  Nova  Scotians  their  due,  the  wonder  is  not  that 
they  have  done  so  little,  but  so  much.  In  the  face  of 
all  sorts  of  misrepresentations  and  sarcasms,  they  have 
made  extraordinary  advances  as  regards  the  fisheries, 


44 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


and  coasting  and  foreign  commerce,  and  also  the  canr- 
mg  trade  of  other  countries.     I  find  by  a  late  report  of 
the  lieutenant-governor,  that  at  the  end  of  1853    the 
number  of  vessels  registered  in  the  province,  and  actu- 
aUy  employed  m  conducting  its  fishery,  commerce,  and 
carrying  trade,  had  increased  to  2943,  with  a  tonna-e 
of  189,083  ;  as  many  as  360  vessels  having  been  added 
m  SIX  yeara.     From  irregularity  of  surface,  sea-indenta- 
tions,  and  other  physical  features,  the  province  has  no 
pretension  to    compare    herself   as    a  wheat -growing 
country  with  the  lands  adjoining  the  great  lakes ;  but 
even  in  this  respect,  and  with  a  population  of  only 
300,000,  '  she  beats,'  says  the  same  authority,  <  five  of 
the   New  England    states,   and    twelve   of  the  more 
recently  settled  states  and  territories.' 


1 1 


CHAPTER    III. 


BOSTON    TO    MONTREAL. 


The  run  from  Halifax  to  Boston  occupied  about  thirty 
hours,  and  was  not  marked  by  any  incident  worth 
relating.  The  course  pursued  was  across  the  entrance 
to  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  where  fogs  often  prevail,  and 
where  there  is  at  all  times  a  wild  tumbling  sea.  For- 
tunately, however,  the  fogs  which  vex  mariners  along 
the  whole  of  the  coasts  in  this  quarter,  did  not  make 
their  appearance  on  the  present  occasion;  and  at  a  late 
hour  on  a  clear  moonlight  evening,  we  quietly  made  our 
way  into  the  spacious  and  sinuous  inlet  which  forms  the 
harbour  of  Boston. 

It  is  remarkable  how  much  a  traveller  is  left  to  learn 
by  chance  as  he  proceeds  on  his  journey.  The  notion 
in  England  's,  that  the  Liverpool  and  Boston  steamers 
actually  go  to  the  place  to  which  they  are  said  to  be 
boimd;  but  such  is  not  the  case;  and  this  fact  I  was 
not  aware  of  till  we  were  on  the  point  of  landing.  I  now 
ascertained,  that  instead  of  going  to  the  wharfs  of  the 
city,  the  vessel  was  to  proceed  to  East  Boston,  an  island 
from  which  there  is  a  communication  by  a  ferry-boat  to 
the  mainland. 

On  approaching  within  hail  of  our  destined  haven^ 
the  gentle  moonlight  enabled  us  to  perceive  that  a 
crowd  awaited  the  arrival  of  friends  on  the  landing- 
place.  Anon,  wives  and  husbands  and  old  acquaintances 
are  heard  calling  to  each  other;  and  in  a  few  minutes. 


li 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 

such  kissing  and  cordial  shaking  of  hands!  Among 
the  passengers  were  many  who  had  been  long  absent 
in  England  and  on  tlie  continent,  and  were  carrying 
home  impressions  of  European  scenery  and  society. 

The  transfer  of  luggage  to  the  custom-house  shed 
was  soon  effected;  and  although  the  hour  was  lat6, 
everything  was  examined  with  a  rapidity  and  ciAdlity 
that  merited  universal  thanks.  Coaches  for  the  various 
hotels  stood  outside,  and  each  being  duly  freighted,  off 
we  drove  for  the  ferry,  which  I  am  bound  to  acknow- 
ledge is  managed  in  such  a  way  as  to  give  the  least 
possible  uneasiness.  So  large  are  the  boats,  that  they 
accommodate  a  number  of  carriages  wliich  drive  from 
the  quay  direct  upon  their  deck.  In  this  strange  fashion 
of  riding  on  a  floating  steam-propelled  bridge,  we  were 
carried  without  rising  from  our  seats  across  a  channel 
1800  feet  wide  to  the  lower  end  of  one  of  the  streets  of 
Boston,  and  thence  to  our  respective  hotels. 

The  stay  I  was  now  able  to  make  in  the  far-fam   I 
capital  of  Massachusetts  was  so  brief,  that  it  will    le 
better  to  defer  any  notice  of  the  place  till  the  occasion 
of  my  subsequent  and  more  lengthened  visit  to  the 
New  England  States.     I  need  only  say,  that,  like  most 
strangers,  I  was  much  struck  with  the  old  and  respect- 
able appearance  of  Boston— its  substantial  and  hand- 
some houses  of  stone  and  brick,  its  well-paved   and 
cleanly  streets,  its  busy  and  orderly  population,  as  well 
as  with  the  various  tokens  of  literary  taste  and  refine- 
ment which  met  the  eye.     The  merest  glance  at  this 
city  and  its  thoroughfares,  thronged  with  passengers 
differing  in  no  respect  from  those  one  sees  any  day  in 
Regent  Street  or  the  Strand,  would  dispel  the  strange 
and  misty  notions  entertained  in  England  respecting 
the  people  of  the  United  States.     '  Did  you  find  them 
civilised  at  all?'  inquired  a  gentleman  shortly  after  my 
return  home.      Such  a  question  reminds   one  of  the 


BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL. 


47 


anecdote  told  by  the  late  Marchioness  of  ,   an 

English  peeress,  but  an  American  by  birth.  Soon  after 
her  ladyship's  arrival  in  Great  Britain,  she  went  on  a 
visit  to  the  house  of  a  nobleman  in  the  country.  There, 
on  being  conducted  through  the  hall  to  dinner,  she 
observed  that  a  crowd  of  servants  were  on  the  watch 
to  have  a  glimpse  of  her  in  passing;  and  one  of  them, 
vastly  to  her  amusement,  was  overheard  to  utter  in  an 
emphatic  whisper :  '  She's  white  ! ' 

In  Boston,  I  had  the  opportunity  of  seeing  for  the 
first  time  a  specimen  of  that  extraordinary  hotel  system, 
which  forms  one  of  the  leading  social  features  of  the 
United  States,  and  which  may  be  said  to  have  attained 
its  full  development  in  the  city  of  New  York.  I  lodged 
at  the  Revere  House,  an  estabUshment  consisting  of 
several  hundred  apartments,  including  a  more  than 
usually  splendid  suite  of  public  Irawing-rooms  and 
parlours,  and  a  spacious  saloon,  in  which  all  the  guests 
take  their  meals,  as  at  a  table-d'hote.  At  dinner,  which 
was  attended  by  about  a  hundred  guests,  I  waited  to 
see  the  nature  of  the  scramble,  which  English  travellers 
speak  of  as  characteristic  of  the  American  dining- 
system.  But  the  whole  routine  was  quiet  and  decorous. 
The  dinner  was  served  from  side -tables,  according  to 
order  fi-om  printed  biUs  of  fare,  placed  before  every 
guest;  and  instead  of  anything  like  hurry  or  hasty 
eating,  I  felt  embarrassed  by  the  formality  and  prolixity 
of  the  proceedings.  The  meal,  in  its  various  courses, 
lasted  about  an  hour;  and  in  fact  the  time  at  my 
disposal  would  not  allow  me  to  see  it  to  a  conclusion. 

From  Boston  there  now  radiate  eight  lines  of  railway, 
affording  a  ready  means  of  transit  in  every  direction. 
Persons  desirous  of  reaching  Lower  Canada  proceed  by 
way  of  Portland  in  Maine  as  the  most  direct  route; 
but  I  made  choice  of  that  by  Albany,  Saratoga,  and 
Lake  Champlain,  as  opening  to  view  a  line  of  country 


**<**»''«WeiKfFi--SS5i?~" 


48 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


tpii 

m 


associated  m  many  parts  with  the  history  of  the  revolu- 
tionary struggle.    The  completion,  some  years  ago,  of 

IZVf^"^  *"  '^"'""y  0"  *«  Hudson  has  beei  of 
the  greatest  importance  to  Boston;  for  it  brings  its  port 
n  direct  commumcation  with  the  western  country  and 
Its  lakes,  and  enables  it  to  maintain  something  hke  a 
rivalry  with  New  York,  and  other  Atlantic  cities.  It 
may,  indeed,  be  said,  that  without  a  comiection  of  this 
kind,  no  American  seaport  can  expect  to  rise  above 

planned,  what  efforts  are  everywhere  being  made  to 
secrire  a  share  of  its  traffic-great  in  the  present,  but 
mighty  beyond  calculation  in  the  future !  The  distance 
torn  Boston  to  Albany  is  200  miles,  and  to  perform 
this  journey,  I  set  off  on  a  Saturday  afternoon  at  half, 
past  foin-  o'clock-charge,  five  dollars,  and  the  time 
promised  on  the  road,  eight  hom-s.  It  was  my  fir^t 
Arneriean  railway  journey,  and  aU  was  novel. 

In  a  large  covered  terminus,  a  train  of  cars  was 
drawn  u^,,  ready  to  start  with  a  locomotive  at  their 
head  across  an  open  street ;  and  the  whole  set  off  with- 
wblr^-triP'"''"*'"''  *°  foot-passengers  than  that 

t^lrtl  ^r''''"'"^  ^^  '^'  '"^''^S  sounds  of  a 
bell  at  ached  to  the  top  of  the  engine.  And  so  onward, 
through  town  and  comitry,  here  intersecting  a  villa-e 
and  there  crossing  a  highway,  did  the  train  pursue  its 
way,  with  no  other  trace  of  protection  for  the  public 
than  the  veiy  useful  piece  of  advice-'  Look  out  for  the 
locomotive  when  the  bell  rings!'  painted  in  large 
charaetei^  on  sign-boards  at  eveiy  point  of  danger.     If 

Zd^^h  tT!f '',  '''"'=*  "^'^  *"^  obliging  hint  to 
mind  the  bell,  they  have  themselves  to  blauTe,  of  course  < 
The  cars  were  of  considerable  length,  with  a  range  of 
^ndows  alternating  with  polished   mahogany  pfneU 

oi   pamted   doth.      Each   accommodated    fifty,  eight 


i 


BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL.  ^g 

passengers,  who  sat,  two  together,  in  arm-chairs  covered 
with  red  plush,  in  a  row  on  each  side,  leaving  a  passage 
in  the  middle  which  communicated  with  a  door  at  both 
ends      The  passengers  faced  the  engine,  but  by  shifting 
the  backs  of  their  seats,  they  could  look  in  a  contrary 
direction.     Outside,  at  the  two  ends  of  each  car,  there 
was  a  smaQ  platform,  whence  to  descend  by  steps  to  the 
ground,  and  by  stepping  from  platform  to  platform,  the 
passengers  could  move  from  one  car  to  another  along 
the  whole  train.     Each  car  was  provided  with  a  stove 
which  stood  in  the  middle,  on  one  side,  and  was  heated 
mth  billets  of  wood.     A  recent  English  tourist  speaks 
of  the  manoeuvring  of  American  travellers  to  secure 
seats  as  far  from  the  stove  as  possible.     I  saw  nothing 
ot  this  kind,  now  or  subsequently.     The  heat  was  not 
offensive  m  any  train,  within  my  experience,  though  I 
beheve  it  is  so  occasionally;  and,  on  the  whole,  this 
method  of  heating  railway  carriages,  rude  as  it  may 
be,  IS  certainly  better  than  the  practice  of  not  heating 
them  at  all.    In  consequence  of  the  warmth  in  the  cars 
the  raUway  wrapper  which  had  accompanied  me  from 
England  proved  an  unnecessary  incumbrance.    So  much 
may  be  said  in  the  meanwhUe  on  a  subject  which  will 
require  more  ample   treatment  when  the  raUways  in 
vanous  states  have  come  under  notice.     In  taking  my 
place  at  Boston,  I  observed,  as  on  many  subsequent 
occasions,  that  there  was  only  one  class;  but  there  was 
little  perceptible  difference,  as  respects  the  dress  or 
orderly  demeanour  of  the  passengers,  which  could  not 
perhaps  be  said  of  such  a  miscellaneous  gathering  of 
Enghsh  travellers. 

Our  line  of  route  afforded  a  fair  opportunity  of 
seemg  a  considerable  part  of  Massachusetts,  and  it  was 
anything  but  pleasing  in  point  of  rural  scenery.  The 
land  of  an  undulating  configuration,  is  generally  poor. 
KnoUs,   covered    with    scraggy  bush,   through   which 

n 


J 


«0 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


peeped  masses  of  granite,  and  sandy  plains  with  a 
scanty  herbage,  were  intermingled  with  a  never-ending 
series  of  ponds  or  smaU  lakes,  and  I  conld  not  help 
pitying  the  farmers  who  endeavoured  to  wring  a  live- 
lihood out  of  the  partially  cleared  and  ungenial  soil. 
Massachusetts,  however,  lays  no  claim  to  a  reputation 
for  agriculture.  It  is  not  able  to  raise  food  to  support 
itself,  and,  like  many  parts  of  England,  rests  on  the 
manufacturing  skill  and  general  ingenuity  of  its  inha- 
bitants. The  railway  passes  through  a  number  of 
populous  cities,  each  the  seat  of  some  kind  of  thriving 
manufacture.  The  largest  of  these  centres  of  industry 
axe  Worcester  and  Springfield;  the  latter  situated  on 
the  east  bank  of  the  Connecticut  river,  a  navigable 
stream  of  great  size,  flowing  through  a  tract  of  country 
more  green  and  rich  than  that  previously  seen  on  the 
route. 

The  enlivening  objects  on  the  line  of  road,  are  the 
numerous  villages  and  detached  dweUings,  of  the  true 
New  England  character.  The  houses  constructed  of 
wood,  painted  white,  with  their  bright  green  jalousies 
folded  back  as  exterior  window-shutters,  and  their  neat 
porches  and  flower-plots  in  front,  look  every  one  of 
them  as  if  just  taken  from  a  box  and  put  out  for  an 
airing.  It  is  impossible  to  see  these  trimly-kept  and 
pretty  dwellings,  without  an  inclination  to  congratu- 
late the  country  on  having  been  originaUy  settled  by 
a  people  who  brought  mth  them  from  the  south 
of  England,  not  only  the  love  of  civil  liberty,  but 
an  inherent  taste  for  domestic  cleanliness— a  quality 
which,  possibly  through  this  channel,  has  been  largely 
difiused  through  the  United  States. 

After  passing  Springfield,  the  number  of  passengers 
m  the  cars  was  considerably  diminished,  and  the  lamps 
shed  a  dim  light  over  the  vacant  seats  and  those  who 
remained   as  my  companions.     As  the  track   was   as 


BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL.  gj 

usual  only  single,  the  train  required  to  stop  at  one  of 
the  stations  to  wait  the  arrival  of  that  which  was 
commg  in  a  contrary  direction.     How  long  we  were  to 
remain  here  was  not  explained,  unta  the  door  of  our 
car  was  opened,  and  a  head  in  a  rough  cap,  from  a 
neighbourmg  groggery,   made    the   abrupt   announce- 
ment :  <  You  have  an  hour  to  wait,  and  there's  good 
eatmg  round  the  comer/    Then  arose  a  commotion 
among  the  passengers.     A  number  left  their  seats,  to 
tollow  the  head  wheresoever  it  might  lead  them;  and 
joming  the  throng,  we  crossed  a  compHcation  of  rails 
turned  a  comer,  and  ascended  a  wooden  outside  stair  to 
an  apartment,  which  united  the  character  of  bar-room 
shop,  and  kitchen.  At  one  side,  a  man  behind  a  counter 
had  charge  of  the  Hquoring   department;  in  another 
quarter,  a  lad  dispensed  ham  and  pumpkin  pie;  and  at 
the  further  end  of  the  room,  two  women  were  assidu- 
ously engaged  in  dressing  oysters  in  frying-pans     The 
scene  was  strange,  and  the  place  not  exactly  such  as  I 
should  have  selected  for  supper,  had  there  been  a  choice 
As  It  was,  I  procured  some  refreshment,  and  having 
warmed  myself  at   a  stove,   retumed  to  the    nearly 
deserted  car.      There,  I  found  only  a  humble  couple 
an  emigrant    and    his  wife,    bound   for   the  westeni 
country.     The  man  had  charge  of  a  bundle  on  which 
were  tied  a  tm  kettle  and  drinl.og.cup,  and  the  wife 
pressmg  a  clamorous  child  to  her  bosom,  promised  it 
in  the  Done  of  Lowland  Scotland,  that  if  it  would  be 
good  and  He  still,  it  would  soon  get  to  Albany    and 
have  everything  nice,  and  be  put  to  bed.     I--  was  a 
difficult  matter,  however,  to  persuade  young  Sandy  to 
be  perfectly  submissive,  and  I  was  glad  when  his  remon- 
strances were  drowned  in  the  premonitory  tolling  of  the 
engineer's  beU  and  the  onward  roUing  of  the  train. 

This  was  not  the  only  delay  to  our  progress.     About 
an  hour  after  midnight,  we  came  to  a  sudden  pause 


Miiiiiniiiiiiiaa 


62 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


m 


w 


&'" 


where  no  station  was  ^dsible;  and  immediately,  very 
much  to  my  surprise,   the   engine-driver,   conductor, 
and   several  passengers  were  seen  sallying  forth  with 
lanterns,  and  hastening  down  the  embankment  on  our 
nght.  ^  What  are  they  going  to  do  now?'  said  I  to 
a  gentleman,  who,  like  myself,  kept  his  seat.     ^  Only 
to  take  a  look   at  some  cars  that  were  smashed  this 
mormng,   was  the  reply.     On  opening  the  window  to 
obsen^e  the  state  of  affairs,  as  weU  as  the   darkness 
would  allow,  there,  to  be  sui-e,  at  the  bottom  and  along 
the  side  01  the  high  bank,  lay  an  mihappy  train,  just 
as  It  had   been  upset.      The  locomotive   on  its  side 
was  partly  buried  in  the  earth;  and  the  cars  which  had 
followed  It  m  Its  descent  lay  in  a  coniused  heap  behind. 
On  the  top  of  the  bank,  near  to  us,  the  last  car  of  all 
stood  obhquely  on  end,  with  its  hind  wheels  in  the 
air  m  a  somewhat  grotesque  and  threatening  attitude 
AU  was  now  stiU  and  silent.     The  kiUed  and  wounded. 
If  there  were  any,  had  been  removed.     No  living  thing 
was  visible  but  the  errant  engineer  and  others  from 
our  tram  clambering  with  lanterns  in  their  hands  over 
the  prostrate  wreck,  and  with  heedless  levity  p,  sing 
critical  remarks  on  the  catastrophe.     Cmdosity  being 
satisfied,  all  resumed  their  places,  and  the  train  moved 
on  without  a  murmur  of  complaint  as  to  the  unneces- 
sary  and  considering  the  hour,  very  undesirable  delay. 
L^f?  .   .*i^'  c.if .^«i«tance,  as  one  of  a  variety  of 
facts  that   fell  withm  my  observation,  iUustrative   of 
the   smgular  degree  of  patience  and  impertm-bability 
with    which    railway   traveUers    in   America    submit 
imcomplainmgly  to  all  sorts  of  detentions  on   their 
journey. 

In  consequence  of  these  stoppages,  the  train  did  not 
amve  at  its  terminus  on  the  Hudson  till  past  two 
o  clock  in  the  morning;  and,  after  all,  the  passengers 
required  to   cross  in   a  ferry-boat   to  Albany.     This 


4 


BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL.  *- 

unpleasant  feat  being  a  ,complished,  a  fellow-passenger 
ohhg^gly  condueted  me  to  the  Delavan  House,  one  of 
the  hotels  m  the  city. 

Here  I  remained  aU  next  day,  for  even  had  I  besn 
mchned  to  proceed  on  my  journey,  I  could  not  have 
done  so;  for  m  the  northern  states  there  is  no  railway 

stop  at  the  town  or  viUage  where  they  arrive  late  on 

ttrfn  F^^f  ^  T^  *^"'  '^^''^'''^  ^«  '^  '^^  olden 
tmie  in  England,  have  a  day  to  spend  in  the  tranquil 

enjoyment  of  a  comitiy  inn,  with  a  httle  breathing, 
time  for  the  performance  of  religious  duties.      The 
morning  da^vned  bright  and  beautiful,  and,  walking 
out   I  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  how  Sunday  was 
kept  m  the  capital  of  the  state  of  New  York.     Occu 
Vymg  a  pleasant  situation  on  a  rising-ground  facing 
the  Hudson,  the  long  streets,  Hned  with  lofty  and  well- 
built  houses,  and  ornamented,  as  usual,  with  rows  of 
^ees  shading  the  footpaths,  were  in  universal  repose. 
AU  paces  of  business  were  shut;  the  traffic  connected 
with  the  shipping  was  at  rest;  and  nothing  seemed  to 
be  going  on  except  in  a  few  half-shut  grogeeries  on  thp 
quay  fronting  the  river,  where  boatmfn  IT^lZst 
bushy  whiskers,  and   rough  WelUngton-boots   pulled 
over  their  trousers,  sat  smoking  away  at  long  pipes  in 

upon  the  smishmy  stillness,  was  the  voice  of  an  itine- 
rant preacher  who  stood,  Bible  in  hand,  on  the  middle 
of  a  drawbndge  which  crossed  to  one  of  the  exterior 
wnarts.  It  was  a  thankless  oxpenditure  of  good  inten- 
tions.  Except  a  fluctuating  crowd  of  idle  youngsters 
no  one  appeared  to  listen  to  the  poor  man's"^  discourse; 
winch  for  anythmg  I  know,  lasted  aU  day,  as  I  found 
a  similar  harangue  going  on  on  the  same  spot  in  the 
evemng.  ^  ^^^ 

Albany,  like  all  other  cities  in  America,  nn«...««.« 


54 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


■ 


a  choice  collection  of  churches  of  handsome  exterior, 
each   sect  apparently  vieing  with  another  as  regards 
the  attractiveness  of  its  place  of  worship.     The  bells 
having  begun  to  ring,  I  entered  a  church  of  respectable 
appearance,  which  I  found  to  belong  to   the  Baptist 
connection.     The  church,   which  was  filled  with   an 
exceedingly  well-dressed  and    attentive   congregation, 
was   fitted   up  with  a  regard  to  taste   and  comfort 
strikingly  characteristic   of  places  of  public  worship 
in  the   United   States.     Every  traveller  remarks  the 
neatness  of  American  churches.    They  resemble  neither 
the  venerable  parish  churches  of  England,  with  their 
old  oak  family-pews,  antique  monuments,   and  troop 
of  charity  children;  nor  the  parish  churches  of  Scot- 
land, with  their  plain  deal-seats,  damp  earthen  floors, 
and  unmelodious  precentors.     All  of  them,  of  whatever 
communion  I  chanced  to  attend  during  my  journey, 
were  carpeted  all  over  like  a  drawing-room ;  the  pews, 
of  finely  polished  or  painted  wood,  were  spacious  and 
cushioned;  the  windows  furnished  with  Venetian  bhnds, 
to  moderate  the  glare  of  sunshine;  and  the  pulpit,  low 
and  without  a  sounding-board,  consisted  of  a  kind  of 
enclosed  platform,  which  was  provided  with  a  handsome 
sofa  for  a  seat.     It  may  also  be  noticed,  that  the  pews 
are  generally  provided  with  light  fans,  which  the  ladies 
employ  during  warm  weather.     I  never  saw  any  func- 
tionary acting  in  the  capar'ty  of  clerk  or  precentor. 
The  singing  is  usually  led  by  an  organ  and  choir  in  a 
gaUery  opposite  the  pulpit.      Not  the   least  remark- 
able peculiarity  in  the  arrangements,  is  the  voluntary 
association  of  a  number  of  young  ladies  and  gentlemen 
to  compose  the  choir.     In  some  fashionable  churches 
there  are  paid   singers;  but  throughout  the  country 
generally,  the  members  of  the  choirs  belong  to  the  best 
famihes,  and  act  gratuitously.     In  one  place  which  I 
visited,  the  leader  of  the  church-choir  was  the  principal 


BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL.  gg 

medical  man  in  the  to.yn.     Facts  of  this  kind  are  too 
pleasing  to  be  overlooked. 

The  hotel  into  which  chance  had  thrown  me  at 
Albany,  I  found  to  be  conducted  on  the  temperance 
principle  J  but  it  did  not  seem  on  that  account  to  be 
inferior  m  point  of  extent  or  management.   About  sixty 
people  attended  the  several  meals  in  the  saloon,  where 
everythmg,  as  I  afterwards  discovered  to  be  a  common 
arrangement,  was  served  to  order  from  printed  biHs  of 
tare    At  the  head  of  the  room,  near  the  entrance,  stood 
a  colom-ed  manager.     This  personage,  with  a  bow  and 
wave  of  the  hand,  allotted  seats  to  the  guests,  and  acted 
as  a  kmd  of  fugleman  to  some  eighteen  or  twenty 
waitresses    who  were  dressed  in  a  somewhat  uniform 
style     All  of  them,  as  I  understood,  were  Irish  girls. 
AS  at  Boston    there  Avas  nothing  like  fast  eating  at 
table;  and  I  began  to  wonder  when  this  phenomenon 
was  to  make  its  appearance. 

Behind  the  hotel  is  a  narrow  street,  into  which  the 
window  of  my   bedi'oom    opened,   and    at    dawn    on 
Monday  morning  there  commenced  the  warning  sound 
of  engme-bells,  and  the  ratthng  of  trains.     Looking 
down  mto  this  narrow  thoroughfare,  one  could  not  but 
be  amazed  at  the  manner  in  which  a  Hne  of  railway 
had  been  run  along  its  centre,  leaving  scarcely  space 
for  an  ordinary  carriage  on  each  side,  and,  consequently, 
putting  children  and   passengers    in   continual  perO 
Other  streets  in  the  lower  part  of  the  city  are  sinularly 
traversed;  and  that  such  encroachments  are  here  and 
elsewhere  permitted,  may  be  supposed  to  be  a  strong 
mdication  of  the  small  value  set  upon  private  right 
and  convenience,  when  the  interests  of  the  pubHc  are 
presumed  to  be  concerned.     It  may,  indeed,  be  said, 
that  danger  to  life  and  Umb  is  seldom  of  so  much  con- 
sequence as  to  prevent  raUways  from  being  extended 
in  an  unguarded  form  into  the  heart  of  any  viUage  or 


S«t*««>»-.i.»i»««. 


M 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


City  in  the  States;  the  advantages  of  railway  communi- 
cation in  developing  resources,  and  increasing  the  value 
of  property,  being  apparently  held  to  be  paramount  to 
every  other  consideration. 

By  one  of  the  raUways  so  strangely  projected  along 
and  across   certam  streets,   I   moved  westward  from 
Albany  to  Saratoga,  the  line  of  route  being  through  a 
rather  pretty  country,   undulating   and  well  wooded, 
and  settled  by  a  class  of  farmers  whose   fields  were 
regulariy  enclosed  and  cultured.     Joined  by  a  branch 
from  Troy,  a  populous  city  on  the   east  bank  of  the 
Hudson,  the  line  crosses  several  branches  of  the  river 
Mohawk,  and  at  different  points  we  pass  near  the  Erie 
and  Champlam  canals,  by  which  a  large  traffic  is  poured 
through  this  part  of  the  countiy.     On  the  Mohawk, 
several  fine  falls  are  disclosed,  and  Ave  drive  through 
scenery  which  must  afford  the  most  delightful  summer 
rambles  to  the  leisurely  pedestrian.     ViUages  of  smart 
wooden  houses   are  passed   at  intervals,   and  at  the 
distance  of  thirty-two  miles  from  Albany  we  arrive  at 
BaUston  Spa,  a  place  celebrated  for  its  mineral  waters 
and  right  through  which  the  railway  passes,  offering 
the  facility  of  setting  down  and  taking  up  passengers 
at  the  door  of  the  principal  hotel.     Seven  miles  farther 
on,  m  the  midst  of  a  level  and  sandy  tract  of  country 
covered  with  trees,  we  reach   Saratoga   Springs,  the 
most  fashionable  and  numerously  attended   watering- 
place  m  the  United  States.  ^ 
Gay  and  thronged  in  the  height  of  summer,  how  dull 
were  now  the  deserted  promenades  of  Saratoga »     A 
long  broad  street,  ornamented  with  rows  of  trees  from 
which    every    light    wind    brought   down   showers    of 
discoloured  leaves,  was  lined  with  hotels  of  enormous 
dimensions,  but  with  two  or  three  exceptions,  aU  were 
shut  up  for  the  season;  and  so  they  would  remain  till 
the  heats  of  the  next  dog-days  brought  troops  of  new 


I 


BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL. 


fi7 


visitors  to  the  springs.     I  had  the  curiosity  to  taste 
one  of  the  medicinal  waters,  which  rose  in  a  powerful 
volume  through  a  wooden  tube  fixed  over  tlie  spring. 
It  sparkled  with  confined  air,  had  a  slight  flavour  of 
iron  and  weak  beer,  and  was  by  no  means  unpleasant. 
The  efficacy  of  the  difierent  springs  would  require,  I 
think,  to  be  considerable;  for  in  the  village  itself,  inde- 
pendently of  a  gay  hotel-life,  and  the  pleasure  of  loung- 
ing in  arm-chairs   under  long  shady  verandas,  there 
seemed  to  be  absolutely  no  attractions.     Rides  through 
glades  in  the  forest,  and  visits  to  interesting  scenes  in 
the  neighbourhood,  possibly  help  to  draw  strangers  to 
the  spot.     Here  we  may  consider  ourselves  to  be  in  the 
centre  of  a  district  in  which  took  place  a  series  of 
warlike  engagements,  first  between  the  English  and 
French,  and  afterwards  between  the  British  and  Ameri- 
can forces.     It  will  be  recollected,  that  it  was  at  Fish 
Creek,  on  the  Hudson,  after  a  variety  of  operations  in 
this  vicinity,  that  the  unfortunate  Burgoyre  surrendered 
with  an  aniiy  of  5000  men  to  General  Gates  on  the 
17th  of  October  1777.     Having  walked  over  the  scene 
of  this  dismal  humihation,  the  tourist  will  pursue  his 
way  to  Fort  Edward,  and  Lakes  George  and  Champlain, 
the  whole  forming  a  group  of  scenes  not  only  among 
the  most   picturesque  in  America,  but  abounding  at 
almost  every  step  in  the  deepest  historical  interest. 

At  the  time  of  my  visit,  various  alterations  were 
going  on  in  Saratoga,  including  the  laying  of  pipes  for 
gas  and  the  erection  of  some  new  structures.  I  had 
some  amusement  in  noticing  the  removal  of  a  house  on 
rollers— a  process  at  which  the  Americans  are  adepts. 
The  house  in  question  was  of  two  stories,  and  the  object 
seemed  to  be  its  transference  to  the  opposite  side  of  the 
street.  It  had  already  performed  one-half  of  its  journey 
across,  and  I  have  no  doubt  would  settle  down  in  its 
new  situation  without  any  untoward  casualty.     The 


08 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


form  ure  withm  it  did  not  appear  to  be  disturbed   nor 
had  .t  been  deserted  by  its  adventurous  inbabitanto 
r,J      ''°"?"«t"'n  "f  houses  of  wood  admits  of  these 
not  veo^ difficult  transitions;  and  so  far  a  tin-ber  dweU 
•ng  has  Its  advantages.    But  other  cireumstanees  relder 
wood  desirable  as  a  material  for  house-buildin'     Nol 
to  speak  of  the  cheapness  of  deals,  or  lumberfas  ml 
^nd  of  t,mbcr  «  ,^^,y  ^^i^   ^  'J™ 

much  warmer  than  one  of  stone  during  the  inelcmenoy 
of  wmter,  and  therefore  many  persons  consider  it  p"  fe^ 
able     Such,  at  least,  I  found  to  be  the  general  opinion 

hamcwork  is  formed   over  which  plain  deals  are  fast- 
sTcn  'is  t  ™^-,T''  ,'"■■  ^""^  """^  ^-J--^-     ™«  »ext 

^dC  '*  '^'*  ""'"'•  "^^  "•o™  of  elates; 

TsMnl         '^'?S«"'^''*  '^  snowed  ^vith  the  roof 
t  d^^    .        ,    ^'"^'  ^*  ""'""ental  architraves 

betto  effect  r^°T  """^  ?™I«=''^  !>=''»*'='''  has  a  folly 
oetter  effect  than  a  house  simply  weather-boarded      In 

e^her  case  the  air  is  effectoaltyexcluded;  a"d  as  the 

inside  ,s  always  plastered,  and  finished  off  with  orna! 

mental  paper  hangmgs,  the  house  is  as  eonifortabras 

dTe  W  Twb- 1*  "^rT'  ^"^'^  ""^''^  -temporised 
awt^ing,   in  which  only  the  chimneys  are  of  brick 

suits  a  new  eouutry;  and  it  is  such  houses,  of  a  smaU 

and  neat  kmd,  placed  in  the  outskirts  a^d  b™ 

of  American  cities,  that  are  owned  and  oecupfedT 

artisans  and  others  of  much  higher  means.    T^arvfhich 

appear  strange  to  an  Englishman,  is  the  durability  of 

these  wooden  structures,  the  very  roofs  of  which  are  of 

a  s^min^y  perishable  material.  ^But  aU  is  ^i^w 

that  exceeding  dryness  of  atmosphere,  which  foms  a  lead 

rngpeculianty  of  the  North  America;  climate,  aMwS^h 

even  the  heaviest  rains  can  scarcely  be  said  t^  inte^pt 


BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL. 


nor 


60 


From  Saratoga,  travellers  may  diverge  towards  Lako 
George ;  but  my  plans  not  admitting  of  this  interesting 
lateral  trip,  I  contented  myself  with  pursuing  the  route 
northwards  to  the  foot  of  Lake  Champlain.  This  run 
of  220  miles  in  one  day,  bv  cars  and  steamers,  from 
Saratoga  Springs  to  Montreal,  was  the  most  suggestive 
and  pleasant  I  made  in  the  whole  cour«e  of  my  journey. 
It  took  me  through  a  region,  almost  every  foot  of  which 
had  been  the  scene  of  military  contention.  Projected 
from  the  borders  of  Canada,  and  connected  by  its  outlet 
with  the  St  Lawrence,  Lake  Jhamplain  has  always  been 
a  favourite  channel  of  attack  on  the  States  from  the 
north,  and  at  different  points  has  been  strengthened  by 
military  posts,  to  which  the  English  Gucceeded  on  the 
expulsion  of  the  French,  and  which  now,  within  the 
American  frontier,  are  with  one  exception  deserted  and 
in  ruins. 

Passing  the  hamlet  of  Fort  Ann,  the  cars,  a  few 
miles  further  on,  reach  Whitehall,  known  during  the 
war  as  Skenesborough.  Here  the  railway  stops,  and 
we  have  the  first  glimpse  of  Lake  Champlain,  probably 
the  finest  thing  of  its  kind  in  America,  and  in  some 
respects  rivalling  the  most  beautiful  lakes  of  the  old 
world.  Stepping  on  board  a  steam-boat  which  awaited 
the  arrival  of  the  train,  I  was  amazed  at  the  size  and 
magnificence  of  the  vessel.  Resembling  a  floating 
palace  in  its  interior  accommodations  and  ornament, 
it  offered  for  repose  a  spacious  and  airy  saloon,  fur- 
nished with  the  richest  cai-pets  and  sofas,  and  from 
tall  pier-mirrors,  surmounting  marble  tables,  you  were 
reflected  at  every  movement.  The  only  discordant 
feature  in  this  elegant  apartment,  was  a  number  of 
large  spittoons  of  brown  earthenware,  placed  near  the 
velvet-covered  sofas  for  the  use  of  the  passengers. 
Such  things  had  already  come  under  my  notice  in  the 
parlours  of  the  hotels  I  had  visited;  and  although  I 


60 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


veyed  an  ^^^Z^ZttZ':^^  h'^"^  ^°^; 
an  unenviable  notoriety  ^'^  ^^^^  ^^^^^^ 

r  "  "^  uusny  Headlands,  and  overlooked  hv  +!,«  «     n 

altogether  a  WW  IsJ^Oer  otrreft^'^t 
fnu  iigai  tnat  oi  Vermont.     The  form^^  ,•=  +1, 

the  Vermont  side,  are  seen  rt„  1  «  *"™''®'  °° 

from  which  the  stitrLsIrifea  to  Lr"*-'""'"'""^' 
>;ere  the  first  hill,,  worthyTttrntriT^-  ^'^^ 
America.     The  steamer   ;„  V  '      '""^  ^'*''  >» 

stopped  at varioufS to, 'lP^;fr^  "I"  *^  '"k-'- 
One  of  these  nointr.^-'^  *'*'"=  "PP=''^™g«'-s. 

left,  was  Ticii::::::  :,t"s  ^f  xts«:"°" 

are  observed  overhanging  the  cliffs  InT  •  f '''''.''*'°™ 
with  the  wild  brushwood^  "ftl  fL  ^"'"f "'' 
warfare  against  thp  F„„l,=i,      i  """'''  '"  their 

selves  inl755;  he.f™s  the  "'^'  established  them- 
ewments,  i'n  whlcrM^tc.::,^  HoT.^Tr 

dL;1  ceStlfr""'™""''"'''^  ''^  Captain 
AUen  and  Hand  oTrr  "T'"^  *"  C°'™^'  ^than 

1775.  Crown  Poinff!rt,2  ^T^T.^"'''  ^"^  1«' 
side,  and  where  ZZ  J  ^,  '*"  ""  '"'e  same 
beach,  is  the  2  rf  »  ^Tt  '"''"'"'  '"  ""  '"^"essible 
of  the  s.m„  '  °"'''  ""''  «"»•«  imposino-  fort 

the  same  ong„.    After  being  wrested  from"  Z 


BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL.  gj 

French,  the  fortress  was  greatly  enlarged  by  Lord 
Amherst,  and  is  said,  in  various  vyays,  to  have  cost  the 
British  government  two  millions  sterling.  It  also  feU 
into  the  hands  of  the  Americans,  and  now  consists  of  a 
number  of  rugged  waHs  and  grassy  mounds,  a  gUmpse 
ot  which  IS  obtained  from  the  deck  of  the  passing 
steamer.  °  ■ 

Having    passed   these    spots,    the   passengers  were 
summoned  to  dinner  in  a  lower  s,  ^oon,  along  which 
two  tables  were  prepared  as  tastefu       xs  in  a  first-rate 
hotel.     On  descending  to  take  our  places,  the  gentle- 
men  of  the  party  were  requested  to  wait  tJU  tl  ,  ladies 
had  come  ao^vn  and  seated  themselves;  an  arrangement 
mth  which,  of  course,  all  acquiesced.    Those  gentlemen 
who  had  ladies  in  charge  participated  in  the  choice  of 
places  at  the  top  of  the  tables;  the  balance  of  the  seats 
to  use  an  American  phrase,  being  left  to  such  solitar^ 
travellers  as  myself.     I  did  not,  however,  fmd  on  this 
or  subsequent  occasions  that  any  diflPerence  was  made 
between  the  upper  and  lower  parts  of  the  tables,  as 
respects  ^aands  or  attendance.     Again,  in  this  meal,  I 
tailed  to  observe  any  voracity  in  the  guests ;  and  nothing 
was  drunk  but  iced  water-a  luxury  ^yith  which  the 
people  of  England  generally  have,  as  yet,  little  practical 
acquaintance. 

Burlington,  a  handsomely  built  and  thriving  town 
IS  the  port   of  largest  size  touched  by  the  steamer! 
It  IS  situated  at  the  bottom  of  a  bay,  on  the  east  or 
Vermont  side  oi  the  lake,  ^nd  possesses  rail./ay  com- 
munication m  several  directions,  by  which  travellers 
have  an  opportunity  of  varying  their  route.     Fm^her 
on,  and  diagonaUy  crossing  this  fine  sheet  of  water 
which  IS  here  eight  to  nine  miles  wide,  and  prettily 
dotted  with  islands,  we   amve  at  Plattsbui-g    in  the 
state  of  New  York.     A  railway  train  in  waiting  now 
carried  us  forward  in  a  noii;herly  direction,  and  having- 


«  THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 

advanced  a  few  mUes,  we  cross  the  frontier  int»  Lower 
beZ^L  .'  only-.Ucation  we  have  of  the  ci^^ 
b^g  the  admonition  m  French  at  raUway  crossing!  ■ 
W  garde  de  k  machine,  qn^d  la  cloche  soZ' 
-a  strange  mvasion  of  the  peaceful  routine  of  habitant 

About  nine  o'clock  in  the  evening,  the  train  arrived 

across  to  La  Chine,  the  steamer  occupying  twentv 

ficent  nv«  took  place,  therefore,  in  the  partial  darkSs 

frorr^"  r^":*-     '^'"'  ""^  J-t  sufficient  ligh 
from  the  stars  to  shew  that  we  were  upon  a  stream  a 

h?LlTM  "Ti*'  """S  ^  ''  «^«'-'  ""od  from 

E,^!  ?  T  ""^  '!'"'*'"  "=^*'^"''*y  of  the  island  of 
Montreal  and  entering  a  railway  terminus,  found  a 
tram  with  the  English  form  of  carnages  reX  to 
depart  for  the  city  of  Montreal.    This  trip  rf  S  o^ 

hands  of  an  Irish  cabman,  driving  impetuously  through 
a  series  of  sti-eets  to  a  hotel;  having  in  the  spac " rf 
fourteen  hours,  without  toU  or  anxiety,  and  forTfew 
doUars,  performed  a  journey  which,  thirty  years  aeT 
would  probably  have  required  a  week  to  ZmpSi  ^  ' 


CHAPTER   IV. 


MONTREAL. 

The  English  tourist  who  steps  ashore  for  the  first  time 
in  France,  is  not  more  struck  with  the  novelty  of 
general   appearances,  than  is  the  traveller  from  the 
United  States  on  arriving-  in  Montreal.     A  journey  of 
a  few  miles  has  transferred  him  from  towns  of  brick 
and  painted  wood,  spacious  streets  with  as  many  trees 
as  houses,  bright  green  jalousies  and  shady  verandas, 
to  a  city  of  stone,  houses  covered  with  tin,  iron  window- 
shutters,  and  narrow  thoroughfares  with  designations 
m  French.     Other  things  serve  to  impress  him  with 
the  change.     He  sees  convents  within  high  walls,  such 
as  present  themselves  in  Bruges  or  Ghent;  and  the 
spectacle  of  soldiers  loitering  about  in  scarlet  uniforms 
reminds  him  that  he  is  not  only  in  a  British  possession, 
but  m  a  country  which,  from  some  cause  or  other,  is 
considered  to  require  the  presence  of  a  standing  army. 

Half  French  and  half  English—a  diversity  in  man- 
ners and  dress  as  well  as  in  creeds— institutions  drawn 
from  the  coutume  de  Paris  and  the  Parliament  of  West- 
minster—ancient feudalities  and  modem  privileged- 
traditions  of  the  Sulpicians  and  reminiscences  of  Lord 
Sydenham— nunneries  next  door  to  Manchester  ware- 
houses—barristers pleading  in  the  language  of  France 
and  a  custom-house  decorated  with  the  royal  arms  of 
England— priests  in  long  black  dresses,  and  Scotch 
Presbyterians— cabmen  in  frieze  jackets  fresh  from 


64 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


Ireland,  and  native  market-carters  in  coloured  sashes 
and  night-caps— in  short,  a  complication  of  incongrui- 
ties; the  old  and  new  world  jumbled  together,  and  then 
assorted  according  to  some  odd  device  in  social  econo- 
mics. Such  is  Montreal.  In  the  general  constitution 
of  things,  the  United  States,  though  near  neighbours, 
have  contributed  little  beyond  their  hotel -system, 
which  is  so  much  more  acceptable  than  that  of  England,' 
that  it  has  everywhere  been  imported  across  the  fron- 
tier and  naturalised  in  Canada.  The  leading  hotel 
is  Donegana's,  in  the  centre  of  the  city;  but  for  the 
sake  of  proximity  to  the  river  and  steamers,  I  preferred 
the  Montreal  House,  with  which  I  had  every  reason 
to  be  satisfied.  AU  the  waiters  in  the  estabUshment, 
about  a  dozen  in  number,  were  negroes;  being  probably 
refugees  from  the  south. 

Proceeding  out  of  doors  on  the  morning  after  my 
arrival,  that  which  first  drew  my  attention  was  the 
St  Lawrence,  clear  and  beautiful,  and  about  a  mile  in 
breadth,  facing  the  to^vn  on  the  south.    Looking  across 
this  splendid  river,  we  see  a  flat  country  beyond,  and 
in  the  far  distance,  the  Vermont  hills  of  the  United 
States.     On  careftd  observation,  the  river  is  seen  to 
be  broken  into  a  hurried  stream  or  rapid,  immediately 
above  the  town;   vessels,  accordingly,  are  unable  to 
ascend  beyond  this  point  without  proceeding  through 
a  canal  which  has  been  constructed  on  the  Montreal 
side,  the  first   of  a  series  of  similar  works  through 
whose  agency  ships  of  moderate  size  can  now  make 
their  way  unimpeded  from  the  ocean  to  Lake  Huron, 
a  distance  of  1300  miles.     Immediately  in  front  of  us 
is  the  long  and  well-built  quay,  with  commodious  pro- 
jecting piers  for  large  steam-vessels,  one  of  vvhich  has 
just  come  up  the  river  from  Quebec  and  is  landing  her 
passengers,  while  another  k  about  to  start  for  the  rail- 
way on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.     Several  sailing 


'E!    . 


MONTllEAL. 

OS 

vessels  are  at  the  same  time  mdoading  cargoes  of  mk 
cellan«,us  goods  for  the  'faU  trade;'  and  IpracC; 

we  lind  that  ,t  is  freighted  with  oysters,  which  an 
ancient  manner,  who  speaks  French  with  J^yoU 
bihty,  IS  selling  in  bushel  measures  to  a^w7  "f 
customers.     Turning  from  this  object  of  atttJZ     "f 
are  surprised  to  hear  the  sound' of  cantl    and  1 

fcS  tPd'^'r  ^'^^  ^^  ^^P»'^  Proc^^dfrom: 
tortified  island  a  short  way  down  the  river,  where  a 

body  of  soldiers  are  practising  the  use  of  artiUe,^ 

Walkmg  along  the  street  part  of  the  oiiav   „!,•  i, 
stretches  a  mile  in  length,  we  find  it  1  Le'd  ^^ 
and   massive   houses,   built  of  light  gray  Vm  stolf 
and  having  steep  roofs  covered  witl  tin!^which IhtteS 
like  burmshed  sdver  in  the  morning  sun.     TallSt  a^ 
most  m^sivc  of  all  ia  a  huge  marketS-ouse,  eoJ^Zs 
by  to  lofty  dome,  and  more  ambitious  tha^  appSate 
m  .(B  arclutecture.    From  this  open  thoroughfere  So^ 
which  an  mexhaustible  supply  of  light  du"  cav^S 
m  unwelcome  gusts,  I  was  glad  to  strike  into  the 

T,T\f^  ""  ^"^  "  ^^°««  inelinltirfr* 
TJ    \-  ?    ^™''g"'g  "»to  these  and  the  adioininff 
streeto  which  run  lengthwise  thiou-h  the  town  T 
stranger  will  not  fad  to  remark  the  m^b  r  of  wSesl 
stores  thronged  with  manufactured  articles  im^rted 
from  England,  and  forming  dep6ts  for  the  suXof 
fte  Canadian  traders.     The  aspect  of  these  warehouses 
with  Enghsh  and   Scotch  names  at  the  side  ofT^ 
doors,  reminded    me   of   the   busines     allej  behkd 

of  tlT  pit""  "'"''"^"^'''  *<=  eommerdal'eh^tt 

JcatnTrf  td  °'  ^°"*'''^'  *^^  '^'  =^»  ™''»*»«al 
maicanons  of  advancement,  as  if  modem  were  misl,in^ 

S  nl  "'7  '"''  ''"  ^°=''''''  -'growing  th:Snl 
IVeneh  population.    '  When  I  eame  to  thU  plaeeS? 


66 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


yeai-s  ago/  said  a  venerable  settler  from  Scotland,  'I 
scarcely  heard  a  word  of  English,  and  could  with  diffi- 
culty find  my  way;  now  matters  are  entirely  changed/ 
The  modernisation  of  the  city  has  been  considerably 
promoted  by  a  fire  which  some  years  ago  committed 
extensive  ravages.  A  crop  of  handsome  new  buildings 
has  sprung  up ;  but  with  few  exceptions,  they  follow  the 
line  of  the  old  and  narrow  streets,  instead  of  expanding 
over  a  larger  space  of  ground.  The  best  street  is  the 
Rue  Notre  Dame,  along  the  centre  of  the  low  ridge 
on  which  the  city  has  been  placed ;  but  it  is  exceeded 
in  breadth  and  in  elegance  of  architecture  by  St  James's 
Street,  a  little  further  west.  At  an  open  species  of 
square  that  intervenes  between  these  two  streets,  we 
find  some  of  the  more  important  pubhc  edifices  of  the 
city,  including  a  Eoman  Catholic  cathedral.  Every- 
body has  of  course  heard  of  this  last-mentioned  struc- 
ture, which  is  said  to  be  the  largest  place  of  public 
worship  in  the  mediseval  style  of  architecture  in 
America.  Built  of  gray  stone,  with  pointed  windows 
and  lofty  square  towers,  seen  at  a  great  distance,  it  is 
unfortunately  plain  to  baldness,  and  must  give  the 
Canadians  but  an  imperfect  notion  of  such  edifices  as 
the  cathedrals  of  Rouen  and  Antwerp — things  of 
beauty  to  be  remembered  for  ever.  Inside,  everything 
has  been  sacrificed  to  congregational  accommodation. 
Fitted  with  pews  and  galleries,  in  order  to  afford 
sittings  for  10,000  people,  it  has  no  pretensions  to  con- 
gruity  of  character,  and  with  roof  and  pillars  coarsely 
coloured,  it  may  be  said  that  an  effort  has  been  success- 
fully made  to  render  it  valueless  as  a  work  of  art. 

At  a  short  distance,  in  this  quarter,  there  are  some 
good  buildings  in  the  Grecian  style,  among  which  are 
more  particularly  observable  two  banks  and  a  large 
new  court-house.  Montreal,  it  is  proper  to  state,  is 
a  centre  of  considerable  banking  operations.     From  the 


MONTREAL. 


67 


^'^^■fr^"'''''  ^"''"^  -*-'»«™^  (^  Entlish  concern! 
and  of  Montreal,  both  of  a  highly  rcspeotable  ch^to' 

in  Canada.  Each  issues  notes  of  as  low  a  value  as  5s 
currency,  or  4s.  sterHng;  and  a  note  of  thi.  kind  is 
popukrly  equivalent  to  an  Amcrieaa  doUar.  Tbl 
mamtenance  of  what  is  termed  currency  in  the  present 
advanced  state  of  things,  is  not  ver^  intelli^k  to 
traveUers  from  the  olu  con.ur^.  On/might  sS  some 
meaning  in  the  denomination,  if  there  was  fcorsi^! 
mgly  depreciated  coinage  m  circulation.  But  except- 
Ame  tn    l"^,       'l^  '  '  ""^"^'^  *»'  ""'J  oecasionany 

snln  nf  ^fll'  '"°°'^-     ^y  ="  "■•''"^  shilling  is 
spoken  of  as  iifteenpence,  or  how  storekeepers  in  asldns 
sevenpcnce-halipenny  for  an  article,  shouS  m"an  sk^ 
pence  ,s  a  mystery  in  finance  not  easily  explained.     In 
my  Ignorance,  I  ventured  respectftdly  to  suggest  to  a 
respectable  colonist,  that  I  thought  it  would  only  be 
reasonable  to  call  a  shilling  a  shUling,  and  chaSg/the 
nominal  prices  of  things  accordingly'    But  I  fe!t   by 
the  repy,  that  I  had  trodden  on  dangerous  ^Ld 

IS  considered  equivalent  (strictly)  to  ^1,  4s.  4d    cm-! 
rency  cou^d  not,  it  seems,  bear  criticism.   Perhaps,  then 

and  other  British  American  provinces,  the  propriety  of 
assimilating  their  money. reckoning  to  the  sterW 
standard    or  of  adopting  the  simpk  dollar  and  cenf 

purposes,  would  be  more  convenient 

Conducted,  first  through  several  banks  of  an  imposins 
appearance,  and  then  visiting  some  large  librar  e?r^S 
ing-rooms,  and  other  public  institutions,  I  ZnlTl 
^ejant  drive  out  of  to.^  towards  the  Mountair-*: 
road  m  a  northerly  direction  taking  us  amidst  lines  of 


68 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AIIERICA. 


detached  villas  embowered  in  gardens  and  flower-plots. 
As  every  stranger  in  London  goes  to  see  St  Paul's,  so 
all  who  visit  Montreal  require  to  see  the  Mountain. 
Of  this  mountain,  the  inhabitants  are  not  a  little  proud ; 
and  they  have  some  reason  for  being  so.  The  hill, 
which  forms  a  kind  of  background  to  Montreal,  shelter- 
ing it  most  agreeably  from  the  north,  is  covered  with 
a  profusion  of  orchards,  gardens,  and  masses  of  forest 
trees,  and  having  the  lower  part  disposed  in  small  farms 
and  villa  enclosures.  Some  years  ago,  the  hill  and 
countr}^  beyond  were  scarcely  approachable  on  account 
of  the  state  of  the  roads ;  but  now  the  thoroughfares  are 
kept  in  the  best  order  by  revenues  dra^vn  from  toU-bars. 
The  establishment  of  these  bars  by  an  ordinance  of  Lord 
Sydenham,  was  loudly  exclaimed  against  by  the  rural 
habitans,  who,  in  coming  to  market,  greatly  preferred 
jolts  to  the  dispensing-  of  coppers ;  but  I  was  told  that 
the  tide  of  opinion  against  toll-paying  had  lately  under- 
gone a  considerable  change  among  these  ancient  settlers ; 
as  they  had  discovered  by  the  saving  of  time  and  other 
advantages,  that  the  money  they  paid  to  the  toU-keeper 
was  by  no  means  thrown  away. 

By  one  of  these  improved  roads,  carried  at  a  moderate 
height,  we  are  enabled  to  make  a  circuit  of  the  whole 
mountain,  and  obtain  some  remarkably  fine  views  over 
the  surrounding  country.  The  scene  on  the  northern 
side  embraces  an  ex^-ensive  tract  of  land,  laid  out  in 
farms,  and  dotted  over  with  villages,  distmguishable  by 
their  churches  with  tin-covered  steeples.  From  the 
summit,  the  eye  is  able  to  trace  out,  in  the  generally 
level  country,  the  outlines  of  the  Isle  of  Montreal,  and 
the  Isle  Jesu  beyond  it  on  the  north,  as  well  as  the 
valley  of  the  Ottawa.  The  river  Ottawa,  coming  out 
of  a  region  rich  in  timber,  and  abounding  in  pictu- 
resque scenery,  joins  the  St  Lawrence  in  a  somewhat 
broken  manner,  by  parting  into  separate  branches,  and 


k 


MONTREAL. 


69 


intersecting  the  land  so  as  to  form  the  two  above-men- 
tioned  islands.    The  Isle  of  Montreal,  about  thirty  miles 
in  length,  and  celebrated  for  its  beauty  and  fertility,  was 
ongmally  gifted  by  the  king  of  France  to  the  sem^naiy 
of  St  Sulpice,  to  which  body  the  superiority  still  princi- 
pally belongs,  and  is  a  source  of  large  annual  income. 
Along  the  southern  slopes  of  the  mountain,  and  favom-ed 
by  the  high  temperatm-e  in  summer,  grow  those  fine 
varieties  of  apples-the  Fameuse,  Pomme  Gris,  and 
others-which  are  the  admiration  of  all  strangers.    The 
view  from  the  higher  parts  of  the  hiU  on  the  south 

ihX^'"",  tT'^  ^""^  '^™^^  ^"  *^^^  foreground,  with 
he  broad  St  La^nce  and  its  shipping,  and  the  exten- 
sive  tract  of  country  beyond,  which  includes  the  pleasant 
valley  of  the  Eichlieu.  ^ 

The  society  in  Montreal  which  I  had  an  opportunity 
of  becommg  acquainted  with,  did  not  differ  from  what 
one  sees  m  a  respectable  English  town;  and  from  all 
I  could  earn  it  appeared  that  notwithstanding  many 
bitter  pohtical  and  religious  animosities,  the  city  in  its 
vanous  concerns  was  making  signal  progress.      The 

of  n^l     1   ^ i  f '"'"''^  *°  "^"^*  ^^^000^  ^^d  trade 
01  all  kinds  had  been  expended  in  the  current  year.    The 

completion  of  the  Atlantic  and  St  Lawrence  Railway 

by  opemng  up  a  ready  means  of  transit  to  Portland  and 

iioston,  had  already  given  an  impetus  to  improvemert  • 

and  as  steamers  will  now  ply  direct  to  and  from  En^' 

confiden  ly  anticipated.  On  many  accounts,  therefore, 
Montreal  possesses  an  animation  and  hopefulness  which 
could  scarce  y  have  been  predicated  from  its  past  histoir 
or  the  mixed  and  antagonistic  materials  in  its  populZ 
^^on  Nor  axe  the  mterests  of  practical  science  and 
b^erature  forgotten.  A  museum  of  the  minerals,  united 
with  a  geological  survey  of  the  province,  attests  the 
attention  paid  to  an  important  branch  of  knowledge. 


70 


THINGS  AS  TIIEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


A  few  weeks  before  my  visit,  there  liad  been  a  largo 
exhibition  of  improved  ;i^iK(il^  '.al  implements  and 
livestock.  Ijattcrly,  tVcrc  hw  been  added  to  tlie 
cdneational  institntions  a  handsomely  endowed  estab- 
lishment called  the  M'Gill  CoUej^e — a  kind  of  university 
for  the  higher  branches  of  learning,  and  in  which  no 
tests  arc  exacted.  A  High  School,  of  earlier  oriyin,  has, 
I  am  told,  been  added  to  it  as  a  preparatory  depart- 
ment. The  French  Roman  Catholic  body  also  own 
some  cducationjd  establishments  of  good  reputation. 
So  far,  there  is  nothing  to  complain  of  in  the  city ;  but 
in  Lower  Canada  generally,  the  state  of  education  is  on 
a  lamental)ly  imperfect  footing ;  for  although  there  is  a 
school  law  applicable  to  the  province,  such  is  the  general 
ignorance  of  letters  that  many  local  commissioners  of 
echication  are  said  to  be  unable  to  read  or  write ;  and 
as  the  rating  for  schools  is  under  popular  control,  the 
habitans  find  it  more  agreeable  to  let  their  children 
grow  up  nninstructed  than  vote  means  for  their  educa- 
tion. On  advancing  into  Western  Canada,  which  is 
settled  by  a  purely  English  and  Scotch  population,  the 
state  of  affairs  is  found  to  be  very  different. 

As  regards  the  actual  appearance  and  character  of 
the  original  French  settlers  in  the  rural  districts,  or 
habitans,  as  they  are  ordinarily  called,  I  naturally  felt 
some  degree  of  curiosity ;  and  was  projecting  an  excur- 
sion into  the  coimtry,  when  I  was  cordially  invited  to 
pay  a  visit  to  the  extensive  and  interesting  seignory 
of  Major  T.  E.  Campbell,  situated  in  the  valley  of  the 
Richlieu,  about  nineteen  miles  south  from  Montreal. 
The  account  of  this  Adsit  may  perhaps  give  an  idea  of 
riu-al  life  in  tliis  part  of  Canada,  which  is  essentially 
different  from  what  prevails  in  the  western  portion  of 
the  province. 

It  is  unnecessary  for  me  to  enter  into  any  details 
respecting  the  settlement  of  Lower  Canada  by  the 


f 


MONTREAL. 


71 


French,   and   of  the  final   cession   of  the  conntry  to 
England  in  17G3.     It  is  enough  to  know  tliat  Great 
Britain  agreed,  by  treaty,  to  respect  the  religions  and  other 
institutions  introduced  by  France;   and  these  accord- 
ingly remain,  with  some  modifications,  till  the  present 
day.     One  of  the  social  arrangements  so  preserved,  was 
the  method  of  liolding  land  by  feudal  tenure.     A  num- 
ber of  distniguished  personages  called  seigneurs  or  lords, 
to  whom  large  tracts  of  land  had  been  gi-anted,  were 
allowed  to  partition  their  property  among  vassals,  who 
by  purchase  at  entry,  and  incuiTing  certain  obligations, 
obtained  the  rights  of  perpetual  heritage.     These  tracts 
of  land  are  known   as   seignories,  each  retaining  the 
namo  of  the  seigneur  to  whom  it  originally  belonged. 
The   vassal-tenants   are   technically   called   censitaires. 
About  thirty  years  after  the  cession  of  Canada,  the 
rights  of  the  seigneurs  were  abridged :  they  no  longer 
included  any  species  of  jurisdiction  j  and,  except  where 
the  old  seignories  prevailed,  the  principle  of  freehold 
tenure  was  introduced.     In  the  present  day,  the  seigno- 
rial  claims  are  not  by  any  means  oppressive,  although 
still  objectionable  as  being  at  variance  with  modem 
notions   and  practices.     Not   many   seigneurs,   I   was 
informed,  live  habitually  on  their  domains,  or  charge 
themselves  with  the  personal  supervision  of  their  vassals. 
The  management,  in  various  instances,  is  left  to  local 
agents ;  and  on  this  account  I  felt  some  satisfaction  in 
visiting  a  seignory  with  a  proprietor  resident,  like  a  lord 
of  the  olden  time,  in  the  midst  of  his  retainers. 

'  You  will  take  the  steamer  at  nine  o'clock  for 
Longeuil,'  said  Major  Campbell,  in  giving  me  directions 
to  visit  his  property;  'and  there  you  will  find  a  train 
in  waiting  to  carry  you  to  St  Hilaire,  which  is  the 
station  near  to  my  place.'  At  the  hour  appointed, 
next  morning,  I  accordingly  crossed  the  St  Lawrence 
to  Longeuil,  a  distance  of  three  miles  in  a  diagonal 


79 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


direction  down  the  river,  and  found  a  train  of  cars 
ready  to  take  the  passengers  forward,  the  line  of  rpilway 
being  that  which  communicates  with  Portland  in  Maine, 
and  other  parts  of  the  United  States.  The  day  was 
dull  and  hazy,  but  clear  enough  to  shew  the  country 
around;  and  as  the  train  went  at  a  leisurely  pace,  I 
was  able  to  obtain  a  pretty  fair  view  of  the  land  and  its 
method  of  treatment. 

We  go  through  a  district  of  seignoiies,  the  first  being 
that  of  Longeuil,  which   extends   a  number  of  miles 
from  the  river.     Settled  a  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago, 
and  long  since  cleared  and  enclosed,  the  country,  as  we 
advance,  has  quite  an  old  appearance,  with  villages  and 
churches  placed  at  suitable  intervals.    The  land  is  gene- 
rally so  level,  that  the  railway  has  been  made  to  a  large 
extent  with  scarcely  any  banking  or  cutting.     Onward 
it  goes  over  fields,  enclosed  with  rail-fences,  and  entering 
the  valley  of  the  Richlieu,  crosses  the  fine  large  river  of 
that  name  by  a  long  wooden  bridge.     As  is  usual  in  all 
seignorial  districts,  the  holdings  of  the  censitaires  con- 
sist of  long  narrow  strips  of  land,  projected  from  the 
public  road.    By  this  plan,  each  farmer  has  a  convenient 
frontage  to  his  property;  and  as  dl  the  houses  aio  built 
in  a  line  on  the  respective  frontages,  the  people  enjoy 
ample  facilities  for  social  converse  and  amusement.     So 
far  this  is  pleasant;  but  as  every  pleasure  needs  to  be 
paid  for,  the  inhabitants,  in  proceeding  to  some  portions 
of  their  properties,  incur  the  penalty  of  travelling  a  long 
way  from  home  in  pursuit  of  their'rural  laboui-s.     The 
spectacle  presented  by  these  old-fashioned  farms  was 
anything  but  cheering.     The  smaU  fields,  lying  in  a 
row,  and  entered  from  each  otner,  like  a  suite  of  rooms 
in  a  French  mansion,  exhibited  a  poor  kind  of  husbandry, 
and  to  all  appearance  the  principal  crop  was  that  of  tall 
weeds  growing  on  the  foul  and  exhausted  soil.     At  one 
period,  the  district  was  known  as  the  granary  of  Canada; 


MONTREAL. 


n 


and  a  merry  place  it  then  t^ls,  m  doubt.  Now,  it  is 
birelyable  to  yield  prod  i^e  f^ir  ca  own  support;  and 
poverty,  I  fear,  is  the  gem  -ul  lo:  of  its  inhabitants. 

Thus,  moralising  on  tl  .   J,r   ^e  of  times,  we  reach 
St  Hilaire.    Here,  at  a  liandsome  station,  with  waitin«r- 
rooms  and  dep6t3  for  im-    ,   and   a  great  stack  of 
biUets  of  wood  for  the  u&c  ot  the  locomotive,  I  found 
Major   CampbeU,  and   gladly  accompanied  him  in   a 
pedestnan  excursion  over  his  grounds.     When  I  talk  of 
meeting  a  Canadian  seigneur,  I  am  perhaps  expected 
to  describe  a  spare  gentleman  in  a  queue  and  cocked- 
hat,  a  red  sash,  and  a  coat  which  might  have  been  in 
fashion  at  the  Tuileries  in  the   reign   of  Louis   XV. 
Changes,  however,  have   come   over  seigneurs  as  well 
as  other  people.   In  the  gallant  major  I  recognised  only 
a  bluff  and  sound-hearted  English  officer,  rigged  out  in 
a  shooting-jacket,  to  brave  a  threatened  drizzle,  and, 
as  is  usual  all  over  Canada,  wearing  a  pair  of  stout 
boots  up  to  the  knees,   sufficient  to  encounter  every 
variety  of  mud  and  quagmire.     How  the  major  should 
have  dropped  from   Her  Majesty^s    service  into  the 
position  he  now  occupies,  it   is  not   my  business  to 
relate.    Formerly  secretary  to  the  governor-general,  his 
taste  for  agriculture,  and  his  marriage  with  a  Canadian 
lady,  may  be  presumed  to  form  a  reason  for  having 
invested  largely  in  his  present  possessions.     However 
this  may  be,  notliing  could  have  been  more  fortunate 
for  the  habitans  of  St  Hilaire  than  to  have  obtained 
such  a  lord  of  the  manor. 

The  first  thing  done  was  to  conduct  me  to  the  chdteau 
which  we  reached  by  a  wicket  from  the  railway  station 
and  a  pathway  leading  across  a  shrubberv  and  paddock. 
Built  of  red  brick  and  sandstone,  I  had  before  me  a 
handsome  and  recently  erected  mansion  of  large  size  in 
the  Elizabethan  style,  with  doorway  and  windows  in 
the  best  possible  taste.     Inside  was  a  capacious  haU 


I 


74 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


i 


i  f 


a 


T^^^    ■"  °^  "'"*  ™'"*  '^^"^i"?  t°  the  upper 
P^  of  the  house.     On  the  level  of  the  hall,  doors  open 

on  vanous  apartments,  ineluding  a  dining  and  drawing. 

colours  These  handsome  apartments  are  lighted  by 
plate-glass  windows,  which  overlook  a  green  lawn  that 
^pes  down  to  the  banks  of  the  BieUieu,  rou'  a 
hundred  yards  aistant.  The  view  of  the  p4id  river 
resembhng  the  Thames  at  Fulham,  with  small  saUW 
vessels  passmg  and  repassing,  and  a  village  and  ehureh 
spu.e  on  the  opposite  shore,  adds  mneh  to  the  amen^rof 
h«  prmeely  dweUing.  On  looking  around,  we  feel  as 
a  visitmg  a  nobleman's  establishment  in  England  or 
France,  and  can  hardly  realise  the  idea  of  being  in  the 
heart  of  a  eount,7  „hieh,  o„,y  ^  ,  ^^^  ^  « 

was  reclaimed  iiom   the  primeval  wilderness.    J  a 
short  distance  from  the  chteau  has  been  erected  a  spa- 
cious  suite  of  farm-offlces  adapted  for  the  highest-clL 
husbandly,  and  used  i,  connection  with  a  model-farm 
of    150  acres,   which  Major  Campbell  keeps  in  his 
own  hands.     What  interested  me  more  than  anything 
else  m  the  chateau,  was  an  apartment  occupied  as  I 
busmess-room.     Here,  at  a  table  covered  with  papers 
sat  an  aged  Canadian,  dressed  in  a  blue  coat  of  antique 
cut,  with  white  metal  buttons-a  kind  of  Owen  in  the 
W  of  Osbaldistone  &  Co.-aad  his  duties  I  Ler! 
stood  to  cmisist  in  everlastingly  poring  over  a  variety 
of  ehartcr-books  and  ledgers,  and  keeping  the  accounts 
of  the  seignory.     This  ancient  worthy  spoke  nothing 
but  Irench,  and  the  whole  transactions  of  the  concert 
are  conducted  in  that  language. 

■There  seems  to  be  a  great  deal  of  writing  connected 
with  the  property,'  I  observed  to  the  major.  '  Indeed 
there  is,'  he  replied.  'Keeping  the  accounts  of  a 
seignory  ,s  a  business  in  itself:  I  will  shew  you  the 
nature  of  our  affairs.'     So  saying,  several  booL  were 


MONTREAL. 


75 


a 


obligingly  brought  into  tlie  dining-room,  and  I  set  to 
work  to  learn  the  nature  of  their  multifarious  detaUs, 
assisted  by  the  explanations  of  my  kind  entertainer. 

One  of  the  books,  resembling  a  great  broad  ledger 
consisted  of  pages  partly  covered  with  print  in  French' 
with  open  spaces  left  for  writing.     The  whole  formed 
a  narration  of  the  various  holdings  of  the  vassals,  mth 
their  dates  of  entry,  transfers,  extent  of  tenure,  and 
annual  quit-rents.     The  quantity  of  land  embraced  in 
the  seignory,  I  was  infoi-med,  is  about  33,000   acres, 
divided  amon^    771    censitaires.      Of  these,   however 
only  693  are  farmers ;  the  remainder  being  occupants 
of  houses,  orchards,  or  other  small  possessions.     The 
annual  rent  or  feu^duty  paid  for  the  land  is  in  some 
mstances  not  more  than  twopence  an  acre.     But  the 
other  obligations  are  more  onerous.     At  every  sale  of 
a  tenure,  the  landlord  can  demand  a  fine  of  a  twelfth  of 
the  purchase-money;  or  it  is  in  his  option  to  take  the 
land  Et  the  price  offered  for  it.      Duties  are  likewise 
charged  on  successions.   AU  the  vassals  are  also  obHged 
to  have  their  grinding  done  at  the  mill  of  the  seigneur, 
who,  on  liis  part,  is  bound  to  have  mills  kept  in  repair 
for  their  use.    It  may  easily  be  supposed  that  the  finan- 
cial and  other  operations  of  such  an  extensive  concern 
are   exceedingly   complicated  and  embarrassing;    and 
nothing  but  the  skiU  of  a  diplomatist  and  the  science 
of  an  arithmetician  could  grapple  ^vith  them.     Besides 
the  documents  connected  with  these  transactions.  Major 
CampbeU  shewed  me  the  books  he  keeps  in  relation  to 
the  farm  in  his  own  management.     Here  were  seen  the 
accomits  of  expenditure  on  labour  and  other  matters 
with  an  entry  of  every  sale  of  produce,  down  to  the 
minutest  suras  received  for  dairy  articles,  according  to 
the  best  methods  of  farm  book-keeping  in  England;  so 
that,  at  the   shortest  notice,  a  complete  balance-sheet 
could  be  exhibited. 


76 


III     I 


v''\ 


i»i 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ABE  IN  AMEKICA. 


I  afterwards  stroUed  out  with  Major  Campbe]!  over 
some  of  the  lands  of  his  tenants,  which,  in  spite  of  all 
tis  remonstrances  and  advice,  are  farmed  according  to 
rfd  notions,  and  do  not  materially  differ  in  appearance 
from  what  IS  observable  m  adjoining  properties     This  I 
expected.     The  ignorant  cannot  apprehend  abstractions. 
They  reqmre  to  see  a  thing  done  in  order  to  give  it 
Ml  credence      Only  a  few  of  the  farmers  had  come 
the  length  of  believing  in  the  efficacy  of  the  seigneurs 
operations,    as  regards  draining,   manming,   and  the 
proper  rotation  of  crops.     Accustomed  to  be  satisfied 
with  a  small  retm^  for  their  expenditure  and  labom^ 

on  tblT  r*T'*'^  !"  '''  '^^  '"'Se  ciops  produced 
on  the  lands  iarmed  by  Major  Campbell,  and  were 

beginmng  cautiously  to  follow  his  example 

h^VT"  ,t™!"'*'  °°  *■?«  P^™«  J^ig'^-y.  which 
here  u„.deis  the  nver;  and  in  the  compass  of  a  mile 

from  the  gateway  of  the  chateau,  which  blocks  up  the 

end  of  the  road    I  had  an  opportunity  of  visiting  the 

houses  of  several  censitaires;   taking  a  look  into  the 

vUlage  church ;  examining  a  girls'  school,  which,  super- 

hshed  by  the  lady  of  the  seigneur;   and,  finally,   of 
paying  my  respects   to   the   cur^   a   mild,   scholV 

^  tST'T''  "^f  ''™"'  *"  ^  ^"^'y  '""^  ™»^io>i 
m  the  midst  of  a  garden  overlooking  the  Richlieu. 

nei  in  tb^'  \   '"'\"'''^'  ™'  .^""'  ""'^  ^^-^^  ™  "  chilli- 
ness in  the  atmosphere,  yet  the  doors  of  the  houses  were 

generally  open,  and  in  the  veranda,  in  front  of  onTof 

wTL^.t/TT-™"';'"?  "  '""^  ^^''  ^"-"^  "'"'l««'e 
was  engaged  at  his   side  m   some  kind  of  knitting. 

The   houses   we  visited  were   sci-upniously  dean    and 

provided  with  the  heavy  kind  of  old  itonitL  common 

c^ae  down   as  heirlooms  from  past   generations.     I 
need  hardly  say  that  the  seigneui.  was  received  with 


MONTREAL. 


77 


politeness  and  deference,  but  with  none  of  the  obse- 
quiousness observable  among  certain  classes  of  tenantry 
in  the  old  country.  A  lively  conversation  was  com- 
menced in  French— the  people,  for  miles  around,  being 
totally  Ignorant  of  English— and  it  turned  on  the  state 
of  rural  affairs.  Major  Campbell  strongly  represented 
the  advantages  of  subscribing  for  and  reading  a  cheap 
agricultural  journal,  but  without  avail.  It  was  pretty 
evident  that  the  good  censitaires  had  no  faith  in 
literatui-e,  nor  would  part  with  a  single  half-penny  for 
aU  the  information  that  could  be  offered  them. 

Backward  as  things  are  seen  to  be,  the  enterprising 
seigneur  has  sanguine  hopes  of  effecting  a  considerable 
unprovement  in  the  habits  of  the  people.    He  is  at  least 
untiring  m  his  benevolent  efforts,  and  deserves  a  more 
genial  field   of   operation.      One   of  his   branches   of 
revenue  is  from  the  manufacture  of  sugar  from  the  sap 
of  the  maple-trees,  which  ornament,  ^nth  their  glowing 
foliage,  the  pictm-esque   and   isolated  hill   of  Beloeil 
situated  withj  1  a  short  distance  of  his   chateau.     In 
summer,  parties  of  pleasure  from  Montreal  visit  this 
lofty  mountain,  and  climb  by  a  steep  and  winding  path 
to  the  top,  from  which  there  is  a  most  extensive  pros- 
pect over  the  adjacent  country.     Pious  devotees  also 
make   a  pilgrimage  to  the  hill,   on  which  there  are 
stations  where  certain  appointed  prayers  are  repeated. 
At  the  base  of  the  ascent  is  a  smaU  and  beautifid  lak- 
whence  water  is  constar  vV  lowing  to  turn  the  miiJs  of 
the  seignory. 

Having  spent  a  day  agreeably,  I  bade  adieu  to 
Major  CampbeU,  n.d  by  an  evening  train  retariied  to 
Montreal.  It  req  .'.od  no  depth  of  reflection  to  perceive 
that  the  system  of  seignorage,  of  which  I  had  seen  a 
lavourable  specimen,  was  entirely  out  of  date  in  the 
present  day,  and  that,  for  the  sake  of  general  advance- 
ment, It  could  not  be  too  soon  abolished.     The  subject 


78 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


indeed,  has  already  engaged  the  consideration  of  the 

constitutmg  them  a  redeemable  mortgare  on  +1,p  v» 
specfve  tennres,  will,  at  no  distant  d^%°lttot 
W.     Major  Campbell  stated  that  he  w;X  hav^^^ 

plibrthrtr'  ^™\^?-"'"«  -ij-t-nt;  'rit" 

possible  that  the  opposition  to  a  remedy  of  this  natiir^ 

ing  and  intelligent  men  will  not,  to  an7w  St' 
settle  m  a  neighbonrhood  in  which  the  FrenSn^^r™ 
and  usages  prevail.     Protestants  it  is  true   ».i^     T 

lar  ttima«r  f  ^™"g^"'«''t«  ^^  obnoxious  in  popn- 
estima,tion.  In  some  quarters  of  the  counlrv  La 
^ore  particnh^ly  in  the  eastern  townships,  vT^^'on"' 
derable  advances  a«,  made  in  agricdtnri  ianalem^ 
and  the  progress  of  the  colony  in  trade  sliinX  I^^' 
intei^ommunieation,  is  to  be'  men«o:;d  X  m"h 
satisfaction.  The  state  of  affaii^s,  however,  iT  L  ^ 
districts  generally,  through  the    leadening  iXZe 

h    t   uTtilX"'!'"'' *°'  '  ""'  '"'"  -editabb.    In 
snoit,  untU  the  seignones  are  broken  up    as  a  fir^f 

and  essential  step  to  the  introduction  rf  the  EnlTh 

Canada,  so  far  as  I  can  see,  must  remain  an  alien  and 
unknown  eount^'  to  the  mass  of  British  eXants 
who  pour  m  a  ceaseless  stream  across  the  Atlantic 


CHAPTER    V. 


QUEBEC. 

Having  spent  a  few  days  in  Montreal  and  its  neigh- 
bourhood, I  prepared  to  make  a  short  visit  to  Quebec 
A  communication  by  railway  between  these  cities,  as 
1  shaU  have  occasion  to  explain,  wiU  soon  be  effected 
by  the  extension  of  a  branch  from  the  Atlantic  and  St 
Lawrence  hne.  Meanwhile,  the  only  avaUable  inter- 
course  is  by  ^team-ves^els  on  the  river,  one  of  which 
departs  every  evening  from  Quebec,  and  another  from 
Montreal;  the  passage  up  as  ^yell  as  down  being  by 

Montreal  is  130  miles  above  Quebec,  and  this  dis- 
tance IS  performed  hy  the   steamers  in  twelve  hours 
descendmg,  and  fifteen  to  sixteen  hours,  ascending,  the 
St  Lawrence ;   though,  when  fogs   occur,  the  t^me  in 
each  case  may  be  considerably  extended.      Owing  to 
these  perplexing  fogs,   as  well  as  sunken  rocks  and 
^her  dangers,   serious   accidents   occasionally  happen. 
1    \t-        .  ^^^-^P^^ad  reputation  for  disasters  than 
the  Mississippi,   the   St   La^vrence   yet  possesses    an 
unfortunate     aptitude    for    destroying    the    steamers 
which  trust  themselves  upon  it.      During  my  stay  in 
the  country,  two  vessels   of  this  kind  were   wrecked 
between  Quebec  and  Montreal. 

Trusting  that  I  might  escape  any  such  misfortune, 
I  one  evening  went  on  board  a  steamer  at  Montreal 
said  to  be  one  of  the  best  on  the  station;  and  along 


80 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ABE  IN  AMERICA. 


iU^l^r^^l  ^'^'^''''  ^^'  °ff  °°  -  ™We  down 
tbe  nver     Darkness  soon  coming  on    we  ha,l  1,-trt! 

opportunity  of  seeing  the  distantVnks    whth   W 

guishable  from  the  elrflood  of  tl ritT  "'*'- 
J'urther  still,  on  the  sonth  sho^  ^he  Eieh.rfaUs 
mto  the  nver;  but  the  to™  of  Sorrel  at  tht  pot 
and  various  other  plaees  of  some  note,  ineludin '  S "  ' 
Rivers,  ^-e  passed  in  the  dark,  and  we  only  he^r  ftei^ 
n^^eswhen  the  vessel  stops  at  them  to  pnf  ptTen^ 

o'ioeirwL*:-^''^"'  "  r'^  "°"™g'  *"«*  «even 
o  ciocte,  when,  nsmg  from  bed  and  going  to  the  ,i;n  „f 

w  tW  f :  '?  'r"^  f  "^  '•PP^^-^h^d  QuebeeVand 

hltw!  "^  explanation,  I  knew  at  a  glanee 

that  we  were  passing  the  seene  of  Wolfe's  celetoM 

the  lofty  chffs  of  Cape  Diamond,  on  whose  sLmit  tl! 
0%  has  been  built-bringing  EhrenhSteT  „n  he 
Elune  with  its  towers  and  battlements,  to  reiSm  We 

hir    T     f  °"'' I^^"^  ^th  its  lively  viUage  and  ferrv- 

keel^'  f!  r  .  r  "  *7"  """l"^  •''""e'"^'.  the  larger 
keeping  to  the  left  and  the  smaller  to  the  right  Jlh 
the  high  woody  isle  of  Orleans  between.         ^    ' 
There  was  little  time  to  take  note  of  all  this      The 

be  r«if  °V"  ""T  "'  *<=  ^''"^Slmg  and  bnj UnA 
Wow  the  city,  and  m  a  few  minntes  we  walked  ashore 


QUEBEC. 

on  a  wooden  qu^y,  in  the  midst  of  porters  and  cabmen 
Dnnng  by  wmdmg  narrow  streets;  environed  by  ^b 
stantial  stone-hon.es,  towards  the  higher  rerions  I 
eould  see  that  Qnebec  is  a  curiouB  old  city  wift  T;. 
rous  trades  connected  ,vith  shipping  in  its'^ior*  s^Z!" 
and  ha™g  a  strong  mixture  rf  th'e  miUtarH^d  ISe' 
siastical  character  m  its  umjer  aurl  mo.o  /'^  ^^cie- 
di^ion  The  street  which  f^cctcdTa  ZT^ 
to  a  hotel,  was  so  steep,  that  I  feared  fh^  r.^    I  ^ 

and  sole  of  tl,  ?™  "J""'^'  ''^''^  *«  °«^ket 

of  Its  Enghsh  and  Scotch  inhabitants.     EveS Tf 
course,  is  acquainted  mth  the  fact  that  thtr^- 
parliament  was,  a  few  years  a'nl!       7    Canadian 
place  of  meeting    n  MoZd^    Aft  /"^  °^  '*' 

itself  in  a  handsole  buUdwt'  of^rf /'  '^"^8 
tunately,  ,een  just  burned  r^ftfS;  '[^^  ^^ 
slnft  for  temporary  accommodation.   Non^  rfthe  luhl  ! 

^"S  '::f:?f-reirrrt  i^^^ 

^^C^T'  """^  ''-  -neralled^l'^oS 

=^Si:rc^sS1nr.---- 

mind    ba'cirt„''t"''™'  '"  ""'  ^^^*  ^™»*'  throw  our 

Breton^^:::d\tLf  S-^LSrh"^"^  '"  ^^''^ 
seizing  on  the  whole  of  S  da  •  L  "17^'''™  ^'' 
severe  e.,.ditio..  are  despa^ht 'totjenttaSt 


* 


88 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


different  quarters;  the  principal  movements,  however, 
being  the  approach  of  Lord  Amherst  by  way  of  Albany 
and  Ticonderoga,  and  that  of  Major-General  James 
Wolfe,  a  young  and  promising  soldier,  by  the  St  Law- 
rence. In  the  month  of  June,  a  fleet  bears  Wolfe  and 
a  small  but  select  army  up  this  great  river,  and  after 
a  tedious  voyage,  it  comes  in  sight  of  Quebec  and 
its  exterior  defences,  held  by  Montcalm  and  an  army 
of  13,000  men.  Landing,  and  forming  an  encamp- 
ment on  the  Isle  of  Orleans,  Wolfe  has  presented  to 
him  an  imposing  spectacle.  Opposite,  on  the  north 
shore,  from  the  fortress  of  Quebec  to  the  falls  of  the 
Montmorenci,  along  a  sloping  ground  several  miles  in 
length,  he  sees  a  series  of  intrenchmeuts  bristling  with 
cannon;  below  the  fortress  on  the  east,  there  is  the 
river  St  Charles,  a  seemingly  weak  point  in  the  line, 
but  its  bridge  is  strongly  guarded,  and  the  only  place 
for  an  attack  is  apparently  at  the  Montmorenci.  So,  at 
least,  thought  Wolfe ;  not  correctly,  for  he  spent  nearly 
three  months  in  various  deadly  but  bootless  encounters 
at  this  selected  spot.  It  was  only  after  these  tedious 
discomfitures,  and  much  mental  and  bodily  suffering, 
that  he  resolved  on  the  stratagem  of  sailing  up  the 
river,  as  if  going  on  a  distant  expedition ;  at  the  same 
time  leaving  a  party  to  make  a  feint  of  again  attacking 
the  Montmorenci  outposts.  This  famous  movement 
up  the  river  took  place  on  a  starlight  night  in  autumn. 
Early  next  morning — ^the  memorable  13th  of  September 
1759 — an  horn*  before  dawn,  the  vessels  drop  down  with 
the  tide,  bring  to  at  a  point  previously  fixed  on,  now 
celebrated  as  Wolfe's  Cove ;  and  there  the  landing  is 
silently  effected.  The  different  regiments  make  their 
way  by  a  rude  path  up  the  steep  bank ;  at  the  summit, 
they  seize  upon  a  redoubt  and  the  few  French  soldiers 
who  have  it  in  charge,  and  are  shortly  drawn  up  in 
order  on  the  plains  of  Abraham.    Wolfe  leads  them 


^ 


QUEBEC. 


88 


the  forfafications,  and  there,  a  few  hours  after^arTthf 

"^'4'  rllr  r ""  **  ""'-  *«  ^"'^  of™  »^ 
able  field  nfK^7  °°^  accompany  me  to  this  remark- 
able field  of  battle.    Dnving  past  the  citadel   thro,,fll. 

arbT'-r'  "^""^  "  ^"""^  '""^  environed  w^lh  3 
detached  vjlas,  we  anived  at  the  open  and  bl  Z„ 

whjeh  overhangs  the  St  Lawrence,  now  partly  rdo^ 
and  used  as  a  race-course.     The  ground  is  nT!f' 

ae  public  road,  and  turn  in  upon  it  to  our  l4     Here 

noon    for  Mont^?  '^  ^™"''  *<!  »<"  "•'e'-  till  about 

this  quitef  an^   r  ""^  ""I":^P^^'i  ^^  any  attack  in 
,T  q^aT'ei^.  and  it  was  not  till  eleven  o'clock  tb»t  1,. 
left  has  intrenehments  and  brought  his  forces  to  tL 
high  ground  occupied  by  the  English  armr      Tt  w 
tSet""^;  '"*  t""'''  by-thf  dS-of'^fe^ 

engagementrvisiri  tt^":ti:lf  rrT"! 
changes  have  taken  place  as  I  W?L  T  ^''' 
of  battle;  but  on  the  wLr  \  '  ™  *"  '^'^^ 

what  it  ^as  a  eent,!^  '  "'/emams  pretty  much 

height,  s«:t::  u  ;Tw1  tn  °'r*"*^ 

has  been  erected,  anS  ™ded'ty  I  ^7  O^ 
^tto^r.  *-S:7\rripti„„:  -Ce^S^WoS 
attachX  the  castr!      TrT"^''"''  "'  ^^  S-^en 

A  r  1  ^r^^^^^^  governor-general,  in  1827 

hetri^rtetstLt'^-^^i-- 

expired,  has  been  removed ;  but 


84 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


■ 


within  an  enclosure  lower  down,   the  well  is  pointed 
out  from  which  water  was  brought  to  him  in  his  last 
moments.     West's  celebrated  picture  of  tlie   death  of 
Wolfe,  in  which  the  expiring  hero  is  seen  reclining  on 
the  ground  amidst  a  group  of  officers  and  attendants, 
is  generally  considered  a  faithful  representation  of  the 
scene.      Quitting  this    deeply   interesting    spot,    and 
crossing  the  field  diagonally  towards  the  St  Lawrence, 
the  visitor    reaches    the    enclosures    of   Marchmont' 
immediately  above  Wolfe's  Cove.      Here,   on  looking 
over  the  bank,  we  can  appreciate  the  natural  difficulties 
of  the  pathway  by  which  the  English  force   ascended 
from  the  landing-place   on  the   shore  beneath.      How 
far  Wolfe  was  justified  in  the  expectation  of  finding 
only  an  insignificant  force  at  this  assailable  point,  or 
whether  he  was  assured  that,  after  reaching  the  open 
plain,  Montcalm,  in  his  excess  of  gallantry,  would  have 
the  imprudence  to  leave  his  intrenchments  and  fortifi- 
cations  to   meet    him— are    questions   which  military 
men  have  freely  discussed.     Probaljly  Wolfe  reckoned 
on   circumstances  of  which  we   have   now  no  precise 
knowledge;  and  surely  his  success  in  accomplishing  a 
difficult   and   hazardous   enterprise   is   the   best  proof 
of  the  correctness  of  his  anticipations.     Viewing   his 
victory  as  an  event  which,  two  years   afterwards,   led 
to  the  surrender  of  Montreal  and  the  relinquishment 
of  Canada  to  the  British  monarchy,  what  a  lasting  and 
important  influence  it  may  be  said  to  have  had  on  the 
cause  of  social  progTess ! 

The  castle  or  citadel  of  Quebec,  to  which  I  was 
admitted  by  a  permit  from  the  proper  authority,  con- 
sists of  an  open  rocky  height,  thirty  to  forty  acres  in 
extent,  with  barracks  and  storehouses,  and  surrounded 
by  fortifications  of  great  strength,  which  are  extended 
with  various  deflexions  round  the  upper  part  of  the 
town.     Guns  are  pointed  from  embrasures  in  difierent 


QUEBEC. 


85 


was 
con- 


aU  nature  into  an  icicle '  *°  ^'^^ 

enclosed  in  5^0  ^LT"'^  '""^  '^"^  """"^i™'' 
Wood,  the  Sretof  th^  ™^°*'''^'  «P^'""='- 

and  near  tliP  «?f  t  o,  ""its  nom  Uuebec, 

cen.et:;,  tZ^r^H^Z  "'  I'''  °"^ 
finest  order  by  a  resident  SorToT"''^  '"  *i'? 
enclosure  I  went  to  ,0  tl,„    ,  *"•    /"  ^s  moumfiU 

Wilson,  the  e^tilbl.  f "'  "f  '"*'™^"'  "^  J"'''' 
vocalist   who  Td  stint     «"«»],  Wnted   Scottish 

1849.     He  was  bnld  r  [  "■"  '*   ^°'=''^''  '" 

near  the  eere 'f  the t  td "r  1  "  ^"t™"'' 
observe  that,  by  the  HnT^^f^Xtii^tf  t^t'  '° 
trymen  in  Canada,   a  tall  anrl  wT  °"°" 

has  been  erected  ;ver  1  "LI  T"  """T""* 
sweetly  on  thp  <,n„t  .i.       I  ,^  ^'^'^    ^™    s'lone 

amidst'I,:  ^:f;„''Xft  "hoTi  ^"^  ^^^'"^'='' 
S  vvooas,   and  though  Ijang  far  from 


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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-450? 


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Zi 


88 
home, 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


Mend 


thought  my  p 

in  a  scene  more  congenial  with  the  simple  lyrics  which 
he  so  happily  illustrated  and  made  so  widely  known  by 
his  powers  of  melody. 

At  the  entrance  to  the  cemetery,  Mr  Miller,  the 
superintendent,  obligingly  pointed  out  a  vault  covered 
with  turf  and  fitted  up  with  stone  shelving,  which  is 
used   as  a  temporary  receptacle  for    those  T-ho    die 
during  winter,  and  cannot  be  properly  interred  until 
frost  and  snow  have  disappeared.     The  necessity  for 
some  such  depository  of  the  cofl&ned  dead  helps  to  give 
one  a  notion  of  the  inclemency  of  a  Canadian  winter. 
But  this  is  revealed  in  other  ways.     So  deeply  does  the 
frost  penetrate  into  the  ground,  that  any  line  of  curb- 
stone, or  stone  basis  for  a  railing,  which  is  not  founded 
on  masonry  at  least  three  feet  deep,  will  be  dislodged 
by  the  frost,  and  lean  over  to  one  side  at  the  first  thaw. 
In  many  parts  of  Lower  Canada  and  New  Brunswick, 
snow  lies  on  the  ground  about  five  months  in  the  year, 
and  for  some  part  of  the  season  the  cold  is  more  intense 
than  we  can  form  any  adequate  idea  of  in  England. 
I  was  informed  that  at  Fredericton,  the  capital  of  New 
Brunswick,  so  keen  is  the  frost  during  some  nights  in 
winter,  that  sentinels  on  duty  require  to  be  changed 
every  ten  minutes.      That  there   should  be  English 
soldiers  at  all  in  this  place,  as  well  as  at  Quebec  and 
some  other  stations,  seems  to  be  an  unaccountable  piece 
of  folly;  more  particularly  as  desertions  to  the  States 
are  almost  of  daily  occurrence.     In  some  cases,  I  was 
assured,  not  only  individual  sentinels,  but  pickets  of 
a  dozen  men  fiilly  accoutred    make    off  from   their 
posts,   and  find  their  way  through  woods   and  wilds 
till  they  cross  the  frontier,  when  they  are  safe  from 
pursuit.      Only  on  rare  occasions  are  these  runaways 
captured  before  reaching  t;he  States.     In  the  course  of 
one  of  my  excursions  in  Nova  Scotia,  I  passed  on  the 


QUEBEC. 


w 


road  a  paity  of  six  deserters  who  had  been  so  recovered  • 
they  were  walkix^  handcuffed  in  j>^,  in  oh^ITf  ' 
s^geant's  guard  A  state  of  thin^  that  adx2  of  so 
mueh  demorahsat^on  as,  I  think,  of  very  questionable 

Low  as  is  the  temperature  in  Lower  Canada  durine 
wmter,  the  ehmate  is  fer  from  being  unheajthy  ^^f 
although  the  snow  hes  long  on  the  ground,  little  4tTi 
loss  IS  sustained  by  the  agricnltnTt;  foi^L  S 
weather  arrives,  n.,ture  acts  with  a  vi^ur  wW^  ^y 
be  said  to  compensate  for  the  brevity  of  summ«    and 
after  aU,  there  are  perhaps  more  reaUy  fine^s  d^Xf 
the  year  than  in  England.    Wherev^  I  weJl  sT! 
healthy  and  robust  appearance  in  the  people,  with  mlh 
^vaeity  of  manner.    The  IVeneh  Can^L'  Z]^^ 
to  marry  yomig;  and  it  is  established  as  a  CTtZ 
Me  «  better  a^ong  them  than  it  is  in  Engird    \v^t 
the  nicrease  by  births  is  1  in  33  in  EnglLd,  t  isit 

m  England  they  are  1  in  53  in  the  whole  of  Low^ 
Canada.    The  simplicity  of  the  mode  of  W  amZ 

relTw   ^^"''*''"''    '^'"'^'^''    contribntes^t^  tw! 
remarkable  aspect  of  affah^;    for  in  the  district  rf 

fjr  ^  '  ''  ""y  "°  ""^^  vmadapted  for  com- 
fortable existence.  It  is  only  matter  for  regret  Zt 
^me  ot  n.  mstitutions  are  of  a  nature  so  SU  to 

TtZ^Tr  .*"*  *^  '=°™*>7'  -  formeTl^ted 

at,  .8  not  hkely  at  present  to  receive  any  large  accession 

of  agricultural  settle™  from  Great  Britl^  " 

On  leaving  the  cemetery,  we  made  a  circuit  throu<rh 

^JZ^T'  Tf -»^S«i  farms,  .nTV^"". 
ceedcd  by  a  by-road  down  the  north  side  of  the  ridee  of 
which  Quebec  occupies  the  eastern  extremity.    Here  we 


88 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


M 


arrive  m  an  inferior  suburb  of  wooden  houses,  wbarfs, 
and  ship-building  yards,  on  the  banks  of  the  St  Charles. 
Crossing  this  river  by  a  bridge,  and  getting  upon  a  good 
macadamised  road,  we  were  now  on  the  way  to  the 
river  Montmorenci,  a  tributary  of  the  St  Lawrence,  and 
which,  with  its  rapids  and  falls,  forms  the  great  wonder 
of  this  part  of  Canada.  The  country  passed  through  is 
enclosed  and  cultivated ;  and  the  houses  of  the  small 
farmers  thickly  stud  the  sides  of  the  highway.  About 
midway,  on  our  right,  overlooking  the  St  Lawrence, 
stands  the  old  village  of  Beauport,  reminding  us  of  the 
operations  of  Montcalm,  of  which  it  was  the  centre. 
Most  of  the  cottages  we  pass  are  of  a  poor  appearance, 
with  doors  reached  by  steps,  so  that  they  may  be  level 
with  the  surface  when  the  snow  covers  the  ground  in 
winter.  On  the  side  of  the  road  has  been  erected  a 
handsome  pillar,  sm'mounted  by  a  conspicuous  gilt 
cross ;  it  is  enclosed  with  a  neat  railing,  and  provided 
with  steps  in  front  to  accommodate  kneeling  devotees. 
I  learned  that  this  object  is  commemorative  of  the 
temperance  movement,  and  here,  as  at  a  shrine, 
reclaimed  tipplers  may  piously  renew  their  vows  of 
abstinence. 

At  the  distance  of  about  seven  miles  from  Quebec, 
we  approach  the  Montmorenci;  and  clambering  over 
palings  on  our  left,  getting  across  some  mossy  gr<jund, 
and  descending  a  rough  woody  bank,  we  see  the  turbu- 
lent river  forcing  its  way  through  a  bed  composed  of 
layers  of  limestone,  the  broken  yet  regular  appearance 
of  which  resembles  a  series  of  natural  steps.  The  scene 
is  wild  and  picturesque.  In  front  and  in  the  distance, 
the  river,  which  is  seemingly  about  the  size  of  the 
Tweed,  is  seen  dashing  and  foaming  over  rocks,  and 
burying  itself  in  great  gulfs,  while  above  la  a  precipice 
overhung  with  shrubs,  and  bearing  the  marks  of  attri- 
tion thousands  of  years  old.     There  being  no  proper 


QUEBEC. 


80 


path  down  the  high  banks,  we  return  to  the  road,  and 
crossing  by  a  bridge,  gain  the  left  side  of  the  river 
Here,  on  walldng  a  short  distance,  we  have  on  our  right 
the  celebrated  faU  (  f  Montmorenci— a  very  fine  thing 
indeed,     f  its  kind;  for  the  whole  river  is  sent  at  a 
shoot  over  a  precipice  250  feet  high,  and  dissolves  into 
white  foam  and  spray  before  it  reaches  the  bottom. 
After  the  faU,  it  goes  placidly  on  its  way  between  high 
banks  to  the  St  Lawrence,  which  it  meets  at  a  right 
angle  a  few  hunch-ed  yards  distant.     A  small  portion  of 
the  water,  before  aniving  at  the  brink  of  the  precipice, 
IS  led  off  on  the  right  bank  to  turn  some  large  saw-mills' 
From  the  promontory  near  the  fall,  the  spectator  has  a 
view  of  Quebec,  the  Isle  of  Orleans,  and  the  river  for  a 
considerable  stretch  westward. 

Before  leaving  Quebec,  I  made  some  inquiries  re- 
spectmg  the  number  of  emigrants  arriving  annuaUy 
and  other  cii'cumstances  connected  with  the  progress 
of  affairs  in  this  part  of  Canada.     It  is  almost  unne- 
cessary  for  me  to  say  that,  as  a  seat  of  the  provincial 
government,  and  a  flourishing  mart  of  commerce,  Quebec 
possesses  the  usual  public   institutions,   Hterary  and 
otherwise,  pertaining  to  its  character.     For  some  time, 
its  ship-building  and  timber  trades  have  been  conducted 
on  a  large  scale,  and  on  its  quays  is  seen  aU  the  bustle 
of  a  busy  seaport.     As  the  first  port  at  which  vessels 
touch  on  ascending  the  St  Lawrence,  the  place  pos- 
sesses a  peculiar  interest  to  emigrants;   for  here  they 
usually  disembark  and  take  steamers  to  their  respective 
points  of  destination;  and  here  a  resident  emigration- 
ajent,  Mr  Buchanan,  is  appointed  to  help  them  with 
advice  and  facihtate  their  movements.     At  the  office 
of  this  useful  functionary,  near  the  quay,   they  wiU 
at  aU  times  receive  due  attention,  and  probably  see 
advertisements  for  artisans  and  labourers  of  different 
classes. 


il^ 


M 


THINGS  AS  THEY  AEE  IN  AMERICA. 


Emigrants  who  desire  to  push  on  westwards,  have 
an  opportunity  of  doing  so  every  day  by  a  steamer 
from  Quebec  to  Montreal;  then  they  can  go  on  board 
another  steamer,  which  wiU  take  them  by  canal  and 

nver  to  Kingston,  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Ontario.     Should 
they  wish  to  go  on,  a  fresh  steamer  will  carry  them  to 
Toronto,  or  to  Hamilton,  which  is  situated  at  the  head 
of  the  lake.     There  they  have  now  the  Great  Western 
Railway,  which  proceeds  right  through  the  fertile  penin- 
sula of  Canada  West  to  Detroit,  aflPordir.g  numerous 
opportumties  of  stopping  by  the  way.     Soon,  a  great 
improvement  on  these  facilities  will  be  effected.    The 
Grand  Trunk-railway  of   Canada,   one  of   the  most 
stupendous  undertakings  of  modem  times,   involving 
an  outlay  of  £9,500,000  sterling,  and  extending  its  rami- 
fications over  nearly  1200  miles,  has  already,  by  a  union 
with  the  Atlantic  and  St  Lawrence  Railway,  opened 
the  communication  betiveen  Portland  and  Longueil. 
In  1854,  a  branch  wiU  be  extended  to  Quebec,  by 
which  emigrants  will  be  taken  thence  to  Longueil  in  a 
few  hours.    The  erection  of  a  bridge  two  miles  in  length 
across  the  St  Lawrence  from  Longueil  to  Montreal;  the 
construction  at  Montreal  of  a  vast  railway-dep6t  like 
that  of  Crewe;  and  the  carrying  of  the  hne  westward 
to  Kingston,  Toronto,  and  ultimately  to  Samia,  at  the 
foot  of  Lake  Huron,  are  among  the  great  works  just 
commencing,  and  for  which  thousaads  of  hands  are 
required. 

When  this  magnificent  railway  system  is  completed, 
as  it  is  expected  to  be,  five  years  hence,  persons  arriv- 
ing at  Quebec  wiU  be  able  to  pursue  their  way  unin- 
terruptedly to  ahnost  any  quarter  in  the  western 
country;  and  when  I  add  that  ocean  steamers,  larger 
and  more  powerful  than  those  now  on  the  station,  are 
preparing  for  the  trade  between  Liverpool  and  the  St 
Lawrence  during  summer,  and  between  Liverpool  and 


Qa£B£C. 


M 


Portland  when  the  river  is  frozen  in  winter,   it  will 
be  seen  what  an  immense  effort  is  being  made  to  open 
channels  of  communication  through  the  province.     The 
Grand  Trunk  is  an  English  concern,  aided  by  guarantees 
and  bonds  of  the  Canadian  government,  and  having  an 
office  of  management  yd  Montreal.     There,  for  a  time, 
is  located  the   company's  secretary,  the  indefatigable 
Sir  Cusack  P.   Roney,   well  known  for  his   skill  in 
developing  railway  traffic  and  uniting  the  commercial 
interests  of  countries  far  separated  from  each  other.     I 
have  no  doubt  that  by  his  adroit  arrangements,  travel- 
lers and  emigrants  will  soon  get  tickets  at  the  principal 
railway  stations    in   England    to    take  them  to  the 
remotest  part  of  Canada,  if  not  to  St  Louis  on  the 
Mississippi  and  other  centres  of  intercourse  in  the 
great  West. 

Even  ou  the  present  footing  of  communication  by 
river  and  lake  steamers,  there  is  httle  to  complain  of. 
The  vessel  in  which  I  returned  to  Montreal  was  of  large 
size,  and  being  constructed  r  .d  managed  on  the  plan  of 
the  American  river-boats,  may  admit  of  a  short  descrip- 
tion.    It  might  be  described  as  a  structure  three  stories 
in  height.     Level  with  the  quay  from  which  we  step  on 
board,  we  enter  by  a  gap  into  the  after-part  of  the 
middle  story.     Towards  the  bows,  a  similar  gap  admits 
the  steerage  passengers,  and  here  also  the  freight  is 
taken  on  board.     It  will  thus  be  understood  that  the 
vessel  has  two  doorways  in  the  side— one  before  and 
auother  behind  the  paddles.     The  middle  floor  of  the 
vessel,  so  entered  from  the  various  landing-places,  is 
sectioned  off  in  three  departments.     In  front,  is  a  part 
devoted  to  emigrants  or  second-class  passengers;  the 
centre  is  for  the  freight;  and  the  latter  part,  at  the 
stem,  IS  partitioned  off  and  elegantly  ftiniished  as  a 
cabm  for  ladies.     By  wandering  among  boxes  and  bales 
ot  goods,  and  opening  doors,  we  can  go  from  one  end 


T 


I 


02 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


of  the  floor  to  the  other.    A  small  part  in  front  of  the 
ladies'  cabin  is  kept  clear  of  freight;  and  it  is  into  this 
open  space  that  we  pass  on  getting  on  board  by  the  ^ 
after-entrance.     Immediately  on  entering,  we  find  on 
the  left  hand  a  small  office  with  a  window  at  which 
tickets  are  sold,  as  at  an  English  railway-station;  and 
where,   till   the    office    is    opened,   there   is   a  crowd 
anxiously  waiting  to  have  the  first  chance  for  state- 
rooms.    The  dispenser  of  these  tickets  is  the  pm-ser; 
the  stewards  having  nothing  to  do  with  the  money- 
department.     So  much  for  the  middle  floor  of  the 
steamer;  the  only  thing  not  mentioned  being  a  small 
open-air  platform   adjoining  the  paddle-box  on  each 
side,  accessible  to  the  passengers,  and  a  favourite  lounge 
for  cigar-smokers. 

At  one  comer  of  the  partition  which  cuts  ofi"  the 
ladies'  cabin,  we  ascend  by  a  stair  to  the  upper  story. 
This  consists  entirely  of  the  saloon,  an  apartment  at 
least  a  hundred  and  fifty  feet  long,  splendidly  ftirnished 
and  decorated;  lighted  from  the  roof,  and  having  state- 
rooms along  the  sides,  each  provided  with  two  beds  and 
toUet  articles— everything  rigorously  clean  and  com- 
modious.    A  person  accustomed  to  the  river  vessels  of 
England,  would  be  startled  with  the  first  view  of  this 
magnificent  apartment.     Persian  carpets,  elegant  arm- 
chairs   and   sofas,   a   central  marble  table  on  which 
reposes  a  handsomely  bound  Bible,  cut-glass  chandeliers, 
mirrors  and  vases  of  flowers,  door-handles  of  gUt  por- 
celain or  ivory,  are  among  the  things  which  meet  the 
eye.     The  saloon  is  not  of  equal  breadth  throughout. 
About  half-way  down,  it  is  interrupted  by  an  enclosure 
for  the  engines,  and  by  a  passage  at  each  side  we  reach 
the  portion  of  the  saloon  beyond.     This  division,  which 
IS  towards  the  stem,  has  no  beds.     It  is  wider  than  the 
other  part,  and  is  provided  with  side  and  end  windows 
whence  a  view  of  the  river  is  obtained.     In  the  centre 


QUEBEC. 


9e 


of  It  js  a   stove,  where  the  single  gentlemen  chiefly 
congregate;  a  smaU  outer  poop  at  the  extremity,  beinff 
only  used  in  fine  weather.     The  most  curious  thing 
about  the  after  portion  of  the  saloon  is  a  barber^s  shop 
lighted  from  above,  and  adjoining  the  enclosure  for  the 
engines.     Here,  on  looking  through  a  curtained  glass- 
door,  we  observe  a  toilet-table,  laid  out  with  all  proper 
apparatus  for  shaving  and  hair-dressing;  a  luxurious 
chair,  with  a  high  rest  for  the  feet;  and,  seated  in  a 
corner,  is  seen  a  negro  operator,  spelling  over  a  news- 
paper,  and  patiently  waiting  for  custom.    No  American 
steamer  of  a  high  class  is  unprovided  with  an  estab- 
hshment  of  this  kind  for  the  accommodation  of  the 
passengers,  who,  it  may  be  said,  would  no  more  think 
of  doing  without  a  barber  than  without  a  cook. 

It  wiU  be  noticed  from  these  arrange  nents,  that  the 
whole  vessel,  from  end  to  end  and  side  to  side,  with  the 
exception  of  a  smaU  place  at  the  stern  and  at  the 
paddle-boxes,  is  covered  in.     There  is  no  deck,  no  roof 
to  which  you  are  admitted.     On  the  top,  nothing  is 
^sible  but  the  chimney,  the  beam  of  the  engine,  and 
the  wheel-house  for  the  steersman.     The  saloo    is  the 
universal  lounge.     There  most  people  while  away  the 
time,  tiU  summoned  to  their  meals.     No  eating  or 
drmkmg  is  carried  on  in  the  saloon.     It  is  a  drawing 
not  a  dining  room.     Meals  are  taken  in  the  lowest 
story  of  the  vessel,  the  access  to  which  is  by  a  stair 
descending  from  the  middle  floor,  near  the  doorway  to 
the  ladies'  cabin.     On  gaining  this  proftmdity,  which  is 
necessarily  lighted  with  candles,  we  find  it  to  be  a 
spacious  apartment,  with  two  long  tables,  two  rows  of 
open  beds,  one  above  another,  along  the  sides,  and  at 
the  further  extremity,  a  bar  for  the  sale  of  liquors,  and 
a  recess  for  washing.    The  kitchen  is  somewhere  in  this 
quarter,  but  not  visible  to  the  passengers. 
Two  hours  after  coming  on  board  the  vessel,  of  which 


04 


THINGS  AS  TEEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


li    \ 


I  have  here  presented  a  picture  in  outline,  the  steward's 
bell  sounded  for  tea,  or  supper  as  it  is  called  in  America, 
and  down  went  a  crowd  from  the  saloon  towards  the 
eaiing-apartment,  which,  however,  none  was  allowed  to 
enter  till  the  ladies  had  come  from  their  cabin,  and 
taken  their  peats.     As  usual,  there  was  a  profusion  of 
edibles;  and  here,  again,  I  looked  unsuccessfully  for 
specimens  of  fast  eating,  which,  for  the  amusement 
of  the  thing,  I  should  have  been  glad  to  see.    The 
company  was  miscellaneous.      Some  were  speaking  in 
French,  and  some  in  English;  but  the  bulk  partook  of 
their  tea  in  silence,  and  dropped  off  one  by  one  up 
stairs  to  the  saloon.     Wandering  over  the  vessel  some 
time  afterwards,   I  thought  of  looking  in  upon  the 
department  on  the  middle  floor  appropriated  to  the 
humbler  class  of  emigrants.    An  unpleasant  spectacle 
presented  itself:  Men,  women,  children,  bedding,  boxes, 
and  tin  kettles,  all  jumbled  together;  a  bar  about  the 
size  of  a  sentry-box  for  the  sale  of  drams;  and  as  a 
natural  result  of  this  last-mentioned  particular,  a  fight 
among  several  men,  and  all  sorts  of  disagreeable  noises. 
I  was  fain  to  retreat  from  the  apartment,  pitying  the 
imfortunate  beings  who  were  condemned  to  pass  a 
night  within  its  fetid  precincts.     The  sale  of  liquors  in 
these  situations  is  surely  highly  objectionable,  and  the 
attention  of  the  provincial  legislature  cannot  be  too 
soon  called  to  the  subject. 

In  those  parts  of  the  vessel  occupied  by  the  first-class 
passengers,  everything  went  on  with  the  decorum  of  a 
drawing-room,  and  strangely  in  contrast  to  the  scene  I 
had  been  witnessing.  At  ten  o'clock,  the  saloon  was 
nearly  deserted;  those  who  had  been  so  fortunate  as  to 
secure  state-rooms  had  turned  in ;  and  those  who  had 
not,  went  off  to  the  beds  in  the  eating-apartment. 
Here  I  had  made  sure  of  a  berth,  by  putting  my  plaid 
in  possession  as  soon  as  I  came  on  board.     I  could  not 


QUEBEC.  g- 

but  admire  the  method  for  secluding  these  exposed  beds. 
A  brass  framework  over  the  top  is  drawn  forward,  and 
the  ci^ams  attached  to  it  being  closed,  the  beds,  and 
^  two  chairs  in  front,  are  completely  screened  from 
observation.     I  have  somewhere  seen  the  sleeping  and 
toilet  accommodation  of  American  river-boaf.  held  up 
to  ndicule;  but  my  experience  in  this  and  other  vessels 
has  left  nothmg  to  be  said  in  such  a  spirit.    On  the 
present  occasion,  my  bed  was  at  least  equal  in  com- 
mojou^ness  to  that  which  I  had  been  favoured  with 
m  the  Cunard  steamer.    It  will  also  be  satisfactory  to 
know,  that  m  the  morning  there  was  no  want  of  reason- 
ably  good  basins  and  clean  towels;  and  that  every  man 
was  turned  out  with  boots  which  would  have  done  no 
discredit  to  Day  and  Martin.     With  these  comforts- 
laying  the  luxuries  of  private  state-rooms  out  of  the 
question-and  a  substantial  breakfast  which  made  its 

EeT''^  ^  ^""^  '''''^'  ^^^^  °'''''®  '''''^^  ^^  ''''^ 

Retarded  for  several  hom^  by  fogs,  we  did  not  arrive 

at  Montreal  till  noon,  and  I  immediately  prepared  for 

my  journey  to  Toronto.  ^  r   r  «i 


II 


;i 


I  \ 


CHAPTER  VI. 


O  N  T  A  R  I  O N  I  A  O  A  R  A. 


Finally  qTiitting  Montreal  by  the  short  railway  to  La 
Chine,  and  then  proceeding  by  a  steamer  which  for 
four-and-twcnty  hours  went  up  portions  of  river  and 
canal  alternately,  I  was  enabled  with  the  greatest  ease, 
as  in  a  floating-hotel,  to  reach  Kingston  at  the  foot  of 
Lake  Ontario.  The  favourite  method  with  tourists  is 
to  come  doAvn,  not  go  up,  the  river  at  this  place, 
because  in  descending,  the  steamer  shoots  the  various 
rapids,  and  the  excitement  of  these  exploits  adds  to  the 
zest  of  the  excursion.  My  arrangements  not  admitting 
of  this  pleasure,  I  had  to  make  the  best  of  my  lot,  in 
proceeding  by  canal,  wherever  the  rapidity  of  the 
stream  did  not  allow  the  vessel  to  make  the  ascent 
of  the  St  Lawrence.  Yet,  I  had  no  cause  to  repine  at 
this  privation.  The  steamer  lost  little  time  in  the 
locks,  and  by  the  speed  slackening  somewhat  in  the 
canals,  I  had  an  opportunity  of  appreciating  the  excel- 
lence of  the  several  works  of  art  by  the  aid  of  which 
the  vessel  was  able  to  pursue  its  way.  It  left  the  river 
live  or  six  times,  and  went  through  as  many  canals, 
the  spaciousness  and  general  management  of  which 
reminded  me  of  the  Caledonian  Canal,  the  greatest 
work  of  the  kind  in  Britain.  Vast  as  has  been  the  out- 
lay on  this  extensive  system  of  canalage,  in  order  to 
avoid  the  rapids  of  the  St  Lawrence,  it  cannot  be  con- 
sidered a  useless  expenditure  of  public  money ;  for  the 


ONTAniO— NIAGARA.  ^ 

facility  80  afforded  to  internal  navigation,  is  of  the 
^atest  importance  to  iill  parts  of  the  country  on 
the  lakes.  ^ 

Formerly  in  two  provinces,  the  division  of  which  was 
the  Ottawa,  Canada  is  now  politicaUy  one,  though  a 
long  period  must  elapse  before  social  distinctionTdis- 
appear.     As  we  advance  upwards  by  the  St  Lawrence 
the  characteristics  of  the  old  French  settlements  give 
place  to  new  features;   and  after  passing  through  a 
transition    district,    apparently    not    weU    settled     we 
emerge  on  qiute  a  new  field  of  human  industry,  4ere 
aU  IS  hfe  and  vigour—we  have  arrived  in  the  great 
mner  world  bordering  on  the  lakes,  with  the  overactive 
United   States  on  our  left,  and  their  more  youthful 
competitor,  Upper  or  Western  Canada,  on  oii  right 
It  was  pleasant  on  a  fine  day  in  the  Indian  summer!  to 
watch  from  the  small  poop  of  the  steamer  the  gradual 
development  of  a  i-egion  difirering  in  some  respect  from 
that  which  I  had  passed  through.     As  the  settlements 
thickened,  to^vns  made  their  appearance.     The  first  of 
any  importance  within  the   state  of  New  York  was 
Ogdensburg,  a  thriving  port  for  river  and  lake  vessels 
and  connected  by  railway  with  other  cities.     On  the 
opposite  or  Canadian  side,  we  touched  at  Prescott  and 

Tl'^r^"'  f^  ^'°'P''""'  ^"  '^''^  appearance,  with 
a  weU-cleared  comitry  behind,  and  pretty  lying  farms 
in  their  -emity,  eoming  down  to  the  edge  of'Sjriver. 

We  may  be  said  now  to  enter  that  beautiful  and 
spacious  part  of  the  St  La^vrence  kno.vn  as  the  Lake  of 
the  Ihousand  Islands.  The  river  is  expanded  to  a  width 
of  from  two  to  three  mHes,  and  so  dotted  over^h 
islands,  as  to  have  apparently  neither  ingress  nor  Lrls 
The  islands  are  of  all  imaginable  sizes  fnd  foTrLXm 
a  smgle  rock  to  several  acres  in  extent.  All  axe  riclX 
clothed  with  wood  and  shrubs,  the  variegated  foLge  ^f 
which  contrasts  finely  with  the  smooth  blue  surfaS  of 

Q 


,  Jl,--J"»fl- 


98 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


the  water.  The  sail  for  fifty  miles  amidst  these  in-e- 
gularly  formed  islands,  situated  at  lesser  or  greater 
distances  from  each  other,  and  many  of  them  little 
paradises  of  beauty  and  fertility,  is  exceedingly  charm- 
ing, and  to  visit  this  part  of  the  St  Lawrence  is  the 
object  of  numerous  summer-excm-sions  from  the  United 
States.  At  certain  points,  light -houses  are  placed 
among  the  islands,  to  shew  the  proper  track  for  naviga- 
tion; and  we  can  suppose  that  without  these  guides  the 
vessels  might  chanco  to  lose  themselves  in  a  labyrinth 
ot  land  and  water. 

The  islands  continue  until  we  reach  Lake  Ontario. 
One  of  the  largest  .f  the  series  is  Wolfe  Island,  twenty  • 
miles   ong  and  seven  miles  across,  lying  in  the  gTcatly 
expanded  river  as  it  issues  fi-om  the  lake;  and  here,  on 
roundmg    a    rocky   and  fortified  promontory   on  the 
Canadian  side,   the   vessel   reaches   its   destination   at 
Kingston.     I   should  have   been  glad  to   have   spent 
some  days  here,  but  the  time  at  my  disposal  being 
Imnted    I   could  only  make  a  selection  of  places  to 
be   dehberately  visited.     Dming  the  half-hour  which 
intervened  before  starting,  I  walked  through  the  streets, 
which  contained  some  large  buildings  of  blue  limestone; 
the  whole  weU  laid  out  on  a  rising-gromid,  mth  a  line 
ot  wharfs  for  shipping.     A  government  dockyard  and 
muitary  establishment  give  an  air  of  importance  to  the 
place ;  and  from  the  excellence  of  its  harbour  at  the  foot 
ot  the  lake-navigation,  it  is  likely  to  become  the  centre 
ol  considera])le  traffic. 

Having  so  far  gratified  my  cmiosity,  I  went  on  board 
the  large  and  commodious  steamer.  Maple  Leaf,  bound 
tor  Toronto,  situated  at  the  distance  of  175  miles 
westward.  Li  a  sliort  time  after  dcpartnre,  the  vessel 
emancipated  itself  from  tlie  islands;  and  some  miles 
lorther  on,  we  had  before  us  the  broad  expanse  of 
Lake  Ontario,  the  voyage  on  wliich  cannot  be  said  to 


ONTARIO— NIAGAHA.  ™ 

differ  much  from  that  on  the  wide  ocean.     Keeping  the 
Canadian  .hore  m  view,  we  have  before  ua,  and  on 

breeze,  surge  angnly  against  the  bows  and  paddle- 
bo«s;  and  the  more  delicate  passengers  retire  quietly 
to  their  berths,  to  meditate  on  the  pleasm-es  of  life 
at  sea.     And  a  sea  we  are  really  upon,  as  regards 
dimensions  and  some  of  the  casualties  eomiectcd  with 
navigation.     The  lake,   formed  by  the   waters  which 
flow  from  Lake  Erie  by  the  Niagara  Eiver,  is  180 
miles  long  by  60  at  its  greatest  breadth;  consequently, 
those  who  live  on  its  banks  see  no  land  on  looking 
across  it.     The  roiface  of  the  lake,  in  its  ordinSy 
conations,  is  only  234  feet  above  the  Atlantic,  from 
winch  It  IS  distant  about  700  miles;  aa  the  tide,  how- 
evei.   mfl    n,33  the  river  considerably  above  Quebec, 
the  chief  nse  is  fi-om  near  Montreal,  where  the  rapids 
are  hrs    seen  on  commg  upwards.     Lake  Ontario,  pos- 

sTwt  r    '"■"■''''^  f  "^^'"S  ^-^  deep.     Its  iepth 
IS  said  to  be  in  many  places  upwards  of  COO  feet  •  on 
which  account  its  waters  have  a  comparatively  high 
temperature,  and  do  not  freeze  over  in  winter.     No 
doubt,  the  country  in  its  vicinity  participates  in  the 
mildness  of  climate  which  such  a  temperature  must 
necessarily  difluse.    Another  advantage  of  its  deenness, 
IS  the  small  power  possessed  by  the  wind  to  rouse  it 
into  storms,  m  comparison  with  the  effects  produced 
on  Lake  Ene    which,  being  shaUow,  is  easily  lashed 
mto  a  fury,  and  more  dangerous  to  navigators  than  any 
of  the  lakes.    I  was  repeatedly  warned,  that  as  the 
season  was  considerably  advanced,  I  shoxUd  be  careftd 
how  I  trusted  myself  i.i  the  vessels  on  Lake  Erie;  but 
X  never  heard  a  word  said  against  the  character  of 
either  Ontario  or  its  shipping,  though  temble  disasters 
nave  occasionally  occmred  -anon  it 


The  series  of  lakes. 


nij- — 1-1 


form  a  remai-kable 


100 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


I  . 


m    r 


feature    of  the    American    continent.      Setting    aside 
various  offshoots,  there  is  nothing  to  equal  the  chain 
of  inland  seas  formed  by  Lakes  Superior,  Michigan, 
Huron,  St  Clair,  Erie,  and  Ontario,  the  short  rivers 
Avhich    connect    them    being    assisted    by    side-canals, 
where   this   is   found   necessary  for   navigation.      The 
entire  sui-face  of  the  lakes  is  estimated  at  93,000  square 
miles;  they  are  understood  to  drain  an  area  of  400,000 
miles ;  and  it  is  said  that  their  contents  amount  to  one- 
half  of  all  the  fresh  water  on  the  globe.     The  number 
of  rivers,  large  and  small,  which  fall  into  them,  may 
be  supposed  to  be  very  considerable.     A  remarkable 
feature  of  these  vast  sheets  of  water,  is  their  variation  of 
level,  which  is  not  clearly  accounted  for  by  a  reference 
to  wet  and  dry  seasons.     Some  years  they  are  known 
to  rise  several  leet,  and  then  after  a  time  to  decline. 
Their  shores  seem  likewise  to  shift;  at  certain  places 
the   water    appears   to   be   washing   away  the  banks, 
leaving  an   abrupt  precipice  of  mud,  on  which  trees 
are  growing  to  the  very  brink;  and  at  other  places 
there  is  an  inclined  beach  of  sand  and  pebbles,  where 
the  waves  come  rippling  forward  and  break  in  a  mass 
of  foam,  as  on  the  sea-shore.     The  land  which  borders 
the  lakes  being  for  the  most  part  level,  or  having  only 
a  gentle  rise,  the  shores  cannot  be  described  as  pic- 
turesque.    In  sailing  on  the  lakes,  with  the  land  in 
view,   we   generally   see   little   else   than   a   fringe   of 
trees.     There   is   a  remarkable   exception   to  this   on 
some  parts  of  Lak    Ontario,  where  a  bold  background 
shews  itself;  and  I  am  informed  that  on  some  pai'ts 
of  Lake  Superior,  the  shores  are  precipitous,  and  as 
grand  as  the  imagination  can  desire.     A  very  slight 
examination   of  the  borders   of  Lake  Ontario,  shews 
that  in  its  present  dimensions  it  is  merely  the  residuum 
of  a  lake  very  much  larger,  which,  in  far-gone  ages,  had 
covered  a  large  part  of  Canada  and  the  opposite  coast. 


;tmg    aside 
the  chain 
Michigan, 
hort  rivers 
jide- canals, 
;ion.      The 
000  square 
of  400,000 
mt  to  oue- 
le  number 
hem,  may 
emarkable 
ariation  of 
L  reference 
ire  known 
;o  decline, 
ain  places 
he  banks, 
liich  trees 
ler  places 
les,  where 
in  a  mass 
h  borders 
iving-  only 
d  as  pic- 
3  land  in 
fringe   of 
•   this   on 
ckground 
»me  pai*t3 
3,  and  as 
sry  slight 
^o,  shews 
residuum 
ages,  had 
ite  coast. 


ONTARIO NIAGARA. 


101 


But  speculations  of  this  kind  belong  properly  to  the 
geologist,  and  are  alluded  to  here  on\v^  as  preliminary 
to  what  has  to  be  mentioned  respecting  the  Falls  of 
Niagara,  to  which  we  are  hastening. 

Looking  at  Ontario  in  the  form  into  which  it  has 
settled   down,  and  T^ill  remain  through  an  indefinite 
futurity— considering  its  accessibdity  from  the  ocean, 
Its  adaptation  in  every  respect  to  the  purposes  of  the 
navigator,  its  genial  temperature,  its  abundance  of  fish, 
and  the  almost  matcldess  fertility  of  the  lands  which 
border  its  shores,  I  am  necessarily  impressed  with  the 
conviction  that  it  is  destined  to  be  a  Mediterranean, 
around  which  a  great  people  are  to  cluster  and  flourish! 
Nor  did  a  nearer  acquaintance  with  the  western  part  of 
the  state  of  New  York  on  the  one  side,  or  the  eastern 
section  of  Canada  West  on  the  other,  lessen  this  impres- 
sion.   About  the  centre,  on  the  state  of  New  York  side 
the  river  Genesee  falls  into  the  lake;  and  here  the  city 
of  Rochester  is  the  port  for  perhaps  the  finest  agricul- 
tural vaUey  in  the  United  States.     Lower  down,  on  the 
same  side  of  the  lake,  is  Oswego,  a  port  on  a  river  of 
the  same  name,  and  also  the  outlet  of  a  rich  country 
behind.     Both  places  are  connected  by  railways  with 
the  eastern  cities,  and  therefore  can  be  easily  reached 
by  land.     While  these  and  some  other  towns  are  daily 
increasing  in  impori;ance  on  the  American  side  of  the 
lake,  signals  of  rapid  progress  are  also  visible  on  the 
Canadian  shore.     A  general  notion  has  somehow  pre- 
vailed, that  the  advance  of  improvement  is  comparatively 
slow  m  Canada;  but  from  the  facts  to  be  brought  for- 
ward, I  am  inclined  to  think  that  such  an  opinion  is 
now  at  least,  fallacious.     In  sailing  along  the  northern 
shore  of  Ontario,  we  observe  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Coboiirg  and  Port-Hope,   a  country  well  cleared  and 
cultivated,  with  every  indication  of  an  old-settled  and 
thnvmg  popuJation.    Things  improve  as  we  go  forwai-d 


!     I 


102 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


m  ¥' 


'  i 


It'   f 


and  when  we  come  in  sight  of  Toronto,  spread  out  on  a 
very  gradual  slope  rising  from  the  bottom  of  a  wide 
bay,  mth  its  manufactories,  church -spires,  massire 
public  buildings,  and  long  terrace-like  quay— the  whole 
lymg  with  a  sunny  exposm-e  to  the  south,  sheltered  by 
a  ndge  of  low  liiUs  on  the  north,  and  enriched  by  a 
fertile  country  around— we  exclaim,  Here  is  doubtless  to 
be  a  great  city,  here  the  metropoHs  of  Canada. 

Struck  with  the  imposing  appearance  of  Toronto  as 
seen  from  the  lake  in  front,  it  was  not  without  regret 
1  considered  it  advisable  to  postpone  my  visit  to   it 
for  a  few  days,  and  in  order  to  see  Niagara,  push  on  by 
another  vessel  about  to  sail  for  Lewiston.     Walking 
therefore,  from  the  one  steamer  to  the  other,  I  went  on 
board  the  Peerless,  a  vessel  of  great  beauty,  commanded 
and  partly  omied  by  Captain  Dick,  a  Scotchman,  and 
bred  seaman,  who  informer!  me  that  it  was  constructed 
Tinder  his  oAvn  directions  in  the  Clyde,  and  had  been 
brought  out  in  pieces  and  put  together  on  the  lake. 
Ihe  Peerless  is  built  in  the  English  form,  with  the 
saloon  and  chief  weight  below,  in  order  to  encoimter 
mthout  danger  the  gales  and  heavy  seas  on  the  lake. 
Ihis  handsome  vessel  leaves  Toronto   every  momino- 
for  LcTviston,  and  returns  the  same  day  with  persons 
who  arrive  by  the  trains.     As  the  run  is  only  thirty, 
six  miles   across  the  upper  and  narrow  part  of  the 
lake  to  Lewiston,  whence  parties  can  reach  the  FaUs  of 
Niagara  in  an  hour,  it  ma>  be  supposed  that  the  trip 
is  one  of  the  cheap  and  popular  holiday  amusements  of 
th'-  mhabitants  of  Toronto. 

Proceeding  directly  across  Ontario,  the  Peerless  soon 
came  in  sight  of  land  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Niagara 
and  drew  np  to  the  wharf  at  the  town  of  that  name  on 
the  right,  where  several  passengers  landed,  and  some 
others  were  taken  on  board.  On  the  opposite  side  of 
the  nver  stands  Fort  Niagara,  one  of  the  few  defences 


ONTARIO NIAGARA. 


103 


;s_,    massiye 


which  the  Americans  seem  to  consider  it  desirahle  to 
maintain  on  their  frontier.     The  river  Niagara  at  its 
outlet  is  seemingly  a  mile  in  -nddth,  but  finally  it  narrows 
to  about  the  thii-d  of  a  mile.     Where  it  issues  into  the 
lake,  the  land  is  level ;  but  in  advancing  upward,  the 
ground  begins  to  rise  till  we  aiTive  at  Lewiston  on  the 
left,  and  QueenstoMn  on  the  right  bank;  and  here,  at 
the  distance  of  seven  miles  from  Ontario,  the  margin  of 
the  river  on  each  side  becomes  a  complete  precipice, 
150  to  200  feet  high.     Steaming  up  the  river,  we  see  at 
a  distance  before  us  a  lofty  piece  of  country  stretching 
to  the  right  and  left,  through  the  middle  of  which  the 
river  has  sawn  its  way ;  and  it  is  at  the  face  of  this 
range  that  the  precipitous  banks  commence.     On  the 
American  bank,  the  slope  of  the  high  ground  stretching 
away  from  the  river  is  of  a  regular  form,  weU  wooded; 
and  it  is  upon  the  plateau  of  level  land  extended  east- 
wards  from  the  bottom  of  the  slope,  and  abutting  on 
the  river,  that  the  toim  of  Lewiston  has  been  built. 
The  situation  is  not  well  adapted  for  river-traffic.     Its 
site  on  the  plateau  is  considerably  above  the  level  of  the 
water,  and  there  is  no  space  at  the  landing-place  for 
shipping.     I  saw  no  vessel  of  any  kuid  at  its  shp  of 
wharf,  where  the  Peerless  dresv  up,  and  put  ashore  a 
crowd  of  passengers  designed  for  a  very  inferior  kind 
of  railway,  which  is  connected  with  a  line  of  a  better 
construction  at  the  village  adjoining  the  Falls.     As  the 
Peer/m  crossed  immediately  to  Queenstown,  I  preferred 
adopting  the  route  by  that  viUage,  as  the  Falls  are  best 
seen  from  the  Canadian  side,  and  I  desired  to  make  sure 
of  receiving  good  impressions  at  first.     Having  accord- 
ingly crossed  over,  I  found,  on  touching  the  shore,  two 
covered  droskies,   driven  by  negro  lads,   waiting  for 
custom;  and  having  selected  one  of  these  conveyances 
—a  very  miserable  affair— I  was  driven  by  a  bad  road 
up   a  long   and   steen  bank    tnwnvria    +],. 


104 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


Queenstown  heights.     These  consist  of  irregular  knolls, 
partly  covered  with  wood,  with  a  few  houses,  scarcely 
deserving   the  name  of  village,   scattered  about  their 
lower  declivities.     Frora    a  pathway  on  the   shrubby 
bank   overhanging  thj  river,  a  handsome  suspension- 
bridge,  1040  feet  in  length,  has  been  thrown  across  to 
the    opposite   side   for    the    accommodation    of   foot- 
passengers.     Queenstown  heights  were  the  scene  of  a 
battle  during  the  war  of  1812,  and  in  a  conspicuous 
situation  a  monument  is  about  to  be  erected  to  the 
memory  of  General  Brock,  the  British  commander,  who 
was  slain  in  the  engagement.     This  new  structure  is  to 
supply  the  place  of  a  former  monument,  which  had  been 
blown  up  and  destroyed  by  some  party  unknown,  in  a 
spirit  of  wanton  mischief. 

The  Queenstown  heights,  however  irregular  in  form, 
correspond  with  the  high  sloping  range  on  the  opposit^ 
bank  of  the  river,  ani  both  elevations  are  continued 
like  a  crescent,  so  as  to  form  a  kind  of  exterior  high 
rim  round  the  head  of  Lake  Ontario.     On  the  Canada 
side,  the  rim,  locaUy  caUed  the  Mountain,  is  seen  to 
continue  far  northwards,  with  a  bend  towards  the  east, 
so  as  to  environ  the  lake  at  a  lesser  or  greater  distance! 
At  the  base  of  this  lofty  and  ancient  margin  of  Ontario, 
near  the  head  of  the  lake,  has  been  built  the  city  of 
Hamilton,  from  which  the  range  widens  in  its  stretch, 
and  in  the  direction  of  Toronto  leaves  a  tract  twenty 
miles  in  breadth  between  it  and  the  shore.     Reaching 
at  any  point  the  top  of  this  singular  embankment,  we 
find  ourselves  on  a  table-land  apparently  boundless  in 
dimensions.     We  have,  in  fact,  ascended  to  the  broad 
and  generally  level   territory  surrounding  Lake  Erie, 
which,  by  measurement,  is  334  feet  above  Lake  Ontario! 
From  the  one  lake  to  the  other,  therefore,  a  descent  of 
that  amount  is  eflPected  by  the   river  Niagara  in  its 
com-se  of  thirty-three  miles,  a  distinct  plunge  of  about 


ONTARIO— NIAGARA.  iQg 

160  feet  being  made  at  the  Falls,  which  are  situated  at 
the  distance  of  six  miles  above  the  old  lake  margin  at 
Queenstown,  and  fourteen  miles  from  the  present  mouth 
of  the  nver  at  Ontario.     Geologists  generaUy  concur  in 
the  behef,  that  the  Falls  were  at  one  time  at  Queens- 
town    from  which,  in  the  course  of  ages,  they  have 
ploughed  then-  way  upward.     The  slightest  inspection 
of  the  ground  leads  infaUibiy  to  this  conclusion.     For 
SIX  mihs  the  nver  rum^  through  a  ravine,  the  sides  of 
which  composed  of  mouldering  rocks  and  studded  over 
mth  shrubs,  are  as  steep  as  those  of  a  grave.     Through 
this  long  gorge,  silent  and  awfril,  rolls  the  deep  flood 
hghtish  green  in  its  colour,  and  carrying  masses  of 
froth  on  Its  whirHng  and  boiling  surface.     Compressed 
into  so  narrow  a  channel,  the  river  is  from  200  to  300 
teet  m  depth.     At  one  place,  narrower  than  elsewhere, 
and  bending  m  its  course,  the  force  of  the  current  raises 
a  cone  of  water  ten  feet  high,  which,  whirling  round 
draws  trees  and  any  other  floating  objects  into  its  vortex' 
A  gentlem      whom  I  met  on  my  journey,  informed  me 
that  at  the  tame  of  his  visit  to  the  whirlpool,  the  bodies 
of  two  Enghsh  deserters,  who  had  been  drowned  in 
attempting  to  swim  across  the  river,   were  spinnin.^ 
round  the  cone  of  water,  and  had  been  so  for  three 
weeks  previously ! 

The  picturesque  in  landscape,  as  is  well  known 
depends  on  geological  conditions.  Wherever  certain 
varieties  of  hmestone  and  sandstone  prevail,  there 
nvers  are  ol^served  to  excavate  for  themselves  a  deep 
channel,  so  as  to  leave  banks  of  lesser  or  greater 
abruptness.  Hence,  the  whole  phenomena  of  the 
Niagara  nver  and  its  falls.  On  examining  the  face  of 
the  sloping  range  above  refened  to,  it  is  found  to  con- 
sist  chiefly  of  layers  of  limestone,  shivery  clay  marls,  and 
red  sandstones-the  latter  being  knowk  as  the  M;dina 
Sandstone.     I  do  not  need  to  so  into  nr^v  .on^..^t  of 


100 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


i        il 


the  limestones    toher  than  to  say  that  they  easily 

Medina  SanastonT"^^^^^  tsh^l^.^LSt^J 

foL^     Tt  *''*  ^°"P°^^  *«  -  large  Lent  the 
red-eoloured  and  productive  soils  which  border  on  the 
Canadian  and  American  shores  of  Ontario.     The  slon- 
mg  mountain-range,  whence  these  soils  have  descended, 
IS  not  everywhere  entire.      Here  and  there,  rivnlet 
have  worn  it  down  into  valleys,  in  one  of  whicrHe 
the  thnving  ^a^e  of  Dundas,  a  few  miles  north  from 
Hamdton.     Speculations  have  been  hazarded  on  the 
ength  of  time  which  the  Falls  of  Niagara  have  taken 
to  retire  oversix  miles  from  the  face  of  tlie  momitain- 
range  at  Lewiston;  but  long  as  this  period  has  been, 
how  msigmficant  m  comparison  with  that  vast  interval 
which  has  lapsed  since  the  rocky  structures  of  Canada 
were  m  the  form  of  Hquescent  sediment  ..  the  bottom 
of  a  sea,  and  mcased  in  their  bosom  those  fishes  which 
are  now  disclosed  by  the  rude  blows  of  the  quarryman, 
geoloSf  ^'  ''''''*'^'  curiosities  by  the  fossH-lovin^ 
To  overcome  the  great  difference  of  level  between 
Ontano  and  Ene  for  purposes  of  navigation,  has  been 
a  matter  of  senous   concern.      The   work   has  been 
happily  effected  within  the  Canadian  territory,  by  the 
establ^hment  of  the  Welland  Canal,  which,  b;ginning 
at  Port-Dalhousic,  on  Lake  Ontario,  rises  by  a  serie! 
of  locks  to  Port-Colborne,  on  Lake  Erie.     This  great 
public  work  has  been   eminently  successful.      Vessels 
pour  through  the  canal  in  the  upward  and  downward 
passage,  m  an  unceasing  stream,  yielding  tolls  amount- 
ing to  .€50,000  per  annum.     So  much  of  the  traffic 
18  m  Amencan  vessels,  that  the  United  States'  govern- 
ment contemplate.^   the  execution  of  a  similar  canal,  to 
commence  below  Lewiston.     The  traffic  is  growing  so 


ONTARIO NIAGARA.  iqj 

rapidly,  that  it  may  be  presumed  there  is  enough  for 
both. 

To    resume    the    account    of   my  exciirsion.      On 
quitting  sight  of  the  river  and  opposite  banks,   the 
drosky   conveyed   me    by   a    rough    public    highway, 
through  a  pleasing  piece  of  country,  so  well  cleared, 
enclosed,  and  ornamented  with  rows  and  clumps  of  trees, 
and  so  agreeably  enlivened  with  neat  mansions,  and  with 
cattle    of  good  breeds  browsing  in  green  fields,  that 
one  could  hardly  believe  that  he  was  out  of  England. 
Timing  down  a  cross-road  to  the  left,  we  came,  at  the 
distance  of  half  a  mile,  to  the  river ;  and  there,  in  a 
moment,  seen  most  unpoetically  through  the  dimmed 
and  distorting  glass  of  the  drosky,  I  had  my  first  view 
of  Niagara.    Such  is  the  way  that  common-place  circum- 
stances are  for  ever  controUing  aspirations  after  romance, 
and  bringing  the  ideal  down  to  a  working  world !     Set 
down  at  the  door  of  the  Clifton  House— on  the  one  hand 
were  the  Falls,  which  I  had  often  wondered  whether  I 
should  ever  see,  and  on  the  other  were  the  negro  drosky- 
driver  receiving  his   fare,   and   a  porter  carrying  my 
baggage  up  the  steps  of  the  hotel.     Chfton  House— to 
get  it  out  of  the   way— is  one  of  those  enormously 
large  hotels,  with  hundreds   of  bedrooms  and  a  vast 
table-d'hote  saloon,  which  are  seen  everywhere  in  the 
States,  and  now  begin  to  be  naturalised  in  Canada.   The 
estabhshment  is  the  property  of  a  Mr  Zimmermann, 
whose  residence   and    pleasure-grounds   are   adjacent. 
The  hotel  faces  the  west,  has  a  roadway  on  the  south 
between  it  and  the  ravine  through  which  the  river  is 
rolling,  and  this  road  continues  westward  for  half  a 
mile  to  the  Falls.     The  prospect  from  the  door  of  the 
hotel,  looking  along  the  road,  and  interrupted  by  no 
intervening  object,  commands,  therefore,  a  view  of  the 
cataract  in  all  its  grandeur,  along  with  the  scenery  with 
wliich  it  is  environed. 


1 


108 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


At  the  period  of  my  visit,  the 


passed,  the  Chfton  was  on  the  eve  of  being  shut  up,  and 
with  hoste  of  strangers  the  army  of  parasHie  guide  had 
fortunately  disappeared.  With  the  singular  gSuck  of 

of  2   Tu       -?r  "  '1'"'*  '">'•  "'^'''"=™te  inspeetion 
rL*kablfflne       dT'"'   "  '"*'"'   '^'''"y'  ^^  «"» 

sound  from  the  faUmg  waters  alone  came  on  the  ear 
wrthou    eeasmg  or  change-a  monotonous   m,^u; 

^o^ttoitrrr '"-'' "  ^--  -'  ^^ = 

Bntish   or  Horseshoe,  and  the  Ameriean-the  division 
being  formed  by  Goat  Island,  a  well-wooded  pie^  of 
land,  wh,ch  terminates  in  a  preeipice  between  t^em 
On  a«eount  of  a  turn  m,de  by  the  river  at  the  spot  the 

face  the  spectator  on  the  opposite  bank ;  and  it  is  this 
c^cum^ance  which  renders  the  view  fr;m  the  Cana 

ttr„att  "  r"''"/^  ad^ntageous.  Walking  X,g 
the  pathway  from  the  hotel,  with  only  a  fiiige  of 
bushes  on  the  brink  of  the  ravine  on  o,^  lefT^  art 

baie  table-hke  ledge  from  which  it  is  precipitated 
Compehed  to  advance  to  the  Falls  in  this  m2er  on 
a    cvel  v.th  their  smnmit,   and   necessarily  reading 

much  i,  ""t'^  "'  "P"'^"'  the  phenomenon  Ccf 

much  m  magmfioeuee.    Other  featm^cs  and  eiremn 
stances  ,,er.e  to  Wn  the  wonder,  if  not  to  "a 
feelmg  of  disappointment.    As  is  usual,  I  expen^ced 

feei^Z  .^''.^^'^S^^ted  descriptions  which  have 

ItToi  bv  !'^''r  '".'^  ^"^  *°  ""■*"«  expectations. 
IS  only  by  a  patient  study  of  the  Falls  in  the  form 


ONTARIO NIAGARA. 


109 


and  dimensions  presented  to  us  by  nature,  that  wi  clear 
the  mind  of  erroneous  conceptions,  and  see  and  relish 
them  in  tlieir  simple  dignity  and  beauty. 

Seated  on  a  bare  piece  of  rock  close  to  the  falling 
mass,  I  was  able  to  contemplate  the  scene  witL  perhaps 
as  much  advantage  as  could  possibly  be  enjoyed.     The 
rapids  above,  with  the  water  wildly  advancing   on  its 
rocky  bed,  the  toppling  over  of  the  great  mass  twenty 
feet  deep  on  coming  to  the  brink  of  the  chasm,   the 
white  spray  rising  like  a  cloud  from  the  gulf  below,  the 
terribly  jumbled  river  proceeding  on  its  course,   and 
receiving  the  American  faU  as  it  passed— aU  contributed 
to  make  up  the  general  picture.     On  looking  up  the 
river,  the  land  is  seen  to  rise  only  a  few  feet  above  the 
banks,  and  to  be  for  the  most  part  under  wood,  with 
two  or  three  villas  on  prominent  knolls  in  the  distance. 
From  the  brink  of  the  cHffs  on  the  British  side,  masses 
of  rock  have  from  time  to  time  fallen,  so  as  to  form 
a  rugged  margin  for  the  water;  and  near  the  Clifton 
House,  amidst  this  collection  of  debris,  a  roadway  has 
been  made  down  the  bank  to  aflPord  access  to  a  ferry- 
boat which  plies  across  the  river.     The  view  from  the 
boat,  as  it  dances  on  the  surface  of  the  troubled  water, 
IS  more  effective  in  overpowering  the  imagination  than 
that  from  the  banks  above;  and  still  more  grand  is  the 
view  from  the  deck   of  a  small  steamer,  which  plies 
during  summer,  and  courageously  approaches  almost  to 
the  foot  of  the  Falls. 

Opinions  differ  respecting  points  so  deceptive  to  the 
eye  as  the  height,  breadth,  and  other  dimensions  of 
these  mighty  cataracts.  Accurate  measurements,  how- 
ever, have  been  taken,  so  as  to  leave  no  longer  room 
for  conjecture.  The  height  of  the  British  fall  is  158 
feet,  and  its  width,  foUowing  the  horseshoe-like  curve, 
is  1881  feet.  The  American  fall  is  a  little  higher,  being 
164  feet,  and  its  width  is  924  feet ;  but  in  this  is  included 


110 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


H    t 


■ 


a  lesser  cataract,  and  the  rocky  islet  which  separates  it 
from  th(  larger  body.  Adding  a  breadth  of  1320  feet 
for  the  termination  of  Goat  Island,  which  intervenes,  we 
have  altogether,  from  one  extremity  of  the  Falls  to  the 
other,  a  width  of  4125  feet,  or  four-fifths  of  a  mile. 
As  the  width  of  the  river  at  the  ferry  is  no  more  than 
1254  feet,  an  idea  from  this  circumstance  will  be  obtained 
of  the  manner  in  which  the  Falls  are  placed  diagonally 
to  the  line  of  the  river.  The  mass  of  water  projected 
over  the  Falls  is  estimated  at  nineteen  and  a  half 
millions  of  cubic  feet  per  minute. 

About  a  mile  eastward  from  the  Clifton  House,  and 
therefore  about  a  mUe  and  a  half  below  the  Falls,  the 
river  is  spanned  by  a  suspension-bridge,  the  view  from 
which,  down  to  the  water  below,  is  probably  the  most 
sublime  of  all.     Driving  round  by  this  bridge,  to  the 
American  side,  I  arrived  in  the  village  of  Manchester  (!) 
near  the  Falls,  and  there  remained  a  day.     The  branch 
of  the  river  above  the  fall  on  this  side  is  crossed   to 
Goat  Island  by  a  long  wooden  bridge,  which  has  been 
erected  on  posts  driven  into  the  rocky  channel;  a  toll 
of  twenty-five  cents  being  paid  by  visitors  for  liberty  to 
cross  during  the  season.     Goat  Island  extends  half  a 
mile  in  length,  by  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  its 
greatest  breadth,  and  is  thickly  covered  with  natural 
woods,  amidst  which  a  drive  may  be  pleasantly  made 
round  it.      It  was   interesting  to  walk  to  the  upper 
extremity  of  the  island,  and  there  observe  the  river 
parting  into  two  branches,  each  rushing  forward  in  an 
impetuous  rapid  towards  its  fate.     The  channel  of  the 
rapid  forming  the  American  fall  is  broken  by  several 
islets,  connected  by  bridges,  and  from  these  we  are  able 
to  overlook  it  so  near  to  the  shoot,  that  one  of  the  islets, 
as  ali-eady  stated,   breaks  the   descending   mass,   and 
causes  a  small  and  separate   fall.     By  a  long  wooden 
stair  the  visitor  arrives  at  the  bottom  of  the  precipice 


ONTARIO NIAGARA. 


Ill 


wliich  terminates  Gout  Island,  and  here,  using  a  narrow 
footpath,  he  can  reach  either  fall,  and  to  a  certain 
length  go  behind  the  descending  waters.  A  more 
pleasing  prospect  is  obtained  from  the  top  of  a  tower 
erecied  on  a  rock  in  the  water  on  the  brink  of  the 
British  fall,  and  connecced  by  a  platform  with  Goat 
Island.  Here  we  may  be  said  to  procure  a  central 
bird's  eye  view  of  the  tumult  of  waters ;  and  it  was 
from  this  elevated  spot,  and  by  the  light  of  the  setting 
sun,  that  I  had  my  last  look  of  Niagara. 

In  tliinking  of  this  marvellous  work  of  nature,  it  Is 
unfortunate  that  the  mind  is  disturbed  by  mean  asso- 
ciations connected  with  the  works  of  man.  On  the  British 
side,  it  is  environed  by  a  series  of  paltry  curiosity-shops; 
and  there,  at  the  ledge  on  which  I  had  'seated  myself,  a 
labourer  was  busied  in  wheeling  rubbish  into  the  cataract. 
On  the  American  side,  runs  of  water  have  been  led  off 
to  move  the  machinery  of  a  saw  and  paper  mill;  and  at 
present  there  is  a  propositi;,n  before  the  world  to  turn  the 
whole  force  of  the  river  to  profitable  account  in  some 
kind  of  mechanical  processes !  Why,  of  all  conceivable 
names,  Manchester  should  have  been  selected  for  the 
village,  or  infant  city,  now  in  the  course  of  erection 
near  the  American  fall,  it  would  be  difficult  to  ui.der- 
stand  on  any  other  principle  than  that  of  imparting  a 
manufacturing  character  to  the  spot. 

Manchester,  if  it  must  be  so  called,  consists  of  several 
•streets  in  skeleton,  with  a  large  railway-station  in  the 
centre,  and  a  number  of  hotels  stuck  about  for  the 
accommodation  of  \isitors.  In  order  to  trace  the  banks 
of  the  river  deliberately,  I  hired  a  caleche  to  Lewiston, 
and  loitered  at  different  points  by  the  way.  At  the 
suspension-bridge,  which  I  had  previously  crossed,  a 
scene  of  extraordinaiy  acti\dty  presented  itself.  Extensive 
preparations  were  making  to  carry  the  railway,  which  is 
in  connection  with  New  York,  across  the  Niagara  river 


I 


I 

i 
I      I 


'} 


112 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


to  Canada,  where  it  wiU  join  the  Great  Western,  now 
opened  through  the  province.    For  this  purpose,  the  old 
suspension-bridge  at  the  spot  is  to  be  superseded  by  a 
new  structure,  on  the  same  suspension  principle,   but 
much  bolder  in  design.    It  wiU  have  a  span  of  800  feet 
and  consist  of  two  floors;  the  upper  to  carry  the  trains! 
and  the  lower  for  ordinary  carriages  and  foot-passengers. 
Ihe  engineer  of  the  undertaking  is  John  A.  Roebling 
and  the  cost  is  estimated  to  be  50,000  dollars,  which' 
1  should  fear,  wiU  faU  considerably  short  of  the  actual 
outlay. 

I  arrived  in  Lewiston  in  time  for  the  departure  of 
the  Peerless,  by  which  I  had  a  pleasant  run  back  to 
Toronto. 


CHAPTER    VII. 


TORONTO — CANADA-WEST. 

The  agreeable  impressions  I  had  formed  from  a  glimpse 
of  Toronto  from  the  water  were  deepened  by  a  residence 
of  a  week,  during  which  I  made  some  pleasant  excur- 
sions m  the  neighbourhood.  No  situation  could  have 
been  better  selected  for  a  great  city.  The  ground,  form- 
ing a  broad  plain,  rises  with  an  easy  slope  and  southern 
exposure  from  the  shore  of  Ontario,  and  is  backed  by  a 
series  of  terrace-like  ranges,  the  ancient  beaches  of  the 
lake,  now  composing  a  fertile  and  well-cultured  stretch 
of  country. 

For  some  time  styled  York,  or  Little  York,  this  city 
reverted  a  few  years  ago  to  the  Indian  name  ^vhich  it 
bore  when  consisting  of  only  a  few  wigwams.     It  has  in 
the  space  of  sixty  years,  offered  one  of  those  remarkable 
instances  of  progression  so  common  in  North  America 
From  no  more  than  336  in  1801,  its  inhabitants  have 
increased  to  40,000,  and  it  is  estimated  that  the  addi- 
tions  now  faU  little  short   of  10,000  every  year.     In 
visiting  Toronto,  we  see  on   aU   sides   indications   of 
progress— houses  building,  streets   extending,   ground 
staked  off  for  new  thoroughfares,  places   of  business 
opemng,  large  and  handsome  public  edifices  rising  up 
and  every  social  feature  acquiring  fresh  development 
Nowhere  in  America  do  we  see  churches  of  more  elegant 
architecture.     The  streets,   laid  out  in  lines  at  right 
angles   to   each  other,  are  lon^  anrl    ar^ani^^c .    vi^^ 


I  j^ ---''-■'-■^-^'•^'^■"^--ir'-"---irH-il-itfiiifi'ri1ili'iiii^i 


114 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


!<"    i 


Street,  which  forms  the  chief  central  thoroughfare,  being 
two  miles  in  length,  and  environed  with  as  magnificent 
shops  as  can  be  seen  in  any  large  town  in  England  I 
had  the  honour  of  conversing  with  one  of  the  most 
aged  and  esteemed  residents,  who  described  the  city  as 
having  within  his  recollection  consisted  of  only  a  few 
cottages  in  the  wilderness— an^  now,  said  he,  the  value 
of  its  assessed  property  is  £4,000,000  ! 

The  bay  in  front  of  Toronto  is  sheltered  in  a  remark- 
able manner  by  a  long  and  naiTow  peninsula,  encom- 
passing it  on  the  eastern  side,  and  round  which  vessels 
require  to  make   a  wide   sweep   in  approaching    the 
harbour.     With  a  few  trees  and  houses  dotted  along, 
and  terminating  in  a  light-house,  the  peninsula  adds  a 
pictui-esque  feature  to  an  expanse  of  water,  of  which 
from   the   shore  we   see   no   boundary   except   on  the 
western  horizon.     Along  the  shore  there  is  a  series  of 
wharfs  for  the  shipping  of  the  port,   the  whole  over- 
looked  by    a   street   containing   some   of  the  largest 
buildings  in  the  town.     At  a  conspicuous  part  of  this 
thoroughfare  is  the  newly  erected  depot  of  a  railway- 
connected  with  the  country  in  the  west,  and  by  which 
the  trade  of  the  place  Mill  be  considerably  augmented. 
Ah-eady,  at  the  time  of  my  \isit,  a  line  of  railway  was 
opened  in  a  northerly  direction  from   Toronto,  for  a 
distance   of  nearly  forty  miles  to  the   neighbourhood 
of  Lake  Simcoe.     Further  extensions  of  this  line  were 
projected,  with  a  view  to  opening  up  a  ready  communi- 
cation with  Lake  Huron;    so  that   ultimately   parties 
travelling  to  that  far-distant  lake,  instead  of  pui'suing  a 
circuitous  passage  by  Lake  Erie  and  the  river  St  Clair, 
will  be  able  to  make  a  short-cut  across   the   country 
from   Toronto.     When  the   Grand  Trunk  Railway  of 
Canada,  now  in  course   of  execution  from  Montreal, 
contributes  another  terminus  to  the  general  centre  of 
traffic  in  Toronto,  it  may  be  expected  that  the  trade  of 


CA. 


ughfare,  being 
is  magnificent 
1  England      I 

of  the  most 
led  the  city  as 
of  only  a  few 

he,  the  value 

I  in  a  remark- 
Qsula,  encom- 

which  vessels 
iroaching  the 
dotted  along, 
linsula  adds  a 
tcr,  of  -which 
xcept  on  the 
is  a  series  of 
!  whole  over- 
f  the  largest 
s  part  of  this 
f  a  railway — 
md  by  which 
y  augmented, 
f  railway  was 
pronto,  for  a 
eighbourhood 
this  line  were 
dy  communi- 
lately  parties 
of  prn'suing  a 
iver  St  Clair, 

the  country 
k  Railway  of 
m  Montreal, 
;ral  centre  of 

the  trade  of 


TORONTO CANADA- WEST.  Jig 

the  place  will  receive  a  fresh  and  important  impulse. 
In  anticipation  of  these  accessions,  all  kinds  of  property 
in  the  city  and  neighbourhood   had    greatly  risen   in 
value;  and  the  rents  of  houses  and  stores  were  as  high 
as  they  are  in   some   of  the  best  streets  in  London. 
With  eveiy  new  and  successful  settler,  new  demands 
originate;  and  to  satisfy  these,  new  manufactories  of 
various  kinds  spring  into  existence.     In  tliis  manner, 
Toronto  experiences  a  rapid  groTvi;h  of  those  industries 
which  minister  to  human  wants  and  aspirations.    People 
in  the  old  country  never  thoroughly  divest  themselves 
of  the  notion,  that  in  such  a  newly  got-up  community 
as  that  of  Toronto,  things  are  in  a  raw  or  elementaiy 
condition.     What,  then,  will  be  thought  of  the   fact, 
that  m  this  very  recently  established  city  there   is   a 
manufactory  of  cabinet  and  other  varieties  of  fm-niture, 
tm-nmg  out  articles  which,  in  point  of  elegance,  will 
match  any  of  the  products  of  France  or  England?     I 
allude  to  the  factory  of  Jacques  and  Hay,  which  I  had 
much  pleasure  in  visiting.      It   consists   of  two  large 
brick  bmldings,  commodiously  situated  on  the  quay, 
and    m    its   various    branches    gives   employment   to 
upwards  of  a  hundred  persons.     Conducted  from  floor 
to  floor  by  one  of  the  partners,  I  here  for  the  first  time 
saw  m  operation  the  remarkably  ingenious  machineiy 
lor  planing,   turning,   morticing,    and   efiecting  other 
purposes  m  carpentry,  for  which  the  United  States  have 
gained  such   deserved    celebrity,    and  which   I   subse- 
quently saw  on  a  vast  scale  at  Cincinnati.     Besides  the 
finer  class  of  drawing-room  furniture,  made  from  black 
walnut-wood,  an  inferior  kind  is   here   made   for  the 
use  01  emigrants  at  a  price  so  low,  that  importation  of 
the  article  is  entirely  superseded.     So   perfect   is   the 
machinery,  that  from  the  rough  timber  a  neat  bedstead 
can  be  made  and  put  together  in  the  short  space  of  two 
minutes ! 


116 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


i 


IHl  I 

■  I 


Depending  partly  on  exterior  trade  and  internal 
manufactures,  Toronto  possesses  not  less  importance 
from  qualities  of  a  higher  character.  It  is  the  chief 
seat  of  education  in  the  province.  Besides  a  university 
and  college — the  latter  being  a  preparatory  school — it 
has  several  theological  and  other  seminaries,  among 
which  Trinity  College  occupies  a  distinguished  position. 
The  buildings  appropriated  to  these  several  institutions 
are  in  the  best  styles,  and  form  ornamental  features 
in  the  general  aspect  of  the  town.  In  the  midst  of 
a  beautiful  park  on  the  west,  large  and  handsome 
buildings  are  in  course  of  erection  to  accommodate  the 
provincial  legislature  and  governor-general.  No  public 
edifice  aflForded  me  more  interest  than  that  recently 
erected  in  the  northern  environs  for  the  Normal  and 
Model  Schools  establishment.  This  is  a  large  building 
in  the  Italian  style,  and  T\ith  its  various  departments, 
forms  the  centre  of  a  system  of  elementary  instruction 
pervading  the  whole  of  Canada.  From  the  lev.  Dr 
Ryerson,  head  of  the  establishment,  I  receiv  I  every 
suitable  explanation  of  the  character  and  woJdng  of 
the  system ;  respecting  which  it  is  only  needful  to 
mention  the  gratifying  fact,  that  Canada- West  now 
possesses  upwards  of  3000  common  schools,  supported 
at  an  expense  of  about  £100,000,  four-fifths  of  which 
sum  are  raised  by  local  assessment,  en  a  scale  of  great 
liberality.  I  believe  I  may  safely  aver,  that  imder  the 
system  of  education  now  established,  and  going  on,  as 
the  Americans  would  say,  in  'full  blast,^  schools  are 
erected  and  supported  with  a  degree  of  enthusiasm  in 
Western  Canada,  which  is  not  excelled  in  any  part  of 
the  States. 

It  will  readily  be  supposed,  that  by  means  of  i's 
educational  and  scientific  institutes,  its  law-courts,  and 
other  public  establishments,  Toronto  draws  together 
the   elements   of   a    highly    respectable    and    refined 


TORONTO CANADA- WEST. 


117 


going  on,  as 


community.  So  much  is  this  the  case,  that,  excepting 
the  long-established  cities  of  Boston  and  Philadelphia, 
it  would  be  difficult  to  point  out  any  place  in  North 
America  possessing  so  many  attractions  to  persons  of 
taste  and  leisure.  As  in  the  larger  American  cities, 
there  may  be  here  observed  extensive  and  flourishing 
book-stores — ^true  indications  of  the  liigher  tendencies ; 
and  newspapers  are  to  all  appearance  as  cheap  and 
numerous  as  they  are  in  any  city  of  similar  size  in 
the  States. 

With  a  wide  and  improving  coimtry  in  its  environs, 
Toronto   is   a   point  whence  emigrants   may  advanta- 
geously diverge  in  quest  of  settlements  that  have  been 
wholly  or  partially  cleared,  respecting  which  all  proper 
information  is  obtainable  at  the  offices  of  land-agents. 
It  must  not,  however,  be  imagined  that  farms  are  to  be 
had  in  this  quarter  at  the  prices  for  which  they  can  be 
acquired  in  fui'ther  remote  and  newly  opened  districts. 
Near  Toronto,  things  are  pretty  much  what  they  are 
in  the  old  country.     At  the  distance  of  six  miles  from 
town,  I  visited  a  gentleman  who  had  lately  bought  a 
farm  of  100  acres,  cleared,  fenced,  and  in  good  culti- 
vation, with  an  excellent  dwelling-house  and  suite  of 
farm-buildings,  for  ^2000— a  great  bargain,  doubtless, 
considering  the  locahty.     Those  desirous  of  starting  in 
a  more  moderate  way  as  agriculturists,  will,  of  course, 
proceed  westwards,  and  it  will  be  singular  if  they  do 
not  light  upon  spots  suitable  to  their  wishes,  whatever 
these  may  be. 

One  of  my  aims  being  to  see  something  of  settlements 
recently  excavated  from  the  wilderness,  I  planned  a 
journey  with  a  friend  through  the  penins^ila  of  Canada, 
taking  the  more  interesting  localities  by  the  way.  For 
this  pm-pose,  I  proceeded  in  the  first  place  by  steamer 
to  Hamilton,  situated  on  Burlington  Bay,  a  spacious 
m^^v  «,i,  ..nc  iicttu  ui  jjuis^c.  Ontario.     Altiiough  a  city  of 


•imgmmuMmmmtm»am 


118 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


very  recent  origin,  Hamilton  already  has  a  population 
of  nearly  20,000,  and  consists  of  a  number  of  broad 
and  handsome  streets,  with  several  public  buildings 
and  a  variety  of  villas  scattered  about  the  face  of  the 
mountain-range,  which  shelters  the  town  on  the  west. 
Within  the  distance  of  a  mile  on  the  north,  and  overlook- 
ing the  head  of  the  bay,  stands  Dundum,  a  castellated 
and  baronial-looking  mansion,  built  as  a  residence  by 
Sir  Allan  M'Nab,  one  of  the  celebrities  of  the  province. 
Beyond  this  point  I  drove  out  several  miles  to  visit  the 
Hon.  Adam  Ferguson,  a  gentleman  of  landed  property 
in  Scotland,  who  emigrated  to  Canada  with  his  family 
in  1833.  Mr  Ferguson  settled  at  first  in  a  district 
further  west,  on  the  Grand  River,  which  is  now  in  an 
exceedingly  thriving  condition.  Removing  afterwards 
to  East  Flamborough,  a  township  lying  on  the  slopes 
which,  vnth  a  southerly  aspect,  face  Burlington  Bay, 
he  has  here,  in  his  property  of  WoodhiU,  transformed 
a  wild  and  timber-covered  tract  of  land  into  a  beautiful 
cleared  estate. 

Rounding  the  head  of  the  bay,  and  then  proceeding 
in  an  easterly  direction  along  a  tolerably  good  road,  I 
had  occasion  to  pass  a  farm  in  the  process  of  being 
cleared.  Numbers  of  trees  were  felled  and  lying  about 
confusedly  on  the  ground.  A  man  and  boy  were  busily 
cutting  off  branches,  and  piling  them  in  heaps  to  be 
burnt,  while  masses  lay  smouldering  and  sending  up 
streams  of  blue  smoke,  which  curled  away  picturesquely 
over  the  uncleared  part  of  the  forest.  Passing  onwards, 
between  some  well-cleared  properties,  my  vehicle  at 
length  turned  up  a  road  to  the  left,  of  a  considerably 
more  rude  description.  Houses  were  seemingly  left 
behind.  On  each  side  nothing  was  to  be  seen  but  trees. 
At  length  we  came  to  openings  in  the  woods ;  pasture- 
lands  made  their  appearance ;  and  there,  on  a  charming 
spot  on  the  ascending  braes,  backed  by  the  mountain- 


TORONTO CANADA- WEST. 


119 


cliffs,  was   seen  the  neat  residence  of  the  venerable 
agriculturist.    It  need  hardly  be  said  that  Mr  Ferguson 
pohtely  explained  the  nature  of  his  past   operations, 
and  shewed  me  some  of  the  more  important  features 
of  his  property  and  management.     He  owns  here  300 
acres,  160  of  which  are  in  crop ;  the  whole  being  dis- 
posed in  regularly  shaped  fields  of  about  20  acres  in 
each.     Except  a  small  patch  of  cleared  land,  the  whole, 
when  purchased,  was  under  timber.    Only  so  much  wood 
now  remams  as  serves  for  ornament  and  use,  and  all 
that  testifies  to  the  original  condition  of  the  farm  are 
the  tree-stumps  which  are  not  gone  from  some  of  the 
fields.     Standing  in  the  veranda  of  Woodliill,  and  over- 
looking a   garden,    orchard,  green  lawns,   and  arable 
enclosures,  with  the  shelter  of  environing  trees,  and 
the  blue  expanse  of  Ontario  shining  in  the  distance,  I 
thought  there  could  be  nothing  finer  in  the  Carse  of 
Gt)wrie;  nor  did  an  idea  fail  to  cross  my  mind,  that 
the  acquisition  and  improvement  of  such  an  enjoyable 
estate  at  a  moderate  outlay,  in  this  part  of  the  world, 
was  surely  preferable  to  the  costly  and  unremunerative 
purchases  of  land,  with  all  its  tormenting  obligations, 
in  the  old  country.    Here  was  a  nice  httle  estate,  fertile 
in  soil,  genial  in  aspect,  with  no  burdens  or  respon- 
sibilities worth  mentioning,  situated  within  an  hour's 
drive  of  society  as  good  as  may  be  procured  in  most 
parts  of  England  or  Scotland,  and  yet  the  whole  extem- 
porised for  comparatively  a  trifle !     A  lovely  spot  for  a 
rural  residence  has  been  selected.     The  house  occupies 
a  flattish  plateau,  which  had  formed  the   margin   of 
Ontario,  when  its  waters  were  bounded  by  the  chffy 
range  to  which  I  formerly  called  attention.      Part  of 
Mr  Ferguson's  property  lies   on  the  high  table-land 
above  the  clifls,  and  to  this  he  obhgingly  conducted 
me— here  descanting  on  his  operations  concerning  his 
improved  breeds  of  cattle,  and  there  pointing  out   a 


■f  ~  *f 


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':        1 

§ 

1     M 

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■     f" 

ii  i 

r 

i  1 
L  . 

i 

120 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


field  of  remaxkable  turnips,  which  had  very  much 
surprised  the  neighbourhood.  In  these  explorations,  it 
was  necessary  to  clamber  over  sundry  rail-fences,  the 
peculiar  merits  of  which  were  now  practically  explained 
to  me.  Rails  piled  horizontally  in  a  zigzag  form  are, 
as  is  well  known,  the  universal  fence  in  America ;  and 
of  all  imaginable  methods  of  enclosing  a  field,  none, 
it  seems,  is  so  simple,  cheap,  and  ready,  where  wood 
happens  to  be  abundant.  By  splitting  a  small-sized 
tree  lengthwise,  two  or  three  rails  are  obtained. 
Taking  a  quantity  of  such  rough  spars,  twelve  feet 
long,  they  are  laid  diagonally,  and  crossed  alternately 
on  others  at  the  ends,  so  as  to  have  a  mutual  hold. 
When  piled  three  feet  high,  two  tall  props  are  crossed 
through  them,  at  the  points  of  junction,  and  then  a  few 
more  rails  are  added,  making  a  fence  about  four  feet  in 
height.  No  tools  and  no  nails  are  employed  in  the 
construction.  When  completed,  much  space  is  lost  to 
the  field  by  the  breadth  of  the  zigzags,  but  land  is  so 
cheap  that  this  is  not  of  much  consequence,  A  fence 
of  this  picturesque  appearance  wiU  endure  ten  years, 
and  cost  little  at  any  time  to  repair.  I  was  told,  that 
it  is  considered  an  essential  point  in  farming,  to  have 
as  much  growing  timber  as  ^viii  supply  rails  and  fire- 
wood; and,  consequently,  to  buy  land  in  America 
altogether  free  from  trees  would  be  considered  an 
injudicious  speculation. 

In  the  com'se  of  our  ramble,  Mr  Ferguson  spoke 
with  confidence  on  the  subject  of  emigration,  and 
pointed  out  the  many  ways  in  which  men  in  humble 
circumstances  would  be  sure  to  improve  their  condition 
and  prospects  by  transferring  themselves  to  tins  new 
country.  He  mentioned  the  case  of  one  of  his  plough- 
men, who,  by  the  savings  of  a  few  years,  had  at  length 
purchased  a  farm  of  100  acres,  from  wliicli,  among 
other  products,  he  would  in  the  current  year  realise 


TORONTO— CANADA-WEST. 


121 


a  field,  none, 
T.  -where  wood 


's,  twelve  feet 


.£150  for  firewood.  Now,  this  man,  who  was  in  the 
way  of  attaining  an  independent,  and  was  already  in  a 
comfortable  position,  would,  if  he  had  remained  in 
Scotland,  have  been  stiU  drudging  as  a  species  of  serf 
at  a  mean  wage,  hving  in  a  cottage  scarcely  fit  for  a 
human  habitation,  and  Avith  no  prospect  in  his  old  age 
but  to  depend  on  the  charity  of  his  children  or  the 
alms  of  the  parish !  When  one  hears  of  and  sees  such 
marked  changes  of  condition,  by  removal  to  Canada, 
or  the  Western  States  of  America,  the  wonder,  as  I 
observed  to  Mr  Ferguson,  is  that  any  rural  labourers 
at  aU  remain  in  Great  Britain ;  and  he  agreed  with  me, 
that  nothing  but  want  of  information  and  deficiency  of 
means,  could  account  for  their  not  fleeing  to  a  country 
where  their  eii'cumstances  would  be  so  speedily  and 
permanently  improved. 

Another  short  excursion  I  made  from  Hamilton  was 
to  Dimdas,  a  village  a  few  miles  distant,  and  situated 
in  a  hoUow  on  a  short  canal  which  commimicctes  with 
Bmlington  Bay.  This  is  one  of  the  busiest  little  towns 
in  Canada ;  and  the  inspiring  genius  of  the  place  was 
seemingly  Mr  J.  B.  Ewart,  with  whom  I  had  crossed 
the  Atlantic,  and  who  had  invited  me  to  see  his 
various  establishments,  consisting  of  grist-mills,  an 
iron-foundry,  and  some  farms  devoted  to  the  breeding 
and  improvement  of  stock.  The  mills  were  at  the  time 
grinding  wheat  on  a  large  scale,  and  by  improvements 
in  mechanism,  the  flour  was  cooled,  barrelled,  and 
branded  with  surprisiag  rapidity.  In  the  iron-founding 
estabhshments,  steam-engines  and  other  kinds  of 
machinery  were  in  the  course  of  manufacture;  and  I 
was  told  that  mill- work  for  grinding  flour  could  not 
be  made  fast  enough  for  the  demand.  Mr  Ewart 
referred  with  satisfaction  to  the  steadiness  and  respect- 
able habits  of  the  workmen,  who  receive  from  a  third 
to  a  fourth  higher  wages  than  are  usually  paid  in 


1 


1S3 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


I 


England.  Many  of  them,  lie  said,  had  saved  a  good 
deal  of  money,  and  become  the  proprietors  of  neat 
little  houses,  surrounded  with  gardens  and  pieces  of  land. 
I  regret  to  say  that,  since  my  return  home,  I  have  heard 
of  the  death  of  Mr  Ewart,  by  whose  enterprise  so 
much  good  has  been  done  in  tliis  busy  locality. 

At  the  period  of  my  visit,  the  whole  countiy  was 
agitated  by  the  high  price  paid  for  flour,  chiefly  for 
consumption   in   England;    vast   exports   were   taking 
place;    and  so  plentiful  had  money  become,  that  the 
farmers   had    everywhere    paid    off   their   mortgages, 
and   contemplated   the   extension   of  their  properties. 
Hamilton,   as  a  place  of  import  and   export   for  the 
western    countiy,    was    participating    in  tlie    general 
prosperity,  and  in  a  state  of  excitement  on  account  of 
the  opening  of  the  first  portion  of  the  Great  Western 
Railway,  which  took  place  tlie  day  before  my  departure. 
Since  that  time,  the  line  has  been  completed  to  Windsor, 
on  the  St  Clair  river,  opposite  Detroit ;  so  that  traveUers 
may  now,  in  the  space  of  six  hours,  perform  a  journey 
which,  in  a  hired   conveyance,  occupied  me  nearly  as 
many  days. 

On  the  morning  of  my  departure,  while  waiting  at 
the  door  of  the  hotel  for  the  approach  of  the  wagon— a 
species  of  two-horse  chaise,  open  in  front— which  was 
to  carry  my  friend  and  myself  on  our  way  westwards, 
a  stranger  seemed  to  linger  about  as  if  desirous  of 
addressing  me,  but  diffident  as  to  how  he  should  set 
about  it.  The  appearance  of  the  wagon  inspired  him 
with  the  necessary  corn-age.  With  a  kind  of  convulsive 
efibrt,  he  said  he  had  come  a  number  of  miles  to  try  to 
see  and  invite  me  to  his  house,  and  forthwith  he  related 
his  whole  history,  in,  what  was  to  me  very  pleasing,  the 
soft  dialect  of  Teviotdale.  He  had  come  to  the  country 
sixteen  years  ago,  with  his  father  and  two  brothers, 
'wi' very  little  in  theii-  pockets,  and  they  had  done  real 


TORONTO — CANADA- WEST. 


123 


weel — lie  wadna,  at  this  day,  tak  seventeen  hundred 
pounds  for  what  he  was  worth,  and  he  had  credit  for 
thousands !  Ah,  sir,'  he  continued,  '  this  is  a  grand 
country  for  folk  that  will  work,  and  hae  the  sense  to 
ken  how  to  manage.  Now,  you  sec,  you  must  come 
and  see  us  the  morn,  when  you  gang  througii  the  town- 
ship of  Dumfries,  and  I'll  be  watching  for  you  wi'  the 
wagon/  'Many  Scotch  in  your  quarter''  I  asked. 
'  Hundreds ;  at  the  kirk  at  Gait,  on  a  Sabbath,  you 
would  hardly  ken  you  were  frae  hame ! ' 

Promising  that  I  should  endeavour  to  see  this  new 
acquaintance  in  the  course  of  next  day's  journey,  I  set 
off  for  Guelph,  a  town  at  the  distance  of  thirty-five 
miles  north  from  Hamilton.  After  passing  Dundas, 
and  ascending  to  the  higher  level  of  the  country, 
things  gradually  assumed  a  more  primitive  appearance. 
Cleared  lands  in  stump,  with  neat  wooden  houses  and 
bams,  alternated  with  masses  of  forest,  untouched  by 
the  axe,  and  through  wliich  the  road  proceeded.  Occa- 
sionally, we  passed  portions  of  land,  on  ^\  hich  the  trees 
were  felled,  and  in  process  of  being  dragged  together 
in  heaps  to  be  burned.  In  one  place,  I  observed  a 
whole  family,  husband,  wife,  and  children,  engaged  in 
the  toilsome  occupation  of  gathering  the  scattered 
limbs  and  boughs;  and  their  clearing  of  a  few  acres 
was  dotted  over  with  piles  of  burning  timber,  which 
sent  up  clouds  of  smoke  into  the  atmosphere.  It  was 
piteous  to  see  so  much  valuable  wood  remorselessly 
consumed  j  but  with  no  economic  means  of  transport, 
the  destruction  is  inevitable.  In  the  less  advanced 
situations,  the  original  log-huts  had  not  yet  given  place 
to  dwellings  of  a  better  order;  nor  would  they,  with 
prudent  settlers,  till  their  farms  had  been  got  into  a 
good  state  of  cidture,  and  a  redundancy  of  cash  was  at 
disposal.  At  inten^als  along  the  road,  we  passed  com- 
fortable-looking country  iims,  with  sign-boards  swinging 


•  I 


^^B 

i 
1 
1 

i 

j^^^K 

■ 

■- 

; 

i                       \  i 
■                         *  !1 

^^B'l 

■  ■  '4 

'if' 

^■SB 

■    I 

^^^^^p 

!l 

^^I^H 

1 

^^^^^^^1 

li 

^^^H 

1 

■ 

^    1; 

12i 


XniNGS  AS  THEY  AllE  IN  AMERICA. 


on  taU  poles  in  tlie  genuine  English  style;  and  at  every 
village  there  were  seen  the  blacksmith  and  carpenter's 
shops,  at  whicli  agricultural  implements,  wagons,  and 
other  articles  were  in  course  of  construction.  Wherever 
there  was  a  smaU  river  with  a  fall  of  water,  a  gi-ist-miU 
made  its  appearance,  with  the  encoui'aging  announce- 
ment painted  in  black  letters  on  a  white  ground  across 
Its  front— 'Cash  for  wheat;'  and  as  such  concerns  are 
found  aU  over  the  country,  it  may  be  said  that  no 
farmer  needs  to  travel  far  from  his  home  in  search  of 
a  market. 

In  approaching  Guelph,  the  aspect  of  affairs  mended; 
and  on   a  rising-ground  on  the  small  river  Speed,  a 
tributary  of  Grand  River,  were  observed  a  handsome 
church,  and  a  cluster  of  good  houses,  with  stores  and 
hotels— the  rudiments,  possibly,  of  a  large  city;  for  the 
place  is  to  be  a  principal  railway-station.     Until  1827, 
the  site  of  Guelph  was  an  uncleared  forest,  and  during 
the  last  seven  years  its  population  has  increased  from 
700  to  1860.     Having  dined,  and  made  some  inquiries 
at  this  thriving  little  toivn,  we  proceeded  in  a  southerly 
direction  towards  Gait,  which  we  hoped  to  reach  before 
nightfall.     But  in  this  expectation  we  were  doomed  to 
be   disappointed.     Pursuing  our  course   along  a  soft 
and  ill-made  road,  bounded  by  the  everiasting  zigzag 
fences,  darkness  dropped  her  mantle  over  the  scene; 
and  being   afraid   of  some    impleasant   consequences' 
threatened  to  the  ear  by  the  dash  of  water,  it  was  not 
without  a  feeling  of  thankfulness  that  we  recognised 
the  cheerful  light  of  a  roadside-inn,  where  we  received 
shelter  for  the  night. 

This  incident  was  not  displeasing  on  other  accounts. 
I  was  afforded  an  opportunity  of  extending  my  know- 
ledge of  houses  of  pubHc  enteri;ainment  in  Canada. 
On  aU  the  public  roads,  houses  of  this  kind  ai'e  con- 
veniently  stationed  at  intervals  of  from   six   to  ten 


TORONTO CANADA-WEST. 


125 


miles,  and  if  not  fine,  they  will,  as  far  as  my  experience 
goes,  be  found  clean,  respectable,  and  moderate  as 
respects  charges.  On  the  present  occasion,  for  the 
accommodation  of  a  small  sitting-room,  warmed  by  a 
stove,  tea,  and  beds  for  two  persons,  the  charge  was 
only  four  English  shillings ;  and  when  I  liquidated  the 
demand  by  paying  a  small  gold  dollar,  the  simple  and 
good-natured  girl,  daughter  of  the  landlord,  who 
attended,  was  so  delighted  with  the  beautiful  coin,  that 
she  declared  she  would  retain  it  as  a  keepsake. 

Next  morning,  the  excursion  was  continued  down 
the  valley  of  Grand  River,  the  country  becoming  more 
picturesque  as  we  advanced.    Passing  through  a  district 
settled  by  Germans,  who,  possessed  of  good  houses, 
cleared  fields,  and  carrying  on  various  trades,  seemed 
to   be  in   a  prosperous   condition,  we   reached   Doon 
Mills,  Avhere  the  view  was  exceedingly  charming,  and 
which,  from  the  hospitality  we  received,  -will  remain 
pleasingly  imprinted  on  my  remembrance.     The  whole 
of  the  country  in  this  quarter,  composing  the  township 
of   Dumfries,    from    the    iiregularity   of   surface    and 
natural  fertility  of  the  soil,  is  not  only  beautiful,  but 
very  productive.      By  its   communication   with   Lake 
Erie,  the  Grand  River  offers  an  additional  recommend- 
ation   to    this    part    of  the    country.      Gait,   prettily 
situated  on  both  sides  of  this  river,  is  environed  with 
rising-grounds,  on  which  handsome  \411as  are  erected; 
and  in  looking  about,  we  almost  feel  as  if  we  were  on 
the  banks  of  the  Tweed.     My  friend  of  the  day  before 
taking  care  to  be  on  the  outlook,  obligingly  conducted 
me    through    the    place,    and  furnished    some    useful 
explanations,  though  I  could  not  afford  time  to  gratify 
his   desire  by  visiting  his  settlement   at   some  miles' 
distance.     Besides  some  large  mills.  Gait  has  an  estab- 
lishment for  the    manufacture    of  edge-tools,   which 
possess  a  high  reputation.     I  learned  here  what  was 


120 


TIIINOS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


I  ! 


afterwai-ds  confirmed  in  the  States,  that  England  cannot 
produce  a^es  adapted  for  cutting  dov.-n  trees,  and  had 
therefore  lost  a  considerable  trade  in  tlie  article;  and 
that  tJie  failure  arose  from  no  deficiency  in  tl.>  material 
employee ,  but  from  the  English  manufacturer  veva 
tiously  disregai-ding  the  exact  model  on  .vhich  this 
remarkaUe    kind    of  axe    requires  to   be   made-tL 

useless.  Gait  has  mcreascd  from  1000  to  2248  inhabit, 
ants  m  five  years,  and  like  every  to.m  of  its  size,  has 
t^^o  ncM'spapcrs-many  towns  of  similar  dimensions  in 
threat  Britam,  a  thousand  years  old,  not  being  able  to 
support  a  smgle  product  of  the  press;  or  more  properly, 
not  bemg  allowed  to  do  so,  in  consequence  of  the 
pressm-e  of  fiscal  exactions. 

The  valley  of  Grand  Eivcr  continues  rich  and  beauti- 
ful  all  the  way  to  Lake  Erie,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
densely  populated  parts  of  Canada.    Brantford,  situated 
sixty  imles  up  the  river  from  its  mouth,  is  a  town  of 
growmg  importance,  and  the  country  which  stretches 
ma  westerly  dn-cction  from  it  towards  Paris  is  highly 
esteemed  tor  its  fertUity.     In  going  from  Gait  to  Paris, 
i^e  obtani  a  view  of  this  remarkably  fine  district,  con- 
sisting of  green  and  rich  meadow-lands,  such  as  are 
common  m   Essex.     At   Paris,  a  town  situated  in  a 
ho  low  at  the  confluence  of  two  rivers,  we  come  upon 
a  hirge  w;ork   of  art-a  viaduct   bearing  the  raihvay 
^■luch  IS  m  course  of  construction  from  the  Niagara 
Biyer,  opposite  Buffido,  by  way  of  Brantfin-d  to  Gode- 
ricli   on  Lake  Erie,  by  which  a  splendid  region  in  the 
north-west  will  soon  be  opened  for  traffic.     Not  to  tire 
by  a  tedious  accomit  of  movements,  we  proceeded  by 
Woodstock~0  these  odious  imported  designations  l-i 
to  London,  on  the  Thames   (!)   a  city  on  tlie  Great 
Western  Railway,  and  the  centre  of  a  district  not  to  be 
surpassed  tor  agricultm'd  pm-poses.     Situated  within  a 


TORONTO — CANADA-WEST. 


127 


moderate  distance  of  Port-Stanley,  on  Lake  Erie,  and 
l)laced  almost  in  the  centre  of  the  Canadian  peninsula, 
I  have  always  regarded  the  vicinity  of  London  as  one 
of  the  most  advantageous  districts  for  settlement.     Yet, 
in  a  country  abounding  in  so  many  available  localities, 
it  is  hard  to  say  how  far  one  is  better  than  another. 
It  is  clear,  from  a  very  slight  inspection,  that  in  the 
districts  tlu-ough  which  I  had  been  travelling,  there  are 
thousands    of  places    still    but   partially   cleared   and 
improved,  A^'llich  are  destined  to  aflPord  a  home  to  a 
large    population;     and    the    taking    possession    and 
improvement  of  such  places  may  be  said  to  be  going 
on  before  our  eyes.     Penetrated  now  by  two  railways, 
which  will  unquestionably  form  the  main  channels  of 
trafiic  between  New  York  and  Michigan,  the  peninsula 
cannot  fail  to  drav/  towards  it  a  crowd  of  enterprising 
settlers.     The   progress   made,  independently  of  such 
attractions,  has  not  many  parallels.     In  thirty  years, 
the  district  around  London  has  increased  in  population 
550  per  cent.     London  itself,  begim  only  in  1827,  now 
numbers  20,000  inhabitants,  6000  of  whom  have  been 
added   in  three   years.     In   this  well-built   and   busy 
town,  there   are   seen  numerous  lai'ge  manufacturing 
and  commercial  establishments;  trade  is  going  ahead 
at  a  great  rate ;  villas  are  extending  themselves  in  the 
neighbom-hood;  and  the  farmers,  rendered  more  than 
ever  alert   by   the  increasing  value   of  produce,   are 
pusliing  on  their  conquests  at  an  accelerated  speed— 
the  whole  locality  exhibiting  a  kind  of  race  of  pros- 
perity,   exceedingly    diverting    to    an    onlooker.      'A 
person  cannot  help  doing  well  here,  if  he  has  any  sense 
at  alV  said  an  intelligent  resident  in  speaking  of  the 
place;  and  I  b  ^ieve  him;  at  the  same  time  admitting, 
that  It  would  be  difficult  to  say  where,  in  tliis  great 
country,  a  man  of  fair  industry  and  steadiness  could 

not  COnsiflfvnIilu  hnffov  Ijic  ^I'v ,„i.^„ 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


i 

:Jlill 

flH 

' 

i 

» 

i 

.  7n  ' 

Ji  i 


CANADA-WEST     TO     MICHIGAN. 

Six-AND-THiRTY  YEARS  ago,  wheu  macliinery  had  dealt 
a  death-blow  to  the  profession  of  the  handloom- weaver, 
one  of  the  many  victims  of  that  disastrous  improvement 
was  a  sturdy  little  man,  whom  I  remember  to  have 
seen  driving  his  shuttle  in  a  humble  workshop  in  a 
small  town  on  the  banks  of  the  Tweed.  Instead  of 
repining,  or  continuing  the  vain  attempt  to  wring  a 
subsistence  out  of  his  exploded  craft,  this  capital 
specimen  of  an  indomitable  Scot  sold  his  loom,  paid  his 
debts,  and  with  wife  and  children  sailed  for  America. 
Arriving  in  pretty  nearly  a  penniless  condition,  he 
made  his  way,  as  I  had  heard,  to  the  London  district 
of  Canada,  where  he  settled  and  was  still  living 

While  I  remained  in  London,  I  made  inquiries 
respecting  the  present  position  of  this  exiled  victim 
of  the  power-loom,  and  was  glad  to  learn  that  it  was 
highly  respectable.  Curious  to  see  what  actual  pro- 
gress he  had  made,  I  paid  a  visit  to  his  residence, 
which  was  situated  six  or  seven  miles  distant.  Although 
vastly  improved  in  worldly  circumstances,  I  found  him 
living  in  the  same  log-hut,  which  he  had  reared  on  his 
arrival  in  the  country,  upwards  of  thu'ty  years  ago. 
His  settlement,  which  was  situated  down  one  of  the 
concession  or  cross  roads  leading  from  the  main  tho- 
roughfare, was  bounded  by  raD -fences,  in  which  a  rude 
gateway  admitted  me  to  an  orchard  fronting  the  house. 


CANADA-WEST  TO  MICHIGAN. 


129 


ery  had  dealt 
loom-weaver, 
improvement 
iber  to  have 
)rkshop  ill  a 
Instead  of 
;  to  wring  a 

this  capital 
3om,  paid  his 
for  America, 
iondition,  he 
ndon  district 
ving 

ide  inquiries 
jxiled  victim 
L  that  it  was 

actual  pro- 
is  residence, 
t.  Although 
I  found  him 
•eared  on  his 
T  years  ago. 
L  one  of  the 
e  main  tho- 
7hich  a  rude 
Iff  the  house. 


near  which  were  bams,  and  other  buildings,  whoUy  of 
wood.  My  appearance  created  quite  a  sensation  in 
the  establishment,  and  there  was  a  rush  to  the  door  to 
receive  and  give  me  a  hearty  welcome.  In  a  minute, 
I  was  in  the  interior,  seated  before  a  huge  fire  of 
blazing  fagots  on  the  hearth,  over  which  hung  several 
pots  sending  a  savoury  steam  up  the  capacious  chimney. 
The  patriarch  of  the  household,  eighty  years  of  age, 
but  as  full  of  spirit  as  ever,  sat  in  an  arm-chair  on  one 
side,  while  the  mother  of  the  family  seated  herself 
opposite.  A  daughter  acted  as  maiden-of-all-work,  and 
hung  about  listening  to  inquiries  respecting  the  country 
whence  the  family  had  emigrated  long  before  she  was 
born.  As  if  signalled  by  an  electric-telegraph,  several 
tall  and  stout  sons  soon  made  their  appearance,  from 
their  respective  dwellings  in  the  neighbourhood.  The 
old  man's  story,  which  he  dealt  out  along  with  jocular 
reminiscences  of  'auld  langsyne,'  had  in  it  nothing 
singular,  but  was  nevertheless  valuable,  as  offering  an 
example  of  what  any  earnest-minded  and  self-denying 
man  may  do  in  the  western  world. 

'  When  I  came  to  this  spot,'  said  he,  '  there  was  not 
a  house  for  miles  around — London  was  not  built.  The 
country  was  all  forest.  I  helped  to  make  the  concession- 
road  which  you  came  by,  for  which  service  government 
gave  me  a  grant  of  some  land.  It  was  dreadful  hard 
work  at  first,  and  as  the  children  were  young,  I  had  to 
do  everything  myself  Before  I  procured  a  horse,  I 
had  to  carr^  grain  on  my  back  for  miles  to  be  ground. 
But  having  good  health,  I  never  complained.  It  won't 
do  to  sit  down  and  cry.  Push  ahead,  and  keep  on 
never  minding,  is  here  the  great  doctrine.  As  the 
family  grew  up,  I  could  take  things  a  little  easier,  and 
now  can  look  about  me  at  some  improvements.  I  have 
a  capital  farm  of  one  hundred  acres,  cleared,  and  imder 
Ti  ^  |j-^|.__^- J  fv ^  ^^  vounsest  son.  when  I  am 


^x 


up. 


XS/ 


juauu  ior  my  youngest  son, 


r 

f 

1 

i 

f 
i         ' 

! 

1 

1 

I'll 

l« 

1 

1    1 

180 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


m 


gone.  My  three  elder  sons  have  each  a  good  farm  of 
the  same  size.  We  are  now  a  kind  of  clan,  with  plenty 
of  everything — horses,  cattle,  sheep,  pigs,  and  poultry.* 

'And  no  want  of  apples,'  said  I,  glancing  upward  at 
the  numerous  festoons  of  dried  fruit  which  hung  from 
the  ceiling. 

'O  yes,  that  orchard  at  the  door  is  of  my  own 
planting,  and  it  is  very  productive.  No  want  of 
puddings,  I  can  tell  you,  for  we  also  make  our  own 
sugar;  and,  in  fact,  we  scarcely  need  to  buy  anything. 
Very  different  from  the  days  when  I  was  on  the  loom, 
and  the  goodwife  had  to  contrive  how  to  make  both 
ends  meet.* 

'And  had  you  remained  in  that  situation,'  I  observed, 
'these  sons  of  yours  would  probably  have  been  day- 
labourers  at  twelve  shillings  a  week.  That  is  the  wage 
now  going  in  your  old  neighbourhood.* 

'You  hear  that,  lads,'  said  the  old  man.  'You  see 
how  thankful  you  should  be  for  your  mercies.  It  was 
a  blessed  thing  I  came  away.' 

'  I  suppose  your  sons  are  doing  very  well  with  their 
farms;  they  are  probably  good  ploughmen  ?' 

'  No  doubt  of  it ;  and  one  of  them,  who  has  a  turn 
for  mechanics,  has  made  a  machine  for  peeling  apples.' 

'  That  must  be  curious ;  T  should  like  to  see  it.' 

Immediately  there  was  brought  from  a  recess  an 
ingenious  piece  of  mechanism,  not  unlike  an  old- 
fashioned  spinning-wheel.  An  apple  having  been  stuck 
on  the  point  of  a  spindle,  and  a  curved  knife  being 
held  to  it,  it  was  stripped  of  its  skin  by  a  few  turns  of 
the  wheel;  and  another  machine,  with  equal  speed, 
took  from  it  the  core.  I  was  much  amused  with  these 
devices  for  peeling  frait  on  a  great  scale,  but  afterwards 
found  that  such  apple-machines  were  common  all  over 
the  States.  It  was  finally  explained  to  me,  that  the 
ob.iect  of  these  operations  was  in  T»rPTini<A  nr>r>loa  fr^y 


^ood  farm  of 
,  with  plenty 
-nd  poultry.* 
ig  upward  at 
h.  hung  from 

of  my  own 
L^o  want  of 
-ke  our  own 
uy  anything, 
m  the  loom, 
)  make  both 

'  I  observed, 
e  been  day- 
t  is  the  wage 

u  'You  see 
3ies.     It  was 

11  with  their 

I* 

D  has  a  turn 
ing  apples.* 
see  it/ 
a  recess  an 
ike  an  old- 
?  been  stuck 
knife  being 
few  turns  of 
jqual  speed, 
d  with  these 
t  afterwards 
non  all  over 
le,  that  the 
!  apples  for 


CANADA-WEST  TO  MICHIGAN. 


181 


winter  use.  Being  cut  in  pieces,  stnmg  together  on 
threads,  and  hung  up  in  a  warm  kitchen,  the  apples  will 
keep  sound  all  winter;  and  though  a  little  shrivelled 
and  diied  in  appearance,  they  make  as  good  puddings 
as  if  they  had  been  freshly  peeled.  So  far  as  I  am 
aware,  this  method  of  preserving  apples  for  culinary 
purposes  is  not  known  or  practised  in  England. 

It  must  be  owned,  that  the  general  aspect  of  affairs 
in  and  about  the  emigrant's  dwelling  was  not  of  that 
refined    character  which   one  might  reasonably  have 
looked  for  after  so  many  years  of  laborious  and  success- 
ful industry.     But  if  things  were  somewhat  Robinson 
Crusoeish,  the   circumstance  is  explained  by  original 
habits,  though  chiefly  by  the  spare  capital  having  been 
expended   in    extending    the  family  possessions.     In 
short,  it  would  have  been  easy  for  the  aged  proprietor 
to  have  built  a  fine  mansion  for  himself;  but  he  pre- 
ferred, he  said,  seeing  his  family  settled  comfortably; 
although  he  doubtless  carried  his  principles  in  this 
respect  a  little  too  far. 

There  was  much  lamentation  at  the  sliortness  of  my 
stay;  and  when  I  departed,  the  whole  household  stood 
around  the  door  to  see  me  drive  off,  which  it  required 
some  dexterity  to  accomplish  without  doing  damage  to 
several  families  of  black  pigs— genuine  Hampshire 
brocks,  as  I  took  them  to  be— which  were  strolling 
about  in  the  diligent  pursuit  of  apples  and  other 
windfalls. 

I  made  some  other  visits  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
London,  and  should  have  been  glad  to  have  made  more, 
had  time  permitted;  but  a  sudden  snap  of  extremely 
cold  weather  and  a  slight  faU  of  snow,  admonished  me 
that  it  was  time  to  hasten  southwards.  Accordingly, 
I  made  up  my  mind  to  do  so,  on  reaching  Detroit  in 
Michigan,  for  which  I  now  prepa:'ed  to  set  out  in  a 
conveyance   similar  to  the  one  that  had  brought  me 


'"^ 


>l\ 


I 


132 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


to  the  place.     My  design  was  to  proceed  from  London 
to  Chatham,  a  town  ou  the  lower  part  of  the  Thames, 
whence  there  are  steamers  to  Detroit  j  hut  some  infor- 
mation respecting  the  badness  of  the  roads  deterred  me 
from  the  attempt,  and  I  ultimately  adopted  the  route 
to  Sarnia,  a  small  port  on  the  St  Clair  river,  near  the 
foot  of  Lake  Huron.     After  all,  I  imagine  I  gained 
nothing   by  this   arrangement,    so   far   as   comfort   in 
travelling  is  concerned.     The  distance  was  sixty  miles, 
which  were  promised  to  be  perfonned  in  twelve  hours, 
but  were   net,   in  reality,  done  in  less  than  sixteen. 
Already,   I   had    obtained    some    knowledge    of    the 
Canadian  roads,  and  now  completed  this  branch  of  my 
education.     In  one  or  two  places  I  have  spoken  of  toll- 
bars,  and  from  this  it  may  perhaps  be  supposed  that 
the  roads  are   generally  macadamised,   and  tolerably 
good.     They   are   so   in  the  neighbourhood  of  large 
towns,   but   as   soon   as  tolls  disappear,  the  traveller 
begins  to  observe  a  strange  faUing  off  in  the  quality  of 
the  thoroughfares.    Any  attempt  at  laying  down  broken 
stones  to  form  a  hard  basis  seems  not  to  be  thought  of; 
the  natural  surface,  be  it  sand  or  clay,  is  left  to  take 
its    chance;    and  vehicles    go    plunging   along,    as   if 
struggling  across  a  rough  and  newly  ploughed  field. 
After  rains,  the   case  is  dismal:   the  wheels  sink  to 
nearly  the  axles ;  and  in  spite  of  inconceivable  toil,  the 
poor  horses  are  unable  to  make  more  than  two  to  three 
miles   an  hour.     Where  the  ground  is  swampy,  and 
there  would  be  a  risk  of  sinking  utterly  out  of  sight, 
trees  are  laid  across  the  path;  and  over  these  corduroyed 
parts    of  the    road,   the   carriage   goes   securely,   but 
bumpingly,  in  a  very  unpleasant  way.     The  best  tho- 
roughfares of  all  are  the  plank-ioaAs;  which  I  had  never 
heard  of  till  I  reached  Canada.     These  are  stretches 
of  road  covered  with  a  flooring  of  thick  deals  laid  on 
joisting ;  the  dealiS  being  smooth,  as  from  the  saw,  and 


CANADA-WEST  TO  MICHIGAN. 


133 


the  whole  laid  so  evenly,  that  carriages  are  drawn  over 
them  in  beautiful  style.  These  plank-roads  are  usually 
joint-stock  undertakings,  or  belong  to  municipalities, 
and  are  established  by  act  of  the  provincial  parliament, 
with  power  to  erect  turnpike-gates  and  exact  tolls.  The 
appearance  of  these  toll-bars  is  hailed  with  inexpressible 
delight  by  the  traveller,  for  he  knows  that  on  reaching 
them  there  is  an  end,  for  ten  or  twelve  miles  at  least, 
of  the  jolts  and  jumbles  with  which  he  has  for  some 
time  been  afflicted.  With  such  practical  experience  of 
Canadian  roads,  one  can  easily  understand  the  longing 
for  snow  in  mnter,  when  the  sleighs  are  driven  along 
■with  the  velocity  of  the  wind;  for  then  only  is  extended 
intercourse  conducted  with  anything  like  pleasure. 
Railways,  of  course,  will  noAV  change  all  this,  and 
render  travelling  as  easy  in  Canada  as  it  is  in  England ; 
at  the  same  time  opening  up  and  developing  the 
resources  of  the  country  to  an  extent  that  could  not 
otherwise  have  been  anticipated. 

With  this  short  explanation,  the  reader  will  imagine 
he  sees  a  two-horse  vehicle,  open  in  front,  in  which  are 
seated  two  travellers  wrapped  in  woollen  plaids,  their 
knees  shrouded  in  a  thick  buffalo-skin,  and  thick 
shawls  wrapped  round  their  necks ;  before  them  is  the 
driver,  a  young  man  in  a  rough  jacket,  with  coarse 
boots  drawn  with  studied  slovenliness  over  his  trousers, 
so  that  these  voluminous  garments  stick  out  all  round 
in  a  singularly  free-and-easy  way.  The  air  is  cold;  a 
thin  coating  of  snow  has  fallen,  and  partially  conceals 
the  treacherous  ruts;  the  sides  of  the  roads  are  in 
places  fenced  with  zigzag  rails ;  but  in  others  there  is 
no  fence  at  aU,  and  the  thoroughfare  is  bounded  on 
both  sides  for  miles  by  thick  tangled  forests,  composed 
of  beech,  maple,  oak,  and  other  hardwood  trees  now 
greatly  stripped  of  their  leaves,  and  amidst  which  the 
pines    and    other    evergreens    tower  in   dark  masses. 


134 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


m 


ijji 


i<  s: 


affording  an  agreeable  relief  to  the  eye.  Leaving  the 
town  of  London  in  early  morning,  the  wagon  thus  goes 
on  its  way:  at  first  smartly  and  encouragingly;  then  more 
moderately,  with  sundry  admonitory  jerks ;  and  lastly, 
it  stumbles  on  in  a  very  alarming  manner,  the  horses 
now  getting  into  a  trot,  then  lapsing  to  a  walk,  and 
always  meandering  from  side  to  side,  to  seek  out  good 
bits  wherever  they  can  be  found.  Canadian  horses, 
however,  have  immense  spirit;  and  as  you  may  rest 
assured  they  will  get  tlu-ough  some  way  or  other, 
there  is  nothing  to  fear.  We  had  at  anyrate  a  whole 
day  before  us,  and  the  novelty  of  the  scene  was  so 
exhilarating,  that  if  no  fresh  fall  of  snow  occurred, 
there  was  little  cause  for  disquietude. 

During  this  protracted  day's  ride,  I  had  an  opportunity 
of  seeing  a  tract  of  country  of  comparatively  recent 
settlement.  There  were  no  towns  and  few  villages  on 
the  road.  At  intervals  of  one  to  two  miles,  in  the 
midst  of  clearings,  we  passed  solitary  houses,  which,  as 
usual,  were  of  wood,  sometimes  neatly  constructed  and 
painted,  and  sometimes  only  log-huts,  of  recent  erection. 
Occasionally,  there  were  inns,  adjoining  which  might 
be  seen  a  blacksmith's  and  carpenter's  shop.  The 
greater  part  of  the  land  seemed  to  be  of  good  quality, 
and  well  adapted  for  cultivation.  At  one  of  the  inns 
where  we  stopped,  we  learned  that  much  of  the  district 
had  been  settled  a  number  of  years  ago  by  half-pay 
officers,  who,  after  clearing  portions  of  their  properties, 
and  otherwise  exhausting  their  means,  got  disheartened, 
and  left  the  place.  Those  who  could  not  sell  their 
farms,  let  them  to  new  and  more  hardy  settlers,  and 
these  continued  in  possession  till  they  had  realised 
enough  of  money  to  become  purchasers ;  and  as  such 
they  were  doing  well— so  true  is  it,  that  none  but  those 
who  will  work  with  their  own  hands,  and  for  a  time 
„„ — ,„,  ,ixi  viviiviiLj   \ji.  xxviUq,  uixu  t;Api;cb  lu  i/unve  as 


CANADi-WEST  TO  MICHIGAN. 


136 


settlers  in  this  new  country.  On  the  road  we  overtook 
one  of  this  toiling  class,  and  gave  him  a  ride  for  a  few 
miles.     He  told  us  he  had  been  a  rural  labourer  in  the 

south   of  England,  on  the  property  of  Lord  ^ 

where  his  wages  were  8s.  per  week.  On  coming  to 
Canada,  he  first  hired  himself  to  a  farmer,  and  having 
saved  a  little,  rented  one  of  the  abandoned  clearings, 
which  last  year  he  had  been  able  to  buy,  and  now, 
as  he  said,  he  was  in  comfortable  circumstances.  His 
latest  acquisition  was  a  cow,  which  he  highly  appre- 
ciated, for  the  sake  of  milk  for  his  family.  I  was 
much  pleased  with  the  maidy  Avay  in  which  this  indus- 
trious person  mentioned  these  particulars.  In  England, 
he  would  probably  have  talked  in  an  embarrassed,  ^  if 
you  please,^  fashion.  Transferred  to  a  country  where 
he  was  called  on  to  act  an  independent  part,  he  spoke 
without  timidity,  but  also  without  rudeness;  and  if 
not  what  is  ordinarily  called  a  gentleman,  he  at  least 
behaved  like  one. 

Towards  evening,  the  roads  were  terrible.  A  thaw 
having  come  on  and  softened  the  mud,  the  horses 
slipped  at  every  step,  and  at  length  one  of  them  fell; 
when  again  set  on  its  legs,  the  poor  creature  was  found 
to  have  lost  a  shoe — a  misfortune  that  caused  some 
detention  at  the  next  blacksmiths  forge,  and  left  us 
in  the  dark  still  fifteen  miles  from  Sarnia.  There  was 
only  one  spark  of  hope.  At  a  certain  distance,  we  had 
the  promise  of  coming  to  a  plank-road.  Yet  the  plank- 
road  seemed  to  recede  as  we  advanced.  Sometimes  we 
were  told  it  was  four  miles  off;  then  it  would  be  as  far 
as  five  miles ;  and  in  despair  of  reaching  it  at  all,  we 
had  arranged  to  stop  for  the  night  at  the  first  inn  we 
came  to,  when  suddenly  a  joyful  sound  struck  our  eur : 
the  horses  had  got  their  feet  on  the  planks.  In  a 
minute,  we  were  bowling  along  at  the  rate  of  ten  miles 
an  nour,    and   reached   our   destination   without    any 


130 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


tl 


■I 


further  misadventure.  As  we  drove  up  to  the  door  of 
the  hotel,  a  few  twinkling  stars  afforded  just  sufficient 
light  to  shew  the  broad  surface  of  the  river  St  Clair, 
the  western  boundary  of  Canada. 

Sarnia,  as  seen  next  morning,  is  a  thriving  little 
town  situated  on  the  St  Clair,  about  a  mile  below  the 
point  where  it  issues  from  Lake  Huron,  and  carrying 
on  some  trade  in  shipping.  The  view  across  the 
river,  which  is  half  a  mile  -wide,  shews  us  the  coast 
of  Michigan,  low  and  lined  with  trees,  with  a  neat 
white-painted  toAvn,  ha\ing  a  steam-vessel  moored  at 
its  quay.  In  this  steamer,  which  crossed  to  Samia 
for  passengers,  we  descended  the  St  Clair,  the  voyage 
occupying  five  hours  to  Detroit.  In  the  course  of  the 
trip,  the  vessel  touched  frequently  at  places  on  both 
sides  of  the  river. 

The  sail  down  the  St  Clair  was  very  charming.  On 
the  Canadian  shore,  there  was  pointed  out  a  lonp;  series 
of  small  clearings  with  cottages,  forming  a  settlement 
of  Indians,  protected  by  the  British  government ;  and 
Melville  Island,  in  the  lower  part  of  the  river,  is  de- 
voted exclusively  to  the  same  object.  These  Indians, 
partially  civilised,  were  spoken  of  as  not  making  any 
marked  progress;  and  a  clergyman,  who  is  charged 
with  their  supervision  and  instruction,  stated  to  me 
that  they  were  lessening  in  numbers,  and  would  ulti- 
mately be  extinct  as  a  race.  I  believe  this  opinion 
corresponds  with  the  general  experience  concerning  the 
Indian  tribes,  when  brought  within  the  operation  of 
ordinary  social  arrangements. 

On  the  Michigan  side,  several  pretty  little  towns 
were  touched  at,  which  shewed  marks  of  gromng 
traffic.  Adjoining  Lake  St  Clair,  the  banks  on  both 
shores  become  exceedingly  low,  with  long  marshy  spots, 
on  which  nothing  is  seen  but  small  hillocks  of  mud 
and  rushes,  forming  the  dwellings  of  musk-rats.     At 


CANADA-WEST  TO  MICHIGAN. 


137 


two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  the  vessel  came  in  sight 
of  Detroit,  a  large  and  handsomely  built  city,  situated 
on  a  gentle  slope  rising  from  the  right  bank  of  the 
river;  and  I  stepped  ashore  in  the  United  States. 

In  quitting  the  British  possessions  in  America,  a  few 
words  may  be  permitted.  Imperfect  as  had  been  my 
means  of  observation,  I  think  I  am  entitled  to  say,  that 
in  almost  all  quarters  there  prevails  a  very  decided 
spirit  of  improvement — a  steady  progress  towards  a 
great  and  prosperous  condition.  The  advance  is  very 
remarkable  in  Western  Canada,  which  cannot,  in  point 
of  general  appearance,  be  distinguished  from  the  neigh- 
bouring parts  of  the  states  of  New  York,  Pennsylvania, 
and  Ohio ;  and  it  is  my  belief,  that,  aided  by  the  various 
railways  already  opened  or  in  course  of  construction, 
this  portion  of  British  America  wiU  not  be  a  whit 
behind  any  of  the  northern  parts  of  the  Union.  AU 
that  seems  desirable,  for  the  purpose  of  consolidating 
the  character  and  interests  of  the  various  provinces, 
is  to  unite  them  in  a  viceroyalty  or  principality, 
with  a  federal  system  of  customs,  posts,  and  other 
fiscal  arrangements ;  so  as  to  secure  the  nearest 
possible  approximation  to  political  independence  and 
nationality.  Meanwhile,  through  the  efficacy  of  railway 
extension,  and  the  gradual  melioration  of  prejudices, 
a  preparation  may  be  said  to  be  making  towards  a 
result  of  this  kind,  which,  with  peace  and  the  general 
progress  of  enlightenment,  will  come  in  its  own  good 
time.  It  is  at  least  satisfactory  to  know  that  under 
the  protection  of  Great  Britain,  and  left  very  much 
to  their  own  government,  according  to  constitutional 
forms,  there  is  absolutely  nothing  to  retard  the 
advance  of  these  colonies,  and  I  am  inclined  to  think 
that  at  this  moment  they  have  not  a  single  thing  to 

/>r»TpT»lo-iri       rv-p       ■Prv—    •xwrV>in\\      +!->/->■. 


,^+    +V./ 


O'^v-*  a 


Cbi.li3       Xjl 


189 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


redress  in  their  own  hands.  As  far  as  I  could  see 
or  hear,  he  whole  of  these  provinces  are  in  a  state 
of  perfect  contentment,  strongly  attached  to,  and 
taking  a  deep  interest  in  the  concerns  of  the  mother- 

if  thl  *'"?\«™^'''^'-<=<».  it  ''ould  certainly  be  strange 
It  the  British  American  colonists  did  not  feel  happv  L 
their  present  and  prospective  condition.  They  are  the 
very  favourites  of  fo-tune.  Members  of  a  powerful 
empire,  they  are  not  called  on  to  contribute  a  shiUing 
to  the  national  exchequer.  In  the  home-couiitry,  while 
no  .ncoDsiderable  portion  of  every  man's  earnings  is 
confiscated  to  meet  the  annual  exigencies  of  the  state, 

ex.w?.    fi         *'","*'"'  P™""^^^'  *h«  People  «« 
exempted  from  nearly  aU  such   demands,   and   their 

acquaintance  mth  taxation  is  confined  chiefly  to  certain 
custom-house  duties  and  local  assessments  for  schools 
and  other  purposes.  At  present,  it  is  understood  to  be 
m  contemplation  to  substitute  a  provincial  armed  force 
f»  the  imperial  troops ;  and  this  measure,  if  carried  into 
cfiect,  cannot  but  elevate  the  character  of  the  colonies, 
by  Its  tendency  to  cultivate  and  strengthen  habits  of 
self-dependence  and  self-respect. 

Making  no  figm-e  in  the  political  world,  and  possess- 

^fl.      1°":^'  °f  ""'■""'"e  attention,  it  may  be  said 
mth  truth,  that  these  pro.inees,  beyond  the  mere  fact 
ot  their  existence,  are  scai'cely  known  in  England.    The 
people  at  lai-ge  are  not  at  aU  aware  of  their  extent  or 
capabdities;  and  few  even  of  the  intelligent  classes  are 
m   a    position    to    appreciate    their    social    progress 
Neglected,    except   by    a   generally   humble   class    of 
emigrants,   and  by  persons    engaged   in    commercial 
transactions-until  recent  times  treated  with  indiffer- 
ence by  colomal  ministers,  and  left  to  be  the  prey  of 
adventurers,  the  wonder  is  that  these  colonies  aie  what 
they  are,  and  theu^  remarkable  progress  can  be  ascribed 


CANADA-WEST  TO  MICIIIOAN. 


180 


only  to  their  own  intrinsically  excellent,  yet  unvatmted 
qualities.  Silently  and  unostentatiously  have  their  lands 
been  reclaimed  from  the  wilderness,  and  their  scattered 
log-cabins  and  villages  swelled  into  cities,  until  at  length 
they  challenge  observation  as  a  second  New-England 
beyond  the  Atlantic,  to  the  growth  of  which  no  one 
can  assign  any  definite  limits. 

The  advance,  as  previously  noticed,  has  been  very 
remarkable  in  Canada.  At  the  surrender  of  the  pro- 
vince in  1763,  its  population  was  estimated  at  from 
60,000  to  05,000.  In  1851,  the  numbers  had  increased 
to  890,261  in  Lower  Canada,  and  952,004  in  Western 
Canada— unitedly,  1,842,265,  or  now  about  2,000,000; 
the  ratio  of  increase  being  such  as  to  double  the  popu- 
lation every  twelve  or  thirteen  years.  The  growing 
wealth  of  the  community  is  learned  from  the  fact, 
that  while  in  1825,  the  assessable  property  in  Western 
Canada  was  estimated  at  £1,854,000,  in  1852,  it  had 
amounted  to  £37,695,000.  The  cultivation  of  the  soil 
keeps  pace  with  this  increase.  In  1841,  the  wL .at 
crop  was  3,221,000  bushels;  in  1851,  it  was  12,692,000 
bushels.  In  1851,  the  value  of  British  imports  into 
Canada  amounted  to  £2,475,000,  or  about  £1,  6s.  per 
head  of  the  population.  A  circumstance  still  more 
indicative  of  social  progress  remains  to  be  mentioned. 
In  Canada,  in  1852,  there  were  nearly  three  millions 
of  miles  travelled  by  the  maU,  and  in  that  year  alone 
there  was  an  increase  of  about  250  new  post-offices; 
and  the  continued  opening  of  such  new  establishments 
forms  one  of  the  remarkable  features  of  the  country. 

In  travelling  through  Canada  and  the  adjacent  states, 
nothing  is  more  satisfactory  than  to  find  that  there 
prevails  the  best  mutual  understanding  between  the 
British  and  American  people.  Placed  on  a  long  line  of 
boimdary,  within  sight  of  each  other,  and  being  con- 
nected by  many  common  ties,  it  is  onlv  matter  for 

w  -  -       


140 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


regret  that  there  should  exist  any  restrictions  in  com- 
mercial intercourse.  Unfortunately,  the  freedom  of 
trade  is  interrupted  by  a  war  of  tariffs,  as  weU  as  by 
legal  obstacles  to  the  uninterrupted  navigation  of  water- 
courses, vastly  to  the  disadvantage  of  both  parties,  and 
no  doubt  productive  of  a  demoralising  contraband  traffic. 
I  would  venture  to  hope  that  a  study  of  this  delicate 
question,  as  demonstrated  in  the  successful  liberation  of 
trade  by  Great  Britain,  will  tend  to  shake  the  confi- 
dence of  Americans  and  Provincials  in  the  doctrine  of 
hostae  duties,  and  induce  the  belief  that,  after  all, 
generosity  in  trade,  as  in  everything  else,  brings  its  owii 
great  reward. 

In   the   development   of  minerals,   particularly  the 
copper  ores   bordering  on  Lake   Superior;   in  trade, 
lumbermg,    and  navigation;    and  in  agriculture,   the 
enterpnsiug  have  a  wide  scope  for  profitable  operations 
in  Canada;  nor  need  any  one  be  deterred  from  maki  ig 
the   country  his  home  on  the   score  of  climate.      .n 
Western  Canada,  the  winters  are  shorter  and  the  cold 
less  severe  than  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  province; 
and  in  no  case  is  the  temperature  of  either  summer  or 
winter  spoken  of  as  injurious  to  health.     With  regard 
to  improved  farms  ready  for  the  reception  of  settlers  in 
Western  Canada,  they  may  be  had  in  every  quarter, 
and  information  respecting  them  wiU  be  obtained  at 
the  offices  of  land-agents  in  the  large  towns,   or  by 
consulting  local  newspapers.      No   one  purposing  to 
acquire  lands,   need  give   himself  any  uneasiness  on 
this  point,  for  eligible  spots  will  be  heard  of  everywhere. 
In  each  county  town  there  is  a  land-agent  appointed  to 
dispose  of  crown-lands,  which  are  uncleared,  and  may 
for  the  most  part  be  obtained  at  about  7s.  sterling 
per  acre.      The  best  lands  of  this  kind,  however,  are 
generally  disposed  of  in  the  older  settled  parts  of  the 
country.     In  some  cases,  uncleared  lands  are  preferable 


CANADA-WEST  TO  MICHIGAN. 


141 


to  those  which  have  been  cultivated ;  for  the  universal 
tendency  is  to  exhaust,  and  then  sell  lands  to  nPTv- 
coraers.  Some  caution  in  making  a  choice  in  old 
settlements  is  therefore  desirable.  While  men  with 
means  may  confine  their  selection  to  improved  locahties, 
I  should  advise  those  of  more  slender  resources,  but 
with  youth  and  strength,  to  proceed  to  the  districts 
bordering  on  Lake  Huron,  belonging  to  the  Canada 
Company,  which  sells  lands  at  from  2s.  to  £1,  4-3.  per 
acre,  according  to  quahty  and  locality.  Goderich,  on 
Lake  Huron,  will  soon  be  reached  by  railway.  As 
regards  persons  who  desire  to  work  for  wages,  it  is 
enough  to  say,  that  in  Canada  any  able-bodied  labourer 
will  at  present  receive  at  least  4s.  per  day;  and  that 
bricklayers,  masons,  and  carpenters  wiU  be  paid  6s.  to 
8s.  per  day,  while  the  cost  of  living  ^nll  be  found  much 
the  same  as  in  this  country,  if  not  in  some  places  con- 
siderably less.  The  demand  for  labourers  and  artisans 
to  be  employed  on  the  railways  in  course  of  construc- 
tion is  now  so  great,  that  it  will  absorb  all  who  offer 
themselves  for  years  to  comcj  and  how,  with  such 
allurements,  there  is  not  a  more  general  migration 
from  England,  is  one  of  the  things  not  easily 
accounted  for. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


OHIO CINCINNATI. 

A   HUNDRED  and  more  years  ago,  when  the  French 
still  possessed  so  large  a  portion  of  America  that  the 
English  were  sometimes  not  quite  sure  of  being  able 
to   keep  their  ground  against  them,  there   stood  on 
the  sloping  and  woody  frontier  of  Michigan,  a  pretty 
little  French  village  of  wooden  houses,  forming  a  post 
for   carr-mg  on  trade   with   the   Indians,  and  caUed 
Detroit,  from  its  situation  on  a  narrow  part  of  the  river 
which  flows  from  Lake  St  Clair.     In  these  quiet  old 
French  times,  an  occasional  canoe  laden  with  peltry 
was  perhaps  the  only  craft  which  made  its  appearance 
at  the  landing-place.     Now,  in  the  hands  of  the  Anglo- 
Americans,  we  see  on  the  spot  a  scries  of  substantial 
quays,  at  which  a  long  line  of  sailing  and  steam-vessels 
are  dra>vn  up,  and  when  we  land  in  this  far-inland 
mart  of  commerce,  we  feel  very  much  as  if  amidst  the 
bustle  of  a  seaport. 

Walldng  into  the  city,  everything  is  indicative  of 
change.  In  two  or  three  places,  you  may  notice 
dingy  wooden  buildings  of  antique  construction,  with 
verandas,  in  which,  in  the  days  of  yore.  Frenchmen  in 
queues  smoked  their  long  pipes,  and  Frenchwomen 
kmtted  the  family  stockings— relics  of  the  old  village 
now  all  but  gone,  and  swallowed  up  by  taU  and  hand- 
some edifices  of  stone  and  brick.  The  streets  and 
avenues,  broad  and  ornamented  with  trees,  are  throno-cd 


OHIO — CINCINNATI. 


143 


with  business;  and  banks,  stores,  and  hotels  meet  the 
eye  at  every  turning.  The  situation  seems  to  be 
adapted  for  carrying  on  an  extensive  traffic  with  the 
lakes,  and  being  near  the  terminus  of  the  Great  Western 
Railway  of  Canada,  it  cannot  fail  to  become  an  im- 
portant centre  of  intercommunication.  By  taking  this 
railway  at  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  passengers  will  run 
across  Canada  to  Michigan,  not  only  in  a  much  shorter 
time  than  they  could  pursue  the  line  along  the  southern 
shore  of  Lake  Erie,  but  they  wiU  in  every  respect  enjoy 
greater  comfort  in  the  transit.  The  Erie  Railway  has 
become  notorious  for  disorderly  conduct,  and  inter- 
ruptions take  place  at  diflPerent  points  by  a  change  of 
gauge;  likewise,  at  Cleveland,  a  badly-regulated  ferry 
requires  to  be  crossed.  Already,  the  citizens  of  Detroit 
have  expressed  a  wish  that  the  mails  for  Michigan  may 
be  sent  by  the  Canadian  route. 

At  Detroit,  tlie  traveller  perceives  that  he  is  on  the 
threshold  of  that  great  West,  which  is  now  only  opening 
up  for  settlement,  and  he  can  scarcely  avoid  hearing 
accounts  of  the  marvellously  rapid  progress  which  is 
making  in  the  states  of  Illinois,  Wisconsin,  and  Iowa. 
Probably,  the  most  surprising  instance  of  this  kind  is 
that  of  Chicago,  a  city  of  Illinois,  on  the  western  shore 
of  Lake  Michigan,  which  was  begun  in  1831,  and 
already  numbers  G0,000  inhabitants.  A  gentleman 
mentioned  to  me  that,  forty  years  ago,  he  could  have 
purchased  the  whole  ground  on  which  the  city  stands 
for  500  dollars;  now,  as  large  a  sum  as  10,000  dollars 
for  the  site  of  a  single  store  would  not  be  considered 
extravagant.  Boundless,  however,  as  is  the  field  for 
settlement  in  Illinois,  Michigan,  and  other  western 
states,  I  should  recommend  emigrants  from  Europe 
not  to  attempt  going  beyond  Canada  or  Ohio;  either  of 
these  being  sufficiently  far  distant,  and  having  the 
advantage  of  being  readily  accessible  from  the  AtJantic 


144 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


If 
'HI 

III 


s  t- 
1  f.  ,■ 


cities.  The  west  may  be  best  settled  by  American 
pioneers,  with  constitutions  and  habits  adapted  to  the 
new  regions  beyond  the  lakes. 

As  the  boundary  between  Canada  and  the  States,  the 
river  St  Clair,  or  Detroit,  is  not  seen  without  a  certain 
interest.  From  the  city  of  Pstroit,  we  look  across  to 
the  British  shore,  half  a  mile  distant,  and  observe  that 
behind  the  frontage  of  wharfs  forming  the  railway 
terminus,  there  extends  the  village  of  Windsor,  with  a 
number  of  pretty  villas  scattered  about  its  outskirts. 
It  will  be  recollected  that  the  river  at  this  and  other 
points,  is  that  eagerly  sought-for  line  of  separation,  to 
which  fugitive  slaves  from  the  south  direct  their  flight. 
Having  succeeded  in  gaining  the  Canadian  shore,  and 
being  therefore  safe  from  pursuit,  the  refugees  disperse 
to  offer  their  services  as  waiters  in  hotels  or  steam- 
boats, or  to  settle  down  as  cultivators  of  the  soil.  At  a 
spot  called  Dawn,  a  short  way  within  the  frontier,  they 
have  established  themselves  in  considerable  numbers, 
and  are  said  to  be  in  a  thriving  condition. 

Down  the  beautiful  river  Detroit  to  Lake  Erie,  I 
proceeded  in  one  of  the  splendid  lake-steamers,  bound 
for  Sandusky,  in  Ohio,  which  was  reached  after  a 
voyage  of  six  hours.  The  vessel  wound  its  way  among 
various  islands  at  the  head  of  the  lake ;  but  these,  level, 
and  generally  covered  with  trees,  possessed  no  strik- 
ingly picturesque  features.  The  shores  of  Lake  Erie 
are  for  the  most  part  of  the  same  character;  though 
fertile,  and  blessed  mth  a  fine  climate,  the  country  is 
tame  in  outline,  and  all  that  usually  meets  the  eye 
is  a  fringe  of  trees  overhanging  the  low  and  muddy 
banks.  On  one  of  the  islands  in  the  lake,  a  vineyard  is 
successfully  cultivated. 

Sandusky,  situated  at  the  bottom  of  a  bay  on  the 
southern  shore  of  the  lake,  is  another  of  the  old  French 
villages,  expanded  and  modernised  into  an  American 


OHIO — CINCINNATI. 


145 


City.  From  this  place,  I  proceeded  by  the  raUway-cars 
to  Cleveland,  the  line  pursuing  the  lake-shore  nearly 
the  whole  way,  sometimes  going  across  inlets,  on  posts 
sunk  m  the  water,  and  at  other  times  darting  through 
masses  of  forest,  amidst  which  were  occasionally  seen 
the  log-huts  and  clearings  of  settlers.  The  land  seemed 
nch,  apparently  a  heavy  alluvial  deposit,  fit  for  any 
kind  of  grain  crops. 

Beside  me  in  the  car  there  sat  an  aged  personage 
of  lanky  appearance,  with  thin,  clean-shaved  cheeks, 
and  a  broad-brimmed  white  hat,  rather  the  worse  for 
wear.  He  spoke  continuaUy,  either  in  ejaculatory 
remarks,  or  in  inquiries  about  everything.  The  car 
had  just  got  under-way,  and  aU  had  settled  in  their 
places  with  the  ordinary  gravity  of  American  traveUers, 
when  my  neighbour  began  in  a  pretty  high  key,  address- 
ing nobody  in  particular,  and  pausing  about  a  minute 
at  the  close  of  every  sentence : — 

'WeU,  here  we  are  all  safe,  I  hope  .  .  It's  a  plea- 
sant thing  to  know  you  aj-e  going  home  .  .  O  yes  !  .  . 
Not  so  cold  as  yesterday;  no  .  .  The  train  seems  to  be 
running  across  the  lake  .  .  We  have  nothing  but  water 
on  both  sides  .  .  O,  I  see  I  was  mistaken;  there  is  a 
pile  of  lumber  .  .  Great  lumbering  trade  hereabouts,  I 
guess  .  .  I  have  been  as  far  as  Milwaukee,  to  see  my 
daughter,  who  is  settled  there— she  is  very  comfortable 
.  .  I  am  going  home  to  Boston  .  .  A  long  way  that  .  . 
But  there's  a  fine  simset,  at  anyrate'  .  .  (Looking  at 
me)— 'How  far  do  vou  go,  stranger?' 

'I  am  going  to  Cleveland,  and  then  to  Cincinnati.' 
'O,  you're  travelling  that  way,  are  you?     Perhaps 
in  the  dry-goods  line?' 

'I  am  not  travelling  for  business;  only  making  an 
excursion  to  see  some  of  the  more  interesting  places  in 
America.' 

'  Why,  sure  !    You  are  from  the  old  country,  I  guess. 


i 


Ill 


11   TW' 


146 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


Well,  now,  tliat  is  strange.     What  part  of  England  are 
you  from?' 

'  I  am  from  Scotland.' 

'Are  you?    Well,  we've  no  want  of  Scotch  in  the 
States ;  they  're  a  'cute  set  of  chaps — ^well  posted  up  on 
most  things.     I  suppose  you're  married  .  .  You  might 
be  at  anyrate'  .  .  (Here  he  again  began  to  maunder, 
speaking  straightforward  to  the  atmosphere.)     'Well, 
well,  marriage  is  a  proper  thing ;  no  doubt  .  .  I  have 
seen  a  good  deal  in  my  time  .  .  Just  before  leaving 
home,  I  received  a  letter  from  a  niece  in  New  York, 
inviting  me  to  her  wedding  .  .  I  sent  word,  that  I 
wished  her  and  her  proposed  husband  much  happiness ; 
and  the  only  advice  I  could  give  them,  was  to  mind 
themselves,  and  take  charge  of  their  own  babies  .  . 
Yes,  yes,  a  strange  world  this  .  .  Many  people  think 
they  have  nothing  else  to  do,  but  make  a  present  of 
children  to  uncles  and  grandfathers,  as  if  they  had  not 
had  enough  to  do  looking  after  their  own  .  .  Won't 
do,  no  how,  for  me,  that'  .  .  (Conductor  goes  through 
the  car.)     '  I  say,  conductor,  are  we  in  the  right  track  ? 
.    .    This  the  way  to   Cleveland?    .    .   When  do  we 
change?  .  .  0'  ay,  yes,  yes,  all  right;  I  thought  so  .  . 
A  man  can't  help  being  anxious  .  .  I  am  going  home 
.  .  Ah,  it 's  a  long  way  .  .  But  I  can  sleep  in  the  cars 
.  .  Of  course  I  can  .  .  I  always  carry  a  cap  in  the 
crown  of  my  hat  .  .  Nothing  like  taking  little  luggage 
.  .  And  so  you  are  from  the  old  country  ?  .  .  Yes,  yes, 
you  have  plenty  to  see  .  .  I  declare  it's  getting  quit;, 
dark  .  .  Well,  I  daresay  we'll  get  to  Cleveland  in  good 
time.'     And  so  on  he  went  with  little  intermission  to 
the  end  of  the  journey.      'I  see,'  said  he,  'they're 
slowing  the  train  .  .  There's  the  engineer's  bell  .   . 
We  shall  stop  in  a  minute.' 

And  true  enough,  the  train  di'cw  up.    The  passengers 
hurried  out,  and  walking  do^vn  an  inclined  platform. 


OHIO CINCINNATI.  j.- 

reached  the  bank  of  a  rive  ,  and  placed  themselves  upon 
what  seemed  a  raft,  without  railing  or  -uard  ofTv 
k.nd  along  the  sides.    As  it  .  aa  exceedh^7  d°  rk   J 
cannot  venture  on  a  description  of  this  extrLSxy 
feny-boat,  wluch  crossed  the  Cuyahoga  river  with  tZ 
passengers  and  their  baggage  in  a  maLr  hyZt2l 
W.    Several  times,  in  passing  under  the  morrS^! 
imes  of  steam.yessels,  we  were  told  to  duck  down  om- 
heads  to  avoid  being  swept  from  the  unprotected™eek 
and  at  these  times,  while  there  was  a  general  prostea 

to  himself  aloud:  'Ay,  ay,  one  does  meet  sometimes 
with  eunou,  things     .  I  hope  the  rope  won't  tlloff 
my  hat      .  I  felt  .t  graze  on  my  back  just  now 
I  am  glad  we  are  now  near  the  other  side  .  .  Thire's 
a  man  with  a  lantern  .      I  think  I  see  the  omnibus 
WeU,  I  m  thankful  it's  all  over.'      'And  so  am  I' 
said  another  of  the  passenger..      '  It ',  the  last  "me 

ZjZo7^    '"'*™"  ''"''  ^'^"'''  -^  -  *^-  tao™ 

t/r'?!""''^    ''"'""^    mutterings,    the  ferry-boat 
touched  the  quay;  and  in  the  scramble  which  eLued 

travelleiv-the  only  person,  by  the  way,  of  an  inouisitive 
and  pratthng  turn  of  mind  whom  it  was  my  fortZ  to 

to  Amenca.     In  the  present  day,  so  far  as  I  could  see 

mind  anybody  or  anything  fur'her  than  what  concerns 
themselves;  and  so  far  from  troubling  you  with  qu"! 
tions,  they  ai^  absolutely  indifierent  ^  to  who  oZZ 
you  are,  and  let  you  go  your  way  i„  peace. 

In  aiTiving  at  Cleveland,  I  had  come  upon  the  CTcat 
thoroughfa,^  of  emigrants  between  Now  York  and'le 
valleys  of  the  Ohio  and  Mississinp,-_tv  J„rl  "^^ 


148 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


they  turn  off  from  the  lake-shore  road  towards  Cin- 
cinnati.    On  getting  to  the  railway-station^  a  scene  of 
prodigious  confusion  presented  itself.     Some  hundreds 
of  Germans  and  Irish  of  both  sexes  were  seen  bivouacked 
beside  vast  piles  of  trunks  and  bags.     Some  had  lost 
sight  of  their  baggage,  and  ran  frantically  about  looking 
for  it  everywhere,  at  the  risk  of  being  run  over  by  loco- 
motives.    In  proportion  as  the  cars  filled,  the  hubbub 
gradually  lessened;  and  at  length,  after  securing  my 
seat,  the  train  set  off  with  its  immense  freight  of  pas- 
sengers, most  of  whom  were  in  quest  of  a  home  in  the 
New  World.    The  journey  occupied  about  twelve  hours, 
and  was  latterly  through  one  of  the  finest  parts  of  the 
state  of  Ohio — namely,  the  vaUey  of  the  Miami,  which, 
with  rich  sloping  fields,  and  bounded  by  picturesque 
woody  hills,  presents  a  variety  of  landscapes,  such  as 
are  seen    in    the  more  beautiful  parts  of   England. 
Falling  into  the  Ohio,  the  Miami  River,  in  its  descent 
of  150  miles,  affords  valuable  water-power  for  numerous 
manufactories ;  while  the  valley  through  which  it  flows 
admits  of  a  canal  being  carried  from  the  Ohio  to  Lake 
Erie;    and  thus  the  district  is  the   great   channel  of 
communication  for  traffic  between  the  lake-countries 
and  the  Southern  States. 

It  was  about  nine  o'clock  on  a  bright  sunny  morning, 
that,  coming  down  the  valley  of  the  Miami  in  the  cars, 
I  first  saw  the  Ohio,  a  river  o^  large  volume,  but,  from  a 
long-continued  drought,  much  smaller  now  than  usual, 
and  with  steep  sloping  muddy  banks  on  both  sides, 
surmounted  by  green  hills,  here  and  there  dotted  with 
the  white  mansions  of  a  settled  and  thriving  population. 
Turning  down  the  valley  of  the  Ohio,  close  under  the 
high  grounds,  Cincinnati,  the  Queen  City  of  the  West, 
was  revealed  in  all  her  beauty,  seated  on  terraces 
amidst  picturesque  knolls  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Ohio,  and  looking  complacently  across  the  broad  river 


OHIO— CINCINNATI. 

towards  the  garden-Iike  lands  of  Kentuckv  <?»f«  a 
for  a  few  days  at  the  Burnet  House  one  of  rt^  ?  "^ 
and  best-eondueted  hotels  in  thrC^d  st  f  ^^""^ 

sZeT/the  ™  '  *"  T^'  ™y«elf  aequaintedl^tt 
-e^  of  Ohio  an^  its  adaJaC t^e^^ 
wer^r'Snf  *"  "^i'  '"'™"«<'  "'  -vilisation 

the  -  ^tS^^rttr %SL*°i:-t^^^ 

KardiyreL:rtt  ;::''~s  oriLti::.^  "- 
^xrani'thirth"'  :i  ^r -^-"-ittc 

Up:::s*o?  irt-    t*\"^«oent    sH^I 

streets  ascend  to  the  hio-hev  Zr.     T       ,     **?"& 
Bected  by  others  at  Ihf  alr"^''  T'^  '"'^  '"'^" 


I'M 


I 


160 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


One  peculiar  feature  is  everywhere  observable — the 
number  of  sign-boards  in  German.  This  language  is 
seen  inscribed  on  doorways,  and  so  frequently  heard 
spoken,  that  one  almost  feels  as  if  he  were  in  Hamburg. 
Of  the  entire  population,  51,000  are  foreigners — of 
whom  30,000  are  Germans,  13,000  Irish,  and  3600 
English.  The  number  of  Scotch  is  singularly  small, 
being  only  771.  This  scarcity  of  an  element  generally 
founa  wherever  there  is  any  prospect  of  well-doing, 
is  probably  to  be  accounted  for  by  the  absorption  of 
Scotch  emigrants  in  Canada,  and  the  states  immediately 
west  of  it.  While  Ohio  has  been  strangely  neglected 
by  settlers  from  Great  Britain,  it  has  become  a  land 
of  promise  to  Germans,  who,  fleeing  from  the  dull 
despotisms  of  central  Europe,  find  here  a  boundless 
scope  for  their  genius  and  persevering  industry.  They 
find,  likewise,  a  region  resembling  that  of  their  own 
dear  Ehine — a  country  of  com  and  grapes,  rich  in 
every  valuable  product,  and  possessing  those  genial 
seasonal  influences  which  clothe  the  earth  in  flowers. 

Placed  on  the  Ohio,  1600  miles  from  the  ocean, 
steamers  are  seen  at  the  quay  of  Cincinnati,  taking  on 
board  freight  and  passengers  for  New  Orleans,  and  aU 
other  places  of  importance  on  the  Mississippi,  and  its 
larger  tributaries.  Vessels  of  less  burden  proceed  up 
the  Ohio  to  Wheeling  and  Pittsburg,  whence  there  is 
now  a  communication  by  railway  with  Philadelphia 
and  Baltimore ;  and  keeping  in  recollection  the  ready 
access  by  railway  and  canal  to  Cleveland,  on  Lake 
Erie,  it  will  be  seen  that  Cincinnati  is  the  centre  of  a 
circle  which  bears  on  the  Atlantic  in  the  east,  the  vast 
prairies  on  the  west,  the  lake-countries  on  the  north, 
and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  on  the  south.  It  is  only  by 
a  perception  of  this  wide  and  comprehensive  radius, 
with  its  enormous  and  ever-accumulating  demand  for 
products  of  mechanical  industiy,  that  we  can  under- 


OHIO— CINCINNATI. 

I>>I 

Stand  the  character  of  those  manufacturing  estahH^l, 
ments  which  are  making  Cincinnati  onl  nf  ^  ^'™'^- 
of  the  New  World-and  wWcTafter  nil  1°"^'"" 

cabmet-makmg  estabUshment  with  fifty  p  eked  Cd^ 

s  s  '^r"'  ""1!^  ^'"'="*  "-'^  *°  ^tl^i 

flnd'holA     •!  ""  *'^  f^toT-mill  Byatem  thai  we 
to  L      r^  "'  P^dueed  in  Cineiimati.    Curio^ 

outskirts  of  the  city,  where  manufactories  of  various 
kHids  are  conducted  upon  a  scale  that  went  v^Z 

^I^Z'  '^""^  "»'»-  "^  ^^'^^  -  be  2  S 

The  first   establishment  I  visited  W5,«  o   a      -x 
faninr^    o  i.        i   •  ,    ,  visitcQ  was  a  furmturc- 

ST"^  „Xt"^t  tf tt^' '™  ^'»™^  -  ^^-^H 

and  in  wUch  o^n^i^  1  *^  ~™'"'  °^  *^°  ^^ets. 
oepartments.     Many  of  these  are  occupied  merelv  in 

ana  belts  from  a  large  steam-engine  on  the  eround 
floor.    Every  article  receives  its  shape  in  the^Zh" 

J- ,..^^.     ^  xuugn  aeaij  or 


t'illlilltlliiii 


!RI 


162 
other 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


of 


od^  being  arranged  on  a  bench  under 
the   action  of   a   plane   which   revolved   horizontally, 
was  in  a  few  instants  smoothed  as   if  by   the  finest 
hand-labour.     Chairs  of  a  common  class,   but  neatly 
turned  and  painted,  were  the  principal  article  of  manu- 
facture.    The  number  produced  almost  goes  beyond 
belief.     I  was  informed  that  the  average  quantity  was 
200  dozen  every  week,  or  at  the  rate  of  124,800  chairs 
per   annum,   worth   from   five   to   twenty-four   dollars 
per  dozen.     Among  these,  a  large  number  are  rockers. 
The  machinery  for  scooping  out  and  sliaping  the  seats 
was  exceedingly  ingenious.     The  next   article  in  im- 
portance is  chests  of  drawers,  of  which  2000  are  manu- 
factured annually.      Baby-cribs  are  another  important 
item ;  but  the  number  of  them  produced  coidd  not  be 
definitely  stated.     Much  of  the  lighter  kinds  of  work, 
such  as  painting  and  varnishing,  is  done  by  boys,  who 
make  from  four  to  eight  dollars  each  in  weekly  wages. 
Many   of  the   workmen — all  being  on   piece-work — 
realise  twelve  dollars  per  week;   but  some  have  even 
higher  wages.     My  attention  was  called  towards  the 
process   of  ornamental  hana-tuming,  chiefly  executed 
by   Germans.     One   of  these   clever  mechanics  went 
through  his  Avork  with  astonishing  speed  and  precision ; 
his  ^een  eye  never  being  for  one  instant  raised  from 
the  whirling  lathe  before  him.     This  person,  I  was  told, 
made  eighteen  doUars  per  week,  and  being  a  sober, 
well-behaved  man,  he  had  already  realised  property  to 
the  value  of  5000   dollars    (£1000  sterling).      Many 
other  workmen  in  the  establishment  were  spoken  of  as 
having   accumulated   property   by   their   industry   and 
economical  mode   of  living.     The  most  steady  hands 
were   stated    to    be    native  Americans    or    Germans. 
'English  and   Scotch  were   good  workmen,   but  not 
usually  well  educated,  or  of  sober  habits.'     I  heard  the 
same  thing  said  elsewhere. 


OHIO— CINCINNATI.  j 

articles^reqrdrS  Asl  ''"^/'^iou,  parta  of  the 
tun,ed  out  e"^'^e^J  J"r^  "V'^OO  bedsteads  are 
four  doUars  S     sll  "f  "'  '^°'"  '""^  *°  '"^'^'y 

it  is  undesirabe  to  eXt'deTf""''™'''''''  ""* 
products.      In  the^  flw,*  J"^  '•"specting  their 

and  hinges,  wi„do,/fra^.  °^  '™"  ^*°™''   '«H 

uphoktery/fir™     hati:   """^/"t-J  cabinet-ware 

axes   and   other    el^/.  ™''  "'"^''  ■""^'^^T 

other  thins^-theonfl.'  '"""S^  ""<»  "^e™^ 

tic  seal'    1  Z  TZXim  "  ^^""''^  ^«-- 

are  bought  up  annu^lv  10  ono    '^  'f*"™''  ""='« 

40,000  sides  o/urSher  20  o^'^l  "^  ^olc-leather, 

calf-skins,  5000  pZdw ethts  "vT  ^^^P-^ns,  2500 

bushels  of  shoe-pees     Tbf  ''""t-nails,  and  600 

establishment  aim  t  tJV^'aZ  ""^  '"  «"^ 
On  hearing  facts  nf  t).;.  i  ■  j  ^  ""^  ^'^  annum, 
occurs  :  Wll?  1  alT  ^  '  ^^  '1"''"°"  continuaUy 
course  the  rplanat,^  *  slol? f  r  r  ""  °^ 
demand  over  the  vast  regions  rf  J  /  f^'™* 
said,  Cincim.ati  is  the  eS^Z  EvlJ^'l  ".^'^  "^^ 
of  fresh  families  arp  Tnai.,-«  -^very  day,  thousands 

ness,  and  each  icds  betS  t^r  1*  "  *^  ^""''■ 
articles  of  domestic  uT  n    ^      '  *''"^'  *'"'  "*<='• 

its   tribut^e?     On.  7  °°  *''<=  Mississippi  and 

told  me  hnad  ,..       "'^""faetm.er  of  cabinet- work 

originahty  of  m"f  Tm  J" -^^^'^  ^"*  *"« 

^  --1C  m^cvxaiuviu  contrivances 


,  4  > 


154 


THINGS  AS  THEY  AIIE  IN  AMERICA. 


wliicli  came  under  my  notice  in  Cincinnati.  Under  the 
enlightenment  of  miiversal  education,  ard  the  impulse 
of  a  great  and  growing  demand,  the  American  mind 
would  seem  to  be  ever  on  the  rack  of  invention  to 
discover  fresh  applications  of  inanimate  power.  Almost 
everywhere  may  be  seen  something  new  in  the  arts. 
As  regards  carpentry-machinery,  one  of  the  heads  of 
an  establishment  said,  with  some  confidence,  that  the 
Americans  w^ere  fifty  years  in  advance  of  Great 
Britain.  Possibly,  this  was  too  bold  an  assertion; 
but  it  must  be  admitted  that  all  kinds  of  American 
cutting-tools  are  of  a  superior  description,  and  it  is 
very  desirable  that  they  should  be  examined  in  a  candid 
spirit  by  English  manufacturers.  In  mill-machinery, 
the  Americans  have  effected  some  surprising  improve- 
ments. At  one  of  the  machine  manufactories  in  Cin- 
cinnati, is  shewn  an  article  to  which  I  may  draw  the 
attention  of  English  country-gentlemen.  It  is  a  port- 
able flour-mill,  occupying  a  cube  of  only  four  feet, 
and  yet,  by  means  of  various  adaptations,  capable  of 
grinding,  with  a  power  of  three  horses,  from  fourteen 
to  sixteen  bushels  per  hour ;  the  flour  produced  being 
of  so  superior  a  quality,  that  it  has  carried  off  various 
prizes  at  the  agricultural  shows.  With  a  mill  of  tliis 
kind,  attached  to  the  ordinary  thrashing-machines, 
any  farmer  could  probably  grinrl  his  own  wheat,  and 
be  able  to  send  it  to  market  as  finely  dressed  as  if 
it  came  from  a  professed  miller.  As  many  as  500  of 
these  portable  and  cheap  mills  are  disposed  of  every 
year  by  the  makers ;  and  they  are  seen  at  work  all  over 
the  southern  and  western  states.  Surely  it  would  be 
worth  while  for  English  agricultural  societies  to  procure 
specimens  of  these  mills,  as  well  as  of  farm-implements 
generally,  from  America — a  little  of  the  money  usually 
devoted  to  the  over-fattening  of  oxen  would  not,  I 
think,  be  iU  employed  for  such  a  purpose. 


OHIO — CINCINNATI.  155 

In  some  of  the  wholesale  stores  of  Cincinnati,  ai-tieles 
of  English  manufacture  are  kept;  and  the  imports  of 
foreign  Hquors  and  luxuries  of  the  table  seemed  to  be 
considerable.     On   the  whole,   however,   it  was  pretty 
evident  here,   as   at  other  places,  that  the  Americans 
aim  at  independence  in  every  branch   of  trade;   and 
indeed  they  can    scarcely   avoid  doing    so;    for  the 
drawing  of  supplies  of  so  vast  a  nature  as  they  require 
from   distant  nations  is  totaUy  out   o^  the   question. 
Besides,  here  is  every  raw  material  on         spot.     Iron, 
wood,  and  coal,  and  other  grand  necessaries  of  manu- 
facture, are  at  hand  in  inexhaustible  abundance.     The 
coal-fields  of  Pennsylvania,   on  which   are  based  the 
prosperous  iron-foundries    and   engineering   establish- 
ments of  Pittsburg,  are,  from  their  extent,  a  land  of 
geological  marvel,  and  render  this  great  country  inde- 
pendent of  the  pits  of  Durhanj  and  Northumberland. 

The  most  curious  thing  of  all  about  Cincinnati,  is 
Its  system  of  pig-killing  and  pork-pickling.     The  place 
is  known  as  the  principal  hog-market  in  the   United 
States.     The  hogs  are  reared  in  the  country  around  on 
the  refuse  of  the  corn-fields  after  harvest,  and  among 
the  extensive  forests,  where  they  pick  up  food  at  little 
or  no  cost  to  their  owners.     Brought  in  steamers  from 
a  great  distance,  they  are  seen  marching  and  grunting 
in  large  herds  through  the  streets  to  the  slaughtering 
establishments  in  the  neighboiu'hood.     The  season  in 
which  they  begin  to  make  their  appearance  is  the  fall, 
when  they  are  in  prime  condition,  and  when,  from  the 
state  of  the  temperature,  their  carcasses  can  soon  be 
cooled  by  the  air,  and  rendered  fit  for  pickling.     The 
greater  number  of  the  hog  slaughter-houses  are  behind 
the  town,   on  the   road  towards  the  higher  grounds, 
and  are  generally  wooden  structures  of 'a  very  plain 
description.     Each  is  provided  with  a  series  of  pens, 
whence  the  animals  walk  in  single  file  along  an  enclosed 


166 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


gallery  towards  the  apartment  where  they  meet  their 
doom. 

When  a  pig  is  killed  in  England,  the  sufferer  usually 
takes  care  to  let  the  whole  neighbourhood  hear  of  the 
transaction.  On  such  occasions,  it  is  the  prescriptive 
right  of  the  pig  to  squeak,  and  he  is  allowed  to  squeak 
accordingly.  In  Cincinnati,  there  is  no  time  for  this. 
Impelled  along  the  passage  from  the  exterior  pen, 
each  hog  on  entering  the  chamber  of  death  receives 
a  blow  with  a  mallet  on  the  forehead,  which  deprives 
him  of  consciousness  and  motion.  The  next  instant 
he  is  bled  to  death;  and  by  means  of  an  extensive 
system  of  caldrons  and  other  requisites,  the  carcass 
is  speedUy  cleaned,  dressed,  and  hung  up  to  undergo 
the  proper  cooling,  previous  to  being  cut  in  pieces 
and  pickled.  The  largest  of  these  establishments  is 
situated  in  Covington,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Ohio, 
and  consists  of  a  series  of  brick  bmldings,  which  cover 
nearly  two  acres.  Here  an  inclined  plane  leads  from 
the  ground  to  the  top  of  a  house  four  stories  high,  and 
along  this  the  hogs  are  driven  to  an  upper  floor  to  be 
slaughtered,  and  where  as  many  as  4000  can  be  accom- 
modated at  a  time.  The  processes  of  cleansing,  making 
lard,  and  so  forth,  need  no  description.  In  most  cases, 
the  business  of  curing  pork  is  separate  from  that  of 
slaughtering;  but  here  they  are  ujiited;  and  the 
arrangements  for  cutting  up,  pickling,  barrelling,  and 
branding,  are  all  on  a  vast  scale.  An  idea  of  the 
work  gone  through  is  obtained  from  the  single  fact, 
that  the  pickling  takes  place  by  steeping  in  nine  brick- 
built  tanks,  each  of  which  holds  400  barrels  of  pork. 
Upwards  of  12,000  hogs  and  3000  oxen  are  killed, 
piclded,  and  packed  here  in  a  season.  Altogether,  about 
half  a  million  of  hogs  are  so  disposed  of  per  annum 
in  Cincinnati;  but  the  number  varies  according  to 
circumstances;  and  questions  as  to  the  extent  of  the 


OHIO CINCINNATI.  jg- 

'hog  crop/  are  as  gravely  discussed  as  the  crop  of 
wheat  or  Indian  com.  Much  of  the  export  of  pork  is 
to  the  European  markets. 

Something  more  may  be  said  of  the  Queen  City  of 
the  West-what  concerns  her  Hterary  and  educational 
estabhshments  not  having  yet  been  touched  on-but 
this  may  be   left    for    the    commencement    of  next 
chapter. 


1 


m 


CHAPTER    X. 


CINCINNATI    TO    NEW    YORK. 


'  The  life  of  a  Mississippi  steamer  is  five  years/  said  a 
gentleman  with  whom  we  were  conversing  on  the  sub- 
ject of  river-navigation ;  and  he  added,  that  there  was 
so  constant  a  demand  for  new  vessels,  that  about  thirty 
were  built  every  year  in  Cincinnati.  I  went  on  board 
several  of  these  splendid  but  short-lived  steam-boats, 
as  they  lay  on  the  banks  of  the  Ohio,  and  would  have 
gladly  descended  to  New  Orleans  in  one  of  them,  if 
not  warned  to  keep  at  a  respectful  distance  from  the 
lower  Mississippi,  on  accomit  of  the  prevalence  of 
yellow  fever. 

From  the  centre  of  the  long  quay  where  the  steamers 
draw  up  at  Cincinnati,  a  large  and  commodious  ferry- 
boat crosses  the  Ohio  at  short  intervals  to  Covington, 
a  town  still  in  a  rudimental  state,  but  becoming  a  place 
of  residence  for  persons  whose  business  connects  them 
with  Cincinnati.  There  are  a  few  manufactories  in  the 
place,  but  with  these  exceptions,  Covington  does  not 
shew  any  marked  signs  of  activity,  and  the  contrast 
with  the  bustle  of  business  on  the  Ohio  side  is  some- 
what striking.  The  comparative  dulness  is  ascribed 
to  the  disinclination  of  free  emigrants  and  workmen  to 
settle  in  Kentucky,  where  they  would  be  brought  in 
contact  with  slavery. 

To  say  nothing  of  slavery  abstractedly,  anything 
calculated   to   retard   the    development    of   industrial 


CINCINNATI  TO  NEW  YORK.  |jg 

occupation  in  this  fine  part  of  the  country  is  much  to 
be  lamented.    The  Americans  themselves  are  ZceTy 

S>e  tit  Zi^-'^"''^^  "^'y'  '^J°'°i''g  the  Ohio. 

pM;t8  of  the  States,  here  attains  that  peculiar  perfection 
which  adapts  it  for  the  manufacture  of  W.    Se.eS 

tioned  Mr  Longworth,  have,  for  the  last  twenty  years 

attention  to  the  grape;  and  now,  within  a  circle  of 
twenty  mdes,  there  are  upwards  of  300  vineyards,  which 
atety  produced  in  one  year  130,000  gai  of  ^t 
I  had    he  curiosity  to  taste  two  of  the  best  kinds  of 
this  native  product,  made  from  the  Catawba  grape 
one  reseniblcd  a  diy  hock,  and  the  other  was  an^ffer' 
vescmg  champagne,  light  and  agreeable  to  the  palate. 
So  popular  have  these  become,  that  at  no  distant  day 

I  found,  ikewise,  that  under  the  encouraging  auspices 
of  a  horticultural  society,  the  strawberry!  bmught  to 
great  perfection  on  the  banks  of  the  Ohio,  and  tL^ 

arTbfoulT"'  ^^  "™^  "  '^  ""^^l^  «^  «^^  ^^t 

Not  Si^  iT"^  ^  '"'°  *''"'  '"^*'=*  of  Cincinnati. 
Not  satisfied,  however,  with  this  large  local  sale    the 

producers,  I  was  told,  aie  opening  a  trade  ^th  New 

L  ILt"  t*.*?  r^''™  "«  -»*  P-ked  In 

7av  to^r."  ^  r'^  ""''  "^""^  *o  >"«  '^*her  a  long 
way  to  send  strawberries  to  market;  but  when  did  an 
American  think  of  distance? 

vidlff!^  W^^*^?  ""''"^  ^"Joi^d,  and  Kberally  pro- 
vided for,  by  the  laws  of  Ohio,  the  stranger  who  takes 
any  interest  in  such  matters  will  find  in  Cindnnati 

tion  of  the  best  quahty  is  imparted  without  charge 
to  all  pupils  indiscriminately.    Where  free  educatio" 


160 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


I     1' 

! 


exists  in  England,  it  is  a  charity :  here,  it  is  a  right. 
The  natural  fruit  of  a  system  so  exceedingly  bounteous, 
is  an  educated  population,  possessing  tastes  and  aspira- 
tions which  seek  a  solacement  in  literature  from  the 
materialities  of  everyday  life.  I  do  not  know  that  I 
ever  saw  a  town  of  its  size  so  well  provided  as  Cincin- 
nati with  publishers,  libraries,  and  reading-rooms.  The 
Young  Men's  Mercantile  Library  Association  has  a 
most  imposing  suite  of  apartments  fitted  up  as  a  libraiy 
and  reading-room — the  number  of  books  amounting  to 
14,000  volumes,  and  the  reading-room  shewing  a  dis- 
play of  desks  on  which  are  placed  neaily  a  hundred 
newspapers.  Cincinnati  is,  I  believe,  also  favourably 
known  for  its  cultivation  of  the  fine  arts;  and  its 
exhibitions  of  pictures  at  anyrate  shew  that  its  inhabit- 
ants do  not  employ  all  their  time  in  mere  money- 
making.  In  the  cathedral  of  St  Peter,  there  are  some 
valuable  paintings  by  European  artists ;  one,  by  Murillo, 
having  been  a  gift  from  Cardinal  Fesch. 

My  return  from  tliis  interesting  city  of  the  West 
was  made  by  means  of  the  railway  to  the  flourishing 
city  of  Cleveland,  whence  I  proceeded  by  a  continuation 
of  the  line  to  Bufialo,  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Erie.  In 
quitting  Ohio,  where  so  many  indications  of  advance- 
ment present  themselves,  I  would  take  leave  to  remind 
intending  emigrants,  that  for  fertility  of  soil  and 
geniality  of  chmate,  they  wiU  find  few  places  within  a 
moderate  distance  which  can  match  this  exceedingly 
fine  state.  For  its  crops  of  Indian  corn  and  wheat,  its 
wool,  beef,  and  pork,  it  enjoys  a  wide  celebrity;  and, 
as  has  been  seen,  its  southern  and  picturesque  frontier, 
with  an  Italian  climate,  yields  a  much-admired  variety 
of  wines.  In  the  more  cleared  parts  of  the  state,  land, 
of  course,  sells  at  a  comparatively  high  price — say,  at 
from  thirty  to  fifty  dollars  pc  r  acre ;  and  therefore  this 
is  not  a  district  for  the  settlement  of  a  humble  class  of 


CINCINNATI  TO  NEW  YORK.  ,« 

101 

e«s,  who  look  to  the  i^naediate  acqui..U„n  of 

In  trayelling  through  the  state  of  Ohio,  some  of  thP 
land  IS  seen  to  be  stiU  under  forest  ■  ^r^A 
places,  to  aecommodateThe  line  of 'r.^         '"™'~™ 
^s  been  eleared  t^o^tt^^i:i:t7taTl' 

wh^verthe^^Xre^SroS-li^t^at 
™e  tr  r"°"  "^P'^-'^Sers.     The  train  tha    eS 
me  iiom   Cmcmnati  consisted  of  six  cars    inelnrL 
among  the  passengers  a  nun,  ,cr  of  pe-^e^  X tw 
baaket  in  hand,  went  from  ear  to  c^;    L %" '' 
vvas  m  motion,  offering  books  and  ne^spapl  for  si 
One  of  these  travelling  merchants  went  to  work  S^  a 
methodical  manner.     First    ,„  .„.i  •       i  ■  ,       ^ 

left  wit),   ..„i  '        ™akmg  his  rounds,  he 

left  with  each  passenger    a  circular  descriptive  and 

forbidden.     Besides  visits  from  the  ti-affiekcrs  in  books 
and  newspapers,  the  passengers  in  the  train  were  wXd 

^ater^'tal-  "  T°  ""■  '''^''^'^^  ^^^ 
waier.     With  a  tin  waterinff-pot  in  one  h^^A    „r.A 

tumbler  in  the  other,  he  rfsp'ectMy "ddrltd  each 
person  m  turn.  The  providing  of  water  in  this  ma^er 
seems  to  be  pai-t  of  the  railway  system  in  the  uS 
States  I,  at  least,  saw  few  trainB%rithout  a  suppjfof 
water  for  pa.sengei-s.  Sometimes  a  vase  and  driS^ 
gte  oceupy  a  spare  corner  in  the  ear,  and  ^^^l 
s  left  to  take  care  of  himself;  but  more  freqnentlv 
the  water  i.  earried  round  for  general  aecommoS 
As  vases  of  water  arc  hkewise  exposed  for  publielT^ 

behef  that  the  Americans   are    the   greatest  water. 


162 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


m 


drinkers  in  the  world — whether  as  a  matter  of  taste 
or  necessity  I  am  not  able  to  say. 

It  is  an  mifortunatc  peculiarity  in  American  railways, 
that  certain  states  have  adopted  different  gauges,  so 
tliat  a  break  necessarily  takes  place  in  passing  from  one 
to  another.  In  tlie  journey  I  was  now  performing, 
I  had  occasion  to  leave  the  state  of  Oliio ;  pass  through 
about  twenty  miles  of  the  state  of  Pennsylvania;  and 
finish  in  the  state  of  New  Yoik.  In  each  of  these 
states,  the  tracks  were  of  a  different  width,  and  the 
Bliifting  was  anything  but  agi'ceable.  One  of  the 
changes  took  place  at  the  town  of  Erie,  which,  as 
may  be  kno^vii  by  scraps  of  intelligence  in  the  English 
newspapers,  has  lately  gained  a  most  unenviable  noto- 
riety for  unlawfid  outrage.  The  cause  of  this  disreput- 
able procedure  is  singular.  The  proprietors  of  the  line 
being  desirous  to  extend  the  New  York  gauge  through 
the  adjoining  part  of  Pennsylvania,  and  so  make  one 
break  less  in  the  length  of  railway,  the  people  of  Erie 
became  alarmed  at  the  prospect  of  trains  passing 
through  their  town  without  stopping;  and  to  prevent 
this  calamity,  they  tear  up  the  rails  as  fast  as  they  are 
laid  doAvn.  I  believe  that  in  attempting  a  uniformity 
of  gauge  at  the  spot,  so  as  to  avoid  breaking  bidk, 
the  railway  is  transgressing  some  pre-arrangement  with 
the  parties  interested ;  but  into  the  actual  merits  of  the 
quarrel  I  do  not  go.  What  is  to  be  lamented,  is  the 
continuance  of  a  series  of  outrages  for  months,  to  the 
derangement  of  traffic  and  the  great  scandal  of  the 
American  peojjle;  for  foreigners  who  hear  of  these 
strange  doings,  naturally  impute  them  to  a  disregard 
for  law,  and  a  culpable  negligence  or  weakness  on  the 
part  of  the  executive  power.  Assuming  that  the  inha- 
bitants of  Erie  should  ultimately  and  legally  enforce 
the  stoppage  of  trains  and  breaking  of  bulk  Avithin  their 
city,  it  will  be  interesthig  to  note  what  the  country  to 


CINCINNATI  TO  NEW  YORK 

"bout  the  Erie  ouCrtW  r'"^^*'"^™^  *"»? 
the  mayor  of  the  cilv  T^,!  '^  ""^  P''°'"<"ed  by 

~ofthesU!f^:L:;;Sr^eai„hyth^ 

:"i8ra:^h:^t^:r"4r-°-^^^^^ 

conduct;.!  war  00812  ^  S  T""''  ''"'"^  ""^  ""^«^«Wy 
Wtants,  and  i.  a  subs  antWlt  S  "7"''''  ^°'°°°  '"'>''- 
looking  town  Con.^!  T  '  """^  '"''^*  respectable- 
have  feledto  ex^aS  'T'""'  ^^^^'o -uld  not 
foot  of  Lake  Erie  tt  t),        ™P°'-'^°'=«-    I*  stands  at  the 

"  now  a  centra]  noiutl.  „  ^  -^  *°'"  ""^  «™e,  it 
ite  advantages  h.^  rt  JtT'  """''^^'  *">«  '''*^^'  "^ 
the  Brantford  and  Go^S  line'"^  *  ^'^'"»^«»  -th 
Canada.   The  tow«  jT,.     «  '  """^  °P«'"«'  thronsh 

the  Canadian  Ce  t"  l^  T^f  °™'  ^^e  lake  afd 
stantly  plying  Theb,!L  Vf  ®^  ferry-boats  are  con- 
the  lake'  iJaJ^o^^f'^'T  "'"' "'''''  ™-«l^  ^o' 
ance,  I  should™ ^^^  Tore^"*' -^  *°  all  appear. 

-ts  Of  trade  anJcom^trtru^ldrr^^ 

«...  ™c.«,  ,„,,„i  ,„,„  „,.  ,x ;  „lt  ™7,  ^ "  ™°"  ""^«"' 

taght  from  Cleveland  for  Buffalo  „c™T,Tl,  '  "  "', f '»'"  "»"■  """i"i.'g 
•topped  ..  Erie,  .„d  11,.  proper,.  l^Tr.  "h  T*" ' '''""'  '""""'I  »'  W"S 
;-»  pro,„p>lyo„  .he  grL/d.  /n  d  ™:  £•„  f"  ^''"«' »"''« --"-"s' 
"»*  f"".  l>«ing  removed,  making  J,J2t,7  I,  ^'""  '°  f"™"'  "» 
to  aid  him  i„  enfercing  the  kw,  andl^  '™' W"' '"  ".»»  "to  were  present 

"ftheeompan,.  ThLpeeU^,  wCrrre'^^f-'T"'""''"'''''' 
l»m.ttod  «,.  employe,  ef  Ih,  n  .,  Jr„; '"  f  "f  *'  °'  ""  WL  «"<1 
to  add,  that  lhi3  fresh  onttorst  of  K-L  l!  f  >  '"'  """'  ™*-  "  "  P™per 
the  travel  between  Buffalo  and  h  ^ZtTTT"'  ""' '""""'"  ""'  "'''^ 
«  .imply  made,  as  we  a,,  inf.™.d  a  n"e,n»  f  "*°" '""'  '  '""  '"'■  "^ 
pa..ing  Erie  without  breakin,  hull  -  .""    k   f  P":™"""^  '"W't-ear,  f„„ 

°  — '"  "™  '«(.«««,  March  17,  1864, 


164 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


After  seeing  so  much  of  the  hustle  of  husiness  in 
Cincinnati,  Cleveland,  and  P^'^alo,  if-  was  a  grateful 
relief  to  make  a  leisurely  joumi  y  through  that  charm- 
ingly retired  part  of  the  8t:'te  of  New  York,  in  which 
lie  several  small  lakes,  celebrated  for  the  picturesque 
and  rural  beauty  of  their  environs.  My  way  was  by 
the  small  town  of  Batavia,  from  which  to  Canandaigua, 
situated  on  a  lake  of  the  same  name,  the  ^ountry  was  of 
a  very  pleasing  character.  Instead  of  being  a  dead  and 
monotonous  level,  the  sm-face  became  diversified  with 
hill  and  dale;  white  villages  and  churches  occurred  at 
proper  intervals ;  the  gromid  was  generally  cleared  and 
under  good  farming  j  and  only  so  much  forest  was  left 
as  served  to  ornament  the  landscape.  For  a  tract  of 
forty  or  fifty  miles  along  this  route,  witli  Canandaigua 
as  its  centre,  the  coimtry,  so  far  as  I  had  an  opportu- 
nity of  judging,  is  one  of  the  most  pleasing  parts  of 
America.  Western  New  York,  however,  is  nearly  all  a 
choice  district;  and  as  it  has  now  been  settled  for  a 
long  period,  it  shews  numerous  tokens  of  an  advanced 
condition.  We  see  fields  in  which  there  are  no  stumps 
— always  a  sm-e  sign  of  antiquity ;  and  one  fancies  from 
the  look  of  the  villages,  that  he  might  find  in  them  as 
many  as  tliree  generations  of  inhabitants. 

Although  prepared  by  these  appearances  of  maturity, 
which  greatly  reminded  me  of  home,  I  was,  notwith- 
standing, surprised  by  the  staid,  and — I  must  use  the 
word — genteel,  aspect  of  Canandaigua.  Excepting  that 
many  of  the  houses  were  of  wood,  there  was  little 
to  suggest  the  idea  that  we  were  out  of  England. 
Imagine  a  pretty  piece  of  country,  with  hiUs  of  moderate 
height  clothed  in  woods  of  brightly  variegated  foliage 
— a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  fourteen  miles  long  and 
from  one  to  two  miles  in  breadth,  glittering  like  a  gem 
amidst  these  picturesque  elevations — and  on  a  broad 
slope  rising  from  the  northern  extremity  of  the  lake,  a 


CINCINNATI  TO  NEW  YORK 

is  Cana„daig„a;r;?r'f'^,7„^«ion      Such 
land    of   everlasting    bustle-fTZ,?  T""^^  '"  » 

lake,  the  main  street  "S  ^'",    ?'  ""^^"  "^  '^e 
as  a  fashionable  s„Tar^=  ifj     ,     '  '""^'  """>  ^«  broad 
America,  it  is  Cd7r,  eJt     r''  ^f'  '^  ''  '^"^  '» 
which  offer  an  iZeeable  !?  f '  *'*  "  '°^  "^  t-ecs, 
centre,  this  spaeS^nhtothfLr-  '"""""•     ^'  *« 
angles  by  another  streTit  1- 1  T'""  "'  "g''* 
been  laid,  so  aa  to  male  the  11        *'  ^'""'y  ^as 
middle  of  the  town     Adl  „,„?""'  '""''"y  '»  *« 
find  a  hotel  of  thTordtXl^J^^C"  ^"'"*'  ™ 
I  can  recommend  for  its  ^od  ^      '^'"^'^"'n^.  which 
suitable  conveniences  Yn  fC    '"™"«<»»«nt-     With  aU 
establishments,    S  "  and'cr  f  °''^' ^''^^''^^^ 
taste,  and  wit'h  so^'^of^'j^Ttl   T7''''  *° 
town  of  villas,  and  eardcns^l!,  ""'  ■='*'''  t^'s 

^een  paddoek;  for  sfe  fho^^  "1^1°'  ^T'  ^""^ 
equ  pages  driving  abont  mak  ^^  ^LZa  TI  f^'l* 
boatmg  and  fishing,  is  really  th!  Wide^  V'^^'"' 
whe.  one  wonld   like   to^d  ^'^ulef  ete^,^ 

~n  ItSl^'in'^f  *™  "  *•"*  ""^^  -*  no 
who  had  been  l^o^  "Ci c^n  ^tr^X^'"','^^'- 
glad  to  have  an  opnortunit^    'me  country,  and  I  was 

J-espeeting  the  prirof  t„7^d^ttr\"''^^^ 
impori:ance  to  emiffrant,      x  I,  ?  '"Ejects  of 

that  the  westemS  if  the  7!  ''^r^^  ""^"tioned 
from  geniahty  of 'cKmate  fei  ttof  '?."''  """^  •^' 
advantages,  eLcdingly  di^Ue  |r  f^  ^^^^  "'^"^ 
agriculturists.      At    V-,^Zi  ,  '^  settlement  of 

various  kinds  4\e'tZtjZ  '^TVT  ■  "' 
corresponding  to  the  advanced  Jj1^'^C^±^"l 

-  -i  i'^o^cii,^;  and 


166 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


if  uncleared  or  partially  cleared  lands  are  wanted,  they 
also  can  be  had  without  trouble,  and  at  a  very  moderate 
cost.* 

Any  one  looking  at  a  map  of  the  States,  will  observe 
that  in  this  part  of  the  country  there  is  a  number  of 
lakes,  besides  that  of  Canandaigua,  the  whole  stretching 
in  the  same  direction  parallel  with  each  other.  All  are 
beautiful,  with  pretty  towns  in  ther*  vicinity — Geneva, 
at  the  head  of  Seneca  Lake,  being  one  of  the  largest  of 
the  group.  According  to  geologists,  the  several  valleys 
embracing  these  sheets  of  water  were  at  one  time — but 
who  can  tell  how  long  ago  ? — the  channels  of  outlet  of 
Lake  Ontario,  which  thus  found  its  way  to  the  Hudson. 
No  one  can  travel  by  the  line  of  railway  which  pursues 
its  course  along  the  heads  of  the  different  lakes  to 
Syracuse  and  Utica,  without  seeing  evidences  of  the 
action  of  rushing  water  on  the  face  of  rocky  steeps, 
and  being,  accordingly,  impressed  with  the  belief  that 
great  changes  must  have  taken  place  in  this  interesting 
district. 

The  railway  from  Canandaigua,  which  is  an  extension 
of  that  from  Rochester,  passes  successively  through  a 
number  of  towns  rapidly  growing  in  size,  and  attaining 
considerable  importance  as  seats  of  manufactures.  The 
principal  town  of  this  kind  is  Syracuse,  celebrated  for 
its  extensive  manufacture  of  salt  from  brine-springs. 
The  water  is  pumped  from  deep  wells,  and  the  salt  is 
made,  according  to  quality,  either  by  solar  evaporation, 
or  by  boiling.  There  are  now  about  200  manufactories 
of  this  article,  and  as  much  as  5,000,000  of  bushels  are 
produced  annually.  The  land  in  which  the  wells  are 
sunk  being  public  property,  the  state,  as  I  understand, 

*  Larger  or  smaller  quantities  of  land,  of  excellent  quality,  may  be 
purchased  at  the  office  of  J.  Greig,  Esq.,  Canandaigua.  The  person  in 
charge  of  the  office  is  Mr  Jeffrey,  a  gentleman  from  Edinburgh,  who  will 
afford  all  proper  information,  and  in  whom  every  confidence  may  be  placed. 


^ 


.?  r' 


Ig 


I 


CINCINNATI  TO  NEW  rOEK. 

receives  as  duty  a  cen*  >«-v  bi.Ael     As   <!  '" 

situated  on  the  Eric   "knal    «n7'  ^""^^  '» 

raU^y  in  different  dir    r"'    """'"""■"""ieates    by 
for  trade :  it  is  a  well-ouilt  '  • ,,     """"^  '^""«e» 

Soutlawards  Irom  ";  ^  :   C^'t  ^'"^"^  ""y- 
vaUey  of  tlie  Mohawk  a    '     '  "^'"'^  «"''  ■»*"  ^e 

town  of  Utica    „Td;  teTLr^'f,""™'^^ 
Little  Falls,  a  smaU  but  h,       .^       d'sclosed.    At 

rocky  protuberars  and  oveZan r  ^^O.-ong 
nver  dashing  and  leanin,.  Zf  T  ®  ''''*'  ^^  *» 
draughtsman  Conld  find  T  '  ™«^"''  ^'«"™>'  ""C 
pencil,  equal  in  pktofsl  bT'IT  '"''•'^•=''  ''"^    h« 

points  in'  Swisses;:.     wtnT"  "'I'"'  "^'^ 
0%  seventy  years   liav/ ti        7  .     ®  consider  that 

the  whole  of^rit^STth  Swrhw'""^  "^"^'^ 
was  a  wilderness  possessed  by  wfes   J    "^  """""^ 
present  condition  as  an  nn™      «     ?   "^  Indians,   its 
;ith  thriving  cMe:  degT^^iotr  ^  • ''°™''^' 
farm-establishments  seems  lir;,  "^^  ™Proved 
man  at  Canandaignk  toU  ^^'!  "^"1" "'"•   ^  S^""«- 
^o,  he  could  not^each  ^ATb  n*^'  ^^^^y  ^-» 
the  journey  being  one  of  great  toil  m-T    1.    /  ''^^^ 
the  distance  is  performed  Vla^av-n,t         ^ow. 
My  previous  vi»,t  t„  a, 7  ^'7"^  "» ten  hours. 

I  no?rraSersom.^L?inT'  ^^  ^"^  ''™'"' 
State-house,  public  11"^^',  *'  P'''^^'  *"  ^^  "s 

h^hment.    'oCe  s;l':hTC, "::  u^ ttf  t^ 

^a:-r„ran°djif:^tif^9^^^- 

meetings  of  the  legislatn're  nf  l^  ?''  ''"''*^'*  *"  *« 
In  connection  withTt   T 1      ^  "''  ^"^  ^''*- 

volumes,  fo?  t"    u  'e  TJ^T  "  '^"'"■^  "^  30,000 

pubHc.  'a  considerable  ^Lwlet  T"  *°  *^ 
best  English  editions,  no  expense  V»  ^"  "'  °^*« 

cure  works  of  the  hikest  S  •     ^^  "^^'"^  *"  Pro- 

Adjoining  is  an  extt^e  W-.l^"^.  ''*^-*-«- 

— ""^j'     iimong  the 


168 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


more  interesting  works  shewn  to  strangers^  is  a  series 
of  large  volumes,  embracing  the  printed  legislative 
proceedings  since  the  English  organisation  of  the 
colony.  It  is  interesting  to  observe  in  the  series,  how 
at  the  Revolution,  the  British  royal  arms  and  styles  of 
expression  are  quietly  dropped,  and  followed  by  the 
republican  forms,  as  if  no  break  had  taken  place  in  the 
course  of  procedure.  One  of  the  volumes  during  the 
colnTiinl  regimj  purports  to  be  printed  by  Franklin. 
There  are  likewise  shewn  some  old  colonial  charters 
from  the  king  of  England — dingy  sheets  of  vellum, 
kept  as  curiosities  in  glass-cases,  along  with  mummies 
from  Thebes,  and  other  instructive  antiquities.  It 
is  pitiable  to  see  '  George  the  Third,  King  of  Great 
Britain,  France,  and  Ireland,'  as  he  is  styled  in  hese 
old  wiits,  reduced  to  this  condition;  but  at  the  same 
time,  it  must  be  allowed  that  if  George  and  his  advisers 
had  possessed  a  little  more  discretion,  his  charters 
and  those  of  his  descendants  might  have  been  living 
utilities,  instead  of  obsolete  curiosities. 

At  the  time  of  my  visit,  a  new  budding  for  a  state- 
library  was  fitting  up  at  an  expense  of  80,000  dollars. 
On  the  opposite  side  of  the  square  stands  the  State-haU, 
containing  the  administrative  ofl&ces  of  the  state;  and 
near  it  is  the  City-hall.  Both  are  of  white  marble, 
and  have  a  fine  architectural  efiect.  In  these  several 
establishments  I  received  every  desired  information; 
and  on  my  departure,  I  carried  with  me  not  only  the 
grateful  recollection  of  much  undeserved  kindness,  but 
presents  of  state-papers  and  reports  on  a  most  mimifi- 
cent  scale.  Of  all  the  states  in  the  Union,  that  of 
New  York  has  excelled  in  the  grandeur  of  its  public 
documents.  Numerous  statistical,  historical,  and 
scientific  investigations  have  been  issued  at  the  ex- 
pense of  the  state,  in  a  series  of  large  and  splendidly 
illustrated  volumes;    and    these    are    imparted   in    a 


CINCINNATI  TO  NEW  YORK. 

169 

manner    so   liberal  and  considerate  as  to  comina„H 
imiversal  respect.  command 

Originally  a  Dutch  settlement,  .Albany  in  the  present 
day  IS    a    substantial    city  of   thoroughly  aSc" 
appearance,   with  about  60,000  inhabifants     rrS 
situation  near  the  head  of  the  navigation  of  thrHud 
son,  renders  it  a  flourishing  emporium  of  co„t 
Steam-vessels  daily  descend  the  Hudson  to  N~rk 
makmg  a  voyage  of  125  mUes;  and  the  retu^TvI^e 
upwards  IS  considered  to  be  one  of  the  most  ag3e 
tops  m  river-navigation.     The  time  of  departr^e  of  t^  ! 
boats  not  being  quite  convenient  for  mT^Z^ldei 
not  by  steamer,  but  by  railway-the  line,  in  many  parts 

of  tte  Tr'  'f!  "T^  °"  P''-  ^*in  theC 
of  the  water,  and  at  other  places  keeping  within  sight 

^  en  b';  T^f  *%"T    ^''^^  -  --•>  h-  bet 
written   by  travellers  of  the  scenerv  nf  flno    u  j 

from  New  York  to  Albany,  it  ZZ  be  cM  tat 

I^should  describe  its  varied  beauties.    ForXt  tte'l 

mdes,  njidway,  it  goes  thronsh  a  pictm^esque  mom 

tainous  distnet,  known  as  the  Highlands  of  the  Hu^^: 

and  here  It  may  be  said  to  resemble  the  Rhine  "lout 

Its  rumed  castles.     Instead  of  these,  we  have  scvm 

forts-among  others.  West  Point,  of  historical  i^tees 

-many  pretty  viUages   and  mansions,   and  heTmd 

here  islands  of  the  rarest  beauty.     In  the  vfcilL  of 

this  mountam-tract,  we  have  the  town  of  Poughreepsie 

on  the  left  or  northern  bank.    For  sundiy  reasoit-Te 

of  them  the  desrre  to  see  an   old  friend,  and  another 

■71   \™"f""'=  ^™«"'=™  ™ter  who  lives  Tthe 
ne,ghbonrhood-I    stopped    at    Poughkeepsie    for    „ 

Zt  be     "'"    t  T"  '''"^g''tf«"Me'  town  can 
hardly  be  imagined.     Not  so  retired  as  Canandai^na 
It  has  yet  a  good  deal  of  its  character.     LyingTS 
in  the  sun  on  the  sloping  bank,  of  tie  Hud'on^  trLnf 
streets  lined  with  trees,  and  its  neisrhbon.bon,!  ,i„°!! 


II 


SI 

ivt 

F  <   ~ 


m 


■'p 


170 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


over  with  detached  villas— some  of  them  in  a  fine 
Elizabethan  style  of  architecture— and  situated  within  an 
hour  and  a  half  by  railway  of  New  York,  it  is  doubtless 
one  of  the  most  pleasant  places  of  residence  for  those 
who  do  not  choose  to  be  in  the  world,  and  yet  not  quite 
out  of  it.  Poughkeepsie  has  several  large  manufactories, 
and  a  considerable  trade  with  the  adjacent  parts  of  the 
countrv;  and  with  a  population  of  14,000, 1  was  assured 
it  does  not  own  a  single  public-house — a  phenomenon 
worth  mentioning. 

One  of  the  days  during  my  stay  was  devoted  to  an 
excursion  to  the  residence  of  Mr  Paulding,  situated  a 
few  miles  from  the  town,  on  a  rising-ground  commanding 
a  view  of  the  Hudson  and  Catskill  Mountains  beyond. 
The  visit  to  the  spot,  with  its  literary  and  other  asso- 
ciations, is  an  incident  long  to  be  remembered  with 
pleasure.  A  ride  by  railway  carried  me  speedily  from 
Poughkeepsie  to  New  York—a  place  far  too  important 
to  be  noticed  at  the  end  of  this  rambling  account  of  my 
journey  eastwards. 


4 


4 


CHAPTER  XI. 

NEW    YORK. 

at  a  certam  dmdvantage;  for  a  true  impre  siln  of  the 

noboa,,  tm  ^^::  it  Varp^p^,;™::;'^*!^- 

situation  of  New  York      A^o       I      ^  /^^erstana  the 

I  now  got  nd  of  this  mystification.  mainland. 

Coming    by   railway   down    the    left    banlc    nf   +T, 

cstuMy,  with  the  picturesque  elevations  of  New  Jersev 
on  the  opposite  shore,  the  train  ran  direetlvlntotte 
torn;  having  crossed  a  .v.-,..:v  strait,  which  "accordir^ 

-endtothce^^:::tfitf<^r:;^^z 

Hudson,  which    s,  in  reality,  on  the  west  oft^  pit 
montory  IS  loc.lly  spoken  of  as  North  Ku-er:  a  nai^ot 
am  of  the  sea  which  .eparaies  New  Tork   ml  r 

than  an  artificial  canal,  which  stretches  from  N< 


J  <■  vi' 


th 


172 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


ii 


i 


ff 


River  to  East  River,  is  named  Haarlem  River.  The 
island  of  Manhattan,  so  formed  by  this  environment  of 
water,  is  about  thirteen  miles  in  length,  by  at  most  two 
in  breadth,  and  terminates  at  its  southern  extremity  in 
a  najTow  and  level  slip  of  ground  known  as  the  Battery. 
Fi'om  this  defensible  point  the  eity  has  crept  gradually 
northwards,  covering  the  whole  island  in  its  progress, 
and  is  already  from  three  to  four  miles  long,  with  plans 
of  extension  that  will  finally  eaiTy  it  to  the  limits  of  the 
island,  and,  it  may  be,  far  beyond. 

Reaching   the   city  by  a  back-way,   as   it  may  be 
called,  we  have  the  opportunity  of  seeing  the  worst 
side   first— straggling  half-built   streets,  with   shabby 
stores,  lumber-yards,  heaps  of  rubbish,  petty  wooden 
houses,  and  a  general  aspect  of  disorder.   At  an  assigned 
point    the    train    stopped,    and    I    imagined   we    had 
reached  the  principal  terminus.     No  such  thing.     Tlie 
delay  was  only  to  detach  the  locomotive,  and  to  take 
the   train  piecemeal  into   town   by   horses.     And   so, 
drawn  by  a  team  of  four  horses  at  a  trot,  the  car  in 
which  I  was  seated  went  smartly  up  one  street  and 
down  another— the  rails  being  laid  in  the  causeway- 
till   we    reached    the    heart   of   the   busy   metropolis. 
Attaining  the  place  of  disembarkation  at  last,  a  scene 
of  indescribable    confusion    ensued,    and   I   began  to 
experience  the  effects  of  those  imperfect  police  arrange- 
ments for  which  New   York  unfortunately  suffers  in 
general  estimation.     No  cabs  of  the  ordinary  kind,  but 
hackney-carriages   with   two  horses,   presented   them- 
selves for  hire;  and  the  drivers  seemed  to  be  at  liberty 
to  do  what  they  liked.     After  engaging  one  of  them, 
the  driver  thrust  another  person  in  upon  me,  though 
bound  for  a  different  hotel;   and  I  had  considerable 
difficulty  m  at  length  inducing  another  driver  to  take 
me  solus  to  my  destination- the  Astor  House.     I  may 
say  once  for  all,  that  on  other  occasions  I  had  the  same 


, 


NEW  YORK. 


178 


annoyance  with  the  New  York  haekney-coachmen,  who 
appear  to  stand  at  the  lowest  point  in  the  seaje  of  a 
eto  admitted  to  be  troublesome  in  every  eommunity. 

Months  previously,  I  had  heard  of  the  difficulty  of 
procui-mg  accommodation  in  any  hotel  in  New  York 
and  had  adopted  the  precaution  of  bcpeaking  a  room 
at  the  Astor,  tlu-ough  a  fiiend  in  the  city.  Wtth 
noting,  therefore,  to  fear  on  this  score,  I  was  fortunate 
in  at  once  finding  myself  settled  in  one  of  the  largest 
and  best-condncted  hotels,  and  at  liberty  to  study  ft! 

anything  of  the  kind  in  England,  and  are  about  the 
chief  wonder  m  a  country  celebrated  for  the  gigantic 
scale  of  Its  operations.  B-sannc 

At  the  first  look,  -.ve  see  that  New  York  very  much 
resembles  the  more  .'enscly-built  parts  of  London  The 
houses,  tall,  and  principdly  of  brick,  are  crowded  into 
narrow  streets,  such  as  are  seen  in  the  ncighbolood 
of  Cheapside,  with  the  single  difference,  thlt  many  of 
the  bmldings  are  occupied  in  floors  by  different  branches 

front'Z'tr*  "r'^T  "'  '^^^^  -gn-boardst 
front.     For  the  most  part,  the  houses  have  sunk  floors 

accessible  by  a  flight  of  steps  from  the  foot-pavemen?: 

and  these  eeUar-dwellings  are  very  commonly  usS  foi 

retreats  -the  names  considerately  employed  to  signifv 

brick  edifiees  have  been  removed,  their  place  has  been 
Bupphed  by  tenements  built  of  brown  slndstone;  and 
It  may  be  said  that  at  present  New  York  is  in  p^cess 
of  bemg  renewed  by  this  species  of  structure,  which  s 
elegant  m  appearance,  but,  I  fear,  less  substantial  1 
many  respects  than  a  regard  for  security  wari^ants 
The  more  narrow  thoroughfares  are  at  the  same  time 
widened  and  paved  according  to  modern  *--  ™ 
more  ancient,  thougl 


mch  changed  part  of  the  city 


in 


174 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


which  the  throng  of  business  chiefly  prevails,  is  con- 
fined to  the  southern  division,  stretching  from  the 
Battery  a  mile  northwards;  and  within  this  quarter 
the  breadth  occupied  from  the  North  to  the  East  River 
is  seemingly  about  the  same  as  that  from  the  Thames 
to  Holbom— a  limited  space,  which  necessitates  the 
continual  pressure  northwards,  as  well  as  an  escape  to 
the  opposite  shores  of  the  two  bounding  waters. 

Though  limited  as  to  breadth,  no  site  could  have 
been  more  happily  selected  for  a  gi-eat  commercial  city. 
The  peninsula,  if  it  may  be  so  called,  rises  just  as  much 
towards  the  middle  as  admits  of  easy  drainage,  and  in 
front  and  on  both  sides  is  environed  with  tidal  waters, 
which  present  accommodation  for  any  quantity  of  ship- 
ping. Through  the  centre  of  the  city  lengthwise  runs 
Broadway— the  Fleet  Street  and  Strand  of  New  York 
—and  going  down  any  of  the  cross-streets  on  either 
hand  from  this  leading  channel  of  intercourse,  we  soon 
come  to  a  quay,  presenting  a  line  of  houses  on  one  side 
of  a  busy  thoroughfare,  and  a  crowd  of  steam-boats  and 
shipping  on  the  other.  The  city,  therefore,  so  far  as  it 
can  be,  is  surrounded  by  maritime  traffic.  Nor  could 
any  situation  be  better  chosen  for  defence.  Approach- 
able from  the  Atlantic  by  vessels  of  the  largest  burden, 
its  prospect  towards  the  ocean  is  intercepted  by  a  semi- 
circle of  islands,  which,  fortified  and  commanding  the 
beautiful  bay  which  fronts  the  city  on  the  south,  give 
a  certain  degree  of  security  to  the  position. 

Hampered  as  to  space.  New  York  has  no  room  for 
villas ;  and  in  this  respect  there  is  a  marked  difference 
between  it  and  our  English  cities.  Those  among  the 
more  affluent  orders  who  dislike  living  in  streets, 
require  to  proceed  by  ferry-steamers  across  either  of 
the  two  bounding  waters,  and  on  the  opposite  shores 
find  spots  for  ruralising.  The  narrowest  ferry  is  that 
across  East  River  to  Brooklyn  and  Williamsburg,  on 


NEW  YORK, 


17S 


Long  Island,  now  becoming  thickly  settled  with  a 
population  more  or  less  connected  with  New  York 

tt  It  ofT  ° V'  ''""'  ^'™'  eommnnicat Jw^S; 
the  s  ate  of  New  Jersey,  which  is  pleasingly  fringed 
mth  towns  and  villas;  the  two  most  prominent  pE 

on  these  femes  are  doubtless  the  finest  of  their  chss 

dei^tlir    •  .  ^''  """"''^  floating.platforms!  su^ 
aent  y  large  to  accommodate  several  carriages  in  the 
middle  part,  and  are  provided  with  well-waried  rooms 
for  foot-passengers  at  the  sides.    They  respectively  nl 

to  Brooklyn  ,s  only  a  cent,  and  that  to  New  Jersev  but 
three  cents,  they  command  an  immense  traffic  MU 
toher    0  relieve  the  pressure  of  population  in  New 

S^enMrrrT-'""'*''"*'^  "'^"^  *«  --J  &<»» 
at  the  mouth  of  the  bay;  and  the  scattered  villas  along 
«.e  sloping  shores  of  this  fine  island  are  more  lik! 

Clyde  "than""  'I'^'^'f''''  "'  ""^  *«  '''«*^  "^  ^ 
Wyde,  than  anything  else  in  America.     The  channel 

between  Staten  Island  and  the  southern  fzSem'r: 

Long  Island    is  called  the  Narrows,  through  which 

vessels  mward-bound  proceed  from  the  Atlantt,  and   o 

Ztllr"'^  '-''''''''  '^y'  ^^^  ^^  -=^ficent 

With  so  favourable  a  situation  for  external  ti-afiic 
and  reposing  on  a  river  which  is  navigabi-  for  l.-in 

TboS  foToOO*  "r-T"^''  *°  ''-''  a  Popul^n^f 
neariv  SOoZ'-  ''  '^'  ^"^  "^  disembarkation  for 
fnPn/  '^  emigrants  annually  from  every  comitrv 
ifZ"^-  ^°™"'S  ^  '^«»«  point  for  American  anl 
European  commerce,  a  vast  trade  pours  through  this 

to  the  great  West.    In  the  amount  of  tonnage  of  vessels 
exports  and  imports,  transactions  h.  floating  cap  te ' 


176 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


.f]       4 


v'il 


wealth,  social  importance,  and  munificence  of  institu- 
tions, New  York  keeps  considerably  aliead  in  the 
United  States;  and  the  traveller  who  has  in  remem- 
brance its  rise  from  small  beginnings  so  late  as  the 
seventeenth  century,  will  not  fail  to  be  struck  with  its 
present  proportions. 

The  principal  object  of  curiosity  in  or  about  New 
York,  is  the   Croton  Aqueduct,  which  few  strangers 
miss   seeing.     The  works   connected  with  this   great 
undertaking  are  on  a  scale  which  reminds  us  of  the 
stupendous  aqueducts  of  the  ancient  Romans.    Bringing 
water  from  a  distance  of  forty  miles,  and  requiring  in 
their  coui-se  a  lofty  bridge  across  Haarlem  Eiver,  the 
works  cost  14,000,000  doUars,  or  near  upon  £5,000,000 
sterling— an  immense  sum  to  raise  from  public  rates 
to  supply  a  city  with  water.     The  discharge  of  water 
is  stated  at  60,000,000  of  gaUons  per  diem;  and  even 
this    large    quantity  is    not    more    than   is   required. 
Having  visited  this  marvel  in  engineering,  little  remains 
to  attract  curiosity.     Interest  is  centered  in  Broadway, 
and  mainly  towards   its   southern   extremity.     Here- 
abouts are  the  handsomest  public  buildings,  the  finest 
stores,   some   of  the   largest  hotels,  and  the  greatest 
throng  of  passengers.     At  about  half  a  mile  from  the 
Battery,  we  have  on  the  line  of  Broadway  an  opening 
eaUed  the  Park,  which  though  only  a  railed-in  patch 
of  ground,   with  a  few   t  -ees   and  footpaths   through 
it,  is  a  very  acceptable  breathing  spot  in  the  midst  of 
everlasting  bustle. 

Some  traveller  speaks  of  the  buildings  of  Broadway 
as  being  a  mixture  of  poor  wooden  structures  and 
splendid  edifices.  There  may  be  a  few  houses  of  an 
antiquated  class,  but  any  such  general  description  is 
totally  inadmissible  in  the  present  day.  We  see  for  the 
greater  part  of  its  length,  a  series  of  high  and  handsome 
buildings,  of  brown  sandstone  or  brick,   with  several 


NEW  YORK. 


177 


of  white  marble  and  granite.     Some  of  the  stores  an,l 

tecture,  these  edifices  ai-e  more  like  the  palaces  of  kin», 
than  places  for  the  transaction  of  business.     New  YoT 

goods,    the  common  phrase  for  aU  kinds  of  elothZ 
and  haberdashery;  and  its  shops  or  stores  for  the  re teU 

Stewarts    Store,   a  huge  building   of   white  marble 

largest  of  these  concerns,  and  the  amount  of  business 
done  m  ,t  ,3  stated  to  be  above  7,000,000  of  doUars 
per  annum.  It  is  useless,  however,  i„  a  place  of  such 
rap.d  change  and  improvement,  to  point  out  nyed  fi  e 
as  cxcellmg  another.  In  various  parts  of  Broirw 
and  Boweiy,  large  and  elegant  buddings  are  s^ng 
into  existence  at  a  cost  perfectly  startli^;  and  so  S 

«pense"orco'T  ^^'"^  f  "^''^^^  »"  *«  ~^S 
expense  of  conducting  business,   that  I   should  fear 

things  are  going  a  little  too  far  for  the  ultimate  benem 

Onl    f?^,1 ''"'  "^  '"^'"^^  manufacturing  indu^^ 
One  of  the  latest  opened  of  the  new  and  gorgeously  fine 

lfr;,"/'^'°l'^  Kestauraiit-an  'estlbhshment 
some  «^  thmlc,  much  too  fine  for  the  uses  to  which  it  is 

Appletou  &  Co.,  publishers;   its  extent  and  grandeur 

m  which  the  publishers  of  London  cai-ry  on  their 
business.  The  activity  displayed  in  resolving  upon  and 
eomplcting  any  scheme  of  improvement  in  tMsg^eai 
city,  pervades  every  branch  of  affairs.  I„  eonlS 
business,  there  is  no  pause,  and,  as  eircumsto^ces  sh  ^^ 
sometimes  too  much  huiiy.  There  is,  however  in 
every  department  of  commerce,  a  stimiJus  t„  a.«o  " 


,.:,**.  .^:; '   • 


178 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


arising  from  the  vast  demands  of  a  country  growing 
BO  rapidly  in  population  and  wealth.     An  instance  of 
this  came  under   my  notice   at   tlie   great   fire  which 
consumed  the  printing  and  publishing  establishment  of 
the  Messrs  Harpers.     Perceiving  that  the  wliolc  of  the 
steam-presses  were  consumed,  and  no  means  left  for 
carrying  on  operations  on  the  spot,  a  party  connected 
with  the  firm,  and  while  the  fire  was  still  burning,  sent 
off  by  electric-telegraph  to  engage   aH  the   available 
presses  of  Buffalo  and  Cincinnati !     In  New  York,  so 
valuable  is  time,  and  so  speedily  are  decisions  come 
to,   that  on  the  very  next  day  after  a  fire,  we  may 
observe  builders  engaged  in  the  work  of  reconstruction. 
American   minutes  would   seem   almost   to   be  worth 
English  days ! 

Without  a  court,  and  not  even  the  seat  of  the  state 
legislature.  New  York  cannot  be  said  to  be  the  place  of 
residence  of  a  leisurely  or  a  numerous  Uterary  class. 
Its  more  opulent  inhabitants,  connected  some  way  or 
other  with  business,  form,  nevertheless,  an  aristocracy 
with  refined  tastes,  and  ample  means  for  their  gratifi- 
cation.    Advancing  northwards  from  the   more  busy 
parts  of  the  town,  the  elegance  and  regularity  of  the 
houses  become  more  conspicuous,  and  at  last  we  find 
ourselves  in  the  quietude  and  splendour  of  a  Belgravia. 
Here  the  edifices  are  entirely  of  brown  sandstone,  and 
of  a  richly  decorated  style  of  street  architecture;  all 
the  windows  are  of  plate-glass;  and  the  door-handles, 
plates,  and  bell-pulls  silvered,  so  as  to  impart  a  chaste 
and  light  effect.     The  furnishings  and  interior  orna- 
ments of  these  dwellings,  particularly  those  in   Fifth 
Avenue,  are  of  a  superb  kind;  no  expense  being  appa- 
rently  spared  as   regards  either  comfort  or  elegance. 
In  one  mansion  where  I  experienced  the  most  kindly 
hospitality,  the   spacious   entrance-hall  was  laid  with 
tasselated  marble  pavement;  the  stair  and  balustrades 


,. 


I 


,.. 


NEW  YORK. 


170 


were   of  dark   walnut- wood  •   otip  nf  +t,«        -x 
wa.  paneM  in  the  oia1:roZ  tZr^Tl 
magnificent  du^ng.room,   the  Garble  ehiin"  pL" 

r  *,  Tt''^  """'•'  "sures  illustrative  of  bS 
Hwhland  Mary,  cost,  as  I  understood,  as  mucTl 

to  JNew  York,  was  aUuded  to  as  aflbrdins  means  for 
cffeetmg  everything  desirable  in  decorativ.  ^Zd  of 
exeludmg  the  necessity  for  importing  EngM.  oL 
ments.  Perhaps  it  is  worth  wLe  to^dd,  that  Xw 
York  rs  not  destitute  of  the  means  for  supp  ying  coatT 
of-anns  to  those  who  desire  such  decorations  for  th  ^ 
carnages,  seals,  and  other  articles.     There  is   indtT 

rob::Jfd  i:B'"^  r^  -  "^^'''^-  m' thTsirfbut 

of  armrl  fi        fT^  ""  estabhshmcnt  where  coats- 

Passmg  over  any  notice  of  the  churches  of  New  York 
-some  of  them  with  handsome  spires,  and  ZeZy 
pcturesque  in  effect-and  also  the  banks,  '^tfj 
rf  attt'.'  P"''''"  f™*"-"^.  *e  edifices  m^st  wortW 

stated  thrt,"'^  ?^  ''"'"''•  "  '•*'  "^'^  -^i-l^-^t^y 
T^:,r  ''"'oWstem  of  the  United  States  is  of 

a  peculiar  character.  I  found  that  it  had  crossed  the 
fronfcr  into  Canada;  but  in  no  part  of  that  Ivince 
had  .t  attamed  full-blown  maturity.   Properly  spea W 

Zl  ''A^''"^  , -^^Pf  "-ents-one  for  ladies  and  famihc 
and  the  other  for  smgle  gentlemen.  AU  are  alike 
welcome  to  come,  stay,  or  go,  as  suits  their  ^ We 
the  charge  bemg  specific  at  so  much  per  day,  wheae^ 
the  guests  attend  meaJs  or  not,  by  which  mLTeve^ 
one  knows  to  a  fraction  beforehand  how  mucHe  ™2 
We  to  pay.    We  could  hai-dly  picture  to  ol" 


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180 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


greater  contrast  than  that  between  an  old  countir  and 

leas  alike  Arriving  at  an  inn  in  England,  you  are 
treated  wih  immense  deference,  allowed  the  seeL"^ 
of  a  private  apartment,  charged  exorbitantly  for  everv" 

door,  as  If  a  prodigious  favour  had  been  conferred  on 
ttie  establishment.     In  the  Umted  States,  things  are 

of  character   possess  the  singular  merit  of  not  being 

W.  ,    ff  "^"'P"''  '""  "'f'""''  *°  "'=*  magnanimously 
Instead  of  looking  to  a  livelihood  from  a  few  customers' 
scheming  petty  gains  by  running  up  a  biU  for  the  use 
of  candles  firin..  and  other  conveniences,  and  smooth 
mg  eveything  over  by  a  mercenary  bow,  the  proprie te 

a  great  concern,   and  would  despise  doing  anything 

lie  notices  neither  yom-  coming  nor  going  •  without 
ceremony  you  are  free  of  the  estoblislimentf  anTwhen 
you  pay  and  depart,  there  aie  no  bows,  no  th=XsIbut 

IZZ.  '^°'  '"""'   ^"-^  "'''*  '^  ^™y^  ^-^^  to  be  a 

In  recollection,  I  am  at  this  moment  arri™..  at  the 

Astor  House,  one  of  the  most  respectable  hotelsin  New 

Z:  tr'' '"'"'°"'' "°  "'""^"^-"^  ''"O  decorain  bT 
Sin!  of  '"=™\«^'*'^*--t-    Before  me  is  a  huge 

of  200%f  /      f  •  T"""'  ^*  ">  *■'•<'"'  o"  Broadwfy 
oi  200  feet,   a  height    of   six    stories,    and  forming 

altogether  an  independent  block,  with  r<^ws  of  S"! 

on  every  side.     The  ground-floor  consists   entMv  of 

e:^Wrht:f  7'""^   '^'^'    "■"^  ascendt;t  t 
aw  witn  4gage  n^:!'irarr^5  TlCttX 


I 


NEW  YORK. 


181 


.    ,  181 

earned  out;  young  men  are  lounging  about  on  ni.  • 
some  persons  are  walking  to  .Jif  ^^"""^^ 

porters  are  seated  on  i,!  J"'''  '"^"^^^  ^°^«^- 

conidors   ^r:1:^e:L'  ^uZ^lt  ^^^^ 

entrance  is  an  access  to  the  W  and  oth!^   "'^"''''  '^' 

name,  takes  dol  Tv^^L       ™'"'"''  "I'P"^'*^  *e 
and  we  and  our  baggage  marr-l,  nff    i  ^'^^''' 

eomdo.  and  „p  Z!:J^:^V:!  z^  t' 

assigned  apartment  ^^^^    *^® 

appropnated  to  single  ffentlom™      rr^  ,         ^""^ 

distinct  in  every  relpocf     TlT      .•      '"  "'"^''^^  ™ 
the  entrance-haU,  Z'^sIaZ         %""  ""^  '^™'  "^ 
parfonrs  devoted  pSewT^okr  !=^>-'^-»'  »d 
and  in  the  opposit^  ^Xl Zit:^tS^:,^r?' 
apartments  used   by  ladies   „„ .    ,  ™  ?  ^'^^^  P"U'o 
not  shut  against  eLJZC   ^ZL'TiT      ' 
httle  pnvaey.      The  whole  house  swarms  like  a  v' 
The  outer  swing-door  bangs  backwTdrand  11  ? 

that,   on  «e::rVla^l%^^-f„Jj'-/-ntio„ 


,*i 


182 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


continental  hotels,  there  is,  generally  speaking,  nothing 
at  all  to  compare  with  this  in  Europe. 

Among    the    novel    parts    of   the   system   are  the 
arrangements  in  the  family  and  lady  department.   Here, 
we  find  ourselves  in   a   kind   of  elysium   of  princely 
drawing-rooms  and  boudoii-s,  in  wliich  velvet,  lace,  satin, 
gQding,  rich  carpets   and  mirrors,  contribute  to  form 
a  scene  of  indescribable  luxury.     What  strikes  us  as 
rather  remarkable,  id  the  fact  that  the  doors  of  these 
various  sitting -apartments   are  generally   wide   open. 
I  saw  this   everyrvhere.     Passing  by,  you  see  highly- 
dressed  ladies  reposing  on  satin  couches,  or  lolling  in 
rocking-chairs.     One,  who  has  just  come  in,  and  still 
has  on  her  bonnet  and  shawl,  is  rattling  over  the  keys 
of  a  piano.     Another  is  reading  a  novel.     Several  axe 
outside  in  the  corridor,  seated  on  velvet-covered  otto- 
mans, talking  to  each  other  or  to  the  gentlemen  belong- 
ing to  their  party.     These  corridors  are  every  whit  as 
elegantly  furnished  as  the  rooms,   and  are  jocularly 
spoken  of  as  ^the  flirtation-galleries,'   on   account  of 
their  qualities  as  places  of  general  resort  and  conversa- 
tion.    Another    recommendable    quality  they  possesa 
is  their   comparative   coolness.     The   drawing-rooms, 
leading  from  them,  are  kept  so  hot  by  staring  red  fires 
of  anthracite  coal,  that  I  am  at  a  loss  to  understand 
how  the  temperature  can  be  endure^d. 

What  between  dressing,  lounging  aLjut  the  suite  of 
dra\nng-rooms  and  flirtation-galleries,  and  attending 
at  meals  in  the  saloons,  the  lady-guests  of  these  hotels 
have  little  time  for  miscellaneous  occupation.  Some 
of  them  appear  in  a  difierent  dress  at  every  meal,  and, 
in  point  of  elegance  and  costliness  of  attire,  they 
Avent  beyond  anything  in  my  poor  experience,  except 
at  full-dress  evening-parties  and  balls.  In  the  more 
moderate  class  of  hotels,  this  attention  to  costume 
is  less   conspicuous,   and  the  ladies  unceremoniously 


I 


i  I 


[ 


NEW  YORK. 


183 


i 


take  their  seats  at  the  top  of  the  table  common  to  aU 
the  guests      In  such  houses,  however,  as  the  Astor, 
famihes  and  ladies  usuaUy  take  their  meals  in  a  saloon 
by  themselves;   and   when   there   are   children,   they 
likewise  have  their    own    special  table-d^h6te.      The 
mention  of    children  in   such   estabhshments   is    not 
suggestive     of    pleasing     recoUections.      Everywhere 
these  youngsters  are  a  sore  trial   of  temper  to  the 
guests  generally.     Flying  up  and  down  the  passages 
mth^oops,   yelling,   ciying,   and  tumbHng   about  in 
eveiybody^s  way,  they  are  clearly   out  of  place,   and 
constitute  an  unhappy  and  outre  feature  in  Amuican 
hotel-life. 

It    need  not  be    supposed,    because    famUies    and 
children  are  seen  to  be  don^osticated  in  hotels,  that  this 
iond  of  housekeeping  is  carried  to  any  great  length 
Young  persons,  for  a  few  years   after  being  married 
and  famihes  in  town  for  the  winter,  are  the  principal 
inmates  of  the  class;  though  it  must  be  admitted  that 
other  circumstances  give  a  bias  towards  this  method  of 
living.     Probably  something  is  due  to  that  choice   of 
viands  cooked  in  first-rate  style,  which   could  not  be 
obtained  m  a  separate  establishment  unless  at  a  very 
high  cost.     The  French  cuisine  predominates,  and  the 
profusion  of  dishes  mentioned  in  the  bills  of  fare  put 
before  guests,  is  such  as  cannot  fail  to  astonish  those 
who  m  England  are  fair  to  dine  off  a  single  joint.    The 
entire  charge  for  board  and  lodging,  service  included, 
m  the  Astor  House,  was  two  doUars  and  a  half,  equal 
to   10s.   English,  per   diem,   for  a   single   individual. 
Ihis  is  a  common  charge  at  the  best  hotels;  in  a  few 
instances  the   charge   being   as    high    as    three,    and 
sometimes  as  low  as  one  or  two  dollars. 

Breakfast  from  eight  to  ten,  dinner  at  ihree,  and  tea 
at  seven,  was  the  routine  at  the  table-d^hote  of  the 
Astor;  on  each  occasion,  about  200  guests  sitting  down 


184 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


at  three  long   and  well-served  tables.      Plere,   again, 
though  looking  for  it  day  after  day,  did  I  fail,  as  on 
previous   occasions,  to   see  the  slightest  approach  to 
hurried  eating ;  and  as  until  the  last  moment  of  my 
stay  in  America  I  never  saw  such  a  thing,  I  am  bound, 
so  far  as  my  observation  goes,  to  say  that  the  national 
reproach  on  this  score,  if  it  ever  was  true,  is  so  no 
longer.     Calling  for  dishes,  by  printed  bills  of  fare,  a 
custom  now  ail  but  universal,  in  reality  renders  any 
scramble  unnecessary.     So  far  from  being  hurried,  any 
man  may  di-aw  out  his  dinner  for  an  hour,  if  he  pleases, 
and  all  the  time  have  a  waiter  in  attendance  at  his  back 
to  bring  him  whatsoever  he  desires.     I  think  it  due  to 
the  Americans  to  make  this  remark  on  a  very  common- 
place topic;    and  likewise  to  say  of  them,  that  their 
temperance   at  table  filled  me  with  no  little  surprise. 
In  the  large  dining-parties  at  the  Astor  (as  at  other 
houses),  there  were  seldom  seen  more  than  one  or  two 
bottles  of  wine.     Nor  did  any  exciting  beverage  seem 
desirable.     A  goblet  of  pure  water,  with  ice,  was  placed 
for  the  use  of  every  guesi ;    and  in  indulging  in  this 
simple  potation,  I  felt  how  little  is  done  in  England 
to  promote  habits   of   sobriety  by   furnishing  water, 
attractive  alike  for  its  brilliant  purity  and  coolness. 

Dropping  off  from  table,  a  number  of  tl  guests 
adjourn  to  the  parlours,  Avhere  they  read  newspapers 
bought  from  boys  who  frequent  the  doorway  and 
passages,  or  they  lounge  idly  on  the  sofas,  or  take  to 
writing  at  the  tables  (never  much  talking,  and  the  doors 
always  mde  open) ;  some  go  out  in  pm-suit  of  business; 
some,  who  like  to  sit  in  the  midst  of  a  fluctuating 
crowd,  betake  themselves  to  the  chairs  in  the  lobby; 
and  some  descend  to  the  bar.  This  latter  place  of 
resort  is  a  large  and  finely  decorated  apartment,  lighted 
from  the  roof,  and  occupying  the  entire  central  courc 
round  which  the  house  is  buUt.     In  the  middle  is  a 


I 


I 


NEW  YORK. 


I.t 


183 


jet  d'eau  and  basin;  at  one  side  is  a  martie' counter 
with  an  attendant  in  charge  of  a  few  bottles  behind  him 
on  a  shelf,  whence  he  supplies  glasses  of  liquor  to  those 
calling  for  them,  and  which  are  paid  for  on  the  spot. 
A  number  of  chairs  are  scattered  about.      Two  fire- 
places, with  blazing  biUets  of  wood,  throw  a  cheerful 
heat  aroimd.     A  young  man  at  a  small  enclosure  is 
seUmg  cigars;  and  on  two  long  stands  are  placed  files 
of  newspapers  from  aU  the  principal  cities  in  the  Union. 
Much  is  said  by  traveUers  of  the  drinking  in  the  bars ; 
but  in  this,  as  in  most  things,  there  is  some  strange 
exaggeration.     The  bar  of  the  Astor,  an  exchange  in 
Its  way,  was  sometimes  tolerably  crowded,  but  I  seldom 
saw  so  many  as  a  dozen  at  a  time  engaged  in  drinking. 
The  greater  number  did  not  drink  at  all;  it  being  one 
of  the  good  points  in  these  establishments,  that  you 
are  left  to  do  exactly  as  you  like.     No  one  heeds  you, 
or  cares  for  you,  any  more  than  in  a  public  street.     A 
unit  in  the  mass,  your  duty  is  to  mind  yourself;  seek 
out  aU  reomsite  information  for  yourself;  and  in  aU 
things  beyond  the  routine  of  the  house,  help  yourself. 
Individuality  in  these  hotels  is  out  of  the  question- 
opposed  to  the  fundamental  principle  of  the  concern, 
which  is   to  keep   open  house  on  a  wholesale  plan! 
You  are  lodged,  fed,  and  in  eveiy  other  way  attended 
to  by  wholesale;  just  as  a  soldier  in  a  barrack  is  sup- 
plied Mith  houseroom  and  rations.     Any  man  pretend- 
ing to  ask  for  a  dinner  in  a  room  by  himself  would  be 
looked  upon  as  a  kind  of  lunatic;  and  when  people  do 
such  a  foolish  thing,  they  have  to  pay  handsomely  for 
invading  the  sacred  practice  of  the  house.     How  other- 
wise could  such  gigantic  establishments  be  conducted? 
Although  crowded  to  the  door,  everything  goes  on  with 
minute  regularity,  Hke  a  finely  adjusted  machine. 

Left  to  himself,  the   stranger  soon   drops  into  tlie 
ranks,  and  strolling  about,  discovers  a  number  of  little 


•SS 


186 


THINOS  AS  THET  ABE  IN  AMERICA. 


We  5L!!  *'?  '^'*"'';  '^g'""™g  ^rith  the  left-hand 
«de.  Ihere  at  a  wicket  in  the  wajl,  hke  an  open 
^dow  stands  a  »an  to  take  your  hat  Lid  upper  coat! 
and  put  them  away  m  a  bin  tiU  you  want  them  Look- 
ing mto  the  place,  you  see  it  surrounded  with  recen- 

f^  f  rl"'T  '■''*  "  ^""^^  •'^  inconvenicTto 
S  "Y  *'  ^'"^''  °'  '"^^'^o™  *<>  '"y  down  care! 
0?  hoLuh-'"  T  "dix'nished  by  placards  to  beware 
of  hotel  thieves  -a  hint  not  to  be  liglitly  disregarded. 
Adjoining  in  a  niche  in  the  lobby,  is  a  i„L  with  bnSh 

fnd  tL^*''  °"  ''  "^  "^'"  "'°'°''  ^*  '^'«™^  of 'vater 
and  towels,  to  save  you  the  trouble  of  mounting  to  your 

ted  oom  before  going  in  to  dinner.     Further  ™nndS 

the  obby,  IS  a  recess  with  a  desk,  pens,  ink,  and  paper 

furnishing  means  at  all  times  to  ^ite  a  h;rricd  X' 

wmch  lead  to  the  bar,  we  come  upon  an  enclosure 
lie  a  sentry  box,  in  which  is  seated  a  elerk  ^h  t"! 
machineiy  of  an  electric-telegraph;  and  on  CdLg 
him  a  slip  through  his  wicket,  he  will,  for  a  triflinf 
sun.,  despatch  a  message  for  you  to  almost  any  ctty 
throughou  the  United  States.  I  made  use  of  IZ 
^ntleman's  wires  on  two  occasions,  in  send^  to 
totant  towns,  and  had  answers  handed  to  me  in  a 
neat  envelope  within  an  hour.  "ne  m  a 

We  now  pass  the  waiter's  form,  and  study  the 
apparatus  of  the  general  book-keeper,  which  oeLri^ 
he  nght  side  of  the  lobby.  Behind  the  coX'  S 
ais  offleer,  we  perceive  a  W-^e  case  of  pigeon-holes 
mth  a  number  over  each,  and  appropriated  for  rece^ 
mg  etos  or  cards  left  for  the  guests'    Knowing  yo» 

depository  under  it,  to  know  if  any  one  has  been  caDing, 
or  If  any  letters  have  arrived  for  you.    At  one  end  of 


!    i 


View  YORK. 


187 


the  counter,  there  is  a  letter-box  into  which  you  drop 
all  letters  for  post,  which  is  another  means  of  saving 
trouble.     But  the  most  curious  thing   of  all,  is  the 
arrangement  by  which  the  official  behind  the  counter 
knows  who  signals  from  his  apartment.     To  have  some 
hundreds  of  bells  would  produce  inextricable  confusion. 
All  the  wires  in  the  house  centre  at  one  bell,  placed  in 
a  case  in  the  lobby,  with  the  whole  mechanism  exposed 
on  one  side  within  a  sheet  of  plate-glass.     The  other 
side  of  this  case  is  covered  all  over  with  numbers  in 
rows.      Adjoining  each  number  is   a  small  crescent- 
shaped  piece  of  brass,  which  drops  from  the  horizontal, 
and  hangs  by  one  end,  when  the  wire  connected  with 
it  is  pulled,  the  bell  being  by  the  same  action  sounded. 
The  altention  of  the  book-keeper  being  so  attracted,  he 
directs  a  waiter  to  proceed  to  the  apartment  indicated, 
and  with  his  finger  restoring  the  bit  of  brass  to  its 
former  posture,  it  is  ready  for  a  fresh  signal.     A  more 
neat  and  simple  arrangement  could  not  well  be  ima- 
gined.    The  fronts  of  these  bell-cases  are   of  white 
enamel,  and  being  set  in  a  gilt  frame,  have  a  pleasing 
ornamental  effect. 

So  much  for  the  Astor,  to  which  there  are  now  many 
rivals  of  equal  or  larger  dimensions— the  Irving  House, 
the  Prescott  House,  and  numerous  others,  including 
the  two  more  recently  established  and  peculiarly  splen- 
did establishments— the  Metropolitan  and  St  Nicholas, 
both  situated  considerably  'up  towji'  in  Broadway! 
The  MetropoHtan,  an  edifice  of  brown  sandstone,  with 
a  frontage  of  300  feet,  is  superbly  furnished,  and  laid 
out  with  100  suites  of  family  apartments,  and  can 
accommodate  altogether  600  guests,  whose  wants  are 
ministered  to  by  250  servants.  Tlie  cost  of  building 
and  furnishing  this  prodigiously  lar.re  house,  is  said  to 
have  been  1,000,000  dollars.  The  St  Nicholas,  I 
believe,  aspires  to  stand  at  the  head  of  its  order.  '  It 


II 


188 


TIIINOa  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


18  a  splendid  structure  of  white  marble,  containing  150 
suites  of  family  apartments,  and  Tvith  accommodation 
for  nearly  800  guests;  I  understood,  indeed,  that  pre- 
parations  were  making  for  the  accommodation  of  at 
least  1000  people.  The  cost  of  this  establishment  has 
been  spoken  of  as  1,030,000  doUaa-sj  but  doubtless 
tins  IS  below  the  mark. 

Some  not   less  interesting  features  of  these  great 

own  hTT.*'  ^"  rt'^-    ^^'^  ^'""''^^y  P"^*  their 
own  bills  of  fare,  which  are  freshly  executed  with  the 

da  e,  daily.     Their  suites  of  hot  and  cold  baths,  their 

bdliard-rooms,  and  their  barbers'  shops,  are  on  a  most 

commodious  scale.     The  Americans  appear  to  be  parti- 

cularly  punctilious   as  regards   their  hair   and   beard 

and  a  frequent  visit  to  the  peruquier  seems  an  indis' 

pensable  part  of  their  personal  economy.     All  English 

gentlemen  in  the  present  day-those  who  rely  on  the 

service  of  valets  excepted-shave  their  o.vn  beard,  for 

which  purpose  they  take  portable  dressing-cases  along 

^ith  them  on  their  jom-neys.    I  never  could  miderstand 

why  the  not  overindulgent  Americans,  lodging  in  the 

great  hotels   or  travelling  by  river  steam-boats,  require 

to  be  shaved  by  professional   tonsors.      At  all  events, 

there,  m  the  barber's  apartment,  in  every  hotel,  are 

seen  seated  a  number  of  gentlemen-mider  the  hands 

of  CO  oui'ed  operators.      And  in  what  luxurious   atti- 

W  T/T"^  ^'f  '''  ^  couch-like  chair,  and  the 
feet  exalted  on  a  velvet-covered  rest,  we  have  a  picture 
of  ease  and  lassitude  which  I  should  fancy  is  only  to  be 
matched  m  the  dressing-rooms  of  nobles  and  princes 

Perhaps  It  may  be  expected  that  I  should  say  a  word 
on  that  subject  of  everlasting  condolence-sen  ants.  I 
was  agreeably  disappointed  to  find  that  the  Americans 
are  not  so  badly  off  for  domestic  assistance  as  they  are 
usually  represented  to  be.  A  gi'cat  change  for  the 
better  m  this  respect  has  lately  occurred,  through  the 


mwm 


11 


NEW  YORK. 


180 


influx  of  Insh      It  is  ^vonderful  to  notice  how  soon  an 
Inshman  m  a  long-tailed  ragged  coat  and  patched  knee- 
corduroys,  is  transformed  into  a  hotel  garcon,  dressed 
neatly  m  a  white  jacket  and  pants,  combed,  brushed, 
and  rendered  as  amenable  to  discipline  as  if  under  the 
orders  of  a  drill-sergeant.      Thus  smartened  up,  the 
Insh   have   become  a  most   important  people  in  the 
United  States.     Irish  girls,  who  would  fail  to  find  an 
open  door  in  London,  are  here  received  with  a  sigh  of 
delight;  and   what   American  housewives   and  hotel- 
keepers  would  now   do  without   them,  is  painful  to 
reflect  upon.     It  being  apparently  a  fixed  maxim  in 
the  mmd  of  every  white  man  and  woman  in  the  States, 
that  domestic  service  is  intolerable,  the  inpouring  of 
Irish  has  solved  an  immense   difficulty.      Numerous, 
and  spread  over  a  wide  region,  this  useful  people  have 
already  dispossessed  in  a  great  degree  the  coloured  race 
who,    consequently   pushed    into    humbler    situations' 
suffer,  1     may  be  presumed,  an  aggravation  of  their 
sufficiently  unhappy  lot.      I  found  corps   of  coloured 
^^iters  chiefly  in  Canada.    At  only  one  place  (Congress 
HaU  Hotel,  Albany)   did  I  see   them  in  any  of  the 
northern    states.      Whether   white    or    colonred,    the 
waiters   in    every  hotel,    when    attending    table,    are 
marshalled  into  the   saloon,   each   carrying  a  plated 
dish  m  his  hand,  the  procession  reminding  one  of  the 
theatrical  march  in  Aladin ;  and  in  the  setting  down 
and  uncovering  these  dishes,  and  walking  off"  with  the 
lids-the  whole  corps  moving  off'  in  line-they  obey  a 
fugleman  with  that  mihtary  precision,  which  among  a 
people  less  imperturbable  than  the  Americans,  conld 
scarcely  fail  to  excite  a  certain  degi-ee  of  merriment. 

The  laundry  departments  of  the  American  hotels 
ought  not  to  be  forgotten  in  the  list  of  mar^^els.  Placed 
under  the  management  of  a  special  clerk,  who  records 
aU  necessaiy  details,   the   arrangements  for  washino- 


100 


THINOS  AS  THEY  AM  IN  AMERICA. 


Jirying,    and   ironing,   would   Mtonish   any   ordinarv 

^Tcc  ;.  '>"*  wnng  out  tl,e  .vet,  and  cause  thf 
sticks  to  pa™  through  currents  of  hot  air,  so  as  to 
turn  them  out  ready  for  the  imner  in  the  space  of  a 

r/l!  t'  J-"'™  ^"'  «™'7*ing  washed  and  dressed  as 

his  colr^  ''^  '""  '"'"'^-     Amngemen  s  fo 
his  comfort  do  not  stop   here.      In  New  York    and 

part,  have  a  range  of  shops  or  stores  on  the  ground, 
floor,  front.„g  the  street,  adapted  to  supply  thf  want 

Zdt2  '""'';  n°'e:Paper,  perfumery,  medicine^ 
1  ,,.r  '."^  *"""'  "  *«««  *ops,  Which  in  one 
pkee  (Washington)  I  found  were  connected Vu  the 
hotel  by  a  baek-entrance  f«,m  the  main  eorridrr  Z 
American  hotel  is  not  a  house :  it  is  a  town 


CHAPTER    XII. 


NEW     YORE      CONCLUDED. 

Standing  on  the  steps  of  the  Astor  House,  we  have 
the  thoroughfare  of  Broadway  right  and  left,  with  the 
Park  in  front— Bamum's  theatre,  covered  with  great 
gaudy  paintings,  across  the  way— and  can  here  perhaps 
better  than  anywhere  else,  observe  the  concourse  of 
passengers  and  vehicles.     Accustomed  to  the  flow  of 
omnibuses  in  London,  the  number  of  this  variety  of 
pubhc  conveyance  though  great,  does  not  excite  sui-prise 
That  which  appears  most  novel,  is  the  running  to  and 
fro  of  railway-cars  on  East  Broadway,  a  thoroughfare 
termmatmg  opposite  to  us  at  the  extremity  of  the  Park 
Already  I  have  spoken  of  a  railway-train  being  brought 
m  detachments  by  horses  into  the  heart  of  the  city;  but 
this  is  only  one  of  several  such  intinisions.     Permitted 
for  some  mysterious  reason,  by  the  civic  authorities' 
Imes  of  rail  are  laid  along  several  prominent  thorough- 
fares—an exceedingly  convenient  arrangement  as  regards 
transit  from  one  part  of  the  city  to  another,  but  not 
quite  pleasant,   I  should  tliink,  to  the  inhabitants  of 
these  streets  and  squares  through  which  the  cars  make 
their  perambulations.    The  cars  on  these  street-railways 
are  hung  low,  seated  like  an  omnibus,  and  will  stop  at 
any  point  to  take  up  or  set  down  passengers.     The 
ordmary  omnibuses  of  New  York  have  no  cad  behind. 
T^ie  door  is  held  close  by  a  cord  or  belt  from  the  hand 
ot  the  driver,  who  relaxes  it  to  allow  the  entry  or  exit 


ill 


192 


^Bww 

i 

f 

HI 


l-v 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ABt!  IN  AMERICA. 


fi,    il'iT"^'"''-     ^  ""^  '"""'^'l  '"tl-  «'-e  manner  in 
which  the  fce  IS  taken  in  these  vehicles.    The  passenger 
who  wishes  to  be  set  down,  hands  his  money  through  a 
hole  in  the  roof  to  the  driver,  who  forthwith  relaxes  the 
|-v.     and  the  door  flies  open.    As  there  appeared  to  be 
no  check  on  two  or  more  departing  when  only  one  had 
paid,  I  suppose  the  practice  of  shirking  fares  is  not  very 
common.     I   cannot  say  that  the  omnibus-system  of 
JMew  York  is  an  improvement  on  our  own.    The  drivers 
are  stdl  more  unconscionable  in  their  reception  of  extra 
passengers,  particularly  if  the  applicants  be  ladies      In 
such  cases,  the  gentlemen  either  stand,  or  take  the  ladies 
on  tMcir  knee.   I  happened  to  see  a  cram  of  this  kind  two 

theme  of  jocular  complaint  in  the  New  York  newspapers. 

not  mnrr\      """^^^  ™'"^"''''  conveyance  arises 
not  more  from  the  extreme  length  of  the  city,  than  the 
condition  of  the  principal  thoroughfai-cs.     /LIm 
sorry  to  hint  that  New  York  is,  or  at  least  ™.  duWig 
my  ™'\not  so  cleanly  as  it  might  be.     Statists  assur! 
us  that  It  possesses  1500  diit-carts,  and  in  1853  cost 
the  sum  of  250,000  doUars  for  cleaning.     Where  th^e 
carts  were,  and  how  aU  this  money  was  ex^Tdcd,  J 
cannot  imagine.    The  mire  was  ankle-dcep  I  BroJ. 
way,  and  the  more  nai-row  business  streets  were  barclv 
passable.     The  thing  was  really  droll.    All  along  the 
foot-pavements  there  stood,  night  and  day,  aa  if  fixtures 
boxes,  buckets,  lidlcss  flour-barrels,  b4cts,  deoycd 
tea-chests,  i-^ty  iron  pans,  and  earthenware  jars  fS  of 
coal-ashes    There  they  rested,  some  close  to  the  houLs 
some  leamng  over  into  the  gutter,  some  on  the  doo': 
steps,  some  knocked  over  and  spilt,  and  to  get  forward 
yon  reqmred  to  take  constant  care  not  to  faU  over  them 
Odd  as  this  spectacle  seemed  on  Satui-day  at  noon  i 

Zin.  T"'  ''r'" ""  '™''^y'  -•>-  -^^"^  "- 

«mging,  and  people  were  streaming  along  to  church. 


NEW  YORK  CONCLUDED.  293 

Passing  up  Broadway  on  this  occasion,  and  looking 
into  a  side-street,  the  scene  of  confused  debris  was  of 
a  kind  not  to  be  easily  forgotten— ashes,  vegetable 
reiiise,  old  hats  without  crowns,  worn-out  shoes,  and 
other  household  wreck,  lay  scattered  about  as  a  field  of 
agreeable  inquiry  for  a  number  of  long-legged  and 
industrious  pigs.  I  often  laugh  at  the  recollection  of 
these  queer  displays,  and  wonder  whether  the  boxes  and 
barrels  of  ashes  are  yet  removed  from  Broadway,  or 
whether  Pearl,  Nassau,  and  Fulton  Streets  have  seen 
the  face  of  a  scavenger  ! 

It  was  a  delicate  subject  to  touch  upon,  but  I  did 
venture  to  inquire  into  the  cause  of  these  phenomena. 
One  uniform  answer— maladministration  in  civic  affairs; 
jobbing  of  members  of  the  corporation  into  each  other's 
hands.     Considering  that   the   body  laboming  under 
these  imputations  was  chosen  by  popular  suffrage,  the 
ulame  thrown  upon  them,  I  thought,  was  as  much  due 
to  the  electors  as  the  elected.     Something,  in  explana- 
tion, was  said  of  the  overbearing  influence  of  the  lower 
and  more  venal   class  of  voters;   but  giving  all  due 
weight  to  an  argument  of  this  kind,  it  seemed  to  me 
that  we  had  here  only  a  vivid  demonstration  of  that 
species  of  desertion  of  public  duties,  which  is  seen  in 
London  and  other  great   marts  of  commerce,  where 
men,  being  too  busy  to  mind  anything  but  their  own 
affairs,  leave  the  civic  administration  to  the  idle,  the 
selfish,  and  incompetent.     Be  this  as  it  may,  things 
at  the  time  of  my  sojourn  had  come  to  a  deplorable 
pass.  .  You   could  not   take  up  a  newspaper  mthout 
seeing   accounts   of  unchecked   disorders,   or  reading 
sarcasms  on  official  delinquencies.     In  the  New  York 
Herald  for  November  28,  1853,  the  foUowing  passages 
occur  in  an  article  on  Rowdies— a  class  of  brawling 
reprobates  who  molest  the  public  thoroughfares  :— 
'The  insecurity  of  human  Hfe  in  New  York  has 

M 


194 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


become  proverbial;  and  it  is  a   grave   question  with 
many,  whether  it  is  not  practically  as  bad  to  live  under 
the  despotism  of  a  felonious  rabble  as  the  tyranny  of 
an  aristocrat.     Our  police,  with  a  few  exceptions,  are 
the  worst  in  the  world.     It  is  a  notorious  fact  that  they 
are  seldom  in  the  way  when  crimes  are  committed,  and 
when  they  see  them  by  accident,  they  are  very  likely 
to  skulk  away  and  avoid  all  danger  and  difficulty.     If 
a  bank  or  some  wealthy  individual  has  lost  a  large  sum 
of  money,  they  will  probably  get  hold  of  it,  because 
they  calculate  upon  a  handsome  reward.     But  when 
they  know  they  cannot  make  anything  extra — anything 
beyond  their  salary — there  is  not  one  in  a  hundred  of 
them  will  give  himself  the  least  concern  about  the  hves 
or  limbs  of  the  citizens  who  pay  them  for  protection. 
We  perceive  that  their  pay  has  increased  of  late.     We 
don't  find  that  it  has  contributed  very  much  to  increase 
their  vigilance.     The  whole  evil  lies  in  a  nut-shell — 
it  is  the  accursed  system  of  politics  that  prevails  at 
primary  elections,  and  thence  spreads  its  ramifications 
over  the  entire  social  fabric.     Strike  at  the  root,  and 
the  poison-tree  will  fall.' 

Perhaps  the  most  appalling  fcatm'e  in  the  economy 
of  New  York,  is  the  number  of  fires,  many  of  them 
involving  enormous  losses  of  property.  According  to 
an  official  report  quoted  in  a  newspaper,  the  amount 
of  property  destroyed  by  fire  in  New  York  in  1853,  was 
5,000,000  of  dollars.  In  not  a  few  instances,  it  has 
been  feared  that  these  conflagrations  are  the  work  of 
incendiaries  for  the  sake  of  plunder ;  though  I  incline 
to  the  behef  that  they  originate  in  a  more  simple  cause 
— ^the  headlong  speed  and  incautiousness  with  which 
afiaii's  are  ordinarily  conducted.*    When  fires  do  occur, 

*  Since  the  above  was  written,  a  fire  has  occurred  in  Broadway,  at  which 
a  number  of  firemen  lost  their  lives  by  injuries  sustained  on  the  occasion. 
The  coroner's  jnrj' in  deciding  on  the  cause  of  the  deaths,  added  the  foiiowing 


on  with 
ve  under 
•anny  of 
ons,  are 
hat  they 
ted,  and 
y  likely 
aty.     If 
rge  sum 
because 
it  when 
-nything 
idredof 
;hc  hves 
)tection. 
e.     We 
Increase 
-shell- 
vails  at 
ications 
)ot,  and 

conomy 
)f  them 
ding  to 
amount 
53,  was 

it  has 
rork  of 
incline 
e  cause 

which 
>  occur, 

,  at  wliicli 
occasion, 
foiiowing 


NEW  YOEK  CONCLUDED. 


105 


they  are    greatly   facilitated    by  the    slendemess    of 
inner  partitions  ar-l  wooden  stairs  in  the  houses;  and 
though  the  exertions  of  the  fire-brigades  are  generaUy 
beyond  all  praise,  they  are  not  able  to  prevent  exten- 
sive destruction   and  loss.      The  frequency   of  these 
conflagrations,  which  sometimes  involve  a  sacrifice  of 
Hfe  as  well  as  of  property,  cannot,  however,  be  said' to 
have  met  with  that  serious  attention  which  such  grave 
casualties  would  seem  to   demand.      The  stimulus  to 
push  forward  in  business  acting  like  a  species  of  in- 
toxication, appears  to  cause  an  indifference  to  misfor- 
tune.    In  short,  there  is  no  time  to  ponder  over  losses 
—no  time  even  to  avoid  being  cheated.     An  anecdote 
in  illustration  of  the  impetuous  way  in  which  matters 
are  managed,  was  told  to  me  as  a  remarkably  good 
thing  of  its  kind.     Two  men,  one  day,  with  a  long 
ladder  and  proper  implements,  gravely  proceeded  to 
take  down  the  metal  rain-conductor  from  a  house  of 
business,  and  carried  it  oflP  without  question  or  molest- 
ation.    A  few  days  afterwards  they  returned,  restored 
the  tube  to  its  place,  also  unchallenged,  and  having 
finished  operations,  presented  an  account  for  repairs, 
&c.,  which  was  instantly  paid,  the  truth  being  that  no 
mending  was  required,  and  the  whole  afiair  a  trick; 
but  the  pai-ties  plundered  had  no  time  for  inquiry,  and 
settled  the  demand  in  order  to  be  done  with  it.     How 
many  petty  exactions   are   daily  submitted  to  on  the 
same  principle  ! 

As  a  great  emporium  of  commerce,  growing  in  size 
and  importance.  New  York  offers  employment  in  a 
variety  of  pursuits  to  the  skUful,  the  steady,  and 
industrious,  and  on   such  terms   of  remuneratioi    as 

opinion,  confirmatory  of  the  worst  suspicions  as  to  incendiarism  :—<  We 
believe  that  the  fire  was  caused  by  incendiaries,  and  that  they  entered  on 
the  roof  for  the  purpose  of  j.lnnder,  having  obt.ained  access  thereto  from 
the  roof  of  an  adjoinin':^  in  ilding.' 


196 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


leaves  littlt  room  for  complaint.     It  would,  however, 
be  a  prodigious  mistake  to  suppose  that  amidst  this 
field    for    well-doing,   poverty   and   wretchedness    are 
unknown.     In  New  York,  there  is  a  place  called  the 
Five  Points,  a  kind   of  St  Giles's;  and  here,  and  in 
some  other  quarters  of  this  great  city,  you  see  and 
hear  of  a  sink  of  vice  and  misery  resembling  the  more 
squalid  and  dissolute  parts  of  Liverpool  or  Glasgow. 
For  this  the  stranger  is  not  prepared  by  the  accounts 
he  has  received  of  the  condition  of  affairs  in  America. 
Wages  of  manual  labour,  a  dollar  to  two  dollars  a  day. 
Servants,   labourers,    mechanics,   wanted.      The  rural 
districts   crying  for  hands  to   assist   in  clearing  and 
cultivating  the  ground.     Land  to  be  had  for  the  merest 
tnfle.      The  franchise,  too,  that  much-coveted  boon, 
offered  to  aU.     Alas !  man's  destiny,  on  whichever  side 
of  the  Atlantic,  is  not  altogether  to  live  by  voting  but 
by  working.      What   signify  high  wages,    land, 'and 
hberty,  if  people  shew  no  disposition  to  earn  and  make 
a  proper  use  of  these  advantages— if,  instead  of  labour- 
mg  at  some  usefiil  occupation,  they  habitually  squander 
away  existence,  and  do  aU  sorts  of  wicked  things  to 
keep  soul   and  body   together.      New  York   contains 
many  thousands   of  this  order  of  desperates,  or  call 
them  unfortunates,  if  you  wiU— men  ruined  by  follies 
and  crimes  in  the  old  country;  'outfitters'  sent  abroad 
by  friends  who  wish  never  more  to  see  or  hear  of  them; 
refugee  politicians,  who,    after  worrying  Europe,  have 
gone  to  disturb  America  (which,  fortunately,  they  are 
not  able  to  do);  beings  who  might  have  Hved  creditably 
m  the  Golden  Age,  but  who  possess  no  accurate  ideas 
of  the  responsibilities  of  this  drudging  nineteenth  cen- 
tury; immigrants  weakened  and  demoralised  by  their 
treatment  on  board  ship;  and  to  sum  up  with  an  item 
which  includes   nearly   everything  else— intemperates 
living  upon  their   ivits  and  the  bottle.     Collectively 


NEW  YORK  CONCLUDED.  197 

forming  a  mass  of  vice  and  wretchedness,  we  have  here 
in  fact,  a  '  dangerous  class/  the  cryptogamia  of  society^ 
flounshmg  m  dark  holes  and  comers,  just  as  it  is  seen 
to  do  m  any  large  city  of  the  Old  World.  Is  it  an 
or(Unation  of  nature  that  every  great  seat  of  population 
shall  contain  so  much  human  wreck  ? 

From  whatever  causa  it  may  originate,  New  York 
IS  beginning  to  experience  the  serious  pressm-e  of  a 
vicious    and    impoverished   class.      Prisons,   hospitals, 
asylums,  juvemle  reformatories,  alms-houses,  houses  of 
refuge,  and  an  expensive,  though  strangely  ineffective 
poHce,  are  the  apparatus   employed  to  keep  matters 
withm  bounds.     The  governors  of  a  cluster  of  penal 
and  beneficiary  institutions  report,  that  in  1853,  they 
expended  465,109   doUars  in  administering  relief  to 
80,357  perrsxis.     Passing  over  any  notice  of  the  many 
thousands,  including  crowds  of  recently  arrived  immi- 
grants, assisted  by  other  associations,  we  have  here  a 
number  equal   to  1  in   7  of  the  population,   coming 
under  review  as  criminals  or  paupers  in  the  course  of  a 
year— a  most  extraordinary  thing  to  be  said  of  any  place 
in  a  country  which  offers  such  boundless  opportunities 
for  gaining  a  respectable  subsistence.      Let  Europe, 
however,  bear  her  proper  share   of  the   shame.      Of 
all  who  pass  through  the  prisons,  or  stand  in  need  of 
charitable  assistance,  it  is  found  that  75  per  cent,  are 
foreigners;    and  the  cheerful  and  untiring  manner  in 
which  reHef  is  administered  to  so  many  worthless  and 
unfortunate  strangers,  surely  goes  far  to  extenuate  the 
reproach  of  '•  dollar-worship,'  which  has  been  cast  on  che 
American  character.     To  fortify  the  weak  and  lift  the 
fallen,  much  is  humanely  attempted  to  be  done  throu-h 
religious    agencies.      Bible    and   tract   societies,   and 
church-missions,   make   extraordinary   exertions;    and 
the   industrious   and    affluent,   moved    by  representa- 
tions torn  the  press,  are  uniting  in  efforts  for  social 


108 


THINGS  AS  TIIEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


1? 


improvement.  At  tho  time  of  my  visit,  the  subject  of 
a  better  class  of  dwellings  for  the  working-classes  was 
agitated ;  and  looking  at  the  overcrowded  houses,  and 
the  excessively  high  rents  paid,  it  seemed  to  me  that  a 
movement  of  tliis  kind  was  desirable.  Since  my  return 
liome,  an  unsuccessful  effort  has  been  made  to  pass  a  law 
for  shutting  up  the  taverns  (the  number  of  which  was 
5980  m  the  early  part  of  1853) ;  these  establishments 
being  bebeved  to  be  a  main  source  of  all  the  prevalent 
vice  and  poverty  in  the  city. 

If  New  York  has  the  misfortune  to  suffer  from  an 
accmnulatmg  mass  of  crime  and  poverty,  it  cannot  be 
said  that  she  takes  little  pains  to  avert  this  calamity 
through  the  eflScacy  of  religious  ministrations  or  ele- 
mentary education.     In  1853,  the  city  contained  254 
chm-ches,  conducted,  I   beheve,  with   a  zeal  equal  to 
anything  we  can  offer.     From  personal  examination  I 
am  ab.e  to  speak  with  greater  precision  on  the  subiect 
of  school  instruction.     The  educational  system  of  New 
i^ork    m  Its  higher  and  lower  departments,  is  on  a 
singularly  complete  scale.     Independently  of  a  number 
ot  private  academies,  there  are  as  many  as  230  schools 
of    which    twenty-two   are  for  coloured    children,   ii^ 
aU  of  which  education  is  entirely  ii-ee.     These  free- 
schools,  which  are  judiciously  scattered  through  every 
locality,  and  open  to  all,  are  supported  entirely  by  funds 
granted  from   the  revenue   of   the  municipality-the 

%P'Tnf  T  v""^^/  ^''^  ^^^^^^^  ^«^^^«^  ^r^bout 
^125  000  sterling  for  the  cuiTcnt  year.     Such  is  the 

considerate  liberality  of  the  city  corporation  in  main- 

tammg  the  schools  and  keeping  up  their  efficiency,  that 

one  would  almost  be  disposed  to  think  that  this  much 

abused  body  is,  after  all,  not  so  bad  as  it  is  called.     I 

fe.^  that  more  is  done  than  the  people  properly  appre- 

ciate.     The  registered  number  of  pupils  in  the  various 

free-schools  on  the  1st  of  January  1853,  was  127  -^3: 


i7i 


NEW  YORK  CONCLUDED. 


190 


but  it  appears  that  the  average  attendance  was  only 
44,596  * — a  fact  which  throws  a  ciuious  light  on  the 
method  of  training  youth.  With  a  profusion  of 
schools,  nothing  to  complain  of  in  the  routine  of  in- 
struction, and  nothing  to  pay,  it  is  certainly  strange 
to  find  that,  on  an  average,  many  more  than  one-half 
of  all  the  children  nominally  at  school,  were  absent; 
though  from  what  cause  is  not  explained.  According 
to  recent  accounts,  it  would  appear  that  the  poverty 
and  neglect  of  parents  rendered  it  as  necessary  in  New 
York  as  in  London  or  Edinburgh,  to  supplement  all  the 
ordinary  means  of  education  with  a  class  of  schools 
for  the  ragged  vagrants  of  the  streets— so  close  is  the 
analogy  becoming  between  the  condition  of  cities  in 
the  New  and  Old  World.f 

That  education  of  an  elementary  kind  should  be 
oflPered  Avithout  charge  to  all  classes  of  children,  at  the 
public  expense,  wUl  not  appear  so  surprising  as  that 


m 


free- 


*  Annual  Report  of  the  Board  of  Education  of  the  City  and  County  of 
New  York,  1853. 

t  '  With  the  princely  fortunes  accumulating  on  the  one  hand,  and  the 
stream  of  black  poverty  pouring  in  on  the  other,  contrasts  of  condition  are 

springing  up  as  hideous  as  those  of  the  Old  World There  should  be 

a  cure  which  should  go  to  the  som-ce  of  oiu:  social  evils  in  the  great  cities. 
.-  .  .  .  In  the  meantime,  we  call  attention  to  the  efforts  now  being  made  by 
various  parties  in  our  city  to  meet  these  inc:-easing  wants.  A  circular  appears 
in  another  column  from  an  association  of  ladies,  acting  in  connection  with  the 
Children's  Aid  Society,  which  shews  the  character  of  these  enterprises.  A 
Ragged  School,  or,  better  named,  an  Industrial  School,  is  opened,  where  the 
children  who  are  too  poor  for  the  public  schools  are  taught  a  common- 
school  education  and  a  means  of  livelihood,  A  soup-kitchen  is  connected 
with  the  establishment.  The  labour,  as  in  the  London  Ragged  Schools,  is 
mostly  performed  by  volunteers ;  though  here  entirely  by  ladies,  often  from 
our  highest  and  most  intelligent  circles.  We  understand  there  are  now  eight 
of  these  schools  in  the  city.  It  is  a  new  feature  in  New  York  high  life— 
this  active  labour  and  sympathy  for  the  poor.  Much  of  it  may  be  a  fashion, 
like  most  of  our  New  York  impulses ;  still  it  is  a  noble  fashion.  It  is  the 
first  step  towards  bridgmg  over  this  fearful  gulf  now  widening  between 
different  classes.*— A'ew  York  Tribune^  April  21,  1854. 


soo 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ABE  IN  AMERICA. 


may  be  obtained  by  any  youth   in   New  York  who 

wmcn  may  be  -'-scnbed  as  the  crowninff-point  nf 
tne  free-school  system.  This  institutiori  fermueh 
mterest  u.  visiting.     It  oceupies  a  large  buildfng,  mort 

fourl^  Lor  "■""  i"""'"  ''"   -Peri^teiidenee  of 
lourteen  professors  and  a  number   of  tuto™    T  f       i 

modated  in  d  fferent  apartments,  reeeiving  an  education 
of  the  most  liberal  kind  at  the  public  cost.    Mathema 
to.  Classics  and  Modem  Languages,  Oratoiy,  D  1^^ 

pupils  '^rf'  ^'T  "'"■"^  '^  ^'^°  °P»  to  the 
S  -fl'e '''""ual  charge  on  the  sehool-fund  for  this 
academy  is  about  20,00'  doUars.  The  public  uplrt 
of  such  au  establishment  is  eousidered,  I  believe'^to 
be  of  doubtful  policy.     The  most  obvious  ob  e  Ton  if 

ser  with  professional  aims  in  view.  It  must,  however 
be  borne  m  mind,  that  the  ehUd  of  the  po^rertTas 
eligible  as  the  child  of  the  most  wealthy  cS  til 
on^y  test  for  admission  being  the  abdity  to  pa  a'sm 
able  and  impartially  conducted  examinltionn  fellr^ 
smaU  pleasure  m  learning  that  social  distinction  was 
to  a%  unknown  lu  the  academy;   and  that  at  lel 

r^'of life  '"^^  '"^^  *^  ^""^  "^  P-o-  -  ^  « 
The  progress  of  refined  tastes  in  New  York  has  been 
sigmfleantly  marked  by  the  estabhshment  ^Ta  C ^a" 
Pa  ace    emulative  of  simUar  constnictions  in  eJopc 
and  which  I  considered  myself  fortunate  in  amwTn 

in  Reservoir  Square,  towards  the  northern   extremity 


I  I 


NEW  YORK  CONCLUDED. 


901 


)f  study 
3rk  who 
a  boon, 
cademy, 
Joint  of 
t  much 
g,  more 
college 
3nce   of 
-  found 
accom- 
ucation 
thema- 
[•awing, 
)ng  the 
to  the 
or  this 
upport 
5ve,  to 
ion  is, 
num- 
tvever, 
is  as 
;  the 
suit- 
5lt  no 
I  was 
least 
mblc 

been 
ystal 
'ope, 
S  in 
ition 
nity 


of  the  city,  the  edifice  was  not  exteriorly  seen  to 
advantage,  and  was  rather  cramped  in  its  proportions. 
Although  considerably  less  in  size  than  the  Irish  Exhi- 
bition, and  a  pigmy  in  dimensions  as  compared  with  the 
Palace  at  Sydenham,  it  was,  nevertheless,  a  fine  thing 
of  its  kind,  and  mu&c  have  furnished  a  fair  idea  of  the 
nature  and  appearance  of  the  Great  Exhibition  in  Hyde 
Park.  In  shape  it  wa:^  a  cross,  365  feet  long  each  way, 
with  a  lofty  dome  in  the  centre,  100  feet  in  diameter. 
Some  lesser  erections  filled  up  the  angles  of  the 
cross,  and  with  a  separate  building  of  two  stories  for 
machinerj'^  in  the  lower,  and  pictures  in  the  upper 
gallery,  the  whole  afforded  space  for  a  highly  respect- 
able exhibition.  The  interior  arrangements  and  style 
of  decoration  bore  a  close  resemblance  to  what  was 
observed  in  the  structure  in  Hyde  Park — courts  for 
particular  classes  of  productions,  rows  of  statuary, 
galleries  with  flags  and  drapery,  and  stands  for  the 
lighter  articles  of  manufacture. 

To  this  Exhibition,  Great  Britain,  France,  Austria, 
the  Netherlands,  and  other  European  countries,  had 
contributed  objects  of  useful  and  ornamental  art;  but 
the  bulk  of  the  articles  shewn  were  American,  and 
testified  to  the  extraordinary  progress  in  industrial 
pursuits.  It  was  observable,  tliat  this  progress  em- 
braced little  in  pictorial  art,  or  the  higher  order  of 
design.  Of  the  collection  of  654  paintings,  the  greater 
number  were  from  Germany,  Holland,  France,  and 
England ;  the  whole  contributed  by  the  United  States 
being  about  forty.  One  picture  I  had  seen  previously — 
the  First  of  May,  by  Wintcrhalter,  which  represents  the 
Duke  of  Wellington  presenting  a  casket  to  his  godson, 
the  young  Prince  Arthur;  it  was  contributed  to  the 
Exhibition  by  Queen  Victoria,  and  attracted  many 
admirers.  In  the  fine  arts,  America  cannot  yet  be 
reasonably  expected  to  rival  Europe ;  though  uiidei  the 


aos 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AHEIilCA. 


invention  oTtooh  !,ll      ^'"'"T"'  ''°  "^'"^  »'  «  *« 
di^tly  ^eM      in^^7'  *'"'  "'^^^Uaueous  objects 

mth  deputing  two  or  thle  1  °'  """'"  '"^'"^"^ 

the  opening  of  thrVLv      ^"""'^'"'•''■■b  to  attend 

of  meehals  had  fome  trt,    '  *'"T\"''=  "<"°1>-- 
Altogether  thTv.W^^-        ^     "'''  ""''  "'^  instructed. 

on  the  mind   tint  *!.♦!'    ,        conviction  was  left 
r«oureer^Hh    ulff        "  "'*•"■  *'"'*  '''i"  »  these 

and  in  S    ".l"?  '""'  *"  '"a'^Wnery  at  rest 

engines  "tr.^'^tTresU:  ^if^^r^^'^''"'- 

^  ^-d'°f ;:^^rf p^rn^Ct^*''^' ^^^^^^^^ 

hidden  wealth   m   ^T,  ^    f        ^"^  *^^    amount  of 

richest  kid  was  ^so^T^^^^^  ^^^    «^   the 

the  silt  J  ,         ^^^^^ited  from  Nova  Scotia-  but 

th^t  r  rel  lli^S'et  ^o^^tH^r ^d  "''^ 
gifted  by  a  late  English  sovetelt'o  r'""'' 
a>-e  pretty  neai-ly  useless  eitherT  f  "^  ^*™""'^' 
public.  ^'^  *"  *e  possessor  or  the 

c^'Xtld^Llanf;  d*^  ^^""«-  -' 
I  «i.cu,d  fancy  that  Xec  s  h  ti::^atr  rfbi  "' 

conducted  bv  a  W™r  1,^™^-     ''"^inated  and 


NEW  YORK  CONCLUDED. 


soo 


close,  TTas  fotind  not  to  have  pa^d  its  expenses — not  bo 
much  from  any  imperfect  appreciation  of  its  merits,  as 
from  delays  in  opening.  The  design,  I  believe,  is  to 
re-open  and  permanently  keep  np  the  Exhibition  with 
some  new  and  attractive  features,  under  the  presidency 
of  the  immortal  Barnum ! 

In  New  York,  the  means  of  social  improvement, 
through  the  agency  of  public  libraries,  lectures,  and 
reading-rooms,  are  exceedingly  conspicuous.  One  of  the 
most  munificent  of  these  institutions,  is  the  recently 
opened  Astor  Library,  founded  by  an  endowment  of  the 
late  John  Jacob  Astor,  who  bequeathed  a  fund  of 
400,000  dollars  to  erect  a  handsome  building  and  store 
it  with  books  for  the  free  use  of  the  public.  I  went 
to  see  this  library,  and  found  that  it  consisted  of  a 
splendid  collection  of  100,000  volumes,  a  large  propor- 
tion of  which  were  works  in  the  best  European  editions, 
properly  classified,  with  every  suitable  accommodation 
for  literary  study.  Tlie  New  York  Mercantile  Library, 
and  the  Apprentices'  Library,  are  institutions  con- 
ducted with  great  spirit  and  of  much  value  to  the 
community.  A  very  large  and  handsome  building 
was  in  process  of  erection  at  a  cost  of  300,000  dollars, 
by  a  benevolent  citizen,  Mr  Peter  Cooper,  for  the 
purpose  of  a  free  reading-room  and  lectm'es.  The 
limited  space  at  my  disposal  does  not  enable  me 
to  particularise  other  institutions  of  this  class,  or  to 
notice  the  learned  societies  in  which  the  higher  order 
of  intellects  co-operate. 

The  prevalence  of  education  throughout  the  United 
States  leads,  as  may  be  supposed,  to  a  taste  for  reading, 
which  finds  the  widest  indulgence  in  easUy  acquired 
newspapers  and  books.  Newspapers  are  seen  every- 
where in  the  hands  of  the  labouring  as  well  as  the 
wealthy  classes.  Every  small  town  issues  one  or  more 
of  those  papers,  and  in  large  cities  they  are  produced 


« 


SM 


THINOS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


'! 


:iir 


n  myriads.  In  the  streets,  at  the  doors  of  hotels,  and 
m  r,u  way-cars  boy,  are  seen  seUing  them  in  con. 
Biderable   numbers.      Nobody  ever   seems   to    grudge 

hI7i!  TT  I"  "'"  P'"''''"™  "^  Public-hou^s  and 
hoteU  m  England,  a  newspaper  is  handed  from  one 
per^n   to  another,   beeause   the  purehase   of  a  c^py 

1  i„  .     fv  ,  "■y  '"°™"'K  »*  *'"=  Astor  House, 
I   should  thmk   some  hundreds  of  newspapers  were 
bought   by   the  gnests.      At  breakfast,   almost  eTe^ 
man  had  a  paper.     And  I  believe  I  may  safely  ave^ 
that  no  workmg-man  of  any  respeetability  goes  withou 
his  paper  daily,  or  at  least  several  times  a  week.   News 
papers,   in   a  word,  are  not    a  easual  luxiuy    but  a 
neeessaiy  of  life  in  the  States;  and  the  generaf lowness 
ofpr.ee  of  the  article  admits  of  its  widest  difflision 

Many  of  these  papers  aie  only  a  cent-equal  to  a 
half.penny-eaeh;  but  two  or  tliree  cents  are  a  more 
eommon  pnee,  and  some  arc  charged  five  or  si^ 
een  s.  Compared  with  the  expensively  got  up  and 
weU-,vr,tten  mormng  papei^  of  London,  the  American 

to  be  eaUed  cheap.     Much  of  their  space  is  occupied 
™th  advertisements,   and  in    some  cases    the  whole 
readable  matter  amomits  to  a  few  paragraphs  of  nc^  s 
and  remarks  connected  with  party  poUtics.    Indulgence 
m  personahties  IS  usually,  and  with  truth,  roRard^d  a! 
the  worst  of  their  editorial  featm'cs.     In  th,!  rcpecT 
however,  they  cannot  be  said  to  differ  materially  Lm' 
many  of  the  newspapers  of  the  British  prorinees;  and 
reeoIlecti„gw.th  shame  the  recent  hbeUous  malignities 
of  certain  Enghsh  newspapers  directed  against  a  hi^h 
p™age,  we  are  scarcely  entitk-d  to  speak   of  the 
editorial  imperfections  of  the  Americaois  as  altogether 
singular.     Such   as  they  are,   and  low  in  price,  the 
newspapers  of  the  United  States  Ma  an  Lportant 


It 


I  I 


NEW  YORK  CONCLUDED. 


M5 


purpose  in  the  public  economy;  and  with  all  their 
faults,  the  free  discussion  of  every  variety  of  topic  in 
thtir  pages  is,  as  some  will  think,  better  than  no  dis- 
cussion at  all.  In  nothing,  perhaps,  is  there  such  a 
contra-'t  between  Great  Britain  and  America,  as  in  the 
facilities  for  disseminating  newspapers.  In  the  former 
country,  newspapers  can  hardly  be  said  to  reach  the 
hands  of  rural  labourers.  We  could,  indeed,  point  out 
several  counties  in  Scotland  which  cannot  support  so 
much  as  a  single  weekly  paper  j  but  depend  for  intel- 
ligence on  a  few  prints  posted  from  a  distance — such 
prints  affording  no  local  information,  and  throwing  no 
light  whatever  on  the  peculiar,  and  it  may  be  unfortu- 
nate, political  and  social  circumstances  in  which  the 
people  of  these  counties  are  placed.  On  the  oihp.r 
hand,  such  is  the  saliei^oy  of  thought,  such  the  freedom 
of  action,  in  the  United  States,  thai  a  to^vn  has  hardly 
time  to  get  into  shape  before  its  newspaper  is  started ; 
and  as  one  always  leads  to  two,  we  have  soon  a  pair  of 
journals  firing  away  at  each  other,  and  keeping  the 
neiglibourhood  in  amusement,  if  not  in  a  reasonable 
amount  of  intelligence.  While  it  may,  therefore,  suil; 
the  policy  of  England  to  centralise  and  deal  out  opinion 
according  to  certain  maxims  of  expediency,  and  also  by 
every  ingenious  device  to  limit  the  number  of  news- 
papers, the  people  of  the  United  States,  taking  the 
thing  into  their  o^vn  hands,  have  organised  a  press  as 
universal  and  accessible  as  the  most  ordinary  article 
of  daily  use.  On  the  establishment  of  a  newspaper 
among  them,  there  are  no  fiscal  restrictions  whatever. 
There  is  no  stamp,  and,  consequently,  no  vexatious 
government  regulations  requiring  to  be  attended  to — 
no  particular  form  of  imprint  necessary.  Exempted 
likewise  from  paper -duty,  and  never  having  been 
burdened  with  a  tax  on  advertisements,  they  are  in 


Th 


, 


'   4»* 


I 


111- 


206 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


newspapei^  by  post  in  the  United  States  is  on  an 
equally  simple  footing.  A  newspaper  despatched  to 
any  place  within  the  state  in  which  it  is  published  is 
charged  only  half  a  cent  (a  farthing)  for  postage,  and 
when  sent  to  any  other  part  of  the  United  States,  a 
cent;  but  m  this  latter  case,  if  a  quantity  be  paid  for 
m  advance,  the  cost  is  only  the  half-cent.  It  is  proper 
to  state,  that  these  charges  do  not  include  deUvery  at 
the  houses  of  the  parties  addressed— that  being  the 
subject  of  a  separate  small  fee;  and  it  is  here,  both  as 
regards  letters  and  newspapers,  that  the  superiority  of 
the  British  post-office  system  is  conspicuous. 

Decentralising  in  principle,  the  newspaper  system  of 
the  States  stiU  relies  for  the  more  important  items  of 
home   and  foreign  inteUigence   on  the  prints  of  the 
large  cities,  which  spare  neither  pains  nor  expense,  by 
cL  ctric-telegraph  or  otherwise,  in  procui-ing  the  earliest 
and  most  exciting  news.     In  this  respect,  New  York 
may  be  said  to   take  the  leid,  by  means  of  several 
newspapers   conducted  with   a  remarkable   degree  of 
energy— among  which    may  be  noticed  the  Herald, 
Tribune,  Post,  and  Commercial  Advertiser.     In  con- 
nection with  this  prominent  feature  of  New  York,  it 
seems  proper  to  state  that  this  city  has  latterly  acquired 
importance,   if  not   for  literary  production,   at   least 
for  the  dispersion  of  books;    encroaching,  so  far,  on 
the  older  literary  marts  of  Boston  and  PhHadelphia. 
PeriodicaHy  in  New  York  there  occur  great  sales  by 
auction  to  the  trade— not  of  mere  parcels  of  books,  but 
whole   editions  prepared  for  the  purpose,  and  trans- 
mitted from  publishing  houses  in  different  parts  of 
the  Union.     These  sales,  like  the  book-fairs  of  Leipsic, 
attract  purchasers  from   great  distances,  and  literary 
wares   are  disposed    of  on  a  scale    of   extraordinary 
magnitude.     New  York  likewise  possesses  a  number 
of  publislicrs  of  books,  original  and  rci^rinted,  though, 


r-i-g 


NEW  YOllK  CONCLUDED. 


207 


SO  far  as  I  could  judge,  the  works,  generally,  are  not 
of  the  same  high-standing  as  those  wliich  are  issued 
from  the  long-established  and  classic  press  of  Boston. 
As  a  place  of  publication,  New  York  is  best  kno^yn  for 
its  periodicals;  of  which,  with  newspapers  included, 
there  are  as  many  as  a  himdred  and  fifty  addi'cssed  to 
every  shade  of  opinion. 

By  the  politeness  of  Mr  Dana,  I  was  conducted  over 
the  printing  establishment  of  the  Tribune,  and  had 
pointed  out  to  me  a  machine  resembling  one  I  saw 
several  years  ago  in  the  Times  printing-office,  and 
which  was  turning  out  broadsheets  with  inconceivable 
rapidity.  At  the  large  book-manufacturing  concern 
of  the  Messrs  Harpers,  which  I  visited  a  few  days 
previous  to  the  fire,  the  machinery  employed  was 
more  novel.  Thirty-four  flat-pressure  steam-presses, 
all  afterwards  destroyed,  were  producing  the  finest 
kind  of  work,  such  as  is  still  effected  only  by  hand- 
labour  in  England,  into  which  country  the  inventor, 
Adams  of  Boston,  would  doubtless  be  doing  a  service 
to  introduce  them.  The  practice  of  stereotyping  by 
an  electric  process,  so  as  to  multiply  plates  at  a  small 
cost,  and  as  yet  scarcely  knowTi  in  England,  was  also 
in  use  at  the  same  office.  The  enormous  demand  for 
every  moderate-priced  product  of  the  press,  has,  of 
course,  necessitated  the  resort  to  these  simplifications 
of  labour.  The  circulation  of  Harpers'  Magazine  is 
stated  to  be  upwards  of  100,000  copies,  which  no  hand- 
labour  could  produce,  nor  cyhnder-printing  properly 
effect,  considering  the  fineness  of  the  wood-engravings 
usually  interspersed  tlirough  the  letter-press.  Unfor- 
tunately, \nth  every  disposition  to  admire  the  \'igour 
displayed  by  the  Harpers  in  conducting  their  popular 
miscellany,  one  can  entertain  Uttle  respect  for  a  work 
which  systematically  adopts  articles,  often  without 
acknowledgment,  from  English  periodicals.     Occupying 


I        i 


\       I 


208 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


a  much  higher  literary  status,  is  the  monthly  magazine, 
started  a  year  ago  by  Mr  G.  P.  Putnam,  whose  efforts 
in  cultivating  native  American  talen  and  in  sustaining 
a  work  of  a  purely  original  character,  will,  we  hope, 
be  crowned  with  the  success  which  they  deserve. 

In  the  course  of  my  rambles  through  the  printing- 
offices  of  New  ^'ork,  I  alighted  upon  an  establishment 
in  which  the  Household  Words  of  Mr  Dickens  was 
furnishing  employment  to  one  of  the  presses.  As 
yet,  the  work  I  am  myself  connected  with  had  been 
exempted  from  sharing  in  the  glory  of  an  unautho- 
rised transatlantic  impression,  and  I  had  reason  for 
gratulation  accordingly.  But  who  can  tell  what  a 
few  days  may  bring  forth?  Since  my  return  to 
England,  Chambers's  Journal  has  yielded  to  its  destiny, 
and,  side  by  side  with  Mr  Dickens's  popular  print, 
affords  what  is  thought  a  fair  ground  for  enterprise 
to  a  publisher  in  New  York  —  necessarily  to  the 
damage  of  the  interests  concerned  in  importing  and 
supplying  the  original  edition  of  the  work.  How  far 
the  circulation  of  10,000  copies,  said  to  be  achieved 
by  this  reprint,  is  likely  to  repay  the  party  interested, 
I  am  unable  to  say.  The  absence  of  a  law  of  inter- 
national copyright  renders  any  such  imitative  re- 
printing legal;  and  though  feeling  that,  abstractedly, 
the  present  arrangements  are  by  no  means  consistent 
with  a  sense  of  justice,  I  have  dechned,  for  obvious 
reasons,  to  enter  into  any  argument  on  the  subject. 

It  has  sometimes  been  remarked  of  George  III., 
that  instead  of  fighting  his  American  subjects,  he 
would  have  shewn  somewhat  more  prudence  by 
removing  family,  court,  and  all,  to  the  States;  and 
so  leaving  Great  Britain,  as  the  lesser  country,  to 
shift  for  itself,  as  a  colony.  Some  such  plan  of 
packing  up  and  removal  might  almost  be  recom- 
mended to  persons  designing  to  follow  out  a  course 


_i  -jy 


NEW  YORK  CONCLUDED. 


200 


connected  professionally  -with  any  department  of 
literature.  Already,  certain  English  publishing-houses 
are  turning  attention  to  the  great  and  ever-extend- 
ing field  of  enterprise  in  the  United  States,  where 
books,  as  in  the  case  of  newspapers,  are  not  a  luxury 
of  the  rich,  but  a  necessary  part  of  the  household 
furniture  of  those  depending  for  subsistence  on  daily 
labour.  With  a  view  to  partaking  in  the  advan- 
tages to  be  derived  from  the  universal  demand  for 
literary  products  in  the  States,  some  kind  friends 
strongly  counselled  the  transference  of  myself  bodily 
to  New  York;  and  though  coming  rather  late  in  the 
day,  the  idea  was  not  without  its  allm'cmcnts.  In  one 
respect,  at  least,  the  American  possesses  an  advantage 
over  the  EngHsh  publisher:  he  is  not  subjected  to 
heavy  taxation  in  carrying  on  his  operations.  When 
I  mentioned  to  the  publishers  of  New  York,  that  the 
various  works  issuing  from  the  establishment  Tvith 
which  I  was  connected,  and  addressed  mainly  to  classes 
to  whom  it  was  of  importance  to  the  state  itself  that 
literature  should  be  made  as  accessible  as  possible, 
were  loaded  with  a  tax  of  10,000  dollars  per  annum  in 
the  form  of  paper-duty,  no  small  wonder  was  expressed. 
'  Why,'  said  they,  ^  continue  to  spend  your  existence  in 
a  country  in  which  the  earnings  of  industry  are  laid 
under  such  heavy  contributions?'  The  inquiry  might 
more  pertinently  have  been  put  to  a  younger  man,  or 
to  one  who  had  fewer  inducements  to  '  stick  to  the  old 
ship;'  but  it  is  exactly  the  kind  of  question  which, 
considered  in  its  diflFerent  aspects,  is  now  drawing 
away  so  many  eager  minds  across  the  Atlantic. 


N 


;i 

! 
1 

1 

1  i 

1 

U 

CHAPTER     XIII. 

BOSTON — LOWELL. 

After  paying  a  few  visits  to  Brooklyn  on  the  one  side, 
and  the  New  Jersey  shore  on  the  other,  I  left  New 
York,  and  proceeded  northwards  to  spend  a  short  time 
m  New  England;  my  journey  taking  me  direct  to 
Boston  m  one  day— distance  by  raUway  236  miles,  for 
which  the  fare  was  five  doUars.  By  this  line  of  route, 
very  large  numbers  pass  to  and  from  New  York  daily. 
The  cars,  starting  in  detachments,  with  teams  of 
horses,  from  Canal  Street,  we  united  in  a  long  tram 
outside  the  town,  and  then  cl  tivn  in  good  style  by  a 
locomotive  at  the  rate  of  abc  it  twenty-five  miles  an 
hour.  The  line,  which  makes  a  considerable  bend  in 
its  course,  proceeds  by  way  of  New  Haven,  Hartford, 
Springfield,  and  Worcester;  and  so  traversing  a  popu- 
lous country,  goes  through  the  state  of  Connecticut 
into  Massachusetts. 

After  passing  New  Haven,  a  haudsomely  built  town, 
the  seat  of  Yale  College,  the  country  improves  iil 
appearance;  and  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Hartford, 
within  the  vaUey  of  the  Connecticut  river,  the  land 
is  green,  rich,  and  beautiful.  When  we  reach  Spring- 
field, the  arable  plains  of  Connecticut  are  exchanged 
for  the  rugged  and  pastoral  hiUs  of  Massachusetts;  and 
we  need  not  to  be  told  that  we  have  arrived  in  a  region 
which  depends  not  on  natural  products,  but  on  an 
— ^ 'Ty,  lor  Its  wealth 


Pl-f    r\f  wi  «-.->■.,■?„  „i.,_: _•—    K 
iu   \yi    iiiaiiuj.c-i;i,uiiXli''   Ijtiui 


BOSTON LOWELL. 


211 


and  importance.  Placed  on  a  group  of  conical  mounts, 
partly  environed  by  inlets  of  the  sea,  Boston  is  seen 
on  our  approach  to  be  an  odd  mixture  of  towns  and 
lakes,  which  the  stranger  requires  several  days  to  com- 
prehend— and  which  I  cannot  say  I  quite  understand 
even  yet.  A  fine  bay,  as  formerly  noticed,  admits 
shipping  from  the  sea  up  to  the  various  wharfs  that 
fringe  the  lower  parts  of  the  city,  and  renders  Boston 
one  of  the  best  seats  of  exterior  commerce  on  the 
whole  coast  of  America. 

It  will  be  recollected,  that  it  was  not  in  this  inviting 
harbour  that  the  'Pilgrim  Fathers'  landed  in  New 
England,  December  22,  1620,  but  nt  Plymouth,  about 
thirty-six  miles  distant  along  the  coast  to  the  south. 
Boston  was  settled  ten  years  later  by  a  fresh  band 
of  English  refugees,  fleeing  from  religious  persecution, 
and  was  at  first  called  Tremont;  but  this  descriptive 
name  was  afterwards  changed  to  Boston,  in  compli- 
ment to  the  Rev.  John  Cotton,  who  had  emigrated  from 
Boston  in  Lincolnshire;  and  so  Boston  it  remains, 
along  with  all  its  traditions^  historic  and  biographical. 
I  hinted  on  a  previous  occasion,  that  a  glance  at  Boston 
would  disenchant  any  one  from  illusory  ideas  respecting 
the  Americans.  The  city,  occupying  the  slopes  of  a 
rounded  low  hill,  is  thoroughly  English  in  aspect — 
the  brick-houses  smarter,  perhaps,  and  excelling  in 
their  brilliant  green  jalousies,  plate-glass  windows,  and 
general  air  of  neatness.  A  number  of  the  public  and 
other  buildings  a  e  of  granite,  and  the  broad  side-pave- 
ments are  of  this  durable  material.  Boston  is  English 
even  in  its  irregularity.  Instead  of  being  laid  out  on 
the  rectangular  American  patter?-.,  and  garnished  with 
rows  of  trees,  the  streets  wind  and  diverge  in  different 
directions,  some  broad  and  some  narrow,  some  steep 
and  some  level,  according  to  fancy  or  the  nature  of  the 
grouud — the  greater  part  clinging   parasiticaiiy  round 


'.)■=   V. 


II 


I  ( 


212 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


the  chief  of  the  Tremonts,  which  is  crowned  with  the 
conspicuous  dome  of  the  State-house. 

I  was  not  prep  red  by  any  previous  account  for  the 
throng  of  carriages,  drays,  and  foot-passengers  in  the 
leading  thoroughfares  of  Boston.  Washington  Street, 
which  stretches  longitudinally  through  the  city,  cannot 
be  compared  to  Broadway  in  New  York,  or  the  Strand 
in  London,  yet  as  a  fashionable  business  thoroughfare 
it  has  few  equals.  Tremont  Street,  which  is  parallel 
with  it  a  little  higher  up  the  hill,  is  another  princi- 
pal avenue  through  the  city,  communicating  at  one 
end  with  the  celebrated  Boston  Common.  This  is 
much  the  .:  ^est  thing  of  the  kind  in  America.  It 
is  an  enclosed  piece  of  ground,  fifty  acres  in  extent, 
ornamented  with  trees  and  a  fountain,  irregular  in 
surface,  and  enclosed  with  a  railing;  it  is  iJways 
open  for  foot-passengers,  and  is  devoted  exclusively 
to  the  public  use.  On  three  sides,  it  is  bounded 
by  a  terrace-like  street,  with  a  range  of  well-built 
houses,  the  residence  of  the  elite  of  Boston.  This 
spacious  grassy  common  has  a  general  inclination  to 
the  south,  and  at  its  upper  part,  the  line  of  street 
embraces  the  State-house,  from  the  summit  of  Avhich 
a  very  fine  panoramic  view  of  the  city  and  its  environs 
is  obtained. 

In  Boston  there  are  some  pubhc  buildings  in  the 
best  styles  of  architecture,  and  it  may  be  said  that  to 
whatever  side  we  turn,  evidences  of  intelligence  and 
taste  are  presented.  After  a  visit  to  New  York,  the 
appearance  of  Boston  is  particularly  pleasing.  Instead 
of  dirt,  noise,  and  aU  sorts  of  irregularities,  we  have 
cleanliness,  comparative  tranquillity,  and,  as  it  seems, 
a  system  of  municipal  government  in  which  things 
are  not  left  altogether  to  take  charge  of  themselves. 
In  these  and  some  other  respects,  Boston  will  pro- 
bably please  all  who  like  to  see  a  weU-mauaged  and 


4l 


BOSTON — LOWELL. 


213 


respectable  city — its  police  not  a  sham,  and  its  streets 
really  s^ept  in  requital  for  the  money  expended  on  them. 
So  far  are  police  arrangements  carried,  that  smoking,  as 
I  was  informed,  is  not  allowed  in  the  public  thorough- 
fares. A  regard  for  neatness  and  decorum  was  a 
predominant  feature  in  the  minds  of  the  Puritan 
settlers  of  Massachusetts,  and  still  remains  impressed 
on  the  character  of  their  descendants.  We  can,  indeed, 
see  that  in  manners  and  various  social  arrangements, 
the  New  England  states — Maine,  New  Hampshire, 
Vermont,  Massachusetts,  Rhode  Island,  and  Connecticut 
— ^possess  a  distinctive  character.  The  cradle  of  civil 
liberty,  they  are  also  the  source  of  those  great  schemes 
of  free  elementary  education  extending  over  the 
Union;  while  in  most  things  which  tend  to  general 
improvement,  their  people  are  generally  seen  taking 
the  lead.  Some  writer  has  remarked,  that  the  com- 
parative barrenness  of  the  soil  of  Massachusetts  has 
proved  an  incalculable  blessing  to  America.  Unable 
from  natural  sources  to  support  a  large  population,  the 
country  has  thrown  off  swarms  of  emigrants,  who  have 
carried  with  thdm  the  shrewd  keenness,  perseverance, 
and  love  of  independence  of  the  New  England  race, 
which,  in  point  of  fact,  is  a  living  type  of  the  hardy 
and  thoughtful  English  who  battled  against  the  Stuarts 
in  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century.  Spreading 
into  other  states,  these  New  Englanders  are  seen  to  win 
their  way  by  an  aptitude  for  business  and  a  wonderful 
power  of  organisation.  As  merchants,  lawyers,  and 
magistrates,  they  are  acknowledged  to  be  an  important 
element  —  one  might  almost  say  the  cement  —  of 
American  society.  Retaining  the  temperament  and 
modes  of  expression  of  their  English  ancestry,  we  find 
that  they  are  more  wiry  in  constitution,  and  speak 
in  d  higher  and  more  nasal  tone  than  is  observable 
elsewhere. 


214 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


Moulded    from    a    Puritan    ancestry,   it  might  be 
expected  that  the  Bostonians,  with   many  changes  in 
sentiment,  would  still  possess   a   slender  appreciation 
of  the  fine  arts;   but  the  elegance  of  many  of  their 
buildings,  and  their  love   of  music,  demonstrated  by 
the  recent  opening  of  a  large  and  handsome  hall  for 
musical  entertainments,  would  infer  that  they  retam 
little  of  the  ancient  sourness  of  manners.     They  are, 
however,  like  another  people  whom  we  could  name — 
not  signalised  by  any  love  for  theatrical  representations. 
The  drama,  I  should  tliink,  is  in  a  low  condition  in 
Boston.     I  went  one  evening  to  a  theatre,  which  was 
tolerated  under  the  name  of  a  '  Museum.'     To  invest  it 
with  this  illusory  character,  its  spacious  vestibule  was 
environed  with  cases  of  dried  snakes,   stufied  birds, 
and  other  curiosities,  which  nobody,  so  far  as  I  could 
see,,  took  the  trouble  to  look  at,  the  centre  of  attraction 
being   a  theatre   beyond,   fitted   up  with  a  hanging- 
gallery,  and  pews  as  like  a  church  as  possible.      The 
house  was  crowded  with   a  respectable   and  attentive 
audience,  but  the  acting  was  of  an  inferior  kind;   and 
what  in  my  opinion  was  more  objectionable,  the  piece 
performed  was   a  melodrama,   in  which  religion  was 
irreverently  blended  with  bufibonery.     I  am  at  a  loss 
to  say  whether  this,  like   the   adoption  of  the  term 
^  Museum,'  was  a  device  to  soothe  public  prejudice,  but 
it  communicated  that  impression. 

One  of  the  days  of  my  sojourn  in  Boston  was  the 
24th  of  November,  which,  by  proclamation  of  the 
governor  of  Massachusetts,  was  kept  as  Thanksgiving- 
day— according  to  an  old  custom — in  the  New  England 
states.  The  institution  of  this  religious  festival  is 
traced  to  an  early  period  in  colonial  history,  and  has 
gradually  assumed  a  national  character.  Each  state 
may  select  the  day  most  convenient  to  itself:  that 
adopted,  however,  by  Massachusetts,  seems  to  set  the 


BOSTON — LOWELL. 


I    i 

S15 


fashion,  and  accordingly  there  is  an  almost  universal 
holiday.     On  this  occasion,  all  business  was  suspended 
in  Boston,  the  stores  were  shut,  and  the  churches  of 
every  denomination  were  open.     In  the  afterpart  of  the 
day,  things  relaxed  a  little.     There  was  a  thronging 
in  and  out  of  the  city  on  excursions  and  visits,   and 
among  other  signs  of  jollity,  the  '  Museum '  opened  its 
attractions.     The   day,  in  short,  came  pretty  closely 
up  to  the  old  English  Christmas — one  half  devoted  to 
church,  ard  the  other  half  to  dining  and  amusement, 
like  a  genuine  mediaeval  festival.     I  was  told  that  the 
meeting  together  of  members  of  a  family  on  Thanks- 
giving-day was  maintained  as  a  sacred  practice  in  New 
England,  and  that  many  travelled  hundreds  of  miles  to 
be  present.     It  is  not  less  a  universal  custom  to  have 
a  turkey  to  dinner  on  the  occasion  of  these  family 
reunions;  those  too  poor  to  purchase  this  delicacy,  are 
usually  presented  with  it  by  friends  or  employers ;  and, 
as  may  be  supposed,  the  number  of  turkeys  required 
throughout  the  New  England  states  is  immense.     The 
opening  of  the  churches  for  public  worship  permitted 
me    to   attend    King's    Chapel,   a  respectable-looking 
stone-built  church,  nearly  opposite  the  Tremont  Hotel, 
where  I  had   taken    up  my  quarters.     This  church, 
fitted  with  high  family-pews  of  dark  wood,  like  those 
of  the  parish  churches  of  England,  retained  very  nearly 
the  appearance  it  possessed  previous  to  the  revolution, 
when  it  was  the  place   of    worship   of   the  English 
governor  of  the  province.     The  service  was  liturgical, 
but  differed  in  some  respects  from  that  of  the  Church 
of  England.     Adjacent  is  a  burying-ground,  separated 
by  a  railing  from  the  street,   and  said  to  contain  on 
one  of  the  tombstones    the    oldest    carved    date    in 
America — 1 643. 

In  visiting  Boston,  so  many  are  the  memorials  of 
the  great  revolutionary  struggle,  that  one  feels  as  if 


216 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


m 


surrounded  by  illustrations  of  history.     The  Old  South 
Meeting  House,  where,  on  the  6th  of  March  1770,  was 
held  the  town  meeting  to  remonstrate  with  the  governor 
agamst  bringing  in  troops  to  overawe  the  inhabitants- 
Faneuil  HaU,  a  huge  brick-building  in  the  market- 
place,  celebrated  for    assemblages    of   the   '  Sons  of 
Liberty;'   Griffin's   Wharf,   where,    on    a    moonhght 
night,  December  16,  1773,  under  the  popular  impulse 
given  by  Josiah  Quincy,  a  large  crowd  went  on  board 
the  Dartmouth,  and  other  English  ships,  and  within 
two  hours  poured  the  contents  of  342  chests  of  tea  into 
the  harbour;  the  level  slip  of  peninsula  called  Boston 
Neck,  which  unites  the  city  with  the  mainland,  and 
where  were  placed  the  British  fortified  lines  in  August 
1774;   thQ   scenery  on  the  western  side   of  Charles 
River,  including  Bunker'^,   and   Breed's  Hills,   where 
took  place  the  memorable  action  of  June  17,   I775 . 
Dorchester  Heights,  on  the  mainland,  to  the  south  &c' 
Among  the   chief  of  the  objects  of  curiosity,  is  the 
Bunker    HiU   Monument,    occupying    a    conspicuous 
situation  m  the  .leighbourhood.     To  reach  the  spot 
where  this  monument  has  been  erected,  I  crossed  the 
Charles  River  by  a  iong  and  low  wooden  bridge,  sup- 
ported   on    piles,  and   passing  through    Charlestown, 
arrived  at  the   base  of  a  grassy  mound,  little  more 
than  a  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.     Such 
is  Breed's  Hill,  which  has  been  selected  as  the  most 
favourable    site    for    the    Bunker    HiU    Monument. 
Originally  in    an    open    down,    the    locality  is  now 
crowded  with  houses,  which  seem  to  be  closing  round 
the  hill,  very  much  to  the  injury  of  its  appearance 
The  top  of  the  hiU  has  been  leveUed  and  laid  out  with 
walks,  radiating  from   an  iron  rail  which   surrounds 
the  monument.     Access  to  the  summit  is  gained  by  a 
staircase.     The  monument  is  an  obelisk   of  whitish 
o      ---^  in  ii^i^avj   TTiKu  a  square  oase  01  oO 


,_^Ji 


BOSTON LOWELL. 


217 


feet,  whence  it  tapers  to  a  point.  It  is  a  chastely 
correct  work  of  art — a  thing  dignified  and  beautiful 
in  its  very  simplicity.  Many  years  were  spent  in 
bringing  it  to  a  complete  state,  on  account  of  the 
diflficulty  experienced  ia  raising  the  necessary  funds 
for  its  execution.  It  was  inaugurated  by  a  public 
ceremonial  in  1843,  on  which  occasion  Daniel  Webster 
delivered  one  of  his  mo&   admired  orations. 

Accustomed  as  one  is  to  find  everything  new  in 
America,  Boston,  in  its  historical  and  social  features, 
presents  so  much  of  an  old  and  settled  character,  that 
it  may  be  said  to  stand  out  alone  in  its  resemblance  to 
a  European  city.  Although  constructed  principally  of 
wood,  no  place  coidd  be  imagined  more  English  than 
Cambridge,  a  suburban  city,  situated  to  the  south  of 
Charlestown,  and  reached  in  the  same  way  by  an 
extremely  long  wooden  bridge.  This  is  the  seat  of 
Harvard  University,  an  institution  dating  as  far  back 
as  1638,  and  now,  with  its  various  schools,  the  most 
important  and  best  attended  college  in  the  United 
States.  A  glance  at  Old  Cambridge,  as  it  is  named, 
shews  us  a  variety  of  smart  buildings  scattered  about 
among  trees,  with  broad  winding  roads  giving  access 
to  pretty  villas,  each  with  its  flower-plot  in  front,  and 
delightful  bits  of  lawn  used  for  pasturage  or  recreation. 
The  grass,  to  be  sure,  is  not  so  compact  or  so  green  as 
it  is  in  England,  the  dryness  of  the  climate  forbidding 
that  anywhere  in  America;  but  the  imitation  is  here 
as  near  the  original  as  possible.  Driving  along  one 
of  the  broad  thoroughfares,  our  vehicle  stops  at  the 
gateway  of  one  of  the  most  venerable  wooden  villas. 
It  is  a  neat  house  of  two  stories,  with  pilasters  in  the 
bald  Grecian  style  of  the  Georgian  era,  attics  in  the 
roof,  and  side-verandas,  resting  on  wooden  pillars. 
Across  the  garden-plot  in  the  front,  two  short  flights 
of  steps  lead  up  terrace-banks  towards  the  door.     The 


m 


tl8 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


View  in  front  is  open,  being  across  a  grassy  plain  in  the 
direction  of  Boston.     This  house  became  the  abode  of 
General  Washington  on  the  2d  of  July  1775,  .fhen  he 
came  from  New  York  to  take  command  of  the  American 
army;  and  here  he  resided  part  of  his  time  during  the 
contest  in  tlic  neighbourhood.     At  present,  the  villa  is 
owned  and  inhabited  by  Mr  H.  W.  Longfellow,  pro- 
fessor of  modem  languages  in  the  adjacent  university, 
and  one  of  the  most  accomplished  living  poets  in  the 
United  States.     Introduced  by  a  literary  friend,  I  had 
the  honour  of  making  the  acquaintance  of  a  person 
whose  writings  are  esteemed  in  England  as  well  as 
America,  and  of  seeing  the  interior  of  the  historicaUy 
interesting  mansion  he  inhabits.     The  walls  of  the 
room— a  kind  of  library-boudou-— into  which  I  was 
shewn,  were  panelled  according  to  an  old  fashion,  and 
the  furniture  was  of  that  tastefully  antique  kind  which 
seemed  appropriate  to  the  past  and  present  character 
of  the  dweUing.     The  whole  place  speaks  of  other  days. 
Adjoining  the  house  are  various  tall  elms,  probably  a 
century  old— a  highly  respectable  antiquity  for  America 
—and  the  patch  of  garden  appears  to  be  preserved  in 
the  form  it  possessed  when  Washington  paced  across 
it  on  that  celebrated  summer  morning  when  he  w(  it 
forth  to  put  himself  at  the  head  of  his  troops.     The 
spot  where  this  event  occurred  was  in  the  neighbouring 
common ;  here,  under  the  shadow  of  a  large  tree,  called 
Washington's  Elm,  standing  at  a  central  point  between 
two  cross-roads,  he  is  said  to  have  drawn  his  sword, 
and  formally  entered  on  command. 

It  says  m-^ch  for  the  staid  character  of  the 
Bostonians,  that  families  connected  not  only  with 
the  revolutionary  era,  but  with  the  early  settlement 
of  the  province,  still  maintain  a  respectable  position 
in  the  town,  and  form  what  may  be  called  an  aristo- 
cracy, distinguished  alike  by  wealth  and  honourable 


BOSTON LOWE  LL. 


210 


public  service.  So  much  has  been  written  of  the 
peculiar  attractions  of  Boston  society,  that  I  am 
fortunately  left  nothing  to  say,  further  than  to  take 
the  opi)ortunity  of  oflPering  thanks  for  the  many  polite 
attentions  I  received  from  aU  with  whom  I  had  any 
intercourse.  Although  only  a  few  days  in  the  city  and 
its  neighbourhood,  I  had  an  opportunity  of  making 
some  satisfactory  inquiries  respecting  the  prevalent 
system  of  elementary  education,  and  of  visiting  some 
of  the  excellent  literary  institutions  with  which  the 
intelligen«  inhabitants  of  Boston  have  had  tL^  good 
taste  to  provide  themselves.  The  Atheneeum,  con- 
sisting of  a  library  and  reading-room,  was  the  finest 
tiling  of  the  kind  I  had  seen  in  America ;  for,  besides 
a  collection  of  50,000  volumes,  there  was  a  gallery  of 
paintings  and  sculpture  of  a  high  class.  Among  insti- 
tutions of  a  more  popular  character,  may  be  noticed 
the  Mercantile  Library  Association,  at  whose  rooms  I 
was  shewn  a  collection  of  about  13,000  volumes ;  also, 
the  LoweU  Institute,  established  by  a  bequest  of  250,000 
dollars,  for  the  purpose  of  providing  free  lectures  on 
science,  art,  and  natural  and  revealed  religion.  Some 
movements  were  on  foot  to  widen  the  sphere  of  intel- 
lectual improvement  by  means  of  a  free  library  and 
otherwise :  and  from  the  great  number  of  publishing 
establishments,  it  was  evident  that  the  demand  for 
literature  was  considerable.  'Everybody  reads  and 
everybody  buys  books,'  said  a  publisher  to  me  one  day ; 
and  he  added :  '  every  mechanic,  worth  anything  at  all, 
in  Massachusetts,  must  have  a  smaU  library  which  he 
calls  his  own ;  besides,  the  taste  for  high-class  books  is 
perceptibly  improving.  A  few  years  ago,  we  sold  great 
quantities  of  trashy  Annuals ;  now,  our  opulent  classes 
prefer  works  of  a  superior  quality.'  At  the  same  time, 
I  learned  that  a  number  of  copies  of  instructive  popular 
works  which  I  had  been  concerned  in  publishing,  had 


I J 


■  1 1  f 


Li    ■  ? 


220 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


:H     J 


been  imported  for  the  use  of  school-libraries;  and  »3 
there  are  about  18,000  such  libraries  in  the  United 
States,  the  amount  of  books  of  various  kinds  required 
for  this  purpose  alone  may  be  si^pposed  to  be  very 
considerable. 

Like   most  visitors   of  Massachusetts,   I  made   an 
exv  arsion  to  Lowell — a  manufacturing  city  of  37,000 
inhabitants,  at  the  distance  of  twenty-five  miles  north- 
west of  Boston.     A  railway-train  occupied  an  hour  in 
the  journey,  which  was  by  way  of  Lexington— a  small 
to^n  at  which  the  first  shots  were  fired  (April  19,  1775) 
at  the  beginning  of  the  revolutionary  struggle.     The 
country  traversed  was  level,  enclosed,    and   here   and 
there  dotted   over  with  pretty  villages   and   detached 
dwellings,  in  the  usual  New  England  style.      Lowell 
may  be  described  as  a  tillage  of  larger  growth,  com- 
posed of  houses  of  brick  or  wood,  disposed  in  straight 
lines  forming  spacious  and  airv  streets.      Several  rail- 
ways centre  at  the  spot,  but  there  is  little  noise  or 
bustle  in  the  thoroughfares.      All  the  children  are  at 
school,  and  most  of  the  adult  inhabitants  are  in  the 
several    manufactories.      The     day    is    sunshiny    and 
pleasant,  and  a  few  infants  are  playing  about  the  doors 
of  neat  dwellings  in  the  short  streets  which  lead  to  the 
mills.     These  mills  are  of  the  ordinary  cotton-factory 
shape— great   brick-buildings,    with   rows   of  windows 
with    small     panes,     and     all     are    enclosed    within 
courtyards,  or  othei-wise  secluded  from  intrusion. 

The  whole  of  the  Lowell  mills  being  moved  by  water- 
power,  we  agreeably  miss  the  smoky  atmosphere  which 
surrounds  the  Lancashire  factories.  The  power  is 
derived  from  the  Merrimack,  a  river  of  considerable 
size,  which  is  led  by  an  artificial  canal  from  a  point 
above  a  natural  fall  in  its  com-se,  to  the  various  works. 
In  1853,  there  were  twelve  incorporated  manufacturing 
concerns  in  Lowell  and  its  neighboitrhood;  principally 


BOSTON — LOWELL. 


221 


;  and  f"? 

;  United 

required 

be  very 

nade  an 
'  37,000 
!S  north- 
hour  in 
-a  small 
9,  1775) 
e.  The 
ere  and 
letached 

LoweU 
h,  corn- 
straight 
ral  raU- 
loise  or 
I  are  at 

in  the 
ay  and 
LC  doors 
d  to  the 
-factory 
windows 

within 

• 

'■  water- 
3  which 
)wer  is 
derable 
a  point 
works, 
cturing 
icipally 


engaged  in  cotton  spinning  and  weaving,  carpet-manu- 
facturing, calico-printing,  and  machine-making.  The 
chief  and  oldest  of  the  various  corporations  is  the 
Merrimack  Manufacturing  Company,  established  in 
1822,  and  possessing  a  capital  of  2,500,000  dollars. 
Its  operations  are  carried  on  in  six  large  buildings;  it 
has  at  work  71,072  spindles,  2114  power-looms,  employs 
1650  females  and  650  males,  and  makes  377,000  yards 
of  cloth  per  week.  The  goods  it  produces  are  prints 
and  sheetings.  Besides  going  over  the  extensive  works 
of  this  establishment,  I  visited  the  mills  of  the  Lowell 
Manufacturing  Company,  where  I  found  800  females 
and  500  males  employed  principally  in  the  spinning  of 
wool  and  weaving  of  carpets — the  designs  of  these 
articles  being  good,  with  bright  and  decided  colours. 

Cotton-spinning  and  weaving  factories  are  pretty 
much  the  same  aU  the  world  over,  and  I  do  not  feel 
entitled  to  say  that  there  was  any  remarkable  exception 
in  the  establishments  which  here  fell  under  my  notice. 
In  each  there  prevailed  the  greatest  neatness  and  regu- 
larity. The  females  employed  were  tidy  in  dress,  yet 
not  very  different  in  this  respect  from  what  I  had  seen 
in  factories  at  home ;  for  the  nature  of  the  work  does 
not  admit  of  finery,  and  it  is  only  at  leisure  hours  and 
on  Sundays  that  silks  and  parasols  make  their  appear- 
ance. In  the  windows  of  one  of  the  large  factories,  I 
saw  that  flowers  in  pots  were  a  favourite  subject  of 
culture,  which  I  accepted  as  a  token  of  the  good  taste 
of  these  young  lady-artisans.  Boarding-houses,  gene- 
rally the  property,  and  under  the  supervision  of  the 
mill-owners,  are  situated  at  a  short  distance  from  the 
factories.  These  houses  are  of  brick,  three  stories  in 
height,  and  have  exteriorly  the  aspect  of  what  we 
should  call  dwellings  of  the  middle  classes.  Of  the 
orderliness  of  these  establishments,  their  neatly  fur- 
nished rooms,  pianos,  and  accommodations  of  various 


?.«*? 


p     III 


1,^  I 


I B      m 


"I      , ' 


222 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


kinds,  it  is  unnecessary  for  me  to  go  into  particulars; 
neither  need  I  call  to  remembrance  the  literary  exer- 
citations  of  the  female  inmates,  demonstrated  by  the 
Lowell  Offering,  and  Mind  among  the  Spindles.  Among 
American  girls,  the  general  objection  to  domestic 
service  is  not  attended  with  any  dislike  to  working 
in  factories.  Many  young  women,  the  daughters  of 
farmers,  do  not  therefore  disdain  to  employ  themselves 
three  or  four  years  at  Lowell,  in  order  to  realise  a  sum 
which  will  form  a  suitable  dowry  at  mamage,  to  which, 
of  course,  all  look  forward  as  a  natural  termination  of 
their  career  at  the  mills;  and  as  no  taint  of  immorality 
is  attachable  to  their  conduct  while  under  the  roof  of 
any  of  the  respectable  boarding-houses,  they  may  be 
said  to  be  objects  of  attraction  to  young  farmers  looking 
out  for  wives.  I  was  informed  that,  latterly,  a  number 
have  come  from  Lower  Canada,  and  return  with  quite 
a  fortune  to  the  parental  home. 

Undoubtedly,  the  strict  regulations  enforced  by  the 
proprietors  of  the  mills,  along  with  the  care  taken  to 
exclude  any  female  of  doubtful  character,  largely  con- 
tribute to  the  good  working  of  his  remarkable  system. 
But  as  human  natui-e  is  the  same  everywhere,  I  am 
disposed  to  seek  for  another  cause  for  the  orderly 
behaviour  and  economic  habits  of  the  Lowell  operatives 
-—and  this  I  believe  to  be  the  hope  of  a  permanent 
improvement  of  their  condition.  The  sentiment  of  hope 
is  observed  to  enjoy  a  vigorous  existence  in  Americ?.. 
Prepared  by  education,  the  way  is  open  to  all;  and  so 
easily  is  an  independent  position  gained,  that  none  need 
to  sink  down  in  despair,  or  become  tipplers  in  mere 
desperation  and  vacuity  of  thought.  Even  in  working 
at  cotton-mills,  hope  has  its  aspirations  in  a  way  not 
permitted  by  the  customs  of  England.  The  factories 
of  Lowell  have  been  spoken  of  as  belonging  to  incor- 
porations.   These  are  joint-stock  companies,  established 


BOSTON — LOWELL. 


223 


biculars ; 
ry  exer- 
by  the 
Among 
lomestic 
working 
hters  of 
jmselves 
e  a  sum 
)  which, 
ation  of 
norality 
roof  of 
may  be 
looking 
number 
h  quite 

by  the 
iken  to 
;ly  con- 
system. 
,  I  am 
orderly 
eratives 
manent 
of  hope 
meric?.. 
and  so 
le  need 
1  mere 
working 
^ay  not 
ictories 

incor- 
blished 


by  a  charter  from  the  state  legislature,  and  have  the 
validity  and  privileges  accorded  only  to  such  companies 
in  England  as  are  established  by  special  act  of  parlia- 
ment. To  procure  such  an  act,  supposing  it  would  be 
granted  to  an  ordinary  manufacturing  concern,  would 
cost  at  least  £500,  or  more  probably  j6800;  but  in 
Massachusetts,  or  any  other  state  of  the  Union,  the 
entire  expense  of  a  charter  would  be  thought  high  at 
100  dollars,  or  £20;  and  I  heard  of  cases  in  which 
charters  did  not  cost  more  than  £5.  At  whatever 
expense  these  state-charters  are  procured,  they  enable 
small  capitalists  to  unite  to  carry  out  with  safety  a 
particular  commercial  object.  The  shareholders  are 
responsible  only  to  the  extent  of  their  shares,  unless 
they  become  managers,  when  they  are  bound  to  the 
limit  of  their  fortune.  For  anything  I  know,  there 
may  be  inherent  weakness  in  the  principle  of  those 
organisations,  but  they  seem  to  go  on  satisfactorily  at 
Lowell,  and  other  places  in  the  New  England  states; 
and  if  they  do  not  command  the  respect  of  large 
capitalists,  they  at  aU  events  do  not  give  rise  to  feelings 
of  hostility  between  employer  and  employed.  The 
stock  of  the  Merrimack  Manufacturing  Company,  which 
has  been  stated  at  2,500,000  dollars,  consists  of  shares 
of  1000  dollars  each;  and  I  have  the  authority  of 
Mr  Isaac  Hinckley,  the  resident  manager,  for  saying, 
that  the  persons  employed  by  the  company  own  more 
than  eighty  shares  of  the  capital  stock,  or  80,000 
doUars ;  and  as  the  market- value  of  a  share  is  at  present 
1320  dollars,  it  is  tolerably  evident  that  the  concern  is 
paying  well,  and  in  good  credit.  While  it  may  be 
acknowledged  that  the  management  of  factories  estab- 
lished on  this  plan  is  not  likely  to  be  so  prompt  and 
vigorous  as  those  owned  by  a  single  individual,  it  is 
surely  a  matter  of  some  importance  to  have  arranged 
a  scheme,  by  which   operatives   have   the  power  of 


Vrr 


I  ri 


!^!ii!U 


ir^ 


l*H  '  :  |i 


rt 


!      :  III  ill    ! 


224 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


becoming  proprietors,  to  a  certain  extent,  of  the  miJls 
in  which  they  habitually  labour.  Whether  with  the 
hope  of  obtaining  this  distinction,  or  of  investing  accumu- 
lated capital  in  other  kinds  of  property,  the  operatives 
are  depositors  to  a  very  great  amount  in  the  savings- 
banks  in  Lowell.  Mr  Hinckley  mentioned,  'that  the 
Lowell  Institution  for  Savings,  had  at  last  report  about 
1,060,000  dollars  of  deposits,  mostly  belonging  to 
persons  employed  in  mills;  and  he  thought  the  City 
Institution  had  about  half  that  amount.'  In  a  pub- 
lished account,  it  is  stated  that  the  number  of  depositors 
last  year  was  '  6224,  nearly  aU  of  whom  were  persons 
employed  in  the  mills.*  Facts  such  as  these  say  more 
for  the  good  habits  of  the  New  England  operatives  than 
the  highest  eulogy. 

All  the  manufacturing  establishments  in  LoweU 
concur  in  issuing  a  printed  table  of  statistics  annually. 
In  the  paper  of  this  kind,  dated  January  1853,  the 
average  wage  of  females,  clear  of  board,  per  week,  is 
two  dollars;  and  of  males,  clear  of  board,  four  dollars, 
eighty  cents.  If  we  add  that  one  dollar,  twenty-^five 
cents  is  the  price  of  board  for  females,  and  two  dollars 
for  males,  £  fair  idea  will  be  obtained  of  the  wages  of 
labour  in  the  Lowell  factories.  In  English  money,  the 
average  weekly  earnings  of  a  female  may  be  set  down 
at  13s.  6d.,  and  of  a  mak  at  from  19s.  6d.  to  21s.; 
and,  keeping  in  view  that  the  practice  is  to  secure  on 
an  average  twelve  working-hours  each  day,  English 
factory-operatives  may  draw  for  themselves  a  com- 
parison between  their  own  position  and  that  of  the 
workers  in  the  miUs  of  LoweU. 

It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  remark,  that  the  pros- 
perity of  Lowell,  and  the  agreeable  circumstances  of 
the  operatives,  rest  on  c.  somewhat  precarious  founda- 
tion, owing  their  existence  as  they  do  to  a  tariff  which 
i^xciuties  tiie  more  cncapiy  prou.uceci  goous  oi  jitngiund. 


^i3L_ 


BOSTON LOWELL. 


225 


America  lias,  indeed,  strong  prejudices  in  favour  of 
paying  high  prices  within  herself  for  clothing,  as 
contrasted  with  being  supplied  more  cheaply  from  a 
distance;  but,  after  what  we  have  seen  of  the  instability 
of  a  protective  system  in  our  own  country,  no  one  can 
tell  what  revolutions  of  sentiment  a  few  years  may 
bring  about  amongst  so  quick  and  intelligent  a  people 
as  those  of  the  United  States.  Were  it  not  for  this 
consideration,  I  should  be  inclined  to  express  my 
surprise  that  the  mill-operatives  of  Lancashire  and 
Lanarkshire  have  never  struck  upon  the  idea  of  remov- 
ing to  one  or  other  of  the  many  fields  of  aemand  for 
their  labour  across  the  Atlantic. 

It   appears  from  statistical  returns,  that  there  are 
now    upwards    of   a    thousand    cotton    manufacturing 
establishments    in    the   United   States,   fully  one-half 
being  in  New  England;  and  of  these,  Massachusetts 
has  213,  the  value  of  the  goods  produced  in  which,  in 
1845,  was  above  13  millions  of  dollars.     Considerable 
as  was  this  item,  it  formed  only  a  small  amount  in  a 
general    estimate   of   manufactures  in   Massachusetts, 
which    reached    a    total   of   115    millions   of   dollars. 
Leaving  to  Connecticut  much  of  the  trade  of  fabricating 
clocks  and  other  light  and  ingenious  articles,  Massa- 
chusetts o^vns  many  concerns  in  which  the  great  staples 
of  industry  in  textile  fabrics  and  metals  are  produced. 
Among  the  trades  which  it  may  be  said  to  have  made 
peculiarly  its    own,    at  least   as   regards    the   eastern 
states,  is  that  of  boot  and  shoe  making.     I  may  state 
on  credible  authority,  that  in  1845,  the  value  of  leather 
tanned  was  3,800,000  dollars,  and  that  boots  and  shoes 
were    produced   to  the  value  of   14,799,000  dollars. 
Probably  the  value  is  now  as  much  as  20  millions  of 
dollars;  and  that  anything  like  such  a  sum  (^64,000,000 
sterling)  should  be  realised  every  year  for  these  articles, 
in  a  state  with  no  more  than  a  tiiird  of  the  population 


o 


i 


326 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


f 


)' 


of  Scotland,  is  not  a  little  surprising;  and  the  fact  is 
only  comprehended  by  referring  to  the  vastly  extended 
territory  over  which  the  manufacturer  finds  a  market. 
No  inconsiderable  quantity  of  the  coarser  kind  of  shoes, 
called  'brogans/  is  disposed  of  for  the  use  of  slaves  in 
the  south,  where  manufacturing  arrangements  are  on  a 
limited  and  imperfect  scale ;  and  as  these  shoes  are 
only  one  of  many  varieties  of  articles  made  in  the  free, 
for  sale  in  the  slave  states,  it  is  tolerably  evident  that, 
so  far  as  material  interests  are  concerned,  the  northern 
manufacturers,  and  all  depending  on  them,  have  little 
reason  to  wish  for  a  speedy  termination  to  slavery. 
Lynn,  a  seaport  town  in  Massachusetts,  I  understand, 
takes  the  lead  in  the  boot  and  shoe  trade ;  the  quantity 
made  in  that  place  alone  being  4,500,000  pairs  per 
annum,  mostly  of  a  fine  kiud,  for  ladies  and  children. 
Recently,  a  machine  has  been  introduced  for  fixing  the 
soles  of  shoes  by  means  of  pegs ;  the  inventor  being  a 
person  in  Salem,  in  Massachusetts.  I  was  shewn  r  ;me 
boots  which  had  been  prepared  in  this  maimer,  and 
was  told  that  a  pair  could  be  pegged  in  two  minutes. 
One  can  imagine  from  all  he  hears,  that  the  shoe 
manufacture  must  exercise  a  commanding  importance 
in  the  state;  and  if  any  doubt  be  left  as  to  the  fact, 
it  will  be  removed  by  knowing  that  a  few  years  ago 
there  were  as  many  as  fifteen  members  of  the  '  gentle 
crafts  in  the  legislature  of  Massachusetts. 


CHAPTER    XIV. 


EHODE     ISLAND. 

Cramped  into  a  small  space  between  Massachusetts 
and  Connecticut,  we  may  see  on  the  map  a  state  called 
Rhode  Island — the  island  from  which  it  derives  its 
name  being  a  mere  speck  within  a  bay  on  the  sea-coast, 
and  the  bulk  of  the  state  being  in  reality  on  the  main- 
land. How  this  little  state  came  into  political  exist- 
ence, is  one  of  the  most  interesting  circumstances  in 
American  history. 

I  have  had  occasion  to  refer  to  an  unfortunate 
feature  in  the  character  of  the  Pilgrim  Fathers — their 
extreme  intolerance.  Though  fleeing  from  religious 
persecution  in  England,  and  suffering  for  conscience' 
sake,  their  polity  admitted  of  no  departure  whatever 
from  their  own  tenets  and  practices.  Themselves  in 
exile  as  Nonconformists,  they  sternly  repressed  by 
fine,  imprisonment,  and  even  the  gallows,  everything 
like  nonconformity  to  their  o\\ti  favourite  form  of  belief. 
The  early  history  of  New  England  abounds  in  the 
most  revolting  instances  of  this  species  of  oppression ; 
and  no  case  appeals  so  warmly  to  modem  sympathy 
as  that  of  Roger  Williams.  This  was  a  young  English 
divine  of  good  education,  who  arrived  in  America  in 
1631,  and  became  a  much-esteemed  Puritan  preacher. 
Being,  however,  of  a  kindly  disposition  and  enlarged 
understanding,  he  could  not  reconcile  the  legalised 
principle  of  intolerance  with  the  injunctions  of  the 


i*  b'    i    I 
lit    I    I 

:•'-  I  I! 
1 


I  I 


i 


■II' 

i     ,i!,l: 


228 


rngT'"' 


I  ill 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


Gospel;  and  in  spite  of  remonstrances  against  a 
continuance  in  ^  error/  he  at  length  boldly  proclaimed 
the  doctrine  of  freedom  of  conscience,  which  till  that 
time  was  practically  unknown.  The  proposition  that 
no  man  should  be  troubled  on  account  of  his  religious 
opinions,  was  intolerable  to  the  magistracy  of  the 
settlement;  and  Williams,  abandoning  family  and 
home,  was  constrained  to  flee  from  place  to  place  for 
personal  safety.  The  account  of  his  wanderings  and 
privations  among  the  Indian  tribes  who  hung  about  the 
borders  of  Massachusetts,  forms  the  subject  of  a  deeply 
affecting  narrative,  which  has  lately  been  given  to  the 
world  by  one  every  way  competent  for  the  task. 
Passing  over  the  history  of  his  sufferings  in  the  wilder- 
ness, we  find  Williams  still  undaunted,  and  resolute 
in  carrying  out  his  opinions  to  a  practical  issue. 
Borrowing  a  canoe,  he  sets  out  with  five  adherents 
on  what  may  be  called  a  voyage  of  discovery;  his 
object  being  to  find  a  spot  where  every  man  might 
live  and  enjoy  his  religious  opinions  in  peace.  In  this 
adventurous  excursion,  Providence  seemed  to  guide  the 
frail  vessel  to  the  banks  of  a  small  arm  of  the  sea, 
projected  inland  from  Narraganset  Bay.  Here,  accord- 
ing to  tradition,  being  hailed  from  a  rock  by  a  friendly 
Indian,  Williams  and  his  party  landed,  and  were 
hospitably  received  by  the  chiefs  of  the  Narragansets, 
from  whom  he  received  a  grant  of  territoiy,  to  which, 
in  pious  gratitude,  he  gave  the  name  of  Providence. 
This  event  occurred  in  June  1636,  and  was  the  founda- 
tion of  a  new  English  settlement — a  place  of  shelter, 
as  Williams  described  it,  '  for  persons  distressed  for 
conscience.'  Being  situated  beyond  the  jurisdiction 
of  New  Plymouth  and  Massachusetts,  the  magistrates 
of  these  colonies  had  no  proper  title  to  interfere  with 
the  settlers  in  Providence,  and  they  satisfied  themselves 
with  prognostications  of  disaster  and  ruin  to  a  state 


'     I 


RHODE  ISLAND. 


fiS9 


which  was  so  deficient  in  the  elements  of  authority. 
Contrary  to  these  anticipations,  the  young  settlement 
throve  amazingly,  by  the  flocking  in  of  persons  desirous 
of  liberty  to  profess  their  peculiar  religious  opinions. 
To  all  who  came,  Williams,  like  a  benevolent  patriarch 
of  old,  gave  freely  of  the  lands  he  had  acquired,  and  he 
is  said  to  have  left  nothing  for  himself  or  family.  As 
population  accumulated,  he  felt  the  inconvenience  of 
acting  without  legal  sanction ;  and  he  accordingly  pro- 
ceeded to  England  in  1644,  and  procured  a  charter 
from  Charles  I.,  constituting  an  English  colony  under 
the  title  of  the  Plantations  of  Providence  and  Rhode 
Island.  On  the  occasion  of  a  second  visit  to  Eng- 
land in  1663,  Williams  obtained  a  more  comprehen- 
sive charter  from  Charles  II.;  and  curiously  enough, 
tlirough  every  phase  of  history,  tlie  provisions  of 
tliis  latter  document  have  continued,  with  certain 
modifications,  to  be  the  constitution  of  the  state  of 
Rhode  Island. 

The  opportunity  of  visiting  a  spot  hallowed  by  one 
of  the  noblest  struggles  for  civil  and  religious  liberty  of 
which  history  offers  an  example,  was  not,  I  thought,  to 
be  neglected.  I  had  only  two  days  to  spare  previous 
to  going  southward,  and  these  I  resolved  on  devoting 
to  a  pilgrimage  to  the  small  commonwealth  founded  by 
the  immortal  Roger  Williams.  So  numerous  are  the 
railways  diverging  from  Boston,  that  no  difficulty  is 
experienced  in  proceeding  in  the  required  direction. 
Oi  a  bracing  and  clear  Saturday  morning,  I  took  the 
line  to  Providence,  situated  at  the  distance  of  about 
fprty-two  miles  in  a  southerly  direction.  The  route 
pursued  lay  through  a  country  of  hill  and  valley,  dotted 
over  with  rough  shrubby  woods,  enclosed  pasture-fields, 
and  villages  of  white  houses,  where  manufactures  of 
some  kind  appear  to  be  carried  on.  These  seats  of 
industry  aie  seen  chiefly  nestling  in  hollows,  on  the 


I 


MiHiK 


380 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


banka  of  small  streams,  where  they  enjoy  a  command 
of  water,  either  for  moving  machinery  or  to  aid  in  the 
process  of  manufacture.  Everything  denotes  that  we 
are  passing  through  a  district  of  the  usual  orderly  New 
England  character.  At  the  several  stations  along  the 
line,  a  respectable  class  of  persons  drop  into  and  depart 
from  the  cars,  and  it  seemed  to  me  that  the  cars  them- 
selves were  the  neatest  and  most  commodious  I  had  yet 
seen  in  my  excursion. 

After  clearing  the  minor  places  on  its  route,  the  train 
entered  a  spacious  valley  with  an  arm  of  the  sea  at  its 
lower  extremity;  and  here,  on  both  sides  of  a  tidal 
basin  connected  by  bridges,  stands  the  venerable  city 
of  Providence.  It  was  my  good-fortune  to  have  made 
the  acquaintance  of  a  gentleman  of  the  place  in  the 
course  of  my  voyage  across  the  Atlantic;  and  hospi- 
tably entertained  by  him  on  the  present  occasion,  I  was 
enabled  to  acquire  much  useftd  information  respecting 
the  locality.  To  get  to  my  friend's  residence,  it  was 
necessary  to  drive  up  a  steep  street  leading  from  the 
central  part  of  the  town  in  an  easterly  direction  towards 
a  high  level  ground  above,  on  which  rows  of  handsome 
villas  have  recently  been  erected.  The  villas  are, 
indeed,  mostly  of  wood,  but  they  are  very  pretty,  with 
neat  gardens  in  front,  and  gateways  by  which  you  may 
drive  up  to  the  door.  Some  have  glass  conservatories 
for  flowers  and  tropical  plants,  connected  with  the 
drawing-rooms;  and  it  is  seen  fi'om  other  indications, 
that  we  have  got  among  a  class  of  dwellings  inhabited 
by  families  of  taste  and  opulence. 

Temporarily  settled  in  one  of  these  suburban  struc- 
tures, I  requested  as  a  favour  to  be  conducted  to  the 
spot  where  Roger  Williams  had  landed  in  the  settle- 
ment. It  was  at  no  great  distance.  The  site  of  the 
city  of  Providence,  and  this  part  of  its  environs,  is  a 
stretch  of  land  between  two  indentations  of  the  sea ; 


RHODE  ISLAND. 


231 


and  we  have  only  to  walk  about  a  mOe  to  the  eastern 
boundary  of  the  peninsula  to  find  the  subject  of  our 
research.  A  short  ramble  along  a  broad  and  newly 
laid  out  avenue,  oflfering  frontages  for  building-lots, 
led  us  to  the  brink  of  a  high  bank,  from  which  we 
could  look  down  on  the  memorable  scene.  Before  us 
is  a  sea- water  inlet,  of  no  great  breadth,  with  a  sandy 
and  rocky  shore  on  each  side,  surmounted  by  rough, 
shrubby  banks;  all  being  as  yet  untouched  by  art, 
though  probably  destined  to  be  involved  in  the  traffic 
which  in  the  first  instance  has  settled  around  the 
harbour  of  Providence.  By  a  rough  path,  we  scrambled 
down  the  declivity  to  the  water^s  edge,  and  there  stood 
on  the  dark  slaty  rock  from  which  Williams  is  said 
to  have  been  saluted  by  the  Indian.  According  to  the 
legend,  the  words  'What  cheer,'  were  employed  on 
this  occasion;  and  till  the  present  day  the  seal  of  the 
city  of  Providence  represents  Williams's  landing,  sur- 
mounted by  '  What  cheer'  as  a  motto.  '  What  cheer' 
is  the  perpetual  slogan  of  the  Rhode  Islanders.  It  is 
seen  stamped  on  their  public  documents;  and  in  the 
principal  street  of  Providence,  there  has  lately  been 
erected  a  remarkably  fine  building,  entitled  'What 
Cheer  Hall!' 

After  visiting  the  landing-place  of  Williams,  I  pro- 
ceeded towards  the  town  in  quest  of  other  memorials  of 
the  apostle  of  toleration.  Of  these,  however,  not  many 
are  in  existence.  Williams,  at  his  death,  left  nothing 
of  an  enduring  kind  but  the  memory  of  his  good  deeds, 
and  over  his  mortal  remains  no  monumental  stone  has 
been  erected.  The  himible  edifice  in  which  he  minis- 
tered has  long  ago  been  succeeded  by  a  larger  and 
more  handsome  church  pertaining  to  the  Baptist  com- 
munion. It  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  an  open  piece 
of  ground,  on  the  slope  qf  the  hiU  near  the  town.     On 


i 


IS 


J 


S82 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


f  ;     '  1 1 


ii  i       • 

•iv      1 


obtained,  there  has  been  erected  a  neat  edifice  for  the 
accommodation  of  the  Historical  Society  of  Providence. 
Here,  among  many  curiosities  of  an  old  date  referring 
to  colonial  affairs,  were  sliewn  some  crown-chartors ;  and 
in  a  mass  of  detached  papers  I  had  the  pleasure  of 
seeing  several  letters  of  Roger  Williams,  written  in*  a 
small  cramped  hand,  and  yellow  with  age— almost  the 
only  relics  wliich  Providence  can  shew  of  its  celebrated 
founder.     Across  the  way,  and  at  the  same  elevation, 
are   situated  various   stone  buildings   devoted  to   the 
piu-poscs    of   the    Brown    University — an   institution 
directed  by  the  Baptists,  and  under  the  presidency  of 
Dr  Wayland,  author  of  a  well-known  treatise  on  moral 
philosophy.     I  looked  through  the  library  of  the  uni- 
versity, which  consisted  of  20,000  volumes  of  choice 
literature,  kept  in  the  finest  order.     In  a  more  central 
part  of  the  town,  is  the  Athenaeum,  an  establislunent 
wliich  combines  a  large  library  for  general  use  with  a 
reading-room,  where  I  found  a  choice  of  English  news- 
papers and  periodicals.     Providence  possesses  a  variety 
of  benevolent  and  disciplinary  institutions,  and  is  not 
behind  any  city  of  its  size  in  New  England  for  the 
number  of  its  schools.     On  the   Sunday  during  my 
stay,  I  attended  one  of  the  Congregational  churches, 
in  wLich  a  good  practical  discourse  was  delivered  to 
a  respectable  audience.     The  population  of  Providence 
is  about  37,000,  who  possess  among  them  thirty-five 
churches  of  one  kind  or  other ;  so  that  it  can  scarcely 
be  said  the  tolerant  doctrines  of  Williams  have  led  to  a 
neglect  of  religious  ordinances. 

Ehods  Island  possesses  several  other  towns  of 
importance,  one  of  them  being  Newport,  a  place  of 
fashionable  summer  resort,  situated  on  the  island  which 
gives  its  name  to  the  state.  In  its  general  industrial 
features,  Rhode  Island  resembles  the  neighbouring 
New    England    states,    beina:    thicklv    stiirlrlpd    x^ih 


RHODE  ISLAND. 


cotton,  woollen,  and  other  manufacturing  establishments, 
for  which  water-power  presents  numerous  facilities. 
But  more  interesting  than  any  of  its  material  pur- 
suits, is  the  singularly  democratic  character  of  its 
constitution,  which,  as  lias  been  said,  differs  little  from 
that  which  was  impaitcd  by  Charles  II.  to  the  colonists. 
While  Massachusetts  was  placed  under  the  authority 
of  a  governor  delegated  by  the  crown,  the  settlers  of 
Rhode  Island  were  empowered  to  elect  a  governor  from 
among  themselves,  and  the  routine  of  ^'  r>  election  has 
proceeded  uninterruptedly  since  1663.  ^.he  revolution 
which  overthrew  the  English  authority  in  the  States 
generally,  was  therefore  attended  with  no  novelties  in 
the  administration  of  Rhode  Island.  A  governor,  senate, 
and  house  of  representatives  are  elected  annually  by 
the  citizens  of  the  state,  the  ordinary  expenses  of 
which,  derived  from  a  population  of  147,000,  and  an 
area  of  47  by  37  miles,  are  only  50,000  dollars: 
Besides  this  sum,  the  state  expends  directly  from  its 
treasury  for  education  35,000  dollars  per  annum,  to 
which  may  be  added  55,000  dollars  raised  by  local 
assessment  for  the  same  purpose.  The  yearly  salary 
of  the  governor,  I  understand,  is  400  dollars.  Tliink 
of  .£80  a  year  for  a  governor;  and  think  also  of 
another  fact  which  excites  equal  surprise — a  state  in 
wliieh  more  is  expended  for  education  than  for  the 
whole  apparatus  of  civil  government!  Happy  little 
state,  which  seems  to  go  on  flourishingly  under  a 
taxation  of  a  dollar  a  head,  everj^thing  included  !  And 
yet  in  this  elysium  there  has  been  a  rebellion.     In 

1842,  an  extreme  party,  much  to  the  discredit  of  Rhode 
Island,  took  up  arms  to  vindicate  their  irregular  pro- 
ceedings; but  the  community  pluckiug  up  courage, 
quelled  the  insmTeciioTi  with  little  trouble;   and  in 

1843,  the  existing  modified  constitution  was   adopted 


I 


I 
I 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 

Settled  into  the  condition  of  an  old  country,  Rhode 
Island,  like  Massachusetts  and  Connecticut,  does  not 
offer  a  field  for  copious  immigration;  but  I  am  war- 
ranted in  saying  that  artisans,  and  almost  ?very  class 
of  manual  labourers,  would  have  no  dijQficulty  in  get- 
ting employment  at  good  wages.    At  Providence,  I  was 
told  of  an  Irish  labourer  who  had  contrived  to  save 
1500  doUars,  with  which  he  cleared  out  for  the  Western 
States,  where   land  is   still   easily  acquired.      In  the 
course  of  my  conversation  with  gentlemen   who  called 
on  me  during  my  short  stay  in  the  place,  I  was  ques- 
tioned respecting  the  condition  of  the  working-classes 
in  Great  Britain ;  the  subject  being  apparently  a  matter 
of  interest  to  those  intelligent  inquirers.     The  descrip- 
tion I  was  able,  from  personal  knowledge,  to  give  of 
the  ploughmen  in  Scotland,  was  listened  to  with  much 
surprise.     'A  rural  labourer  of  this  class,'  I  said,  'is 
bom  and  lives  all  his  days  in  a  h^    ible  cottage,  thatched 
or  slated,  consisting  only  of  ont    partment,  which  con- 
tains two  beds.     The  floor  is  of  clay,  beaten  hard,  and 
is    generally  damp    and   productive    of  rheumatisms. 
The  inside  of  the  walls  is  usually  whitened,  seldom 
plastered;  and  a  ceiling  is  ordinarily  made  of  old  mats 
nailed  to  rafters,  about  seven  feet  from  the  floor.     The 
furniture  consists  principally  of  half-a-dozen  deal-chairs, 
a  deal-table,  some  plain  crockery,  one  or  two  iron  pots, 
and  a  flat  disk  of  iron,  whereon  to  bake  oaten-cakes  or 
bannocks  of  peasemeal.     Besides  this  kind  of  bread, 
the  food  of  the  family  consists  of  oatmeal-porridge, 
milk,  hard  cheese,  and  a  little  fried  bacon ;  occasionally 
broth,  with  a  modicum  of  meat.     In  the  house  of  a 
thri%  ploughman,  no  tea,  coffee,  sugar,  or  any  luxury 
whatever  is  used,  except  on  very  rare  occasions.     To 
take  up  the  ploughman  at  infancy,'  I  continued,  '  he  goes 
to   the   parish   school,   which   is  perhaps  three  miles 
distant;  and  he  is  there  instructed  to  read,  write,  and 


RHODE  ISLAND. 


I.I 
S85 


cipher,  for  which  his  parents  pay  the  teacher  a  fee  of 
from  two  to  four  shillings  every  quarter  of  a  year. 
They  also  furnish  him  with  books;  one  of  these  is  a 
Bible — the  reading  of  which  as  an  ordinary  lesson, 
with  the  committing  of  a  catechism  and  some  psalms 
to  his  memory,  as  a  task,  usually  constitute  what 
in  Scotland  is  called  a  "religious  education."  If  the 
family  is  numerous,  one  juvenile,  in  corduroys  and 
bare  feet,  is  indulged  with  schooling  only  in  alternate 
quarters.  The  schoolmaster  may  be  good  or  bad ;  but 
over  him  the  parents  of  pupils  possess  no  control  what- 
ever. He  is  a  fixture  for  hfe,  and  amenable  only  to  the 
clergy  of  the  Established  Church,  to  whom  he  probably 
becomes  a  kind  of  ycophant.  Should  his  life  be 
extended  to  superannuation,  no  assistant  can  be  legally 
imposed  on  him,,  and  in  some  instances,  accordingly, 
the  education  given  is  most  miserable.  What  with 
this  poor  sort  of  schooling,  herding  cows,  or  helping  at 
farm-work,  the  youth  grows  to  manhood,  and  is  hired 
at  a  country  fair  to  act  as  a  ploughman.  Young 
immarried  ploughmen  are  in  some  places  lodged  in 
huts  by  themselves,  or  accommodated  with  beds  in  the 
haylofts  over  the  stables — in  either  case,  greatly  to 
their  demoralisation.  Getting  over  this  critical  period 
of  his  life,  the  ploughman  marries,  and  a  fresh  family 
routine  ensues.  The  cottage  he  occupies  is  one  of  four 
or  five,  built  in  a  row,  not  far  from  the  farm-steading, 
and  called  collectively,  "the  hinds'  houses."  Each 
cottage  is  provided  with  a  small  garden  for  growing 
vegetables;  but  seldom  has  it  a  single  exterior  accom- 
modation of  any  kind.  Coal,  sticks  gathered  for  fuel, 
and  a  dunghill,  lie  heaped  in  front  or  rear — a  scene 
of  dirt  and  confusion.  In  this  habitation  and  the 
adjoining  fields,  the  ploughman  passes  his  days.  For 
his  remuneration,  he  has  the  use  of  his  dwelling  rent- 
free  I  and  besides  a  money-wage,  has  so  much  meai  and 


mm 


236 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


^^^U 


Other  perquisites  as  make  up  a  total  of  about  £30  per 
annum;  to  which  liberty  to  keep  a  pig  and  fowls  are 
considered  to  be  important  additions.     What  he  gives 
for  all  this  is  a   hard   servitude,   admitting   of  little 
relaxation  or  inteUectual  improvement.     He  possesses 
no  political  privileges  whatever.     Publicly,  he  is  not 
recognised,  further  than  being  under  the  protection  of 
the  law,  or  as  forming  material  for  the  militia  ballot, 
when  that  is  in   operation.     He  is  not  called  on  to 
serve  on  any  jury,  or  to  take  part  in  any  parish  or 
county  meetings,  or  to  vote  for  one  thing  or  other. 
His  condition,  in  short,  when  considered  apart  from 
religious  consolations,  is  without  hope.    From  his  miser- 
able earnings,  after  rearing  a  famUy,  what,  in  old  age, 
can  he  have  saved?     Unless  aided  by  his  daughters, 
some  of  whom  may  be  in  domestic  service,  or  employed 
to  work  in  the  fields,  he  probably  dies  a  parish  pauper. 
Latterly,'  I  added,  'an  attempt  has  been  made  by  the 
gentry  to  render  the  ploughmen's  dwellings  more  con- 
sistent with  decency  and  comfort,  and  in  some  places 
considerable  improvements  have  been  introduced.' 

at  appears  to  me/  said  a  gentleman  present,  'that 
the  condition  of  your  rural  labourers  is  little  better 
than  that  of  unprivileged  serfs.' 

'There  is  this  great  difiference,'  I  observed, '  our  rural, 
and  all  other  classes  of  labourers,  are  not  a  degraded  or 
despised  caste.  They  are  free,  and,  under  fortunate 
circumstances,  may  rise  from  a  humble  to  a  high 
station.' 

'  True,  so  far,'  was  the  reply.  '  But  the  freedom  you 
impart  is  associated  with  such  depressing  influences, 
that  the  chance  of  rising  is  very  slender.  The  state  of 
popular  education  in  Scotland,  according  to  your  own 
account,  is  very  bad;  and  in  England  it  is  worse. 
Only  one-half  of  the  women  who  are  married  in 
England  can  sign  their  names.     Great  numbers  of  the 


£S0  per 
owls  are 
he  gives 
of  little 
possesses 
3  is  not 
jction  of 
a  ballot, 
d  on  to 
arisli  or 
r  other, 
irt  from 
s  miser- 
old  age, 
ughters, 
cnployed 
pauper. 
3  by  the 
)re  con- 
3  places 

t,  ^that 
!  better 

ir  rural, 
aded  or 
•rtunate 


RHODE  ISLAND. 


287 


a 


high 


om  you 
uences, 
state  of 
ur  own 

worse, 
'ied    in 

of  the 


rural  labourers  cannot  read.  Your  aristocracy,  having 
insured  the  ignorance  and  incapacity  of  the  peasantry, 
turn  round  and  say  they  are  unfitted  to  exercise  any 
political  privileges — a  pretty  kind  of  liberty  that !  The 
Americans  are  amused  with  the  schemes  resorted  to  in 
England  for  the  purpose  of  promoting  improved  tastes 
among  the  humbler  classes.  Parties  who,  as  members 
of  the  legislature,  habitually  vote  against  every  reason- 
able plan  for  extending  education,  unite  with  benevolent 
ladies  and  gentlemen  to  oflPer  premiums  to  the  best 
cultivators  of  flowers,  bees,  and  cabbages ;  and  we 
observe  by  the  Times,  that  a  society  in  England  holds 
out  expectations  of  a  prize  of  a  new  coat,  with  fancy 
metal  buttons,  to  every  peasant  who  reaches  sixty  years 
of  age,  without  demanding  or  receiving  relief  from  the 
parish !  Anything  rather  than  educate  the  people — 
charity  rather  than  justice  ! ' 

I  was  glad  to  say  in  answer  to  these  remarks,  that 
at  present  considerable  efforts  were  being  made  to 
extend  education  in  Great  Britain,  which  would  at  no 
distant  day  be  successful.  The  circumstance  of  so 
many  English  travellers  inquiring  into  the  methods  of 
popular  instruction  in  the  United  States,  shewed  that 
attention  was  directed  to  the  subject. 

'As  you,  then,^  said  my  acquaintance,  'are  making 
inquiries  of  this  nature,  be  pleased  to  understand — that 
the  education  of  all  is  a  paramount  necessity  of  our 
condition.  For  our  own  safety,  Ave  must  educate  the 
people;  whereas  in  Great  Britain,  where  the  humbler 
classes  have  no  political  privileges,  it  appears  to  be  a 
matter  of  indifference  whether  they  are  educated  or 
not.' 

It  is  unnecessary  to  continue  my  notes  of  this  con- 
versation. The  last  remark  may  be  said  to  have 
brought  out  the  philosophy  of  the  question.  Ele- 
muntai'y  education,  so  far  as  to  eualiie  every  freeman 


238 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


HI     -ii 


to  exercise  the  duties  of  citizenship  with  credit  to 
himself  and  without  danger  to  his  neighbours,  is  a 
state  necessity  in  America.  But  we  should  be  doing 
injustice  to  leave  it  to  be  supposed  that  this  guiding 
principle  dates  from  the  era  of  American  independence. 
It  is  English,  not  American ;  and  originated  with  the 
rule  of  the  Pilgrim  Fathers,  who,  with  all  their  prag- 
matical and  intolerant  notions,  had  so  high  a  sense  of 
the  advantages  of  elementary  instruction,  that  one  of 
their  first  public  acts  was  to  '  enjoin  upon  the  municipal 
authorities  the  duty  of  seeing  that  every  child  within 
their  jurisdictions  should  be  educated.^  This  was  as 
early  as  1643,  since  which  period,  the  system  of  ele- 
mentary schools  has  been  improved  in  various  ways,  and 
firmly  established  throughout  the  New  England  states, 
whence  it  has  extended  to  other  parts  of  the  Union. 

A  few  facts  respecting  the  system  of  education  in  the 
parent  state  of  Massachusetts,  may  here  be  adverted 
to.  In  the  first  place,  the  education  is  conducted  at 
the  public  expense,  and  therefore  no  fees  are  paid  by 
pupils.  The  doctrine  on  this  point  is — that '  the  public 
highway  is  not  more  open  and  free  for  every  man  in 
the  community,  than  is  the  public  school-house  for 
every  child;  and  each  parent  feels  that  a  free  education 
is  as  secure  a  part  of  the  birthright  of  his  offspring, 
as  Heaven's  bounties  of  light  and  air.  The  state  not 
only  commands  that  the  means  of  education  should  be 
provided  for  all,  but  she  denounces  penalties  against  all 
individuals,  and  all  towns  and  cities,  however  populous 
or  powerful  they  may  be,  that  shall  presume  to  stand 
between  her  bounty  and  its  recipients.  In  her  righteous 
code,  the  interception  of  knowledge  is  a  crime ;  and  if. 
parents  are  unable  to  supply  their  children  with  books, 
she  becomes  a  parent,  and  supplies  them.'  * 


'  Report  on  Common  Schooh  of  Massachusetts,  07  iioraee  Mann.     1849. 


RHODE  ISLAND. 


239 


The  next  remarkable  feature  of  the  common-school 
system  of  Massachusetts  is,  that  it  is  under  the 
administration  of  a  general  board  of  education,  with 
local  boards  elected  by  all  who  pay  school-rates.  No 
corporations,  lay  or  ecclesiastic,  have  anything  to  say 
in  the  matter.  Schools  are  erected  in  districts,  or 
divisions  of  towns,  according  to  the  wants  of  the 
population,  as  ascertained  by  a  periodical  census.  The 
laws  regulating  the  number  of  schools  are  exceedingly 
minute  in  their  provisions.  In  1850,  the  population 
of  Massachusetts  was  994,499,  or  close  upon  a  million. 
Two  years  later — ^that  is,  in  1852 — there  were  in  the 
state  203,880  children  between  five  and  fifteen  years 
of  age,  for  whose  education  the  sum  of  921,532  dollars 
was  raised  by  public  means,  being  very  nearly  a  dollar 
for  every  inhabitant.  Of  the  above  number  of  children, 
the  mean  average  attendance  at  the  common  schools 
was  144,477.  It  appears,  however,  that  20,812 
attended  private  schools  and  academies ;  so  that  the 
entire  number  of  children  habitually  at  school  was 
165,289,  or  about  1  in  6  of  the  population.  In  none 
of  the  reports  coming  under  my  notice  is  any  expla- 
nation given  of  the  cause  why  the  attendance  falls 
so  far  short  of  the  actual  number  of  children.  On 
inquiring  into  tiie  circumstance,  it  was  said  that  many 
parents  were  satisfied  with  sending  their  children 
three  months  in  the  year  to  school;  the  extreme 
temperature  in  winter  and  summer  was  also  said  to 
cause  irregularity  of  attendance;  and  a  heavy  com- 
plaint was  made  against  foreigners,  more  particularly 
Irish,  for  not  taking  care  to  send  their  children  regu- 
larly to  the  free-schools.  In  Massachusetts  there  are 
laws  against  truantcy ;  parents  who  neglect  to  enforce 
the  attendance  of  their  children  at  the  free-schools,  or 
any  private  school  of  their  own  choosing,  being  liable  in 
penalties ;  but  I  fear  these  laws  are  loosely  executed. 


240 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


^1 
'4  ' 


In  the 


appointment  of  teachers,  no  religious  test  is 
imposed ;  it  being  sufficient  that  they  are  of  a  sound 
moral  character,  and  competent  for  their  duties.  I 
believe  that  much  difficulty  is  experienced  in  finding 
teachers  who  will  attach  themselves  permanently  to 
their  situations;  and  the  constant  shifting  tends  to 
interrupt  and  injure  the  routine  of  instruction. 

The  state,  in  enjoining  imiversal  education,  does  not 
consider  itself  entitled  to  prescribe  instruction  in  any 
specific    religious    doctiines— these  being  left    to    be 
taught  by  parents,   by  religious  pastors,  or  by  other 
private   agencies.      The   teacher,   however,   is    recom- 
mended to  begin  the  duties  of  the  day  by  reading  a 
portion  of  the  Scriptures,  or  by  repeating  the  Lord's 
Prayer.     The  absence  of  direct  religious  instruction  is 
represented  by  a  recent  English  traveller  as  a  defect  in 
the  New  England  system,  which  is  leading  to  universal 
demoralisation.     I   feel   assured   that  this,   like   some 
other  faults  with  which  the  Americans  are  charged,  is 
a  gross   misrepresentation,   foimded   on  the  views   of 
interested  parties— for  even  in  New  England,  certain 
denominations  are  chagrined  at  not  being  allowed  to 
monopolise  the  duty  of  imparting,  at  the  expense   of 
the   state,  their  own  peculiar  tenets.*     Much,  I  was 

*  In  connection  with  this  subject,  I  may  introduce  the  following  passage 
from  the  National  Magazine  (December  1853),  a  respectable  periodical 
published  in  New  York  :— '  At  the  present  moment  an  important  discussion 
is  going  on  [in  England]  in  reference  to  popular  ed.^  ation ;  and  the  question 
has  been  not  a  little  embarrassed  by  reports  from  certain  sources  in  this 
country,  that  our  system  tends  to  a  wide-spread  and  confirmed  infidelity,  and 
to  great  laxity  of  morals.  It  is  a  significant  fact,  that  these  opinions  have 
only  been  advanced  by  those  who  were  previously  con  mitted  to  the  advocacy 
of  parochial  or  sectarian  schools.  The  discussion  has  been  of  great  service, 
however ;  for  it  has  awakened  the  community  to  the  importance  of  insisting 
upon  higli  moral  qualifications  in  their  instractors,  and  upon  decided  Christian 
discipline  in  the  schools.  An  interesting  inquiry,  suggested  by  an  English 
gentleman,  was  made  in  reference  to  the  statements  above  alluded  to,  under 
the  direetioii  of  ^XTtaia  friends  of  the  LiassachusetLs  Boai-d  of  Education.    The 


RHODE  ISLAND. 


241 


g 


told,  18  Clone  to  extend  religious  instruction  on  a  footing 
of   kmdly   m^^erest,    by    means    of    Sabbath- evening 
classes;   and   so  far  as  I  may  judge,  from  what  feU 
under  my  notic.   at   Boston,  an  extraordinary  degree 
of  attention  is  given   to   this  kind  of  instruction   by 
young  persons  of  both  sexes,  connected  with  different 
congregations.     I  may  add,  that  if  the  people  are  not 
ammated  by   moral    and    religious    convictions,    they 
^eatly  bebe  outward   appearances;    for  it  is  certain 
that  no  such  scenes  of  loathsome  vice  or  intemperance 
IVa-^1  in  ^Boston  as  may  be  witnessed  in  the  streets 
of  Edinburgh  or  Glasgow. 

I   can  positively  affirm,  from  personal  observation, 

that,   m  point  of   general    discipline,    the  American 

schools  greatly  excel  any  I  have  ever  seen   in   Great 

Bntam.     In  Canada  and  in  the  States,  every  suitable 

provision  is  made  for  the  purposes  of  decency-a  thino- 

usually  neglected  in   the  parish   and   burgh    school! 

system  of  Scotland.     I  was   much  pleased   with   the 

arrangements    in  the  American    schools    to    prevent 

disorder    or  improper  interference   one  with   another 

among  the  pupils.     All  are  seated  at  smaU  desks,  not 

more  than  two  together,  in  rows;  so  that  the  teacher 

can  convemently  reach  every  seat  in  the  school.     It  is 

customaiy,  likemse,  to  cause  all  the  pupils  to  enter 

and  depart   slowly   and  decorously,   instead  of  being 

object  of  the  inquiry  was  to  discover  how  many  of  the  attendants  unon 
^he  common  schools  were  also  members  of  SabbatLchools,  and  were    eel- 
u^g  rehg^ous  xns  ..ctxon  through  this  instrumentality.     The  result  reached 
by  exammxng  the  schools  in  Boston,   Lowell,  and  representative  towns  in 
commercial  and  agncultural  districts,  was  that,  on  an  average,  90  per  cent 
of  all  the  cbldx^n  connected  with  the  comn.on  school  were'  It  the' tim    „f 
he  e.ammation,  or  had  been,  connected  with  the  Sabbath-school,  and  were 
recenung,    through  this  important   instrumentality,  religious  cult^e.     Th! 
was,  mdeed  an  unexpected  and  g.-atifying  result,  justifying  a  remark  that 
has  somewhere  been  made-that  the  Sabbath-school  is  the  evan,elis^  of  tie 


S42 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


I 


suffered,  as  I  observe,  even  in  some  of  tlie  more 
pretentious  schools  of  Edinburgh,  to  rush  rudely  out 
like  so  many  wild  animals.  In  Massachusetts,  and 
generally  in  the  States,  the  plan  of  imparting  a  free 
education  according  to  abilities,  is  pursued  through 
several  grades — primaiy,  intermediate,  and  grammar 
schools,  such  as  have  been  noticed  in  New  York ;  and 
I  would,  from  the  bare  knowledge  of  this  fact,  ask 
any  one  to  compare  so  wide  a  range  of  instruction 
at  the  public  cost,  with  the  meagre  and  antiquated 
routine  of  elementary  education  legally  maintained 
in  Scotland,  and  which  some  persons  complacently 
represent  as  the  perfection  of  human  wisdom.  Boston, 
with  a  population  of  about  150,000,  appropriates 
330,000  dollars  for  the  support  of  public  schools,  being 
more  than  a  fourth  of  the  whole  city  taxes ;  and  as 
the  number  of  pupils  is  nearly  23,000,  the  yearly  cost 


of   educating    each    child    is    therefore   about  fifteen 


dollars.  In  what  city  in  Great  Britain  could  we  find 
the  inhabitants  voluntarily  taxing  themselves  to  give 
every  child  an  education  at  £3  a  head?  Besides  her 
elementary  and  advanced  schools,  her  normal  schools, 
and  her  university,  Massachusetts  supports  a  State 
Reform  School  at  Westborough.  It  is  on  the  principle 
of  an  industrial  institution — ^work  of  various  kinds, 
including  field-labour,  being  given  to  the  inmates. 
To  this  school,  young  persons  from  seven  to  eighteen 
or  nineteen  years  of  age  are  sent  by  courts  of  justice, 
for  petty  ofiences.  Of  724  committed  since  the  opening 
of  the  school,  115  were  born  in  foreign  countries, 
mostly  in  Ireland. 

Looking  at  Massachusetts  as  a  small  and  compara- 
tively sterile  state,  of  only  a  million  of  inhabitants,  it 
is  matter  of  astonishment  that  she  does  so  much  for 
social  amelioration.  '  For  public,  free  education  alone,* 
says   Horace   Mann,    in    the    paper    already   quoted^ 


RHODE  ISLAND. 


243 


aouars.     lo  support  religious  institutions  for  ♦),„ 
worship  of  God  and  the  salvation  of  men  sle  anIaUv 

grtTif  T,  '"'°*"^'  """^^  -" '  "e 

gives    away,    in    the  various    forms    of    charitv    ft, 
exceeds  a  third  sum  of  equal  magnitude^     f^'  fl" 
^Port  of  the  poor,  nine-tenths  of  whose  cost  orill 
with  foreigners,  or  eome  from  one  prolific  vice   wW 
ast    convulsive    energies    she   is    L    stZ^^Z 
subdue,  she  annually  pays  more  than  300,000  dolL" 
for  the  support  and  improvement  of  pub  ic  high  ™™ 
Bhe  pays  a  much  larger  sum;    and  within  the  last 
do  en  or  fourteen  years,  she  has  invested  a  caZi  in 
railways,  within   and  ,vithout  the  state    of  Tf  i 

Sv     <n  ""^  '^*"^'   ""-^   *!>«  answer  is 

ready :      One   copious,   exhaustless    fountain    supphes 
all  this  abundance.     It  is  Education-the  intelleS 
moral   and  religious  education  of  the  people'    I  "m 
glad  to  be  able  to  present  this  as  the  opinion  of  on^ 
who  may  be   presumed  to  be   better   acquainted  wkh 

han    1  It  '"''™'="?  "''*  -^  ^"y  •«. 

M::aZsetr=""'^ "'"'  -^^  ^  --^  -'  ^ 

I  have  elsewhere  had  occasion  to  refer  to  the  general 

Imfr  1  *■=  tr""^^  °^  *«  operative-elafrt 
W  of  ;e!r  "  '^"^•'•^^P':'^'  ^-i  orferly  conduct,  their 
love  of  readmg  and  anxiety  to  improve  their  c  rcnm 
stances;  and  that  these  quaUties  are  in  no  small  d3e 
a  result  of  a  system  of  universal  school  instruction^we 
We  the  best  testimony  in  the  special  Reports  rf  Mr 

ttr^ew  y"  W  T  '""P''  Whitworth,'conceiLi 
the  New  York  Industrial  Exhibition,  laid  before 
parbament  a  few  months  ago.  A  few  passages  from 
these  interesting  Reports  may  not  be  here  n„t  Tf 
place.  — 


d44 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


I' 


Speaking  of  American  workmen,  Mr  Wallis  ob- 
serves, that  no  one  can  '  fail  to  be  impressed  with  the 
advantages  derived  from  the  long  and  well-directed 
attention  paid  to  the  education  of  the  whole  people  by 
the  public-school  systems  of  tlie  New  England  States 
and  of  the  state  of  Pennsylvania.  Here,  where  sound 
and  systematic  education  has  been  longest,  and,  in  aU 
probability,  most  perfectly  carried  out,  the  greatest 
manufacturing  developments  are  to  be  found;  and 
here  it  is  also  where  the  greatest  portion  of  the  skilled 
workmen  of  the  United  States  are  educated,  alike  in 
the  simplest  elements  of  knowledge,  as  in  the  most 
skilful  application  of  their  ingenuity  to  the  useful  arts 
and  the  manufacturing  industry  of  their  country,  and 
from  whence  they  are  spread  over  the  vast  territories 
of  the  Union,  becoming  the  originators,  directors,  and, 
ultimately,  the  proprietors  of  establishments  which 
would  do  no  discredit  to  the  manufacturing  states  of 
Europe.^  Mr  Wallis  goes  on  to  say — '  As  there  is  no 
apprenticeship  system,  properly  so  called,  the  more 
useful  the  youth  engaged  in  any  industrial  pursuit 
becomes  to  his  employer,  the  more  profitable  it  is  for 
himself  Bringing  a  mind  prepared  by  thorough  school 
discipline,  and  educated  up  to  a  far  higher  standard 
than  those  of  a  much  superior  social  grade  in  society 
in  the  Old  World,  the  American  working-boy  develops 
rapidly  into  the  skilled  artisan;  and  having  once 
mastered  one  part  of  his  business,  he  is  never  con- 
tent until  he  has  mastered  all.  Doing  one  mechanical 
operation  well,  and  only  that  one,  does  not  satisfy  him 
or  his  employer.  He  is  ambitious  to  do  something 
more  than  a  set  task,  and,  therefore,  he  must  learn  all. 
The  second  part  of  his  trade  he  is  allowed  to  learn 
as  a  reward  for  becoming  master  of  the  first ;  and  so 
on  to  the  end,  if  he  may  be  said  ever  to  arrive  at  that. 
The  restless  activity  of  mind  and  body — the  anxiety  to 


RHODE  ISLAND. 


245 


improve  his  own  department  of  industry-the  facts 
constantly  before  him  of  ingenious  mZ  who  hat 
solved  economic  and  mechanical  problems  to  their 
own  profit  and  elevation-are  all  stimulative  and 
encouraging;  and  it  maybe  said,  that  there  is  not  a 
w»kmg  b„y  of  average  abiUty  in  the  New  England 
States,  at  least,  who  has  not  an  idea  of  some  mechaS 
mvcntion  or  improvement  in  manufactures,  by  wM  h 
n  good  time  he  hopes  to  better  his  position^  .1  rise 
to  fortune  and  social  distinction.' 

t.l'  P'T'i'  ^''°.''y  °^  "P""''™  carpenters  in  a  large 
town  in  England  have  struck  work,  m  consequence  of 
their  employers  having  introduced  machinery  into  their 
establishments.     Facts  of  this  kind  continSlly  o^Z 
nng  in   Great  Britain,    contrast    strangely  ,rith  t"e 
statements  presented  by  Mr  Whitworth  respecting  the 
eageniess  with  which  American  operatives,  through  a 
supenor  intelligence,  assist  in  promoting  mechanical 
contrivances.      He  says,  'wherever  machfnery  "^0 
mtroduced  as  a  substitute  for  manual   lab"   is 
universally  and  wilHngly  resorted  to;  of  this  tli^  facte 
s  ated  m  my  Report  contain  many  conclusive  proofe 
but  I  may  here  speciaUy  refer,  as  examples,  to  plou-h- 
making,  where  eight  men  are  able  to  finish  30  perTay: 
to  door-makmg,  where  twenty  men  make  100  panellei 
doors  per  day;  to  last-making,  the  process  of  wUc .  is 
completed  m  U  minutes;  to  sewing  by  macW 
where  one  woman  does  the  work  of  lo;^o  iteS 

SbnTrTr  '*'"'  *'  '»*  "^  !«••     "  i«  this 
condition  of  the  labour-market,  and  this  eager  resort 

to  machinery  wherever  it  can  be  applied,   to  wh  ch 

under  the  guidance  of  superior  education  and  M 

rmamW   '"T^fr"  T^'^^^  "^  *^  United  States 
IS  "namly  due.'      He  afterwards  mentions,  th-.t   'the 
results  which  have  been  obtained  in  the  United  s^.^s 
by  the  application  of  machinery  wherever  it  has  been 


346 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


'irt 
'I  t 


!i': 


Mf- 


practicable  to  manufactures,  are  rendered  still  more 
remarkable  by  the  fact,  that  combinations  to  resist  its 
introduction  are  there  unheard  of.  The  workmen  hail 
with  satisfaction  all  mechanical  improvements,  the 
importance  and  value  of  which,  as  releasing  them  from 
the  drudgery  of  unskilled  labour,  they  are  enabled 
by  education  to  understand  and  appreciate.'  Mr 
Wliitworth  concludes  by  saying,  that  'the  principles 
which  ought  to  regulate  the  relations  between  the 
employer  and  employed  seem  to  be  thoroughly  under- 
stood and  appreciated  in  the  United  States ;  and  while 
the  law  of  limited  liability  aflfords  the  most  ample 
facilities  for  the  investment  of  capital  in  business,  the 
intelligent  and  educated  artisan  is  left  equally  free  to 
earn  all  he  can,  by  making  the  best  use  of  his  hands, 
without  let  or  hinderance  by  his  fellows.  It  rarely 
happens  that  a  workman  who  possesses  peculiar  skill 
in  his  craft  is  disqualified  to  take  the  responsible 
position  of  superintendent,  by  the  want  of  education 
and  general  knowledge,  as  is  frequently  the  case  in  this 
countiy.  In  every  state  in  the  Union,  and  particularly 
in  the  north,  education  is,  by  means  of  the  common 
schools,  placed  within  the  reach  of  each  individual, 
and  all  classes  avail  themselves  of  the  opportunities 
afforded.'  But  in  the  United  States  there  is  another 
element  of  improvement  in  ceaseless  operation — the 
press.  '  The  desire  of  knowledge  so  early  implanted 
is  greatly  increased,  while  the  facilities  for  diffusing  it 
are  amply  provided  through  the  instrumentality  of  an 
almost  universal  press.  No  taxation  of  any  kind  has 
been  suffered  to  interfere  with  the  free  development  of 
this  powerful  agent  for  promoting  the  intelligence  of 
the  people;  and  the  consequence  is,  that  where  the 
humblest  labourer  can  indulge  in  the  luxury  of  his 
daily  paper,  everybody  reads,  and  thought  and  intelli- 
gence nenetrate  throuffh  the  lowest  erades  of  soniRtv. 

__  fT-- ,7- 


RHODE  ISLAND, 


247 


' 


TJe  benefits  which  thus  result  from  a  liberal  system 
of  education  and  a  cheap  press  to  the  working-classes 
of  the  Umted  States,  can  hardly  be  overestimated  in  a 
national  point  of  view;  but  it  is  to  the  co-operation  of 
both  that  they  must  undoubtedly  be   ascribed.      For 
If,  selectm-  a  proof  from  among  the  European  states, 
the  condition  of  Prussia  be  considered,  it  will  be  found 
that  the  people  of  that  country,  as  a  body,  have  not 
made  that  progress  which,  from   the   great   attention 
paid  to  the  education  of  all  classes,  might  have  been 
anticipated;  and  this   must  certainly  be   ascribed   to 
the  restrictions   laid  upon  the   press,  which  have  so 
materiaUy  impeded  the   general   advancement  of  the 
people.     Wherever  education  and  an  unrestricted  press 
are  aUowed  full  scope  to  exercise  their  united  influence 
progress  and  improvement  are  the  certain  results;  and 
among  the  many  benefits  which  arise  from  their  joint 
co-operation,   may   be   ranked   most  prominently   tlie 
value  which  they  teach  men  to  place  upon  intelligent 
contrivance,  the  readiness  with  which  they  cause  new 
improvements  to  be  received,  and  the  impulse  which 
they  thus  unavoidably   give  to   that   inventive   spirit 
which  IS  gradually  emancipating  man  from  the  rude 
forms  of  labour,  and  making  what  were  regarded  as 
the  luxuries  of  one  age  to  be  looked  upon  in  the  next 
as   the   ordinary  and  necessary  conditions   of  human 
existence.* 

It  would  be  easy,  if  room  permitted,  to  extend  our 
observations  on  the  subject  of  elementary  education  in 
the  New  England  and  other  states.  What  has  been 
s^d  is  enough  to  shew  that  in  this  department  of  public 
afiairs,  the  Americans-and  I  may  add,  the  Canadians 
—have  got  completely  the  start  of  the  people  of  Great 
Bntain,  who  indeed,  in  this  respect,  ai-e  behind  the 
±.nghsh  Puritans  of  the  seventeenth  century— behind 
,...,,11  ^^.^.^^  ^  ucuLUi-y  earner.     Winle  generation 


348 


THINGS  AS  THEY  AEE  IN  AMERICA. 


after  generation  in  England  is  passing  away  imper- 
fectly instructed  for  the  present,  and  as  imperfectly 
prepared  for  a  future  state  of  existence,  our  American 
brethren,  imimpeded  by  obstructions  of  any  kind,  have 
shot  far  ahead,  and  are  carrying  the  triumphs  of  free 
and  imiversal  education  to  limits  scarcely  so  much  as 
dreamed  of  in  this  country. 


I 


mper- 
rfectly 
ericaii 
.,  have 
»f  free 
ich  as 


CHAPTER     XV. 


WASHINGTON. 

The  season  was  now  considerably  advanced,  and  I  had 
just  time  to  make  a  run  southwards,  previous  to  the 
opening  of  Congress  at  Washington,  on  the  5th  of 
December,  at  which  I  felt  some  curiosity  to  be  present. 
The  journey  would,  unfortunately,  take  me  twice  over 
the  same  ground;  but  for  this  there  was  no  help.  I 
proposed  to  go  through  New  York  to  Philadelphia,, 
and  thence,  without  stopping,  through  Baltimore  to 
Washington,  leaving  the  return  excursion  to  be  per- 
formed  with  somewhat  more  deliberation.  As  a  chain 
of  railways  is  extended  from  Boston  much  further  south 
than  I  had  any  intention  of  going,  it  was  practicable  to 
make  the  whole  journey  in  from  two  to  three  days. 

On  a  Monday  morning,  at  eight  o'clock,  I  bade 
adieu  to  my  kind  friends  in  Providence,  and  taking  my 
place  in  the  cars,  hoped  to  arrive  at  Philadelphia  late 
m  the  evening.  But  in  this  plan  of  operations  I  was 
destined  to  experience  disappointment.  The  cars  got 
on  admirably  for  about  a  dozen  miles,  when  on  slowly 
leaving  a  station,  they  were  by  a  sudden  concussion 
brought  to  an  abrupt  halt.  Quietly  and  apatheticaUy 
a  few  persons  sallied  forth  to  see  what  was  the  matter 
—I  went  with  them ;  and  finaUy,  everybody  in  the  train 
came  out  to  learn  the  particulars  of  the  disaster. 

There  we  all  stood  in  a  group  near  the  locomotive, 
which,  with  the  tender  behind  it,  was  placed  in  a  highly 


250 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


I 


cntical  position.    By  an  act  of  carelessness,  exceedindv 
common    on   the  American   railways,   the  person  in 
charge  of  a  siding  had  neglected  to  adjust  the  points 
to  suit  the  up-train,  and  the  locomotive  having  run 
nght  off  the  track,  was  stuck  fast  in  the  middle  of  a 
rudely  constructed   wooden  bridge;   one   of  its  fore- 
wheels  whn-ling  in  the  air  over  the  abyss  beneath.     A 
little  more  impetus  would  have  sent  the  whole  train 
to  the  bottom  of  the  river,  which  flowed  through  the 
ravine.    As  no  personal  injury,  however,  was  sustained, 
the   accident  was  rather  amusing  than  otherwise.     I 
had    again   an   opportunity   of  remarking  the   placid 
impassibility  of  the  American  character.     In  En-land 
there  would  have  been  vehement  upbraidings  of  some' 
body  or  other.   Here,  there  was  perfect  impertm-bability. 
Everybody  looked  on  in  silence,  as  if  nothing  particular 
had  occurred.     The   only  person   who  made  himself 
heard  was  an  umbreUa  pedler,  who,  taking  advantage 
ot  what    he   probably  considered    to  be   a  fortunate 
assemblage  of  customers,  rushed  madly  about  recom- 
mending his  wares  to  public  notice,  and  assuring  every 
one  that  he  would  never  have  such  another  chance  of 
purchasmg  a  good,  substantial,  and  cheap  umbrella 
In  a  moment,  I  saw  that  my  day's  journey  was  cut 
Short.     The  railway  was  only  a  single  line,  and  the 
bridge,  blocked  up  by  the  locomotive,  was  barely  pass- 
able  on  foot.     Our  only  hope  was  the  arrival  of  a  train 
in  the  opposite  direction,  which  might  exchange  passen- 
gers, and  return  on  its  track.     MeanwhHe,  the  morning 
was  very  cold,  and  most  of  us  sought  the  refuge  of  a 
small  station-house,  which  was  provided  with  a  fire  in 
an  iron  stove.     Around  the  cheering  blaze  we  clustered 
a  solemn  band,  into  the  midst  of  which  the  everiasting 
umbrella  pedler  ever  and  anon  thrust  himself  with  his 
bundle  under  his  arm,  telling  everybody  that  now  was 
the  time  to  buy  a  right  eood  cotton  umbrplln      a^,^  „^ 


-  I 


WASHINGTON. 


261 


an  hour  was  spent  in  the  station-house,  till  the  train 
from  Worcester  was  heard  approaching,  and  drawing 
up  in  time  to  avoid  running  m  upon  the  unfortunate 
locomotive  in  its  path. 

'I  say,  conductor,  how  are  we  to  get  across  that 
there  bridge?'  asked  several  passengers.  *You  see  it 
IS  quite  open,  with  only  beams  for  us  to  step  upon,  and 
hardly  room  to  pass.' 

The  conductor  paid  no  attention  to  any  such  inquiries, 
but  began   carrying  across  portmanteaus  and  carpet- 
bags, while  the  conductor  of  the  other  train  did  the 
same  with  the  baggage  under  his  charge;  and  for  half 
an  hour  there  was  a  scrambling  of  men,  T/omen,  and 
childieu,  conductors  and  baggage-masters,  to  and  fro, 
till  the  exchange  was  wholly  effected— the  scene  remind- 
ing one  of  the  Vision  of  Mirza,  no  one,  however,  having 
the  misfortune  to  drop  through  the  openings  in  the 
bridge  into  the  dark  pool  below.     I  had  the  honour  of 
conducting  a  middle-aged  lady  and  band-box  across  the 
gulf,  and  was  rewarded  with  a  warmth  of  thanks  and 
good  wishes  which  I  had  not  on  any  previous  occasion 
experienced.      Having    all    successfully    achieved   the 
adventure  of  crossing,  we  took  our  places  in  the  train, 
which  then  moved  on  to  Worcester,  leaving  the  passen- 
gers who  had  come  with  it  to  find  their  way  to  Pro- 
vidence as  they  best  might.     The  last  thing  I  saw  was 
a  crowd  of  them  pulling  at  a  rope  which  was  attached 
to  the  errant  locomotive;  but  how  long  they  pulled,  or 
whether  they  got  the  engine  back  to  its  proper  position 
on  the  rails,  I  am  unable  to   say.     Without  fiirther 
detention,  we  arrived  in  Worcester,  but  so  considerably 
behind  time,  that  the  morning  train  from  Boston  to 
New  York  had  long  since  passed. 

I  did  not  altogether  regret  a  delay  of  five  or  six 
hours  in  what  I  found  to  be  one  of  the  prettiest  and 
busiest  towns  iu  New  England.     The  Tvide  streets, 


■■nm 


232 


TBINOS  AS  THEY  ABE  IN  AMERICA. 


ornamented  with  trees,  were  lined  with  large  and  hand- 
some  stores,  while  in  the  environs  there  appearedrbe 
I7r  "T^»"-  "'  --  importanee""  Worcester 
11^         A-^encan  Birmingham;  articles  of  hard- 
ware   bemg    Its    pnncipal    products,    among    which 
telegraph-wire   and    pistols    have  a  prominent  place 
RecoUecting  the  name  of  a  manufacturer  of  r  Jway: 
cars,  I  visited  his  establishment,  and  procured  some 
mformation  that  promised  to  be  useiiU.    I  was  gratified 
WLth  the  respectable  appearance  of  the  operatives  in  the 
town,  and  learned  that,  in  point  of  sobriety  and  other 
estimable  habits,  they  were  not  behind  their  brethren 
in  other  parts  of  Massachusetts.     At  the  hotel  where  I 
dmed,  the  bar  had  been  abolished;  and,  as  usual,  the 
large  company  at  the  table-d'h6te  drank  nothing  but 
^ea-™ter.     As  the  majority  of  the  persons  prLnt 
seemed  to  be  commercial  travellers,  the  spectacle  of 
such  temperance  contrasted  strangely  with  what  I  knew 
to  be  customary  m  England. 

Catching  the  evening  train  from  Boston  on  its  way 
to  New  York,  I  arrived  at  my  old  quarters  in  the 
Astor,  an  hour  after  midnight,  and  set  off  again, 
w  thont  delay,  m  the  morning.  The  journey  south 
wards  from  New  York,  begins  by  crossing  Norft  River 
ma  ferry-boat  to  Jersey  City  on  the  opposite  shore; 
and  there  a  tram  is  m  waiting  to  carry  forward  the 
passengers.  On  this  occasion,  a  large  number  required 
accommodation;  for  members  of  Congress,  with  thdr 
famdies,  were  taking  their  flight  to  Washington  for  the 

moTi:!"''"^  ^"^  °"  *''^''™^  *°  -^°-  ^«" 

The  route  through  the  state  of  New  Jersey  was  tame 
and  umnteresting.  Much  of  the  land  is  level,  with  a 
reddish  sandy  soil,  yielding  heavy  crops  of  peaches  and 

strinirf  ;.'       ""'f  ^^Ie^«  orchards,  some  not  quite 
stripped  of  their  produce,  were  passed  in  the  journey. 


■■ 


•' 


WASHINGTON. 


253 


At  the  distance  of  eighty-seven  miles,  the  train  was 
intercepted  on  the  borders  of  the  state  by  a  navigable 
nver,  half  a  mile  wide;  on  the  further  side  of  which 
was  seen  a  large  city  of  brick-houses,  faced  by  at  least 
a  mile  of  wharfs  and  shipping.  In  a  few  minutes,  we 
have  exchanged  our  seats  in  the  cars  for  the  deck  of 
a  steamer,  and  are  borne  forward  on  the  surface 
of  the  beautiful  Delaware  to  the  far-famed  city  of 
Philadelphia. 

Reaching  the  city  of  Brotherly  Love,  I  do  not  stay 
m  my  journey;  but  ungraciously  passing  over  classic 
ground,  hasten  to  the  railway-station,  where  the  cars 
are  ready  to  set  out.     Now  begins  a  fresh  excursion, 
the  tram  m  the  first  place  crossing  the  Schuylkill,  and 
tlien  proceeding  through  an  old  and  settled  part  of 
Pennsylvania;   but  the  land  is  still  mostly  level,  and 
the  soil  appears  thin,  ^dth  a  scrubby  vegetation.     It 
IS  usually  understood  that  the  river  Delaware  marks 
a  change  in  climate.     Here  we  find  the  air  milder  than 
It  IS  in  the  north;  and  the  number  of  black  faces  which 
make    their   appearance,   give  token   of   an  approach 
to  new  social  conditions.     In  the  course  of  the  day's 
run,  several  rivers  and  creeks  of  the  sea  are  crossed  on 
viaducts— one  of  them  a  long  and  low  wooden  erection 
on  piles  in  the  water;  and  at  two  places  the  trajet  is 
performed,  as  at  the  Delaware,   in  ferry-boats.     The 
first  of  the  ferries  is  that  of  the  Susquehanna,  a  large 
river  m  Maryland,  flowing  into  Chesapeake  Bay.     The 
shifting  here,  to  reach  Havre-de-Grace,  a  small  town 
on    the    southern    bank,   is  complained  of    by   some 
traveUers;  but  I  accepted  it   as  rather  an  agreeable 
variety  m  the  excursion.     The  interior  of  the  steamer 
which  carried  the  passengers  across  was  fitted  up  with 
a  restaurant,  where  tea,  coflPee,  and  other  hght  refresh- 
ments  were    served    at    a  moderate    cost.      For  the 
accommodation  of  persons  of  colour,  an  inferior  place 


254 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


h('< 


of  refreshment,  fitted  up  separately,  was  under  the 
charge  of  a  respectably  dressed  female  mulatto.  In 
this  arrangement  there  was  nothing  very  novel;  for 
in  the  New  England  States,  as  well  as  in  the  state  of 
New  York,  I  had  eveiywhere  found  separate  churches 
and  separate  schools  for  the  use  of  the  coloured 
population.  By  such  experiences  in  traveUing,  one  is 
partly  prepared  for  the  more  severe  distinctions 
incidental  to  the  states  in  which  slavery  prevails. 

Baltimore,  which  I  saw  for  a  short  time  in  passing, 
and  also  on  my  return,  occupies  a  pleasant  situation  on 
a  nsing-ground  overlooking  the  river  Patapsco,  and  is 
one  of  the  best  built,  as  it  is  among  the  oldest,  cities 
in  the  United  States.     Placed  on   a  navigable  water 
connected  with  the  Chesapeake,  it  appears  to  be  a  busy 
mart  of  foreign  commerce,  with  a  considerable  number 
of  vessels  loading  and  unloading  at  its  quays.     Like 
other  eastern   cities,   it  has   competed  for  the  trade 
of  the  West;    and  now,   by  means   of  a  railway  to 
Wheelmg,    on   the   Ohio,    has    largely  increased    its 
operations.      Although    oiJy   about    a    hundred    and 
twenty    years    old,    Baltimore,    in    1850,    contained 
195,000  inhabitants,  and  at  present  is  in  as  thriving 
a  condition  as  any  city  in  the  Union.     It  is  celebrated 
for  the  number  of  its  public  monuments,  one  of  which 
is  commemorative  of  those  who  fell  defending  the  city 
against  the  attack  of  the  British  in  1814. 

Maryland  does  not  contain  many  slaves,  and  I 
believe  the  number  in  this  state,  as  well  as  in  Delaware, 
18  gradually  diminishing.  The  harvest  being  past,  and 
the  fields  generally  stripped  of  everything  but  Indian 
corn-stalks  and  other  refiise,  the  country  had  a  some- 
what dreary  aspect.  At  difierent  places,  in  passing 
along,  negrciis  in  frieze-jackets  and  raiind  hats  were 
observed  ploughing  up  the  stubble—the  work  not 
exactly  such  as  would  gain  a  prize   at   a  match  on 


WASHINGTON.  ggg 

Tweedside,  although  both  horses  and  pi  iighs  seemed 
to  be  of  the  best  kind      GeneraUy,  five  or  six  teams 
were  going  m  one  lield,  with  an  overseer  riding  about 
on  horseback.     In  the  distance,  might  be  seen  the  neat 
villa  residences   of  the   proprietors,   with   clusters   of 
white  cottages  for  the  slaves  and  their  families.     The 
whole  routine  of  farming  seemed,  indeed,  to  be  different 
from  Avbat  is  observable  in  the  northern  states,  where 
small  properties  are  cultivated  almost  entirely  by  the 
settler  anrl  his  family— every  one  working  diligently 
and  notlmig  being  paid  away  for  hired  labour  of  any 
kind.  ^ 

Brought  thus  in  sight  of  slavery,  though  under  no 
revolting    circumstances,    I   could    not,   with    aU   my 
anticipations,   avoid  feeling   somewhat   shocked;    but 
what  for  the  moment  chiefly  occupied  my  mind,  was 
the  apparcntlyuneconomic  practice  of  buying  men  at 
a  considerable  cost  to  labour  in  the  fields,  instead  of 
hiring  and  dismissing  them  at  pleasure.     To  a  gentle- 
man who  was  seated  before  me  in  the  car,  I  ventured 
^  to  hint  that  the  practice  of  using  purchased  labour 
must  here  place  the  farmers  at  a  considerable  disad- 
vantage.    He   acknowledged  that  such  was   the   case 
to   a  certain  extent.      'Slavery,'  said  he,  'does  very 
well,  nay,  is  absolutely  necessary,  in  the  hot  southern 
states,  where  no  negi-o  would  work  but  on  compulsion, 
and  where  free  white  labourers  could  not  work  at  all 
without  falling  a  sacrifice  to  the  climate.     But  here- 
abouts,  things    are   different.      Our    crops    could    be 
cultivated  by  farmers   and  their  famiHes,   as  in  the 
north.' 

'Then,'  said  I,  'why  is  the  system  of  slavery 
contmued— if  it  can  be  advantageously  done  away 
with?'  '' 

'  Ah !  don't  ask  me  that,'  was  the  reply;  '  it  is  here  an 

old  institution,   nnrl  rnQf+ova  i,«,ris i   ji  ■, 

, ...^,„^^,-,  iiavg  ttxriiiigcu  memseivea 


ir  i  ;• 


!  I 


256 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


accordingly.  It  is  an  unfortunate  state  of  things,  and 
I  daresay  will  be  remedied  some  day.  My  opinion 
is,  that  much  mischief  has  been  done  by  the  rough 
manner  in  which  the  Abolitionists  have  abused  the 
slave-owners,  many  of  whom  are  very  worthy  people. 
If  the  subject  were  treated  calmly,  the  system  of  slavery 
in  these  middle  states  would  soon  drop  away.  At  this 
moment,  considerable  numbers  of  New  Englanders  are 
buying  farms  in  Virginia,  and  introducing  their  own 
vigorous  method  of  working.  Exhausted  estates  are 
constantly  to  be  had  at  very  low  prices;  and  in  the 
hands  of  the  smart  Yankee  farmers,  who  know  how  to 
plough  deep  and  to  lay  on  plenty  of  guano,  they  turn 
out  capital  speculations.' 

'Do  these  fresh  incomers,'  I  inquired,  'employ 
negroes  ? ' 

'  I  think  not ;  they  trust  to  themselves,  though  they 
may  have  one  or  two  helps.' 

'Will  the  free  negroes  readily  work  for  them?'  I 
asked ;  touching  on  a  rather  trying  question. 

'Not  if  they  can  help  it.  The  truth  is,  sir,  the 
whole  coloured  races,  of  every  shade,  are  a  poor,  listless 
set  of  people;  not  but  there  are  exceptions  among 
them.  I  never  knew  any  who  would  not  amuse  them- 
selves, or  idle  away  their  time,  rather  than  follow 
steady  employment.  They  do  very  well  as  porters, 
house-servants,  coachmen,  barbers,  waiters,  or  cooks — 
anything  connected  with  eating  they  are  good  at. 
They  also  do  tolerably  well  as  preachers;  in  short, 
anything  that  does  not  involve  hard  continuous  work.' 

'  Would  they  not  make  good  railway  excavators  ?' 

'Not  at  all;  the  labour  would  be  too  heavy  for 
them.  Notwithstandhig  the  numbers  of  free  negi-oes, 
our  railways  have  been  made  principally  by  Irish.  Ah ! 
sir,'  was  added  with  a  grin,  '  Pat 's  the  boy !' 

'  I  am  sorry,'  said  I,  'to  hear  so  bad  an  account  of 


1 


1 


WASHINGTON. 


257 


fpLrTl'*'^'^.  'T-  ^"^  ^«*  '^^^  unfortunate 
defects  of  character  be  traced  in  no  small  degree  to 
the  treatment  they  have  received  ?'  e         " 

'  Cannot  teU  anything  at  all  about  that/  replied  mv 
companion.     <  I  just  know  this,  that  I  am  heartily  sick 
of  them ;  and  should  be  glad  to  sec  the  country  rid  of 
the  whole  concern.     They  are  a  regular  nuisance,  sir  i' 
The  person  who  made  tliese  remarks  was  an  officer 
m  the  uniform  of  the  United  States'  navy,  on  his  way 
to  Washmgton ;  and  they  were  made  with  the  sincerity 
and  frankness  of  a  sailor.     I  have  thought  it  proper  to 
record  what  was  said,  in  order  to  convey  an  idea  of 
sentiments,  far  from  uncommon  in  America,  respecting 
the  coloured  population. 

It  was  dark  before  the  train  reached  Washington. 
About  nine  o'clock,  it  drew  up  at  a  handsome  station, 
outside  of  which  were  in  waiting  a  string  of  carriages 
invitingly  open  for  passengers.     By  the  recommenda- 
tion  of  my  new  naval  friend,  I  seated  myself  in  that 
belonging  to  WiUard's  Hotel,  and  was  in  a  few  minutes 
ridmg  towards  the  further  extremity  of  the  city     The 
moon  shone  out  as  we  passed  the  Capitol,  and  by  its 
silvery  light  revealed  a  large  white  edifice,  with  a  dome 
towenng  above  us,  on  the  summit  of  a  commanding 
eminence.     At  the  distance  of  a  mile  westward  aW 
^Pennsylvania  Avenue,   the   termination    of   my  W 
day's  journey  was  reached;   and  I  thankfully  sought 
refreshment  and  repose. 

Travellers  do  not  usuaUy  speak  flatteringly  of  Wash- 
mgton.  Every  one  seems  to  think  it  his  duty  to  have  a 
slap  at  Its  pretensions,  which  faU  so  very  far  short  of  the 
reality.  It  is  my  misfortune  in  this,  as  in  some  other 
things,  to  differ  from  most  of  my  predecessors,  and  to 
see  little  ground  for  either  sarcasm  or  jocularity.  All 
that  can  be  said  of  Washington  is,  that  it  is  a  city  in 
process  of  being  built  and  occupied ;  and  has  aWv 

Q  "' 


258 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


I 


since  its  commencement  about  sixty  years  ago,  acquired 
a  populati(.Li  ii   ij/iOO,  independently  of  an  increase 
from  n^(    il)cr«'   -^f  the  legislature  with  their  families, 
and  \Tisitors,  during  the  sessions  of  Congress.     After 
the  witticisms  at  its  alleged  spectral  appearance,  I  was 
rather  surprised  to   discover  that,   instead  of  a   few 
mansions  scattered  about  nmon!?  trees,  with  miles   of 
interval,   it   consisted  of  a  number   of    streets   lined 
with  continuous  rows  of   houses,   several  fine  public 
buildings,  and    a    fair    show    of    stores   and    hotels. 
Why  tlie  Americans   should    aim  at  building  a  city 
specially  for  the  accommodation  of  their  government, 
is  not  quite  clear  to  the  minds  of  Europeans,  who  are 
accustomed  to  great  overgrown  capitals  in  which  the 
wealth   and   grandeur   of  a  nation   are   concentrated. 
Originating  partly  in  the  wish  to  remove  the  adminis- 
tration beyond  the  immediate  action  of  popular  influ- 
ences, Washington,  I  believe,  owes  its  rise  chiefly  to 
the  desirableness   of  placing  the  political  metropolis 
in   a  locality    apart   from,  and  independent   of,    any 
particular    state.     The    situation,   though  no    longer 
equidistant  from  the  several  states  in  the  Union,  was 
exceedingly  well  chosen  by  the  great  man  whose  name 
was  given  to  the  city.     The  Chesapeake  Bay,  one  of 
the  largest  inlets  of  the  Atlantic,  receives,  about  half- 
way up  on  the  western  side,  the  large  river  Potomac, 
itself  for  a  long  way  up  a  kind  of  firth  or  sea  tv/o  to 
three  miles  in  width.     Where  it  narrows  to  about  a 
mile,  at  the  distance  of  290  miles  from  the  Atlantic, 
the   Potomac  parts   into  two  branches;    and  between 
these,   on  the  left  or   eastern  bank  of  the  principal 
branch,  Washington  has  been  erected.     The  peninsula 
so  selected,  is  spacious,  with  gentle  slopes,  and  would 
afford  accommodation  for  a  city  many  miles  in  extent. 
On  a  central  ridge  of  ground,  with  a  stretch  of  open 
doNTOs  between  it  and  the  Potomac,  stands  the  principal 


squired 
acrcase 
imilies, 

After 
,  I  was 

a  few 
dies  of 
3   lined 

public 

hotels. 

a  city 
rnment, 
^'llO  are 
ich  the 
ntrated. 
dminis- 
ir  influ- 
defly  to 
itropolis 
3f,    any 

longer 
on,  was 
3e  name 

one  of 
ut  half- 
*otomac, 
I  tv/o  to 
about  a 
Ulantic, 
between 
arincipal 
eninsiiJa 
d  would 
L  extent, 
of  open 
principal 


WASHINGTON. 

259 

portion  of  the  city;  the  Capitol,   or  seat  of   led- 
lat  on,  bemg  at  the  eaBtem  extremity,  on  a  detaS" 
emmenee,  and  the  house  of  the  President  on  the  ^Prf 
a  nsing-ground  a  mUe  westward.  ^ 

Planned  whoUy  on  paper  before  a  siuffle  honsp  w». 
budt,  the  thoroughfares  have  been  arranged  in  p"^d 

pstd  ^^  tC  trx^:  -;rS 

street  m  the  world.     It  measures  160  feet  in  width 
-  he  whole  of  the  middle  part  for  carnages  Z^t 

shade  in   ttr  V  T      i  '  ™Partmg  an   agreeable 

sfiade  m  the  heats  of  summer.     Built  of  brick    red 

sandstone,  or  wood,  the  houses  throughout  the  c^;  a^ 

of  the  smart  and  tasteful  kind  seen'  in  the  noXm 

states,  and  as  there  is  plenty  of  space  for  mews  1^^ 

nothing  mcongruous  is  obtruded  on  the   eye  of  the 

stranger,  unless  it  be  the  number  of  ne^oTof  bith 

sexes,  prmcipally  slaves.    At  the  periodTf  my  ^ 

much  was  domg  in  the  way  of  levelUng  and  paX  fte 

streets;  and  I  learned  that  the  value  of  prop™/had 

lately  risen  considerably.  P>="y  naa 

Having  surmounted  the  initiatory  difficulties  Wash 
.ngton  may  now  be  said  to  be  in  a  course  of  ml^e" 
ment  creditable  to  the  liberality  of  the  nation    C  I" 

ireasury.    The  district  of  Columbia,  in  which  the  citv 
js^ae^-a  smaU  temtoiy,  formerl^  a  part  of  M^^ 

2.^    P"ssessmg  no  separate  political  character-is 

under  the  administration  nf  r«„„™.     r, ,.  . 

i3iv,TO,     vuiupiaiuis  are 


200 


THINGS  AS  THEY   \RE  IN  AMERICA. 


mi 


:H 


I    I 

I   : 


occasionally  heard  of  the  expenses  to  which  the  country- 
is  put  on  account  of  Washington;  but  if  the  people 
only  knew  the  sums  lavished  by  parliament  on  the 
palaces,  parks,  and  police  of  the  British  metropolis, 
at  the  cost  of  the  entire  United  Kingdom,  they  would 
have  reason  to  be  thankful  for  being  so  mercifully 
dealt  with. 

As  yet,  compreherded  within  a  narrow  compass,  and 
open  in  all  quarters  to  visitors,  Washington  may  be 
satisfactorily  seen  in  a  single  forenoon.  The  first  thing 
done  is  to  visit  the  Capitol,  which  is  observed  standing 
proudly  on  its  eminence,  surrounded  by  an  enclosed 
pleasure-ground,  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  Penn- 
sylvania Avenue.  In  walking  down  this  principal 
thoroughfare  on  the  morning  after  my  arrival,  there 
was  little  bustle  to  remind  one  of  being  in  a  political 
metropolis  of  some  celebrity.  In  the  long  line  of 
street,  there  appeared  only  an  omnibus  on  its  way 
to  George  Town,  in  the  vicinity,  and  one  or  two 
hackney-cabs.  As  the  morning  was  fine,  the  steps  of 
the  various  hotels  were  already  crowded  with  lately 
arrived  members  of  Congress ;  and  the  various  parties 
clustering  in  debate,  shewed  that  matters  in  connection 
with  the  approaching  proceedhigs  were  in  agitation. 

Built  of  light-colom'ed  stone,  and  in  the  Coiiathian 
style  of  architecture,  the  Capitol,  with  its  wings,  hand- 
some portico,  and  lofty  dome,  is  an  edifice  of  imposing 
appearance.  Advancing  up  the  exterior  flights  of 
steps,  and  entering  the  portal,  we  are  ushered  into  a 
central  rotunda,  ninety-five  feet  in  diameter,  and 
lighted  from  the  cupola  above.  On  the  walls  around 
this  spacious  vestibule,  and  on  a  level  with  the  eye,  are 
placed  a  series  of  large  pictures  representing  scenes 
in  American  history ;  two  of  which,  the  surrender  of 
Burgoyne  and  of  Cornwallis,  cannot  but  bring 
unpleasant   recollections  to  the  mind   of  the   English 


v,%^^ 


WASHINGTON.  g^j 

Visitor.     ClrdiH  arr  placed  in  front  of  the  pictures,  for 
the  benefi    of  s^ir.gers,  who  are  further  accommodated 
with  a  pnr  ^cd  V  ,y  to  the  figures.     At  different  points, 
doors  leaa  u  Jn   er  lobbies,  whence  access  is  gained  to 
the  Hall  of  the  House  of  Representatives,  and  to  the 
Senate.chr„-.in  r,  tl,e  Library,  and  other  rooms-all  so 
frequently   described,   that    I    spare   any   account    of 
them   on   the  present   occasion.      I   must    not    omit 
however,   to   mention    one    thing,    from   its   extreme 
novelty.     Tins  is  the  perfect  liberty  to  roam  at  will 
without  question  and  without  payment,  over  the  whole 
bmlding.     Nor  is  there  any  want  of  attendants  ready 
and  willing  to  afford  any  sort  of  information.     By  one 
of  these,  I  was  obligingly  conducted  to  the  top  of  tlie 
cupola,  wlience  a  splendid  view  was  obtained  of  the 
city  beneath;  the  two  environing  arms  of  the  Potomac 
beyond  which    were    the   woody    hills    of    Virginia' 
forming  a  framework  to  the  picture.     On  descending 
from  this  giddy  altitude,  I  ventured  to  offer  a  gratuity 
to  my  conductor,  which  he   respectfully  refused,  with 
an  explanation  worthy  of  recording :    '  I  cannot  take 
any  money,  sir,  for   doing   my  duty.     I  am  a  public 
officer,  and  paid  by  the  public'     If  there  be   a   door 
or  galleiy  keeper  in  either  House  of  Parliament,  who 
would  m  this  way  refuse  half-a-crown,  let  him  by  all 
means   be   named,  for  he  must   unquestionably   be  a 
prodigy ! 

The  grounds  around  the  building  are  prettily  kid 
out  with  shady  walks;  and  near  the  entrance  is  a 
sparkling  fountain  with  a  drinking-cup,  to  appease 
the  insatiate  craving  for  water,  which  seems  a  kind  of 
disease  among  the  Americans.  In  the  grounds  on 
the  east,  is  the  celebrated  statue  of  Washington  by 
Greenough;  it  is  of  colossal  size,  in  a  sitting  posture 
and  being  executed  in   Parian  marble,   the   effect  is 

striking,   thmio-li  ihn  HnoMo+z-vT.   ;«  ^^f  :^  _!.•_.  ..i   i         J      . 

o^  -c -^-^^^^vau^Jx  io  liui  ixii;JLiucu  lo  admire 


262 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


i-)' 


I 


the  exploded  fancy  of  representing  a  modern  soldier  as 
a  half-naked  Roman.  There  are  several  other  figures 
connected  with  the  Capitol,  hut  none  which  appears  to 
require  notice. 

The  puhhc  buildings  I  next  visited  were  the  Post- 
office   and  Patent-office,  two  remarkably   fine   edifices 
of  white  marble,  near  the  centre  of  the   town.     The 
Patent-office  contains  a  most  extraordinary  collection 
of  models  of  articles  which  have  been  the  subject   of 
a  patent;   and   no   other   spectacle   could   furnish   so 
comprehensive   a  notion  of  the  inventive  faculties  of 
the    Americans.      A    spacious    haU,   with    ranges    of 
glass-cases  lining  the  walls   and   projected  across   the 
floor,  is  full  of  every  variety  of  object  in  mechanical 
art   and   science.     Adjoining,  are  apartments  devoted 
to  the  examination  ^md  emuliiieixu  of  articles ;  and  on 
the  floor  ?hove,  is  a  museum  of  natural  history  and 
objects  of  antiquarian  interest.      Compared  with  the 
treasures  of  the   British   Museum,   the   collection    is 
insignificant;   and   as   centrahsation  at  the  cost  of  a 
whole  people  is  repugnant  to  the  constitution  of  the 
States,   it    may  be    apprehended    that    the    national 
museum  wiU   never   attain   the   extent   and  grandeur 
exhibited    in    the    collections    of    European    capitals. 
The  articles  most  worthy  of  notice  are  certain  rehcs 
connected    with    American    history  —  as,    the    dress, 
sword,    and    camp-equipage    of   General   Washington, 
and    the    original    document   in    vellum,    declaratory 
of   the    independence     of    the     States,    bearing    the 
autographs   of  the   signers,  very  much  faded.     In   a 
separate   glass-case   stands   the   old  wooden  printing- 
press  at  which  Franklin  wrought  when  a  journeyman 
in   London  in  1725-6.     Removed  from   the  office  in 
Wild  Street,  Lincoln's  Inn  Fields,  where  the  young 
'American  aquatic'  had  laboured  at  liis  vocation,  the 
machine  underwent  several  changes  of  proprietors,  till 


WASHINGTON. 


263 


oldier  as 
'  figures 
ipears  to 

le  Post- 
edifices 
n.     The 
jllection 
bject   of 
•nish   so 
iilties  of 
Qges    of 
•OSS   the 
chanical 
devoted 
and  on 
Dry  and 
dth  the 
ition    is 
st  of  a 
of  the 
Qational 
randeur 
:?apitals. 
n  relics 
dress^ 
lingtonj 
laratory 
ng    the 
In   a 
rinting- 
iieyman 
•ffice  in 
young 
on,  the 
ors,  tm 


It  was  finally  presented  to  the  government  of  the  United 
States  by  Mr  J.  B.  Murray  of  New  York.     An  inscrip- 
tion   on    a   brass-plate  narrates   the   circumstance  of 
Franklin  having  visited  the  press  in  London  in  1768 
when  he  came  to  England  as  agent  for  Massach    ,etts.  ' 
Among  the   latest   additions  to  the   attractions   of 
Washington,  the   Smithsonian   Institute  is   the  most 
important;   for   it  bears  reference  to   the  culture  of 
general  knowledge,  on  so  liberal  a  scale  as  cannot  but 
prove  valuable  to  the  community.     Originating  in  the 
bequest  of  an  English  gentleman  named  Smithson  in 
favour  of  the  United  States'  government,  a  large  sum 
has  been  appropriated  to  the  erection  of  a  building  of 
red   sandstone   in  the   Norman  style  of  architecture, 
comprising  a  number  of  towers  and  pinnacles.     The 
building  occupies  a  favourable  situation  in  the  middle 
of  a  lawn,  nineteen  acres  in  extent,  to  the  south  of  the 
city,  near  the  road  towards  the  Potomac.     On  \dsiting 
it,  I  found  that  it  was  not  yet  finished.     But  the  main 
portions,  consisting  of  a  library  and  lecture-room,  were 
open,  both  being  free  to  aU.     Some  valuable  treatises 
have  abeidy  appeared  for  general  distribution  at  the 
expense  of  the  institution.     About  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
westward,  overlooking  the  Potomac,  a  gigantic  obelisk 
was  in  course  of  erection  to  the  memory  of  General 
Washington— to  whom,  Avith  all  deference,  the  multi- 
plicity of  such  testimonials  becomes  a  little  tiresome, 
besides   tending   to   suggest   that   America  has   never 
produced  any  other  person  worthy  of  commemoration. 
This  enormous  pile,  which  is  designed  to  reach  600  feet 
from  the  ground,  is  reared  by  voluntary  subscription 
throughout   the    United   States.      I   suppose   nothing 
since  the  days  of  the  Pyi-amids  has  been  built  on  so 
stupendous  a  scale. 

When   a   stranger  has   seen  these  tilings,  there  is 
nothing  left  to  do  but  take  a  look  at  the  mansion  of 


w 


S64 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


if  ^ 

"    *   3 


f 


the  President,  and  the  adjoining  buildings  devoted  to 
the  Treasury  and  other  administrative  offices.  To  this 
quarter—the  court  end  of  the  town,  as  1  may  call  it— 
I  noAV  adjourned,  for  the  purpose  of  calling  on  a  gentle- 
man connected  with  tlie  government.  Here,  I  have 
pleasure  in  saying,  I  was  received  in  the  same  perfectly 
urbane  and  unceremonious  manner  I  had  uniformly 
experienced  in  my  interviews  with  officials  in  all  the 
places  I  had  \isited. 

'You  will  call  on  the  President,  of  course,'  said  this 
newly  acquired  friend. 

a  should  be  glad  to  do  so,'  I  replied;  'but  I  know  no 
one  to  introduce  me.  I  know  nothing  of  the  etiquette 
to  be  employed  on  the  occasion.' 

'Come  along  witli  mc,  and  I  will  introduce  you. 
The  President  is  perfectly  accessible.' 

So    saying,    we    set   out   immediately;    and    after 
crossing  an  enclosed  patch  of  pleasure-ground,  arrived 
at  the  White  House,  which  has  a  fine  look-out  from 
the  brow  of  an   eminence,  in   a   southerly  direction, 
over  the  Potomac.     The  edifice,  with   a  lifty  portico 
of  Ionic  columns  on  its  nonhern  front,  has  a  massive 
effect,    with   acconnnodation,    I    should  think,    for    a 
large  establishment.     Neither  as  regards  exterior  nor 
interior  appearances,  however,  was  there  anything  to 
remind  the   stranger  that  the  occupant  was  the  head 
of  a  great  nation.     After  seeing  pretty  nearly  all  the 
royal  palaces  in  Europe,    and   being    accustomed  to 
observe  that  the  persons  of  monarchs  were  surrounded, 
either  for  safety  or  distinction,  with   military  guards' 
I  was   much   struck  with  the   total  absence  of  force 
m  any  shape  arouiul  the  dwelling   of  the  President; 
•which,  undefended   from   real   or   imaginary  violence' 
can  only,   in   the   simplicity  of  its   arrangements,   be 
compared  with  a  gentleman's  residence  in  a  quiet  rural 
district.     The  only  person  in  charge  was  a  door-keeper. 


you. 


WASHINGTON.  265 

who  admitted  us  to  one  of  the  lower  reception-rooms 
—a  large  apartment,  decorated  in  the  French  style— in 
which  we  paced  about  a  few  minutes  till  our  cards  were 
carried  up  stairs  to  the  President,  who  was  said  to  be 
engaged  with  his  cabinet. 

'Mention  to  the  President/  said  my  conductor,  in 
giving  the  Cards,  'that  this  is  a  gentleman  from 
Europe.' 

Whether  this  recommendation  had  any  effect,  I  know 
not;  but  after  a  short  delay,  we  were  requested  to 
ascend.  In  going  up  stairs,  my  friend  introduced  me 
to  several  members  of  the  House  of  Representatives 
who  were  coming  down.  Two  of  them,  I  was  after- 
wards informed,  had  been  originally  operative  brick- 
layers, who,  by  a  course  of  industry  and  sclf-cultm-c, 
had  raised  themselves  to  an  honourable  position. 

Almost  immediately  on  reaching  the  assigned  apart- 
ment. General  Pierce  entered  from  a  side-room,  and 
shakmg  hands,  received  me  in  a  most  agreeable  manner; 
at  the  same  time  stating,  that  he  was  now  much 
occupied,  and  hoped  to  have  the  pleasure  of  seeing  me 
again  before  my  depari;ure  from  Washington.  Ec  was 
m  a  plain  black  dress,  apparently  about  forty-five  years 
of  age,  and  I  thought  care-worn  by  the  ceaseless  and 
onerous  duties  he  is  called  on  to  perform. 

I  regret  that  the  demands  on  my  time  did  not  permit 
my  waiting  for  any  of  tlie  soirees  at  the  White  House, 
wliich  usv  allv  commence  witli  the  congressional  sittings; 
and  it  was  d^^,  therefore,  my  good-fortmie  co  see  an  ' 
more  of  the  President,  to  whom  I  am,  however,  nulebtcll 
for  the  affable  manner  in  which  he  was  pleased  to 
reccn  0  me.  B,eturning  to  my  hotel,  I  pondered  on  the 
singularly  simple  forms  by  which  the  President  of  the 
United  States  regulates  his  personal  intercoui'se  with 
the  workL 

I  spent  another  day  in  Wasliington,  making  inquiries 


1 1    -i 


266 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


of  various  kinds,  and  forming  some  agreeable  acquaint- 
ances in  the  place.  It  had  been  suggested  to  me, 
that  I  should,  as  a  matter  of  duty,  call  on  the  British 
minister.  I  endeavoured  to  do  so ;  but  after  wandering 
about  for  two  hours  in  a  straggling  suburb,  west  from 
the  President's  house,  where  his  excellency  was  said  to 
dwell,  I  failed  in  discovering  his  residence ;  no  one  to 
whom  I  applied  knowing  anything  at  all  about  it. 

In  these  and  other  rambles  about  Washington,  the 
number  of  negro  slaves,  of  both  sexes  and  all  ag^s. 
in  the  streets  and   doorways,  and  serving  in  various 
capacities,    was    exceedingly    conspicuous ;     and    this 
anomalous  feature  in  the  social  condition  of  the  capital, 
within  the  very  precincts  of  the  executive  and  legisla- 
ture, wiis  felt  to  lower  the  respect  which,  on  general 
grounds,   we    are   disposed  to   entertain   towards  the 
federal    government.      It   would    almost    seem   as  if 
Congress   were   ashamed   of  the   existence   of  slavery 
within  the  district  over  which  it  exercises  a  municipal 
sway.     According  to  a  late  enactment,  no  public  sales 
of  slaves  or  slave-pens  are  permitted  within  the  district 
of  Columbia.      By    this    means,   the    more   oiFcnsive 
attributes  of  the  institution  do  not  meet  the  eye  in 
Washington;  and   those  who   desii'c^to   see   sales  by 
auction  of  human  creatures,  require  to  travel  a  hundred 
miles  southward  to  Eichmond,  in  Virginia.     With  no 
vulgar   cuiiosity,  but  a  wish   to  satisfy  my  mind   as 
regards   various    controversial   particulars,    I    resolved 
to  make  an  excursion  to  Richmond;  and  the,  account 
of  this  trip,  a  kind  of  episode  in  my  visit  to  Washington, 
will  furnish  the  subject  of  next  chapter. 


CS^: 


CHAPTER    XVI. 


RICHMOND^     IN     VIRGINIA. 

'When  does  the  carnage  leave  tlie  door  for  the 
steamer  down  the  Potomac?^  I  asked  the  book-keeper 
of  Willard^s  Hotel  in  Washington. 

'At  six  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  nine  in  the 
cvemug/  was  the  reply. 

I  prefeiTed  setting  out  in  the  morning,  and  was  ready 
accordmgly_Mr  Willard  being  up  at  this  earlv  horn-, 
and  conj^iderately  providing  each  guest  at  his  departure 
mth  a  cup  of  coffee  (without  charge). 

The  ride  to  the  landing-place  of  the  steamers,  across 
an  open  stretch  of  ground,  occupies  about  half  an  hour, 
and  on  my  arrival,  I  foimd  that  a  number  of  persons 
who  had  just  come  by  the  northern  train,  were  going 
on  board  a  steamer,  which  was  lying  at  the  extremity 
of  a  wooden  pier.  Speedily  everything  was  adjusted. 
A  very  droU-looking  negro  lad,  in  a  kind  of  cocked-hat, 
and  boots  pulled  over  a  pair  of  ragged  pants,  drew  i^ 
the  rope,  and  we  were  off. 

The  Potomac,  more  like  an  inland  sea  than  a  riveri 
and  here  a  mile  in  width,  forms  the  connecting-link 
between  the  northern  and  southern  railways.  The 
line,  as  yet,  stopped  at  Washington;  and  to  get  again 
upon  the  track,  it  was  necessary  to  descend  the  Potomac 
fifty-five  miles,  to  a  place  called  Acquia  Creek,  where 
the  railway  to  Richmond  commences.  An  English 
traveUer  has  said  such  sore  things  of  the  steamers  on 


•■«.  'iiiSBBSfflas^-;  ■. 


ii. 


m 


268 

the  Pol 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


tomac,  that  I  did  not  feel  quite  at  ease  in  making 
so  long  an  excursion  in  one  of  them :  but  I  am  bound 
m  justice  to  say,  that  so  far  as  my  experience  went, 
there  was  nothing  to  complain  of  For  a  company  of 
about  fifty  persons,  two  tables  were  prepared  for  break- 
fast m  a  manner  that  would  have  done  no  discredit  to 
a  first-class  hotel.  A  good-humoured  negro  barber 
plied  his  vocation  in  his  little  apartment.  And  the 
toilet  apparatus  comprehended  no  wooden  bowls— such 
articles  having  utterly  vanished,  if  they  ever  existed 
anywhere  but  in  the  imagination. 

In  fine  weather,  the  sail  down  the  Potomac  from 
Washington   must   be   exceedingly  pleasant;    for  the 
river,  though  broad,  is  not  so  wide  as  to  give  indistinct- 
ness to  the  scenery  on  the  banks.     On  the  right,  we 
have  the  woody  heights  of  Virginia,  and  on  tlie  left, 
the  hiUs  of  Maryland,  with  frequent  glimpses  of  viUa- 
residences  and  farm- settlements  on  both  sides.     At  tlie 
distance  of  six  or  seven  miles  below  Washington,  but 
on  the  Virginia  side,  we  come  abreast  of  Alexandria,  a 
to^yn  of  10,000  inhabitants,  with  a  good  deal  of  shipping 
at  Its  quays,  and  signs  of  manufactming  industry  on  a 
considerable  scale.     Eight  miles  fru-ther  down,  on  the 
same  side,  is  seen  upon  a  green  knoll  among  the  pic- 
turesque woody  eminences,  an  object  of  interest  which, 
cold  as  the  morning  is,  attracts  nearly  all  the  passengers 
from  the  weli-warmed  cabin.     This  is  Mount  Vernon, 
once  the  residence  of  General  Washington,  and  where,' 
m  a  vault  amidst  the  gi-ounds,  tlie  remains  of  tlie  gi-eat 
man  were  intombed.     It  is  a  neat  country  residence, 
with  a  tall  veranda  in  front,  changed  in  no  respect  from 
what   it  was  sixty  years   ago;    but   a  local  authority 
speaks  of  tlie  grounds,  which  were  kept  in  the  greatest 
tnmness  by  7f  ashington,  being  now  in  a  discreditable 
state    of   disorder —a    circumstance    which,    if   true, 
demands    the    attention    of    the    American    people! 


RICHMOND,  IN  VIRGINIA.  26S 

Unfortunately,  the  spot  is  not  easily  reached  by  land, 
otherwise  I  should  have  gladly  made  it  the  object  of 
a  pilgrimage. 

As  the  day  advanced,  the  chilliness  of  the  atmosphere 
wore  off,  and  on  arriving  at  Acquia  Creek,  the  air  felt 
mild  and  agreeable,  although  it  was  the  1st  of  December. 
The  train  was  in  v/aiting  on  a  long  jetty,  and  in  less 
than  ten  minutes  it  had  received  its  freight  of  passen- 
gers and  luggage,  and  was  under-way.  Such  was  my 
entrance  into  Virginia— that  fine  old  state,  settled  by 
English  gentlemen  of  family,  and  whose  history  calls  up 
such  melancholy  thoughts  of  the  unfortunate  Raleigh. 

Much  of  the  country  through  which  we  passed  was 
uncleared  of  woods,  which  had  a  wild  appearance,  and 
the    land,   where    opened    to    agricultural    operations, 
seemed  to  be  of  a  poor  description.     Among  the  trees 
growing  naturally  in  the  patches  of  tangled  forest,  was 
the  arbor  vita,  which  here  attains  a  considerable  size. 
Rhododendrons  himg  their  faded  blossoms  by  the  road- 
sides, where   they  grew  like  common  weeds;   and  in 
other  kinds  of  vegetation,  there  w  as  stiU  the  lingering 
aspect  of  autumn.     On  crossing  the  Rappahannock,  at 
Fredericksburg,  the  agricultural  character  of  the  country 
was  much  improved;  but  even  at  the  best,  and  aU  the 
way  to  Richmond,  a  distance  of  sixty  miles  from  the 
Potomac,  it  fell  short  of  what  I  had  seen  in  Western 
Canada  and   Ohio.     Yet  possessing,   as  it  does,   the 
elements  of  fertility,  what  might  not  be  expected  from 
the  land,  if  put  under  an  enlightened  system  of  tillage  ! 
The  ploughing,  performed  by  slaves  under  the  inspec- 
tion of  overseers  riding  about  the  fields  on  horseback, 
was  very  defective ;  for  it  seemed  scarcely  to  te.'vr  up 
the   soil,  and  left  large  pieces  altogether  untouched. 
As  the  train  passed,  the  negro  ploughmen  invariably 
stopped  in  their  labour  to  look  at,  and  speculate  on, 
the  phenomenon,  as  if  their  heart  was  not  in  their  work. 


l! 


270 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


and  they  took  every  opportunity  of  shirking  it.  From 
tlie  way  they  seemed  to  be  proceeding,  I  feel  pretty 
safe  in  averring,  that  two  ordinary  Scotch  ploughmen 
would  get  through  as  much  labour  in  a  day  as  any 
six  of  them,  and  do  the  work,  too,  in  a  greatly  superior 
maimer. 

In  the  course  of  the  journey,  a  number  of  passengers 
were  set  down  at  diflferent  stations,  leaving  so  few  in 
the  train,  that  at  length  another  gentleman  and  myself 
found  ourselves  alone  in  one  of  the  cars.  My  com- 
panion was  a  man  of  probably  forty  years  of  age,  stout 
made,  with  sandy  hair  and  whiskers,  and  had  I  seen 
him  in  England,  I  should  have  said  he  was  a  working- 
mechanic,  probably  a  stone-mason,  dressed  in  his  Sun- 
day clothes,  and  out  on  a  holiday.  I  am  particular  in 
referring  to  his  appearance,  in  order,  if  possible,  to 
tlu'ow  some  light  on  the  habits  in  which  he  very  freely 
indulged.  Apparently  engaged  in  deep  thought,  he 
continued  chewing  tobacco  mth  a  voracity  I  had  never 
seen  equalled,  and  which  provoked  such  an  incessant 
torrent  of  expectoration,  that  at  last  the  floor  around 
him  presented  a  most  unsightly  spectacle. 

I  think  travellers,  generally,  in  their  descriptions, 
exaggerate  the  chcAving  and  spitting  of  the  Americans. 
It  is,  in  reality,  only  here  and  there  you  meet  a  person 
who  abandons  himself  to  these  nauseous  practices, 
while  to  the  mass  of  the  more  respectable  people  in  the 
States,  they  are  probably  as  disagreeable  as  to  any 
weU-bred  European.  The  invectives,  however,  directed 
against  the  Americans  on  this  score,  dispose  me  to 
beheve  that  the  English  who  visit  the  United  States, 
and  pick  out  so  many  faults,  are  either  ignorant 
or  neglectful  of  the  manners  of  their  own  country. 
Among  the  less-instructed  classes  in  Great  Britain, 
spitting  in  the  streets,  and  other  places,  is  exceed- 
ingly common;,  and   since  young  gentlemen  betook 


RICHMOND,  IN  VIRGINIA.  271 

themselves  to  smoking  tobacco  in  common  clay-pipes 
the  vice  may  be  said  to  have  become  fashionable  in  the 
jumor  departments  of  high-life-at  anyrate,  we  do  not 
see  that  it  meets  with  pubUc  censure.  Now  if  it  be 
considered  that  in  the  United  States,  the  rise  from 
one  condition  of  life  to  another  is  astonishingly  rapid 
and  that  all  classes  travel  together  in  the  same  cars, 
and  live  together  in  the  same  hotels,  it  will  not  be 
dilbcnlt  to  understand  how  certain  obnoxious  practices 
should  obtrude  themselves  on  the  notice  of  the  more 
pohshed  class  of  travellers. 

The  train  arrived  at  Richmond  about  two  o'clock  in 
the  afternoon;  and  by  an  omnibus  in  attendance,  I  was 
transferred   to   a  hotel,  which   proved  to  be  no  way 
inferior  to   the   establishments   in   the   states   further 
north.     The   whole   of  the   waiters   were   negroes    in 
white   jackets;    but    among    the   female   domestics   I 
recogmsed  one  or  two  Irish  girls-the  sight  of  them 
helping  to  make  good  what  I  had  everywhere  heard 
f  f*!,l,f '°''*^  *^'^  ^"'^  dispossessing  the  coloured  races. 
At  WiUnrd's  Hotel,  in  Washington,  all  the  waiters,  as 
well  as  the  female  servants,  were  Irish;  and  here,  also, 
they  will  prolmbly  be  so  in  a  short  time. 

Situated  on  a  high  and  sloping  bank  on  the  left  side 
ol  the  James  River,  Richmond  is  much  less  regular  in 
outhne   than   the  greater  number  of  American  cities. 
Its   streets,   straggling  in   different   directions   on  no 
uniform  plan,    are   of  an   old-established  appearance, 
with  stores,  chiu-ches,  and  numerous  public  buildings 
Besides   the  principal  thoroughfares,  there  are  many 
narrow   streets   or  lanes    of   a    dismal,    half-deserted 
appearance,  generaUy  dirty,  and  seemingly  iU  drained 
and  ventilated.      Every^vhere,   the  number   of   black 
faces  is  considerable;  for  in  a  population  of  27  000 
as  many  as  9000  are  said  to  be  slaves.     The  dwellings 
occupied  by  the  lower  classes  of  coloured  people  are  of 


273 


TIIINOS  A8  THEY  AllK  IN  AMERICA. 


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a  rni8cral)lc  kind,  rosoniblinj?  the  worHt  l)rick-hou8C8  in 
tilt)  ))aek-liuu;M  of  l!]nji;lJ8li  inunulUcturiiif?  towns.  lu 
tho  u\)\)vv  ])M't  or  tho  city,  tlicic  nrc  sonic  rows  of  hnnd- 
sojnc  villas,  and  in  this  (inartcr  is  a  pnhlio  stpiaro,  with 
the  (^a]>itol,  or  seat  of  h'jjfishitnre.  in  a  central  and 
conspienons  situation.  Jn  walkinj,^  throu<;h  this  public 
cdilicc  towards  dusk,  I  o})8erved  that  it  was  {^niardcd  by 
an  armed  sentinel,  the  sij^ht  of  whom  had  almost  tlio 
startlin},'  ellcct  of  an  apparition;  for  it  ^vas  the  fu-st 
time  1  had  seen  a  Imyonet  in  the  United  States,  and 
mi}>:f;csted  the  unpleasant  relicction,  that  the  larj^c 
infusion  of  slaves  in  the  composition  of  society  was 
not  unattended  with  dauj^'cr. 

A  hue  view  is  obtained  from  the  front  of  the  Capitol, 
overlook iu}":  the  lower  part  of  the  city,  the  river  with 
its  falls,  and  the  country  in  the  distance.  The  falls  of 
the  James  River  appi^iu-  to  have  determined  the  situa- 
tion of  the  town.  These  falls  unitedly  amount  to  a 
descent  of  eij^hty  feet,  and  are  nnidc  available  for 
turnin«?  a  mnnber  of  large  mills  for  grinding  Hour,  and 
other  purposes.  'Vhc  occurrenc-e  of  such  falls  is  only 
Olio  of  a  series  of  similar  phcnonu^na  along  the  east 
coast  of  America,  where,  by  recessions  of  the  sea,  a 
terrace-range  crosses  the  rivers  at  a  less  or  greater 
distance  from  the  ocean,  causing  an  abrupt  descent, 
Avhioh  is  viUuable  as  a  water-power.  The  I'alls  of  the 
James  River  cease  in  front  of  the  city,  where  there 
are  several  rocky  and  woody  islets,  and  at  this  point 
two  long  wooden  bridges  afford  communication  with 
a  manufacturing  suburb  on  the  right  bank. 

Although,  in  many  respects,  inferior  in  point  of 
appearance  as  compared  Avith  the  smart  New-Jilngland 
cities,  Richmond  shewed  various  symptoms  cf  pros- 
perity and  progi'css.  A  species  of  dock  for  shipping 
was  in  process  of  excavation  adjoining  the  bridges,  and 
several   large  cotton -factories  werc   in   the   course  of 


mcIIMONI),  IN  VlncJINIA.  jjj 

erection,  I„  tl.0  »tr,.cta  i„  tl,i«  |„„cr  qunrtor  tl.ore 
W«B  .„,  active  trade  i„  the  ,„.cki„K  „„.,  J,  „,•  l^^ 
qu^ititu.  „.  „,„.„,  like  fiulcd  „cc,l»,  were  being  clrt  J 
to  tl,e  (.ictones  l.y  „c«„,™.  Tl.c  «,tt,m  n,„nn(„ctn™ 
»  caru.,1  „„  ,„  sevcml  lar^c  ..»tal.li„l„nc„l„,  „„,!  „iu 
«.<.n  be  cxt,.nd«l,  but  ,,ri„,,i|„i|lv,  1  w,u,  t.,1,1,  by  ,JZ 
«>  "ortbcn,  caintul,  ,u,d  the  en.ploymct  „f  1  i™.  „m"' 
la^ourc,.,  wh„.  f„r  .■u..t..ry  ,„„•,„,«.,  are  sai.l  to  bo 
preferubh;  to  pcrsonH  of  colour. 

Itidi.noud  is  known  u«  tl.o 'principal  market  for  tho 
«MI>1  y  <>t  slavcH  i'or  tho  Houth-a  circumstance  under! 
«oo(  to  on,.natc  in  the  fact  that  Virginia,  as  a  matter 
of  husbandry,  breeds   ucj,m'(.  htbourcrs  for  the  express 
PU'-POHO   or  sale,     llavin,    heanl   that   such    was'  to 
ca.^      >vas  n.tcrested  in  kn<,win,.  by  what  means  and 
at  u  hat  pnccs  shives  are  offered  to  purchasers.     Witli- 
out  mtro(h.ctions  of  any  kind,  1   was  throwu  on  mv 
own  resources  in   aciuirin^.  this  information.     Fortu- 
imtely,  lu.wever,  th,.re  was  no  in.pcdimcnt  to  encounter 
m    he  research.     The  exposure  of  ordinary  ^oZZ 
a  store  ,s  not  more  open  to  the  public  than  ^tre   tlic 
sales  of  slaves  .n  Richmond.     ]Jy  consulting,  the  local 
newspapers,   I  learned   that   the   sales   take   place  by 
auction  every  morninf?  in  the  ofllces  of  certain  brokers 
wlio,   as  I  understood  by  the   terms  of  their  advcr' 
tisements,   purchased  or  received    slaves   for   sale  on 
eomnnssion. 

Where  the  street  was  in  which  the  brokers  conducted 
their  business,  1  did  not  know;  ])ut  tho  discovery  was 
easily  made,  llamblins  down  tlie  main  street  in  the 
city,  I  found  that  the  subject  of  my  se ,  eh  was  a 
narrow  and  short  thorouf^^hfare,  turning  of!"  to  the 
left  and  tcrmmating  in  a  similar  cross  thoroufflifare 
J3oth  streets,  lined  with  brick-houses,  were  dull  and 
silent.  Ihere  was  not  a  person  to  whom  I  could 
put    a   question.      Looking    about,    I   observed    the 

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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

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274 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


office  of  a  commission-agent,  and  into  it  I  stepped. 
Conceive  the  idea  of  a  large  shop  with  two  windows, 
and  a  door  between;  no  shelving  or  counters  inside; 
the  interior  a  spacious,   dismal   apartment,   not  well 
swept;    the   only    furniture    a   desk   at    one    of  the 
windows,  and  a  bench  at  one  side  of  the  shop,  three 
feet  high,  with  two  steps  to  it  from  the  floor.     I  say 
conceive  the  idea  of  this  dismal-looking  place,  with 
nobody  in  it  but   three   negro    children,   who,   as   I 
entered,  were  playing  at  auctioning  each  other.     An 
mtensely  black  Uttle  negro,  of  four  or  five  years  of  age 
was  standing  on  the  bench,  or  block,  as  it  is  called' 
with  an  equaUy  black  girl,  about  a  year  younger,  by 
his  Side,  whom  he  was  pretending  to  seU  by  bids  to 
another  bk  k  child,  who  was  roUing  about  the  floor. 

My  appearance  did  not  interrupt  the  merriment 
The  little  auctioneer  continued  his  mimic  play,  and 
appeared  to  enjoy  the  joke  of  selling  the  girl,  who 
stood  demurely  by  his  side. 

'Fifty  doUa  for  de  gal— fi%  dolla— fi%  doUa— I 
seU  dis  here  fine  gal  for  fifty  dolla,^  was  uttered  with 
extraordmary  volubiKty  by  the  wooUy-headed  urchin, 
accompamed  with  appropriate  gestures,  in  imitation, 
doubtless,  of  the  scenes  he  had  seen  enacted  daily  on 
the  spot.  I  spoke  a  few  words  to  the  little  creatures, 
but  was  scarcely  understood;  and  the  fim  went  on  as 
if  I  had  not  been  present:  so  I  left  them,  happy  in 
rehearsing  what  was  likely  soon  to  be  their  own  fate. 

At  another  office  of  a  similar  character,  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  street,  I  was  more  successful. 
Here,  on  inquiry,  I  was  respectfuUy  informed  by  a 
person  m  attendance,  that  the  sale  would  take  place 
the  following  morning  at  half-past  nine  o'clock. 

Next  day,  I  set  out  accordingly,  after  breakfast,  for 

•  the  scene  of  operations,  in  which  there  ,ras  now  a  little 

more  ^ife.     Two  or  three  persons  were  lounging  about. 


RICHMOND,  IN  VIRGINIA.  gyg 

smoking  cigars;  and,  looking  along  the  street,  I 
observed  that  three  red  flags  were  projected  from  the 
doors  of  those  offices  in  which  sales  were  to  occur  On 
each  flag  was  pinned  a  piece  of  paper,  notifying  the 
artic.es  to  be  sold.  The  number  of  lots  was  notlreat. 
Un  the  first,  was  the  foUowing  announcement :—'  Will 
be  sold  this  morning,  at  half-past  nine  o'clock,  a  Man 
and  a  Boy.' 

It  was  already  the  appointed  hour;  but  as  no  com- 
pany had  assembled,  I  entered  and  took  a  seat  by  the 
fire.     The  office,  provided  with  a  few  deal-forms  and 
chairs    a  deok  at  one  of  the  windows,  and  a  block 
accessible  by  a  few  steps,  was  tenantless,  save  by  a 
gentleman  who  was  arranging  papers  at  the  desk,  and 
to  whom   I   had  addi'essed  myself  on    the   previous 
evemng.     Mmute  after  minute  passed,  and  still  nobody 
entered.      There  was  clearly  no   hurry  in  going  to 
busmess.     I  felt  almost  like  an  intruder,   and  had 
formed  the  resolution  of  departing,  in  order  to  look 
into  the  other  offices,  when  the  person  referred  to  left 
his  desk,  and  came  and  seated  himself  opposite  to  me 
at  the  fire. 

^You  are   an  EngHshman,'   said    he,   looking    me 
steadily  m  the  face ;  '  do  you  want  to  puichase  V 

'Yes,'  I  repHed,  a  am  an  EngUshman;  but  I  do 
not  mtend  to  pm-chase.  I  am  travelling  about  for 
information,  and  I  shaU  feel  obKged  by  your  letting 
me  know  the  prices  at  which  negro  servants  are  sold.' 

'I  wiU  do  so  with  much  pleasure,'  was  the  answer. 
Do  you  mean  field-hands  or  house-servants?' 
'AU    kinds,'  I  replied;  'I  wish   to    get    all    the 
information  I  can.' 

With  much  politeness,  the  gentleman  stepped  to  his 
desk,  and  began  to  draw  up  a  note  of  prices.  This, 
however,  seemed  to  require  careftQ  consideration;  and 
while  the  note  was  preparing,  a  lanky  person,  in  a 


1   !  I 


276 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


mde-awake  hat,  and  chewing  tobacco,  entered,  and 
took  the  chair  just  vacated.  He  had  scarcely  seated 
himself,  when,  on  looking  towards  the  door,  I  observed 
the  subjects  of  sale— the  man  and  boy  indicated  by 
the  paper  on  the  red  flag— enter  together,  and  quietly 
walk  to  a  form  at  the  back  of  the  shop,  whence,  as  the 
day  was  chilly,  they  edged  themselves  towards  the  fire, 
in  the  corner  where  I  was  seated.  I  was  now  between 
the  two  parties— the  white  man  on  the  right,  and  the 
old  and  young  negro  on  the  left— and  I  waited  to  see 
what  would  take  place. 

The  sight  of  the  negroes  at  once  attracted  the 
attention  of  Wide-awake.  Chewing  with  vigour,  he 
kept  keenly  eyeing  the  pair,  as  if  to  see  what  they  were 
good  for.  Under  this  searching  gaze,  the  man  and  boy 
were  a  Httle  abashed,  but  said  nothing.  Their  appear- 
ance had  little  of  the  repulsiveness  we  are  apt  to  asso- 
ciate with  the  idea  of  slaves.  They  were  dressed  in  a 
gray  woollen  coat,  pants,  and  waistcoat,  coloured  cotton 
neckcloths,  clean  shirts,  coarse  woollen  stockings,  and 
stout  shoes.  The  man  were  a  black  hat;  the  boy 
was  bareheaded.  Moved  by  a  sudden  impulse.  Wide- 
awake left  his  seat,  and  rounding  the  back  of  my  chair, 
began  to  grasp  at  the  man's  arms,  as  if  to  feel  their 
muscular  capacity.  He  then  examined  his  hands  and 
fingers;  and,  last  of  all,  told  him  to  open  his  mouth 
and  shew  his  teeth,  which  L^  did  in  a  submissive 
manner.  Having  finished  these  examinations.  Wide- 
awake resumed  his  seat,  and  chewed  on  in  silence  as 
before. 

I  thought  it  was  but  fair  that  I  should  now  have  my 
turn  of  investigation,  and  accordingly  asked  the  elder 
negro  what  was  his  age.  He  said  he  did  not  know.  I 
next  inquired  how  old  the  boy  was.  He  said  he  was 
seven  years  of  age.  On  asking  the  man  if  the  bov  was 
his  son,  he  said  he  was  not— he  was  his  cousin.    I  waa 


RICHMOND,  IN  VIRGINIA.  277 

going  into  other  particulars,  when  the  office-keeper 
approached,  and  handed  me  the  note  he  had  been  pre^ 
paring;  at  the  same  time  making  the  observation  that 
the  market  was  duU  at  present,  and  that  there  never 
could  be  a  more  favourable  opportunity  of  buying.  I 
thanked  him  for  the  trouble  which  he  had  taken;  and 
now  submit  a  copy  of  his  price-current  :— 


'  Best  Men,  18  to  25  years  old, 
Fair  do.         do.         do. 
Boys,  5  feet. 
Do.,    4  feet  8  inches, 
Do.,    4  feet  5  inches,    . 
Do.,    4  feet, 
Young  Women,    . 
Girls,  6  feet, 
Do.,    4  feet  9  inches,    . 
Do.,    4  feet,   . 

(Signed) 


1200  to  1300  dollars. 
950  to  1050      // 
850  to    950      // 
700  to    800 
600  to    600 
875  to    450 
800  to  1000 
750  to    850 
700  to    750 
850  to    452 


It 


Eichraond,  Virginia.' 

Leaving  this  document  for  future  consideration,  I 
pass  on  to  a  history  of  the  day's  proceedings.  It  was 
now  ten  minutes  to  ten  o'clock,  and  Wide-awake  and 
I  being  alike  tired  of  waiting,  we  went  off  in  quest 
of  sales  further  up  the  street.  Passing  the  second 
office,  in  which  also  nobody  was  to  be  seen,  we  were 
more  fortunate  at  the  third.  Here,  according  to 
the  announcement  on  the  paper  stuck  to  the  flag, 
there  were  to  be  sold  'A  woman  and  three  children;  a 
young  woman,  three  men,  a  middle-aged  woman,  and 
a  little  boy.'  Already  a  crowd  had  met,  composed,  I 
should  think,  of  persons  mostly  from  the  cotton-plant- 
ations of  the  south.  A  few  were  seated  near  a  fire 
on  the  right-hand  S7de,  and  others  stood  round  an  iron 
stove  in  the  middle  of  the  apartment.  The  whole  place 
had  a  dilapidated  appearance.  Fi'om  u  back-window, 
there  was  a  vie\r  into  a  ruinous  courtyard;  beyond 
which,  in  a  hollow,  accessible  by  a  side-lane,  stood  a 


■Wi 


!)!  i 


n 


!i;i! 


278 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


shabby  brick-house,  on  which  the  word  Jail  was 
inscribed  in  large  black  letters,  on  p  whi^e  ground.  I 
imagined  it  to  be  a  depot  for  the  reception  of  nr'groes. 

On  my  arrival,  and  while  making  these  preliminary 
observations,  the  lots  for  sale  had  not  made  their 
appeai'ance.  In  about  live  minutes  afterwards  they 
were  ushered  in,  one  after  the  other,  under  the  charge 
of  a  mulatto,  who  seemed  to  act  as  principal  assistant. 
I  saw  no  whips,  chains,  or  any  other  engine  of 
force.  Nor  did  such  appear  to  be  required.  All  the 
lots  took  their  seats  on  two  long  forms  near  the  stove ; 
none  shewed  any  sign  of  resistance;  nor  did  any  one 
utter  a  word.  Their  manner  was  that  of  perfect 
humility  and  resignation. 

As'  soon  as  aU  were  seated,  there  was  a  general 
examination  of  their  respective  merits,  by  feeling  their 
arms,  looking  into  their  mouths,  and  investigating  the 
quality  of  their  hands  and  fingers — this  last  being 
evidently  an  important  particular.  Yet  there  was  no 
abrupt  rudeness  in  making  these  examinations — ^no 
coarse  or  domitieering  language  T\as  employed.  The 
three  negro  men  were  dressed  in  the  usual  maimer — 
in  gray  woollen  clothing.  The  woman,  with  three 
children,  excited  my  peculiar  attenti^'^.  She  was  neatly 
attired,  with  a  coloured  handkerchiL^  bound  round  her 
head,  and  wore  a  white  apron  over  her  gown.  Her 
children  were  all  girls,  one  of  them  a  baby  at  the 
breast,  three  months  old,  and  the  others  two  and  three 
years  of  age  respectively,  rigged  out  with  clean  white 
pinafores.  There  was  not  a  tear  or  an  emotion  visible 
in  the  whole  party.  Everything  seemed  to  be  considered 
as  a  matter  of  course ;  and  the  change  of  owners  was 
possibly  looked  forward  to  with  as  much  indifference 
as  ordinary  hired  servants  anticipate  a  removal  from 
one  employer  to  another. 

While  intending  purchasers  were  proceeding  with 


RICHMOND^  IN  VIRGINIA. 


279 


Jail  was 
ground.  I 
f  nr'groes. 
preliminary 
made  their 
trards  the^ 
the  charge 
d  assistant. 

engine  of 
i.  AU  the 
f  the  stove ; 
lid  any  one 

of   perfect 

I  a  general 
eeling  their 
igating  the 
last  being 
ere  was  no 
lations — ^no 
oyed.  The 
L  maimer — 
with  three 
i  was  neatly 
.  round  her 
fown.  Her 
aby  at  the 
3  and  three 
clean  white 
»tion  visible 
}  considered 
3wners  was 
indifference 
noval  from 

eding  with 


personal  examinations  of  the  several  lots,  I  took  the 
liberty  of  putting  a  few  questions  to  the  mother  of  the 
children.     The  following  was  our  conversation : 

'Are  you  a  married  woman?' 

'  Yes,  sir.' 

'How  many  children  have  you  had?' 

'  Seven.' 

'Where  is  your  husband?' 

'  In  Madison  county.' 

'  When  did  you  part  from  him?' 

'  On  Wednesday — two  days  ago.' 

'Were  you  sorry  to  part  from  him?' 

'Yes,  sir/  she  replied  with  a  deep  sigh;  'my  heaii 
wa3  a'most  broke.' 

'  Why  is  your  master  selling  you  ? ' 

'  I  don't  know — ^he  wants  money  to  buy  some  land — 
suppose  he  sells  me  for  that.' 

There  might  not  be  a  word  of  truth  in  these  answers, 
for  I  had  no  means  of  testing  their  correctness;  but 
the  woman  seemed  to  speak  unreservedly,  and  I  am 
inclined  \,o  think  that  she  said  nothing  but  what,  if 
necessary,  could  be  substantiated.  I  spoke,  also,  to 
the  young  woman  who  was  seated  near  her.  She,  like 
the  others,  was  perfectly  black,  and  appeared  stout  and 
healthy,  of  which  some  of  the  persons  present  assured 
themselves  by  feeling  her  arms  and  ankles,  looking 
into  her  mouth,  and  causing  her  to  stand  up.  She 
told  me  she  had  several  brothers  and  sisters,  but 
did  not  know  where  they  were.  She  said  she  was  a 
house-servant,  and  would  be  glad  to  be  bought  by 
a  good  master — ^looldng  at  me,  as  if  I  should  not 
be  unacceptable. 

I  have  said  that  there  was  an  entire  absence  of 
emotion  in  the  party  of  men,  women,  and  children, 
thus  seated  preparatory  to  being  sold.  This  does  not 
correspond  with  the  ordinary  a3counts  of  slave-sales. 


hff^' 


W 


j    I 


I      i! 


'II' 
nil! 


II! 


;|t     I    < 


280 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


Which  are  represented  as  tearful  and  harrowing.     My 
belief  18,  that  none  of  the  parties  felt  deeply  on  the 
subject,  or  at  lea^t  that  any  distress  they  experienced 
^Bs  but  momentary-soon  passed  away,  and  was  for- 
gotten.     One  of  my  reasons  for  this  opinion  rests  on 
a  tnfling  incident  which  occurred.     While  waiting  for 
the  commencement  of  the  sale,  one  of  the  gentlemen 
present  amused  himself  with  a  pointer-dog,  which,  at 
comm^d,  stood  on  its  hind-legs,  and  took  pieces  of 
bread  from  his  pocket.     These  tricks  greatly  enter- 
tamed  the  row  of  negroes,  old  and  young;  and  the  poor 
woman,  whose  heart  three  minutes  before  was  almost 
broken,  now  laughed  as  heartily  as  any  one 

/Sale  is  going  to  commence-this  way,  gentlemen,^ 
cned  a  man  at  the  door  to  a  number  of  loiLgers  out- 
^Ae;  and  all  having  assembled,  the  mulatto  assistant 
led  the  woman  and  her  children  to  the  block,  which  he 
helped  her  to  mount.  There  she  stood  with  her  infant 
c-t  the  breast,  and  one  of  her  girls  at  each  side.  The 
auctioneer,  a  handsome,  gentlemanly  personage,  took 
his  place,  with  one  foot  on  an  old  deal-chaii-  with  a 
broken  back  and  the  other  raised  on  the  somewhat 
more  elevated  block.     It  was  a  striking  scene. 

Well,  gentlemen,'  began  th^  salesman,   'here  is  a 
capital   woman   and  her   three   children,  all   in  good 

nffpf  7m  K  1   "^  ^'^   '"^  ^""    ^^^^?     Give  me   an 

Tl  iinTfi^^  dollars-850  dollars  (speaking  very 
fast)--850  doUars.  Will  no  one  adva.ce' upon'thatT 
A    very    extraordinary   bargain,    gentlemen.     A    fine 

stp  o'f  the'bl  T\1'''\  ^™^^*^  ^--P  *1^^  '-' 
step  of  the  block;  takes  the  baby  from  the  woman's 

breast    and  holds  it   aloft  with  one  hand,  so  r  to 

shew  that  It  was  a  veritable  sucking-baby.)  '  That  w^l 

forSSOdir^^  f'^r^^'  ^"^  threi  Children,  aU 
for  850  dollars.     An  advance,  if  you  ple.se,  gentWn. 


RICH-  iND^  IN  VIRGINIA.  gSl 

(A  voice  bids  860.)  Thank  you,  sir— 860;  any  one 
bids  more?  (A  r.cond  voice  says,  870;  and  so  on 
the  bidding  goes  as  far  as  890  dollars,  when  it  stops.) 
That  won't  do,  gentlemen.  I  cannot  take  such  a 
low  price.  (After  a  pause,  addressing  the  mulatto) : 
She  niay  go  down.'  Down  from  the  block  the  woman 
and  her  children  were  therefore  conducted  by  the 
assistant,  and,  as  if  nothing  had  occurred,  they  calmlv 
resumed  their  seats  by  the  stove. 

The  next  lot  brought  forward  was  one  of  the  men 
The  mulatto  beckoning  to  him   with  his   hand    re- 
quested him  to  come  behind  a  canvas  screen,  of  two 
leaves,   which   was   standing    near   the    back-window. 
Ihe  man  placidly  rose,  and  having  been  placed  behind 
the  screen,  was  ordered  to  take  off  his  clothes,  which 
he   did  without   a   Tord    or    look    of   remonstrance. 
About  a  dozen  gentlemen  crowded  to  the  spot  while 
the  poor  feUow  was  stripping  himself,  and  as  soon  as 
he  stood  on  the  floor,  bare  from  top  to  toe,  a  most 
rigorous   scrutiny  of  his  person  was   instituted.     The 
clear  black  skin,  back  and  front,  was  viewed  aU  over 
for  sores  from  disease;   anc^  there  was  no  part  of  his 
body  left  unexamined.     The  man  was  told  to  open  and 
shut  his   hands,  asked  if  he  could  pick   cotton,  and 
every  tooth  in  his  head  was  scrupulously  looked   at. 
Ihe  investigation  being  at  an  end,  he  was  ordered  to 
dress  himself ;  and  having  done  so,  was  requested  to 
walk  to  the  block. 

The  ceremony  of  offering  him  for  competition  was 
gone  through  as  before,  but  no  one  would  bid  The 
other  two  men,  after  undergoing  similar  examinations 
behmd  the  screen,  were  also  put  up,  but  with  the  same 
result.  Nobody  would  bid  for  them,  and  they  were 
all  sent  back  to  their  seats.  It  seemed  as  if  the 
company  had  conspired  not  to  buy  anything  that  day. 
Probably  some  imperfections  had  been  detected  in  the 


S89 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


personal  qualities  of  the  negroes.  Be  this  as  it  may, 
the  auctioneer,  perhaps  a  little  out  of  temper  from 
his  want  of  success,  walked  off  to  his  desk,  and  the 
affair  was  so  far  at  an  end. 

'Tliis  way,  gentlemen— this  way!'  was  heard  from 
a  voice  outside,  and  the  company  immediately  hived 
off  to  the  second  establishment.  At  this  office  there 
was  a  young  woman,  and  also  a  man,  for  sale.  The 
woman  was  put  up  first  at  500  dollars;  and  possessing 
some  recommendaWe  qualities,  the  bidding  for  her 
was  run  as  high  as  710  doUars,  at  which  she  was 
knocked  down  to  a  purchaser.  The  man,  after  the 
customary  examination  behind  a  screen,  was  put  up 
at  700  dollars;  but  a  small  imperfection  having  been 
observed  in  his  person,  no  one  would  bid  for  him;  and 
he  was  ordered  down. 

'This  way,  gentlemen— this  way,  down  the  street, 
if  you  please!'  was  now  shouted  by  a  person  in  the 
employment  of  the  first  firm,  to  whose  office  aU  very 
willingly  adjourned— one  migratory  company,  it  will 
be  perceived,  serving  aU  the  slave-auctions  in  the  place. 
Mingling  in  the  crowd,  I  went  to  see  what  should  be 
the  fate  of  the  man  and  boy,  with  whom  I  had 
already  had  some  communication. 

There  the  pair,  the  two  cousins,  sat  by  the  fire, 
just  where  I  had  left  them  an  hour  ago.  The  boy  was 
put  up  first. 

'Come  along,  my  man— jump  up;  there's  a  good 
boy!'  said  one  of  the  partners,  a  bulky  an.^  respect- 
able-looking person,  with  a  gold  chain  and  bunch  of 
seals;  at  the  same  time  getting  on  the  block.  With 
alacrity  the  little  fellow  came  forward,  and,  mounting 
the  steps,  stood  by  his  side.  The  forms  in  front  were 
filled  by  the  company;  and  as  I  seated  myself,  I  found 
that  my  old  companion.  Wide-awake,  was  close  at  hand, 
still  chewing  and  spitting  at  a  great  rate. 


A. 

lis  as  it  may, 
temper  from 
Bsk,  and  the 

i  heard  from 
diately  hived 
3  oflBce  there 
)r  sale.  The 
id  possessing 
ing  for  her 
ich  she  was 
m,  after  the 
was  put  up 
having  been 
or  him;  and 

L  the  street, 
3rson  in  the 
ffice  all  very 
any,  it  will 
in  the  place. 
it  should  be 
Lom    I    had 

by  the  fire, 
rhe  boy  was 

•"e^s  a  good 
.n>.^  respect- 
d  bunch  of 
ock.  With 
l,  mounting 
front  were 
self,  I  found 
3se  at  hand. 


RICHMOND,  IN  VIRGINIA.  283 

'Now,  gentlemen,'  said  the  auctioneer,  putting  his 
*  hand  on  the  shoulder  of  the  boy,  'here  is  a  very  fine 
boy,  seven  years  of  age,  warranted  sound— what  do 
you  say  for  him  ?  I  put  him  up  at  500  doUars— 500 
doUars  (speaking  quick,  his  right  hand  raised  up, 
and  coming  down  on  the  open  palm  of  his  left)— 500 
dollars.  Any  one  say  more  than  500  dollars.  (560 
io  bid.)  560  doUars.  Nonsense !  Just  look  at  him. 
See  how  high  he  is.  (He  draws  the  lot  in  front  of  him, 
and  shews  that  the  little  felloVs  head  comes  up  to  his 
breast.)  You  see  he  is  a  fine,  tall,  healthy  boy.  Look 
at  his  hands.' 

Several  step  forward,  and  cause  the  boy  to  open  and 
shut  his  hands— the  flexibihty  of  the  small  fingers, 
black  on  the  one  side,  and  whitish  on  the  other,  being 
well  looked  to.  The  hands,  and  also  the  mouth,  having 
given  satisfaction,  an  advance  is  made  to  570,  then  to 
580  dollars. 

'  Gentlemen,  that  is  a  very  poor  price  for  a  boy  of 
this  size.  (Addressing  the  lot)  :  Go  down,  my  boy, 
and  shew  them  how  you  can  run.' 

The  boy,  seemingly  happy  to  do  as  he  was  bid, 
went  down  from  the  block,  and  ran  smartly  across 
the  floor  several  times;  the  eyes  of  every  one  in  the 
room  following  him. 

'  Now,  that  will  do.  Get  up  again.  (Boy  mounts 
the  block,  the  steps  being  rather  deep  for  his  short 
legs;  but  the  auctioneer  kindly  lends  him  a  hand.) 
Come,  gf-itlemen,  you  see  this  is  a  first-rate  lot. 
(590—600—610—620-630  dollars  are  bid.)  I  wiU 
seU  him  for  630  dollars.  (Right  hand  coming  down 
on  left.)  Last  call.  630  dollars  once— 630  dollars 
twice.     (A  pause ;  hand  sinks.)     Gone!' 

The  boy  having  descended,  the  man  was  desired  to 
come  forward;  and  after  the  usual  scrutiny  behind  a 
screen,  he  took  his  place  on  the  block. 


^f^^W, 


I         \v 


i  -I 


■111    t 


!  i 


III   ilMf 


884 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


'TV ell,  now,  gentlemen,'  said  the  auctioneer,  'here  is 
a  right  prime  lot.     Look  at  tliis  man ;  strong,  healthy, 
able-bodied ;  could  not  be  a  better  hand  for  field-work. 
He  can  drive  a  wagon,  or  anything.     Wliat  do  you 
say  for  him  ?     I  oflfer  the  man  at  the  low  price  of  800 
dollarsr— he  is  well  worth  1200  dollars.     Come,  make 
an  advance,  if  you  please.     800  dollars  said   for  the 
man   (a  bid),  thank  you;  810  dollars— 810  dollars— 
810  dollars  (severalbids)— 820— 830— 850— 860— going 
at  860— going.     Gentlemen,  this  is  far  below  his  value. 
A  strong-boned  man,  fit  for  any  kind  of  heavy  work. 
Just  take  a  look  at  him.     (Addressing  the  lot)  :  Walk 
down.     (Lot  dismounts,  and  walks  from  one  side   of 
the  shop  to  the  other.     When  about  to  reascend  the 
blockj  a  gentleman,  who  is  smoking  a  cigar,  examines 
his  mouth  and  his  fingers.     Lot  resumes  his  place.) 
Pray,  gentlemen,  be  quick  (continues  the  auctioneer) ; 
I  must   sell   him,   and   860  dollars  are  only  bid  for 
the  man — 860  dollars.     (A  fresh  run  of  bids  to  945 
dollars.)     945  dollars  once,  945  dollars  twice  (looking 
slowly  round,  to  see  if  all  were  done),   945   dollars, 
going — going  (hand  drops) — gone!' 

During  this  remarkable  scene,  I  sat  at  the  middle 
of  the  front  form,  with  my  note-book  in  my  hand,  in 
order  to  obtain  a  full  view  of  the  transaction.  So 
strange  was  the  spectacle.,  that  I  could  hardly  dispel 
the  notion  that  it  was  all  a  kind  of  dream;  and 
now  I  look  back  upon  the  afiair  as  by  far  the  most 
curious  I  ever  witnessed.  The  more  intelligent 
Virginians  will  sympathise  in  my  feelings  on  the 
occasion.  I  had  never  until  now  seen  human  beings 
sold;  the  thing  was  quite  new.  Two  men  are 
standing  on  an  elevated  bench,  one  white  and  the 
other  black.  The  white  man  is  auctioning  the  black 
man.  What  a  contrast  in  look  and  relative  position ! 
The  white  is  a  most  respectable-looking  person ;  so  far 


RICHMOND,  IN  VIRGINIA.  395 

as  cbcsB  is  concerned,  he  might  pass  for  a  clergyman 
or  ch^ch-warden.     IWe  he  stands-can  I  believe  my 

T    Z!\     \""'^^^  °^  ^^  Anglo-Saxon,  sawing  the 
air  wi  h  Ins   hana,  as  if  addressing  a  missiona^  or 
any  other   philanthropic   meeting    from    a    platform. 
Surely  that    gentlemanly  personage    cannot    imagine 
that  he  18  engaged  in   any  mortal  sin !     Beside   him 
18   a  man  with  a  black   skin,  and  clothed  in  rough 
garments.     His  looks   are   downcast   and   submissive. 
He  is  being  sold,  just  hke  a  horse  at  Tattersall's,  or 
a   picture    at    Christie    and    Manson^s-I    must    be 
under  some  illusion.     That  dark  object,  whom  I  have 
been  dways  taught  to  consider  a  man,  is  not  a  man. 
Irue   he  may  be  called  a  man  in  advertisements,  and 
by  the  mouth  of  auctioneers.     But  it  is  only  a  figure 
of  speech-a  term  of  convenience.     He  is  a  man  in 
one  sense,  and  not  in  another.     He  is  a  kind  of  man- 
stands  upnght  on  two  legs,  has  hands  to  work,  wears 
clothes,  can   cook  his  food   (a  point  not  reached  by 
monkeys  ,  has  the  command  of  speech,  and,  in  a  way, 
can  think  and  act  like  a  rational  creature-can  even 
be  taught  to  read.     But  nature   has  thought  fit   to 
give  him   a  black    skin,    and    that    teUs  very  badly 
against  him.     Perhaps,  also,  there  is  something  wrong 
with  Ins    craniological    development.      Being,    at    aU 
events,  so  much  of  a  man-genus  homo-h  it   quite 
fair  to  master  him,    and  seU   him,   exactly  as   suits 
your  convemence-you  being,  from  a  variety  of  fortu- 
nate cu-cumstances,   his    superior?      AU    this   passed 
through  my  mind  as  I  sat  or  the  front  form  in  the 

saleroom  of  Messrs ,  while  one  of  the  members 

of  that  well-known  firm  was  engaged  in  pursuing,  by 
the  laws  of  Virginia,  his  legitimate  calling. 

Such    were     a     forenoon's     experiences     in    the 
slave-market  of  Richmond.     Everything  is  described 


366 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


precisely  as  it  occurred,  witaout  passion  or  prejudice. 
It  would  not  have  been  difficult  to  be  sentimental  on 
a  subject  which  appeals  so  strongly  to  the  feelings ', 
but  I  have  preferred  telling  the  simple  truth.  In  a 
subsequent  chapter,  I  shall  endeavour  to  oflTer  some 
general  views  of  slavery  in  its  social  and  political 
relations. 


I  I'i' 


'    I 


3A. 

or  prejudice, 
ntimental  on 
the  feelings ; 
truth.  In  a 
0  offer  some 
and  political 


CHAPTER     XVII. 


CONGRESS. 

The  sales  of  slaves  in  Richmond  were  over  for  the 
day;  and  as  I  had  procured  the  information  for  which 
1  had  made  a  run  into  Virginia,  I  made  the  best  of 
my  way  back  to  Washington  by  raU  and  steamer. 
Among  my  feUow-passengerfe  were  a  number  of 
members  of  Congress,  pushing  onward  to  be  in  time 
tor  the  day  of  opening,  which  was  at  hand. 

In   the   course  of  Saturday  there   were   numerous 
arrivals ;  the  hotels,  smartened  up   after  a  long  dull 
season,  were  thronged  to  overflowing;   and  there  was 
an  air  of  business  in  the  usually  tranquil  thorough- 
fares     On  Sunday,  I  went  to  an  Episcopal  church- 
an  elegant  new  budding,  which  was  crowded  with  a 
highly  respectable  body  of  worshippers. 
.1.  ^f  *  "^°^""^g  ushered  in  an  important  day,  Monda^, 
the   5th   of  December,   appointed  for  the   assembling 
ot  Congress-great  excitement  in  the  hotel  parloui-s 
groups  eagerly  discussing  who  was  to  be  Speaker  of 
the  House  of  Representatives ;  who  was  to  be  appointed 
prmter  to  Congress  (a  thing  so  good  that  one  year  of 
It  IS  considered  te  be  enough) ;  and  other  matters  of 
consequence.      Rumours    cunningly   floated    about   to 
mislead    opponents    were,    as    usual,     seen    through, 
livery  one  was  on  the  alert,  and  ready  to  be  at  his 
post. 

At     half.past     eleven     o'clock,     I     walked     down 


; ,    .,ii, 


mi 


288 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


Pennsylvania  Avenue  with  a  friend,  who  kindly  under- 
took to  be  my  cicerone.     It  was  a  beautifully  clear  day 
rather   cold,  but  with  that  lightness   and   dryness  of 
atmosphere  which  is  peculiar  to  America.     Members 
were  proceeding,  singly,  in  pairs,  or  several  together 
towards  the  Capitol,  where  they  went  at  once  to  thei^ 
respective  seats.     There  was  no  crowding  in  the  streets 
to  witness  the  opening  of  Congress;  for  there  was  not 
a  bit  of  finery  or  pomp  about  the  whole   affair— no 
procession  of  President  and  his  court,  no  corps  diplo- 
matique, no  carriages,  no  trumpeters,  and  no  dragoons 
For  anything  that  could  be  seen,  the  Capitol  might 
be  supposed  to  be  a  church,  into  which  members  ^d 
spectators  were   composedly  pouring.     There  was   an 
entire  absence   of  pretension :    no  bribe  was  payable 
for  admission  to  the  galleries.     At  the  doors  of  our 
Houses   of   Parliament,   may  be    seen   a  number  of 
officials,  whom   it  is   usually   necessary  to   conciliate 
with  cash.     The  Americans  have  had  the  good  sense 
to   get  nd  of  these  pampered  lackeys.      My  friend 
and   I   walked    into    the    House    of   Representatives 
unchallenged,  and  placed  om-selves  in  a  recess  outside 
the  barrier  which  bounds  the  seats  of  the  members  ■ 
and    here   I  was    introduced    to    several    persons   of 
political  notonety. 

The  House  was  fuU.  Representatives  from  Cahfomia 
and  other  distant  states  were  afready  present-the 
whole  assemblage  forming  a  body  of  weU-dressed 
persons,  such  as  you  would  see  any  day  on  'Change. 
There  was  little  diversity  of  costume.  A  black  dress- 
coat,  black  satm  waistcoat,  and  black  stock,  constitute 
the  general  attire.-ready  for  court,  dinner,  baU,  public 
meeting,  or  anything.  A  few  wore  beards,  but  clean 
shavmg  was  the  rule.  Standing,  sitting,  lounging, 
talking,  according  to  fancy,  they  spent  the  time  till 
noon.       The  moment  the  hands  of  fbo  oU.u  _.:.,.  . 


CONGRESS. 


289 


twelve;  said  my  friend,  'business  will  commence'    A 

chair  of  the  Speaker,  kept  his  eye  fixed  on  a  clock 
over  the  doorway,  and  accordingly  rung  his  bell  when 
tne  hour  of  noon  was  indicated. 

Every  one  being  seated  and  in  order,  the  work  of 
the  session  commenced  by  the  calling  of  the  roU,  each 
member  answering  to  his  name.     The  vote  was  after- 
wards taken  for  Speaker,  when  much  the  larger  number 
having  named  Linn  Boyd  of  Kentucky,  that  gentleman 
was  conduc  ed  to  the  chair  amidst  general  plaudits. 
On  the  whole,  I  received  a  favourable  impression  of  the 
method  of  conducting  the  business  of  the  House  which 
was  simple  yet  efiective.      Judging,   however,  by  the 
accounts  given  in  the  newspapers  of  debates  on  ques- 
tions of  moment,  it  would  appear  that  very  impassioned 
scenes  occur,   and  that    at    such    times    language  is 
employed    which    would    shock,    and   would  not    be 
tolerated  in,   the  House  of  Commons.     At  the  same 
time,  I  am  told  that  petty  means  of  annoying  political 
opponents   while  speaking,  such   as   braying,    crowing 
like  a  cock,  and  so  forth,  have  not  obtained  a  footing 
m  America;  and  so  far  the  democracy  of  the  States 
has  an  advantage. 

The  Senate,  or  Upper  House,  opens  at  the  same 
hour  as  the  House  of  Representatives;  and,  before 
departure,  I  had  an  opportunity  also  of  noticing  some 
ot  Its  proceedings,  and  being  made  acquainted  with 
several  of  its  members—among  others,  tlie  Hon 
Charles  Sumner,  whose  eloquent  harangues  are 
well  known  in  England. 

The  plain,  business-like  way  in  which  legislatior  is 
conducted,  has  been  mentioned  in  disparagement  of 
Congress— a  thing  not  easy  to  understand.  In  Great 
Britain,  tradition  and  precedent  are  considered  to  be 

of  so    Tniinh    iTriTinrfoTinn     +l,-..4.    .  ■, . 

„^,,.^  .„^^^^^  j,^^^^  j^.j^„^^j.^..jjjgjj^g  altogether 
s 


280 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


new,  however  reasonable  in  the  abstract,  are  viewed 
with  extreme  suspicion,  and  can  with  the  ff^eatest 
difficulty  be  effected.  In  the  United  States,  "on  the 
contrary,  every  subject  may  be  said  to  stand  on  its 
own  merits,  and  is  legislated  for  accordingly.  The 
English,  for  example,  under  a  habitual  respect  for 
what  is  sanctioned  by  antiquity,  and  fearful  of  dis- 
turbing the  foundations  of  a  venerable  fabric,  admit 
of  extensions  in  the  representative  system  with  the 
utmost  reluctance;  while  the  Americans,  having  no 
antiquity  to  venerate,  no  traditionary  usages  to 
embarrass,  go  right  up  to  the  point,  and  organise  a 
code  of  representation  on  the  broadest  possible  prin- 
ciple. Whether  in  doing  so,  they  achieve  a  higher 
degifee  of  rational  liberty,  is  a  different  question.  What 
concerns  us  at  present,  is  the  mode  of  their  procedure. 
Right  or  wrong,  they  have  had  no  other  course  open 
to  them.  They  have  acted  imder  the  necessities  of 
their  condition. 

In  England,  there  has  always  existed  a  traditional 
authority-,  which,  from  time  to  time,  has  imparted 
privileges  to  the  people;  but  in  the  States,  starting 
at  the  revolution,  there  was  no  authority  to  impart 
ajiything.  The  monarchical  authority  was  expelled, 
and  power  was  vested  in  the  people  at  large.  Yet,  as 
a  fact  in  constitutional  history,  it  is  interesting  to 
know  that  the  Americans  at  this  crisis  in  their  affairs 
were  not  left  to  organise  a  government  out  of  chaos. 
The  British  monarchy  had  long  previously  estabUshed 
Houses  of  Assembly  in  its  thirteen  colonies,  and  by 
these  agencies,  it  will  be  remembered,  the  new  organ- 
isation was  tranquilly  moulded.  The  thirteen  states, 
therefore,  federally  united,  were  but  the  old  colonies, 
minus  their  English  governors,  and  plm  the  legislative 
independence  they  had  secured.  Besides  this  inherit- 
ance of  constituted  forms,  the  States  retained  the  laws 


CONGRESS. 


291 


necessities  of 


of  England  with  aU  the  ordinarjr  mmricipal  arrange 
ments;  and  to  tin,  day  the  stran^r  obaerv^t^t 
of  the  onginal  thirteen  states  possesses,  to  a  lesser  or 
»  extent,  the  impress  whict  was  'given    oTb; 

bZL°      }   '"""  P^'"""™**^  reports,    all    your 

the  Caprtol,  'we  know  what  you  are  about,  and  o,^ 
law-courts  constantly  quote  your  proeedure.'  oZ 
there  te  a  greater  compliment  paid  to  England,  which 

exert  a  parental  influence  over  her  chUdren?  Could 
Amenca  do  herself  more  honour  than  in  making  this 
handsome  acknowledgment? 

By  the  creation  out  of  wild  territory,  conquest,  and 
purchase,  the  Union,  at  the  time  of  my  v^it  to  fte 
pohbcal  metropolis,  comprehended  thirty-one  states 
and  the  mamier  in  which  these  are  represented  1^ 
Congress  may  be  alluded  to.    The  Senat^,  answerW  ■ 
to  our  House  of  Lords,  is  composed  of  t™  memS 
from  each  state,  irrespective  of  its  size  or  amo^t  S 
population ;    consequently,   the  number  is  sixty-two. 
These  senators  are  chosen  by  the  legislatures  of  the 
seve^  states  for  the  term  of  six  yfaxs.    One^hh^I 
retire  every  two  years,  by  which   means    a    degree 
of  permanency  is  imparted  to  the  institution.    The 
Vice-pr^ident  of  the  United  States  is  the  President 
of  the  Senate,  m  which  he  has  a  casting  vote;  in 
hM  absence,  a  temporary  president  is  elected  from  the 

The  House  of  Representatives  is  a  purely  popular 
assembly.  The  members  are  elected  every  L^^ 
by  the  people  of  the  several  states,  and  according  to 
a  rule  fixed  by  Act  of  Congress  in  1850.  By  this 
law,  th^number  of  representatives  is  established  at 


xuese  rcpreseDtatives  are  appointed  by  universal 


1     nil 


lilllll;! 


I  inn 


I ! 


pi ; 


i 

■ 

Mkai.   ' 

292  THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 

Buflfrage  among  free  citizens — the  poorest  as  well  as 
the  richest  having  a  vote.  The  number  of  voters  for 
each  representative  is  apportioned  to  each  elective 
district  every  ten  years;  the  number  is  determined 
by  the  simple  plan  of  dividing  the  whole  population 
by  233;  the  quotient  being,  therefore,  the  number 
apportioned.  In  the  event  of  a  state  being  admitted 
to  the  Union,  a  member  is  assigned  to  it  until  next 
decennial  period,  when  a  fresh  division  by  233  takes 
place.  Thus  to  the  ordinary  number  of  233,  one  is  at 
present  temporarily  added  for  California,  making  the 
actual  number  234.  Besides  these  members,  the 
House  compreherdt  a  delegate  frorn  each  of  several 
territories;  but  these,  though  allowed  to  speak  on  any 
subject,  do  not  vote.  The  recent  addition  of  Nebraska 
to  the  number  of  states,  will  make  some  change  in  this 
respect. 

In  appointing  senators  and  representatives,  whether 
to  Congress  or  to  the  legislatures  of  the  several 
states,  the  Americans  proceed  on  the  principle  of 
asking  no  public  service  for  nothing.  Every  member 
is  paid  from  public  funds  for  his  attendance.  For  a 
number  of  years,  the  rate  of  compensation  for  each 
member  of  the  Senate  and  House  of  Representatives 
has  been  eight  dollars  a  day  during  attendance  on 
Congress;  no  deduction  being  made  on  account  of 
sickness.  Each,  also,  receives  eight  dollars  for  every 
twenty  miles  of  travel  by  the  usual  road,  in  going 
to  or  returning  from  Washington.  The  Speaker  of 
the  House  of  Representatives  is  allowed  sixteen  dollars 
a  day. 

There  can  be  little  doubt  that  these  payments  are 
Bufificiently  tempting,  to  induce  needy  men  to  seek 
the  post  of  representative;  the  allowance,  however, 
is  altogether  inadequate  to  compensate  the  loss  which 

IC      -fVomKa-n+lTT      irioiT»»»»o/l       l-v-rr      o       i-i^/^l/->/^f      f\P       ■r>y^f'^r,^:^^^'l 


CONGRESS. 


203 


duties,  and  the  expense  of  Uving  several  months  from 
home.     As   an  additional   inducement  to  assume  the 
tunction  of  senator  or  representative,  the  members  of 
Congress  enjoy  a  large  franking  privilege.     They  may 
send   or  receive   letters   or  packets  free  by  post  not 
exceeding  two  ounces,   and  public    documents    three 
pounds,  m  weight.     Members  of  Congress  would  be 
more  than   human,   if  such  a  privilege  were  not  as 
greatly  abused  as  it  was  in  England,  when  franking 
was  tolerated  here.     One  of  the  more  apparent  results 
18  the  enormous  increase  of  matter  passing  through 
the  Post-office— so  great  as   sometimes  to  retard  the 
mails,   and   derange   the  transmission  of  letters    and 
newspap^^rs.     A  few  days  previous  to  the  meeting  of 
Congress,  I  found   the   lobbies   and  passages  of  the 
public  offices  in  Washington  encumbered  with  great 
loads  of  packages  of  printed  reports,  wliich  men  were 
preparing  for  the  approaching  demand.     Neatly  done 
up  in   buflP-tinted    covers,   these    packages,    piled    in 
huge  heaps,  attested  the  lavish  scale  on  which  public 
documents     are    printed    for    distribution,    and    the 
labour  to  be  incurred  in  inscribing  them  with  the 
magical    sjmhoh— Pub.    Doc,    and    signature    of    a 
member.     We    observe    by   a  newspaper,    that    this 
extraordinary^   system  of  franking  is  beginning  to   be 
seriously   challenged,   more   particularly   since  it  has 
been  proposed  to  raise  the  ordinary  charge  for  postage, 
in  order  to  meet  the   cost   of  cariying  so  much  free 
material.     A  characteristic  paragraph  on  the  subject  is 
subjoined.* 


*  1 


When  the  members  reach  Washington,  they  find  large  quantities  of 
documents  pnnted  and  enveloped  under  the  orders  of  tlie  preceding  session 
and  begin  franking  right  and  left.     Two  or  three  days  thereafter,  the  stage- 
routes  diverging  from  the  temporary  termini  of  the  railways,  especially  in 
the  west,  are  choked  up  by  a.medley  of  letters,  newspapers,  and  documents 
A  stage-driver  goes  for  the  mail,  and  finds  twice  as  much  ready  for  him  as 


i 


I  I 


i  !  :l        I  i 


fill!  i  I 


9M 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


With  an   extensive  and  clear  field  in  their  favour, 
and  no   embarrassment   from   antiquated   usages,   the 
United  States  have  been  able  to  accomplish  aims  for 
the  good  of  p.ociety  which   Great   Britain  has   found 
utterly    impracticable.       In     organising     systems     of 
national  education  at  the  public   expense,  the  several 
states   have,  for  example,  completely  outstripped  the 
old    country.     Yet   as,   in   this    respect,    monarchical 
Canada  is  quite  as  far  forward  as  the  States,  it  would 
be  an  error  to  suppose  that  repuljlicanism  is  the  cause 
of  the  remarkable  step  in   advance.     Candidly  consi- 
dered, it  will  be  seen  that  the  legislation  of  the  United 
Kmgdom,   when   obstructions   are   overcome    and    an 
inteUigent  public  feeling  fairly  roused,  is   abreast,   if 
not  ^head,  of  that  of  Congress.     I  would,  in  particular, 
call    attention    to    the    strides    in   advance  made   by 
England  as  regards  freedom  of  commercial  intercourse 

his  horses  can  possibly  draw.     So  he  picks  np  two  or  three  bags,  and  starts 
off  leaving  the  residue  to  a  more  convenient  season;  and  the  next  driver 
finds  a  still  larger  pile  awaiting  him,  and  treats  it  in  the  same  manner. 
Thus,  we  have  had  a  ton  of  our  weekly  paper  lying  at  one  time  at  some 
half-way  house  on  the  route,  and  our  disappointed  subscribers  writing  us  the 
most  unflattering  letters,  ordering  us  to  send  on  the  papers  they  had  paid  us 
for,  or  send  back  their  money.  ...   The  short  of  the  matter  is  this :  Congress 
IS  now  paying  some  half  a  million  of  dollars  a  year  out  of  the  Treasury  for 
printing  documents,  and  perhaps  a  million  more  for  their  transportation  and 
delivery  to  the  members'  favourite  constituents.     We  think  this  all  wrong 
-that  everything  should  pay  its  way-that  he  who  is  not  wUlmg  to  pay 
postage  on  his  documents,  does  not  really  want,  and  will  not  be  benefited  by 
them.^    Yet,  we  can  stand  the  abuse  as  it  is.     But  Mr  Olds  and  his  Fogy 
committee,  propose  in  effect  to  take  this  load  off  the  Treasuiy,  and  put  it  on  ' 
the  postage-payers.     Now,  we  tell  the  members  of  Congress,  that  this  won't 
go  do.-n-most  decidedly  not.     So  long  as  they  pay  the  shot  out  of  the 
Tre^ury-postage  as  well  as  printing-the  people  won't  mind  it;  but  from 
the  day  that  letters  are  made  to  pay  two  cents  each  extra  to  take  this  load 
off  the  Treasury,  there  will  be  a  low  muttering,  which  those  who  put  their 
ears  to  the  ground  may  hear;   and  the  members  from  the  free  states  who 
vote  in  favourof  the  change,  will  get  badly  scratched  whenever  they  are 
candidates  ag^n.     If  they  don't  believe  it  now,  they  will,  after  tiying  the 
expei-iment.'— iVew;  York  Tribune,  May  9,  1854.  J-    S      « 


CONGRESS. 


296 


and  navigation,  leaving  America  to  come  lagdnfflv 
behmd,  along  with  the  nations  for  whom  she,  pci?til 
caUy  speaking,  entertains  anything  but  respect  The 
people  of  the  United  States,  if  true  to  themselves 
and  the  principles  of  a  sound  political  economy,  ought 
not,  for  the  sake  of  special  interests,  to  have  been 
second  m  this  great  movement-will  they,  even  be 
second  ?  Need  I  add,  that  the  Americans  have  done 
themselves  no  honour  in  so  long  postponing  the  enact- 
ment  of  an  international  copyright  treaty-a  subject 
legislated  upon  years  ago  by  Great  Britain. 

1,  ^^J^^^  •'^''**'^''  °^  ''^^^P  P°'*^^>  *^e  States  have 
had  he  misfortune  to  be  imitators  of  England,  instead 
ot  taking  the  initiative ;  moreover,  with  the  full  know- 
ledge of  the   Post-office   organisation   of  the    United 
Kingdom,  and  possessing  an  overplus  revenue,  the  Ame- 
ricans have  strangely  failed  to  place  their  postal-system 
on  a  footing  so  perfect  as  it  might  be.     The  franking 
privilege,  accorded  not  only  to  members  of  Congress 
but    (restrictedly)   to  an  inferior  class  of  postmasters,' 
is  an  abuse  which  surprises  us  to  see  stUl  tolerated. 
More  remarkable  is  it  to  find  that  the  ordinary  rate 
of  prepaid  postage  of  three  cents  for  a  single  letter 
does   not  infer  delivery.     When  the   American    post 
undertakes  to    convey    letters    and    newspapers,    the 
service  extends  only  to  their  transmission  from  post- 
office  to  post-office.     For  their  delivery  at  the  house 
of  the  party  to  whom  they  are  addressed,  there  is  an 
additional  charge  of  one  or  two  cents.     It  is  an  ordinary 
custom  everywhere  in  the  States,  to  call  for  letters  or 
newspapers  at  the  post-office,  and  by  an  arrangement 
with  the  postmaster,  each  person  has  a  box  into  which 
his  correspondence  is  put.     In  New  York,  I  observed 
great  crowds  daily  at  the  post-office  seeking  for  letters. 
Let  this  monstrously  inconvenient  practice  be   com- 
pared with  the  plan  pursued  in  London,  of  sending  out 


290 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


i  \M 


four  or  five  times  a  day  a  host  of  carriers,  each  with 
his  bundle  of  letters  and  newspapers  for  delivery  at  the 
doors  of  the  parties  to  whom  they  ore  addressed,  with- 
out any  additional  charge.  An  Americar.  j?entlcman, 
who  had  been  some  time  in  London,  mentioned  to  mu 
that  nothing  surprised  and  delighted  him  so  much  as 
the  incessant  distribution  of  letters;  care  being  taken 
to  transfer  the  carriers  in  detachments  to  their  respec- 
tive beats  by  means  of  rapidly-driven  omnibuses. 
'  Youi-  government,'  said  he,  '  is  completely  ahead  of 
om's  in  this  respect.  We  could  not  do  better  than 
transfer  your  postal-system,  body  and  bones,  to  the 
States.' 

Legislation  in  these,   as   well  as   matters   of  more 
grave  concern,  is  of  course  rej^ulatcd  by  tlie  expression 
of  public  sentiment ;  but  in  no  country  is  it  more  diffi- 
cult than  in  America  to  ascertain  what  really  consti- 
tutes the  unprejudiced  feeling  of  the  community.     The 
States  ai«3  not  one,  but  many  nations,  united  by  a  com- 
mon interest,  but  differing  greatly  in  social  usages  and 
opmions.     Subjects  of  important  concern  are  viewed 
in  one  light  by  the  north,  and  in  another  by  the  south; 
just  as  it  might  be  expected  to  be  by  nations  in  the 
north  and  south  of  Europe.     Then  there  is  the  univer- 
sal division  of  society  into  Whigs  (answering  in  some 
degree  to  the  English  Tories  or  Conservatives),  and 
Democrats,   or    extreme    Republicans.     Beyond  these 
distinctions  of  genera  and  species,  there  is  an  indefinite 
number    of   varieties   and    sub-varieties— Free-soilers 
Hunkers,  Hards,  Softs,  Woolly-heads,  Doughfaces,  &e ' 
rather  puziding  to  the  uninitiated,  yet  of  practical  signi- 
ficance; foi-  I  observe  that  in  some  cases  of  examina- 
tions before  judicial  tribunals,  the  party  sobriquet  of 
witnesses  is  appended  to  their  names  in  the  published 
record  of  proceedings— as    if  credibility   of  evidence 
depended  on  political  opinion ! 


CONGRKSS. 


SOT 


s  in  some 


Party-spirit  is,  to  nil  appear  mcc,  the  soul  of  American 
soeiety — regulating'  and  controllinj^  cvcrythinj^.     What 
ai.y  man  says  or  docs  is  too  comiiionly  judged  by  the 
press  nceording  to  the  opinion  lie  entertains  on  political 
subjects.     I3ad  as  we  are  in  this  respect  in  England,  wo 
do   not   go   quite   this  length,  unless  when   sectarian 
interests  are  concerned — tlicre,  we  regret  to  say,  our 
so-called    religious    newspapers    ])08se88    the    worst 
features   of  the   least  respectable  American  joiu-nals. 
A  natural  consequence  of  the   fierticnicss   with  which 
persons  are  attacked  for  their  political  sentiments,  is 
an  indisposition  to  mingle  in  public  allairs.     I  was  told 
over  and  over  again  in  the  States,  by  peoj)l(;  of  sub- 
stance and  intelligence,  that  they  shrunk  from  ap[)ear- 
anee  in  public  affairs — would  have  nothing  to  do  with 
the  vulgar  wranglings  at  elections— left  things  to  go 
any  way.     This  can  liai'dly  l)e  considered  a  sound  state 
of  things,  for  it  amounts  to  delivering  up  the  counti-y  to 
the  most  noisy  and  viperish  of  the  population.     In  New 
York,  as  has  been  observed,  the  civic  government  has, 
from  this  cause,  been  practically  in  the  hands  of  the 
mob,  from  which,  however,  as  I  understood,  a  spasmodic 
effort  of  the  more   respectable   classes   was  about  to 
rescue  it. 

^Things  will  be  better  for  a  little  time,'  said  a 
gentleman  of  New  York,  speaking  to  me  on  this 
subject;  'but  they  will  soon  fall  back  to  their  former 
condition — ^the  most  noisy  «.tJ  calumnious  will  carry 
the  day.' 

We  arc  scarcely  entitled  to  make  this  a  special 
charge  against  the  democracy  of  the  States,  for  a 
similar  reluctance  to  take  part  in  political  movements 
is  observable  among  certain  classes  in  England ; 
and  such  must  ever  be  the  ease  until  the  world  is 
better  instructed,  and  knows  and  feels  that  in  consti- 
tutional ffovemments  the  frnnplnsn  i«   na  TYinnTi  o  flp+T 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 

as  a  privilege.  The  keen  party-spirit,  the  corrupt 
practices,  the  intimidation,  the  obloquy  cast  on 
opponents,  are  all  dwelt  upon  as  grievous  sins  in  the 
republican  elections  of  America— the  ballot  is  spoken 
of  as  a  sham.  True,  perhaps,  in  every  particular;  but 
after  recent  experiences,  can  any  Englishman  have  the 
conscience  to  hold  up  the  finger  of  scorn  on  account  of 
these  real  or  alleged  imperfections  ?  On  such  a  subject, 
the  fact  of  so  many  members  of  the  House  of  Commons 
being  convicted  of  bribery  and  corruption— and  ji'  so 
many  others  being  ordinarily  elected  through  the 
meanest  venal  influences— ought  at  least  to  make  us 
careful  how  we  utter  a  reproach. 

Whatever  be  the  faults  of  the  American  government, 
it  pannot  be  said  that  extravagance  is  one  of  them' 
The  Minister  of  the  Exchequer  is  not  called  on  to  devise 
schemes  of  taxation  to  make  the  two  ends  meet.     His 
only  difficulty  is  a  very  strange  one— it  is  what  to  do 
with  the  money  in  the  public  Treasury !     In  1853,  the 
entire  expenditure  of  the  government  of  the  United 
States  was  54,000,000,  and  its  receipts  were  61,000,000, 
of  dollars.     By  accumulated  balances,  there  was  at  the 
same  time  on  hand  the  sum  of  75,000,000  dollars;  and 
how  this  money  should  be  disposed  of  was  a  matter  of 
very  serious  concern.     To  be  sure,  there  was  a  debt  of 
65,000,000  dollars;   but  it  was  at  a  high  premium, 
and  by  a  sacrifice  it  could  easily  1.    -  been  discharged! 
Portions  of  the  debt  were,  indeed,  bcin^;  paid  off,  -hen 
opportunities  offered,  and  in  a  fe>v  ^ears  the  whole  will 
be   extinguished,  without  impairing  the  balance.     At 
present  a  variety  of  schemes  are  on  foot  for  disposing 
of  this  unfortunate  overplus.     All  intelligent  indivi- 
duals, of  course,  see  that  the  rational  mode  of  procedure 
is  to  abolish  certain  branches  of  revenue ;  and  so  bring 
the  draughts  down  to  the  necessary  outlay.    But  to  this 
there  are  objections  on  the  part  of  the  manufacturing 


i 


I  I 


A. 

the  corrupt 
iuy  cast  on 
)  sins  in  the 
lot  is  spoken 
Jticular;  but 
nan  have  the 
►n  account  of 
ich  a  subject, 

of  Commons 
ti — and  ji'  so 
through    the 

to  make  us 

government, 
ne  of  them. 
I  on  to  devise 
I  meet.  His 
J  what  to  do 
In  1853,  the 

the  United 
5  61,000,000, 
e  was  at  the 
dollars;  and 

a  matter  of 
as  a  debt  of 
h  premium, 
L  discharged, 
id  off,  \hen 
le  whole  will 
)alance.  At 
br  disposing 
?ent  indivi- 
of  procedure 
md  so  bring 

But  to  this 
mufacturing 


CONGRESS. 


209 


community.      The    federal     government     levies     20 
direct  taxes  on  the  people.     Its  revenue  is  principally 
from  custom-house  duties,  which  in  1853  amounted  to 
nearly  59,000,000  dollars.     Now,  these  duties  are  of  a 
protective  character.     They  tax  the  nation  at  large,  by 
an  aggravation  of  prices,  in  order  to  give  a  monopoly 
to    certain  branches   of   native  industry;     and  their 
removal  or  considerable  modification  would  be  equiva- 
lent to  free-trade,  which  the  public  mind,  jealous  of 
foreign  competition,  is  not  prepared  for.     Meanwhile, 
the    accumulating    cash   in   the  Treasury  presents  a 
dilemma  of  a  different  kind.     It  is  universaUy  felt  to 
be  a  source  of  corruption  and  danger.     Every  faction 
is  scheming  to  have  a  clutch  at  it.     As  a  spare  fund  at 
command,  it  may  ina'ice  some  rash  warlike   expedition, 
or  be  otherwise  employ  .^d  in  the;  undue  extension  of  the 
Union.     A  third  evil  connected  with  it,  is  the  gradual 
abstraction  of  money  from  circulation,  in  order  to  be 
locked  profitlessly  up  in  the  Treasury ;  thereby  starving 
commerce  of  its  proper  means  of  support.     So  that,  if 
things  go  on  as  they  are  doing,  the  cm-ious  conjuncture 
may  come  about,  of  aU   the  avaUable  money  in  thb 
country  finding  its  way  into  the  national  Exchequer, 
where  it  is  not  wanted,  and  trade,  accordingly,  being 
brought  to  a  stand.     Any  way  it  can  be  viewed,  the 
accumulation  is  considered  to  be  most  pernicious  in  its 
effects,  both  as  regards  administrative  policy  and  social 
wellbeing ;   and  the  gravest  politicians  admit  that,  in 
comparison  with  the  evils  of  the  present  system,  an 
annual  deficit  woidd  be  a  national  blessing.     After  all, 
there  would  seem  to  be  worse  things  than  a  National 
Debt! 

While  attending  the  opening  of  Congress,  it  was 
explained  to  me  that  much  was  done  in  the  way  of 
lobbying  and  %-ro//^/^^— phrases  unknown  in  England, 
though  the  thiners  sisrnified  are  bv  no  mt^t^-na  won+i^^. 


i    I 


300 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


By  lobbying,  is  meant  the  influence  exerted  privately 
on  members  by  interested  parties  hanging  about  the 
lobbies  of  the  Capitol;  and  it  is  said  jocularly,  that  in 
the  passing  of  bills  as  much  depends  on  the  activity  of 
members  for  the  lobby  as  on  the  real  representatives.  It 
seems  to  be  one  of  the  duties  of  these  lobbiers,  to  make 
such  compromises  among  parties  as  will  induce  them 
to  support  the  measures  of  each  other.  One  member, 
for  example,  wishing  to  carry  a  bill  for  a  grant  of 
public  land  towards  a  projected  railway,  and  another 
desiring  to  extend  slavery  into  a  new  state,  will,  by 
discreet  management,  be  induced  to  assist  each  other 
with  a  vote.  Such  is  log-rolling :  mutual  assistance  by 
a  compromise,  as  it  may  be,  of  principle. 

As  we  all  know,  splendid  examples  of  log-rolling  are 
of  daily  occurrence  in  the  House  of  Commons,  through 
the  agency  of  party  whippers-in;  and  neither  are  we 
altogether  deficient  in  a  practice,  equally  irregulu', 
which  the  Americans  describe  as  '  speaking  for  bunkum.' 
I  heard  of  some  interesting  cases  of  bunkum,  by  which 
is  signified  the  bringing  forward  of  a  sham  proposal, 
in  order  to  catch  popular  applause.  A  member,  for 
instance,  desirous  of  standing  well  with  his  constituents, 
makes  an  oratorical  display  in  favour  of  a  measure  in 
which  they  are  interested;  but  with  the  knoAvledgc 
that  such  a  measm'e  is  impracticable,  and  will  not  be 
carried.  In  fact,  he  does  not  want  to  cany  it;  the 
sole  object  of  the  orator  is  to  impose  on  his  supporters, 
and  acquire  the  character  of  a  meritorious  public  leader. 
I  Avas  told  that  in  one  of  the  state  legislatures,  a  bill 
for  the  Maine  Liquor  Law  Avas  proposed,  entirely  witli 
a  view  to  bunkum.  It  was,  indeed,  passed  by  the 
LoAver  House ;  all  the  members  aa  ho  voted  for  it  having 
dishonestly  throAvn  the  odium  of  rejection  on  the  Senate. 
The  Senate,  hoAvever,  seeing  through  the  tiick,  passed 

Lue   Dill   uiDu;    uiiu,    iiiuliij,    tiiu   guvuiiiui"   uyyciiwcu.    ilis 


(1. 


CONGRESS. 


301 


assent,  rendering  it  a  law— the  whole  thing,  from  first 
to  last,  being  a  piece  of  mutual  deception.     The  result 
was,  that  in  the   state  in  question,  the  law  became 
practicaUy  a  dead-letter.     That  such  actually  was  the 
occurrence,  I  am  unable  to  say  from  my  own  know- 
ledge;  yet  I  thinlc  the  circumstance  as  related  must 
possess  a  certain  degree  of  truth,  for  I  observe  by  a 
newspaper,    that    in    a    neighbouring    state,   where  a 
similar    law   has   just   been   enacted,   the   people   are 
recommended  ^o  organise  a  club  or  league  in  each 
township  and  city,  to  take  care  that  this  act  is  promptly 
and  thoroughly  enforced,'  because,  ^if  this  is  not  done, 
the  act  will  prove  only  a  sham  and  a  disgrace.'     Are 
we  to  understand  from  the  counsel  thus  given  by  the 
press,  that  the  enforcement  of  laws  is  to  depend  on 
popular  leagues   or   clubs?— a  doctrine  which  would 
argue  prodigious  weakness  in  the  ordinary  executive 
power. 

It  does  not  appear  that  the  President  of  the  United 
States  holds  any  personal  intercourse  with  Congress. 
As  has  been  shewn,  he  does  not,  at  least,  attend  at  the 
opening  of  the  session;  a  day  or  two  after  that  event, 
he  sends  his  Message,  a  voluminous  document,  to  be 
read  to  the  members.     To  one  accustomed  to  the  out- 
ward forms  of  respect  for  sovereigns  in  Europe,  the 
manrsr  in  which  the  President  and  his  measures  are 
sometimes  referred  to,  appears  to  be  inconsistent  with 
the  high  position  he  occupies.     Tlie  latest  American 
newspaper  which  has  come  to  hand,  gives  an  account 
of  his  being  burned  in   effigy,  on  the  ground  of  his 
connection  with  the  Nebraska  biU.     The  function  of 
the  President,  however,  is  more  analogous  to  that  of 
a  prime-minister  than   a  king.     He  is  a  responsible 
officer— only  the  first  magistrate  of  the  RepubKc.     The 
comparatively    small    salary    allowed    him    cannot  be 
expected  to  go  far  towards  keeping  up  the  paraphernalia 


!  l! 


!'!    ill 


I 


t'l 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


of  state.  It  amounts  to  only  25,000  dollars  (£5000) 
per  annum ;  and  as  the  President  is  appointed  for  only- 
four  years,  the  pecuniary  advantages  are  not  great. 
Perhaps  the  patronage  belonging  to  the  office  is  an 
object  of  no  iaconsiderable  importance.  According  to 
a  practice  now  of  some  standing,  it  is  usual  for  every 
new  President  to  dismiss  some  thousands  of  persons 
from  office,  and  to  appoint  his  own  supporters  in  their 
stead;  the  consequence  of  which  is,  that  a  large 
number  of  individuals  naturally  become  agitators  for 
a  presidential  change.  We  are  accustomed  in  England 
to  see  vacant  offices  filled  by  the  party  in  power,  on 
account  of  political  bias;  but  expulsion  is  unknown, 
unless  for  incompetency,  or  on  some  other  grounds 
equally  valid.  Should  the  projected  arrangement  be 
carried  into  effect,  of  appointing  persons  to  civil  offices 
only  after  they  have  imdergone  an  examination  as  to 
competency.  Great  Britain  wiU  have  made  a  signal 
step  forwai'd  in  administrative  policy,  eminently  worthy 
of  being  copied  in  the  United  States,  where  things,  in 
this  respect,  are  about  as  bad  as  they  can  possibly  be. 
The  present  President  being  a  Democrat,  and  democracy 
having  the  ascendant  in  Congress,  offices  are,  of  course, 
filled  with  Democrats,  greatly  to  the  chagrin  of  the 
Whigs,  .who  live  in  the  expectation  that,  by  a  happy 
turn  in  affairs,  their  time  of  office  is  coming.  All 
writers,  native  and  foreign,  deplore  this  most  mischievous 
custom  of  changing  the  ordinary  and  humble  officials 
of  government,  according  to  the  rise  and  fall  of  party ; 
and  it  undeniably  forms  one  of  the  worst  features  of 
the  American  state. 

At  Washington,  as  well  as  other  cities  I  visited, 
everybody  with  whom  I  had  the  honour  of  conversing 
on  public  matters,  spoke  with  respect  of  England,  and 
entertained  the  hope  that  nothing  would  ever  occur  to 


I   ; 


CONGRESS. 


808 


and  the  States;   and  such,  I  imagine,  to  be  a  very 
general  feeling  in  America,  notwithstanding  the  occa- 
sional remarks  of  a  contrary  nature  by  a  portion  of 
the  press.     I  need  hardly  say,  that  I  reciprocated  the 
sentiments    of  good-will  which  were    expressed,   and 
perhaps  was  not  thought  the  less  of  for  giving  it  as 
my  impression,  that  the  least  admirable  thing  about 
the  government  of  the  States  was  the  extreme  deference 
to  popular  clamour.    '  You  are,'  I  said,  '  great,  wealthy, 
and  with  a  boundless  field  of  well-doing;  your  public 
economy  is,  in  most  things,  worthy  of  all  praise;  but 
if  legislation  is  to  be  conducted  on  the  principle  of 
yielding  to  every  gale   of  popular  and  inconsiderate 
impulse— if  you  do  not  take  time  to  reflect  on  conse- 
quences—you may  be  impeUed  into  the  most  dangerous 
course  of  poHcy;  your  day  of  trouble  may  not  be  far 
distant.'     Late  events,  afterwards  to  be  aUuded  to,  do 
not  leave  these  hints  unjustified. 


hlli 


ji  I   i 


fhi 


CHAPTER     XVIII. 


PHILADELPHIA. 


Terminating  my  brief  visit  to  Washington,  I  made 
my  way  northwards  by  railway  through  Baltimore  to 
Philadelphia,  the  journey  occupying  little  more  than 
six  hours.  Writing  now  after  an  interval  of  several 
moi^ths,  I  throw  my  mind  back  to  the  very  delightful 
residence  of  a  few  days  which  it  was  my  fortune  to 
enjoy  in  the  city  of  Brotherly  Love.  My  quarters 
were  at  the  Girard  House,  a  hotel  in  Chestnut  Street 
of  the  first  class ;  but  so  m  .-h  of  my  time  was  engaged 
in  maldng  calls,  sceuig  si^  its,  and  picking  up  scraps 
of  information,  that  my  stay  was  a  perpetual  change 
of  scene  and  circumstances. 

When  William  Penn  fixed  on  the  spacious  peninsula 
between  the  Delaware  on  the  east,  and  tlie  Schuylkill 
on  the  west,  for  the  site  of  a  large  city,  he  may  be  said 
to  have  selected  one  of  the  most  charming  and  con- 
venient spots  on  the  whole  coast  of  America.  Approach- 
able from  the  sea  by  the  Delaware,  the  land,  with  a 
gentle  yet  sufficient  rise  from  tlic  water,  was  originally 
a  fertile  plain,  dotted  over  with  trees,  and  inhabited 
only  by  a  few  Indians.  Such  was  the  sylvan  scene  on 
which  the  first  English  settlers  made  their  appearance 
in  1681,  and  began  the  reclamation  of  the  wilderness. 
What  do  we  now  see  after  a  period  of  a  hundred 
and  seventy-three  years  ?— A  city,  the  second  in  point 
of   size   in.  the   United   States — second,   liowcver    to 


!IIP  I 


PHILADELPHIA. 


806 


none   m    beauty,    regularity,    and    aU    the    blessings 
attending  on   good   order   and   intelUgence.     We  are 
called  on    so   frequently   to  note  the  rapid  progress 
of  Amencan   cities,   that  the  subject  ceases  to  excite 
surprise.      There   is   something,   however,   more   than 
usually  wonderful  in  the  growth  of  Philadelphia.     At 
about  the  time  of  the  Revolution,  when  the  English 
abandoned    it,     the     number     of   inhabitants,    army 
mcluded,   was   only   21,000;    so   that  when  FrankUn 
was  at  the  zenith  of  his   glory  as  a  philosopher  and 
statesman,  the  city  of  his  adoption  was  in  reality  but 
a  comparatively  small  place.    Since  that  not  distant  era, 
the  population  has  mounted  to  nearly,  if  not  beyond' 
500,000;  and  to  all  appearance  it  is  destined  to  equal 
that  of  New  York.      That  Philadelphia  may,  indeed, 
be   soon  the   first   of  American  cities,  would  not  be 
astonishing;  for  it  possesses  the  advantage  of  being 
now,  since  railway  communication  was  opened,  on  the 
speediest  route  from  the  Atlantic   to  the   Ohio   and 
Mississippi,  and  of  having  ample  room  to  expand  in 
its  dimensions,  which  New  York  unfortunately  has  not. 
Every  one  has  heard  of  the  plainness  of  Philadelphia. 
According  to  ordinary  notions,  it  is  a  plain  brick  town, 
with  straight  lines  of  street  crossing  each  other  at  right 
angles,  and  altogether  as  dull  and  monotonous  as  its 
Quaker  founders  could  have   desired.     In  this,  as  in 
many  things,  the  fancy  dresses  up  a  picture  which  is 
dispeUed  by  actual  observation.     So  far  from  being  a 
dull   or   dismal    town,    Philadelphia  is  found  to  be  a 
remarkably  animated  city,  with  streets  crowded  with  as 
fashionable  a  set  of  people  as  you  could  wish  to  see,  and 
displaying  a  greater  number  of  private  carriages  than 
are  paraded  in  any  other  part  of  America.      It  may 
be  allowed  that  the  scheme  of  long  and  straight  rows  of 
kick  building^s,^with  scarcely  any  variation  in  shape,  is 
""*  .--x.^i     1    .      severe  regularity  in  this  respect 


T 


.t* 


'  tmmm»iitmja,tmimimmiiu,.id^. 


306 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


is  better  than  no  plan  at  all,  with  the  consequent  con- 
fusion of  streets,  lanes,  and  mysterious  back-courts  with 
which  such  cities  as  London  are  afflicted.  As  a  relief 
to  the  monotony  of  Pliiladelphia,  the  houses  are  con- 
structed of  a  species  of  brick  so  smooth  and  fine,  and 
so  neatly  laid,  that  aU  other  brick-built  cities  siak  in 
comparison.  Then,  let  it  be  understood,  that  the 
basement  story  of  many  of  the  houses,  the  architraves, 
and  nearly  all  the  flights  of  steps  to  the  doors,  are 
of  pure  white  marble.  Next,  take  into  account  the 
punctiliously  clean  windows  of  plate-glass — the  broad 
granite  pavements — the  well-swept,  I  might  almost  say 
washed,  streets — the  rows  of  leafy  trees  for  shadowing 
the  foot-passengers — ^the  air  of  neatness  generally 
prevailing — and  you  have  a  tolerable  idea  of  the  capital 
of  Pennsylvania. 

Going  into  particulars,  many  other  things  strike  the 
stranger.  Latterly,  the  taste  of  the  inhabitants  has 
overleaped  the  primitive  architectural  design,  and  begun 
to  substitute  magnificent  buildings  of  marble  and  red 
sandstone  for  those  of  brick.  The  ordinary  height  is 
also  here  and  there  exceeded;  and  now  a  pleasing 
variety  takes  the  place  of  the  ancient  and  much- 
complained  of  uniformity.  Similar  changes  are  observ- 
able in  the  naming  of  streets;  although,  all  things 
considered,  the  old  plan  is  perhaps  the  best.  It  con- 
sisted in  distinguishing  all  the  streets  running  one  way 
according  to  numbers,  as  First,  Second,  Third  Street, 
and  so  on ;  and  naming  all  those  which  proceeded  in  a 
cross  direction,  after  trees,  as  Chestnut,  Mulberry,  Spruce 
Street,  &c.  The  old  names,  as  far  as  they  went,  are 
happily  preserved.  Running  right  across  the  town,  from 
the  Delaware  to  the  Schuylldll,  is  Chestnut  Street,  the 
main  or  fashionable  thoroughfare ;  and  near  its  centre, 
comprehending  a  space  from  First  to  Fourth  Street, 
IB  the   chief  seat   of  business  oDerations*      Suddenly 


S'nflflp'niv 


PHILADELPHIA. 

put  down  hereabouts,  the  English  stranger  would  h. 
surprised  at  the  traffic  which   seems   to  preTa^    t^" 

amve  at  the  Delaware,  which  is  faced  by  a  long  aZJ 
l.ke  street,  with  a  frontage  of  wooden  wharfs  iXn^ 
into  the  water;  and  here,  as  far  as  the  eye  can'T^^ 
nothmg  .3  seen  but  the  masts  and  cordage  ofveS' 
he  puffing  of  steamers  arriving  and  departng  a'd  he 
strugglmg  of  draymen,  porters,  and  sailors  ^taldt 

^rre'e^t^l'"'""^  ^"'  """^"^"^  '^^^^^^^^'oZ 
merce.     At  the  upper  extremity  of  the  ouav  iha  .i.i 

m»t  of  coal,  brought  down  by'railwS  frTm  «t  ^^ 
Pennsylvaman  coal-fields,  seems  to  be  eondueted  on  so 
large  a  ^ale,  that  a  Northumbrian  might  be  decked 
mto  the  Idea  that  he  was  on  the  banks  of  the  Ce 

Renewed  and  improved  in  various  wavs,  Philadelnhia 
hews  few  architectural  relics  of  its  early  history      We 
ee  nothmg  of  any  edifice  in  which  Franklin  I'sided 
and  neither  untU  the  time  of  my  visit,  had  any  pubUe 
monument  been  erected  to  his  memory,  which,  howeve^ 
-  preserved  in  connection  with  various  in  tiS  ' 
Ue  most  remarkable  building,  dating  from  the  pre.' 
revolutionary  period,  is  the  old  State-house    situated 
a  short  way  back  from  the  line  of  thor^^WarTl^ 
Chestnut  Street,  so  as  to  form  a  kind  of  sm.are     K 
IS  a  respectable,  old-fashioned  looking  brick  structure 

pa^lvJ  /  -^""f  "'"'  "PP^^  ^"»7,  with  a  s^S 
pari^ly  of  wood  rismg  from  the  centre,  and  a  wing  added 

Z  m4  Tff  .''f  ^^■«-'7'^«''  --  erected  I,  trij 
rJmbL  ^/'^'^  aecommodation  for  the  congressional 
assemblies  of  tne  Kevolutioa;  and  it  was  here,  in  the 


i 


808 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


large  apartment  on  the  left-hand  side  of  the  doorway, 
that  the  famed  Declaration  of  Independence  was  signed. 
At  present,  the  apartment,  which  is  unfurnished,  seems 
to  be  reserved  as  a  sacred  show-place  for  strangers.  It 
contains  a  few  relics  of  antiquarian  interest;  one  of 
these  being  the  bell  which,  at  about  two  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon  of  the  4th  of  Jidy  1776,  sounded  a  peal  from 
the  spire  above,  to  announce  that  the  Declaration  had 
been  subscribed.  Having  been  subsequently  fractured, 
it  is  now  laid  aside  here  as  an  object  of  ciu'iosity.  The 
other  apartments  of  the  old  State-house  are  occupied 
chiefly  as  courts  of  justice ;  for  Pliiladelphia,  although 
the  principal  city  of  Pennsylvania,  is  not  honoiu'ed  by 
being  made  the  place  of  meeting  of  the  state  legislature. 
That  dignity,  according  to  the  usual  American  plan  of 
huddling  away  the  business  of  legislation  into  retired 
nooks,  has,  since  1813,  belonged  to  the  small  town  of 
Harrisburg,  a  hundred  miles  distant,  on  the  Susquehanna 
river. 

Behind  the  old  State-house  is  an  enclosed  space  with 
rows  of  trees;  no  doubt  an  agreeable  summer-lounge 
to  the  Hancocks,  Washingtons,  and  Franklins  of  revo- 
lutionary memory.  Adjacent  to  the  ftirther  extremity 
of  the  enclosure,  is  one  of  the  few  squares  in  the  city, 
forming  a  lawn,  with  walks  and  seats,  and  prettily 
ornamented  with  trees.  Od  visiting  this  spot,  which  is 
open  to  the  public,  I  was  amused  by  observing  the  tame- 
ness  of  a  number  of  gi-ay  squirrels,  which  at  call  came 
down  from  their  nests  in  the  trees,  and  were  fed  by  the 
children  who  were  playing  about  the  grass.  It  was 
pleasing  to  learn  that  these  little  animals  did  not  suflFer 
any  injury  from  the  youthful  visitors  of  the  square,  and 
that  care  was  taken  of  them  by  the  public.  How  much 
good,  I  thought,  might  be  done,  by  thus  accustoming 
children  to  look  kindly  on  the  creatures  which  God  has 
committed  to  our  general  resrard  and  boimtv  ! 


PHILADELPHIA.  g^g 

Few    Cities    are   so   well    provided    with   water   as 
Philadelphia.     Beyond  the  environs  on  the  west    the 

Thames,  is  dammed  up  and  thro^vn  baek  into  a 
capaeious  pool,  whence  the  water  is  led  away  and 
pumped  by  powerftd  wheels  into  a  resen.ir,  nearfy 
100  feet  h.gh.  By  these  means,  1,500,000  gaUons  of 
water  are   raised  every   twenty-four  h^urs,  !nd   sup 

everv  f  "^  TT   ''  *^'   "'^  ^   ^^^^   provision,  th!t 
every  family  has  an    ample   command  of  this   prime 
necessaiy  of  life.     The  water-works  on  the  SchuyM 
form   a  favounte  resort   for  the    inhabitants   of   the 
city.      The  scene   at   the   spot  where   the   river   falls 
over  the  bamer  forming  the  dam,  is  veiy  charmi^ 
Immediately  beneath,   a  handsome  suspelion-brg^e 
has  lately   been  erected,  by  which   access  is   readily 
obtained  to  the  opposite  banks.  ^ 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  these  hydrauUc-works    is 
SI  uated  the  celebrated  Eastern  PeniLtiary  7pL 
sylvama,  which,  originating  in   the   efforts   of  a  few 
humane  mdividuals  interested  in  the  subject  of  penal 
disciphne,   has    formed   a   model    for   the    svstem   of 
pnsons  now  authorised    in    Great    Britain.*   Having 
visited  pretty  nearly  all  the  large  prisons  in  Germany! 
l^ance,   and  England,   I  felt  a  degree   of  interest  in 
companng  their  arrangements  with  those  in  operation 
m  this  American  institution.     The  plan  adopted  is  that 
o±  the  separate  system,  as  it  is  caUed,  but  with  con- 
siderable modifications.    About  eleven  acres  of  ground 
are  suxromided  by  a  wall  thirty  feet  high,  with  battle- 
mented  tm-rets;  and  in  the  middle  of  the  enclosure  is 
the  pnson,  designed  on  the  principle  of  corridors  radiat- 
ing from  a  central  point.     The  cells  open  from,  and  are 
ranged  along,  the  corridors,  in  the  usual  manner,  each 
containuig  a  convict,  who,  from  entry  to  dismissal,  lives 
and  works  in  his  cell,  and  is  allowed  no  communication 


810 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


[■-f 


with  other  prisoners.      In  England,   it  is   cistomary 
to  permit  the  prisoners  to  have  outdoor  exercise  at  cer- 
tain hours  in  courtyards.     Here,  a  more  humane  ond 
reasonable  practice  is  followed.     Each  cell  is  provided 
with  a  small  courtyard,  into  which  the  unhappy  inmate 
may,  during  the  day,  step  at  pleasure.     The  door  into 
this  little  airing-ground  is  at  the  2nd  of  the  cell  opposite 
the  door,  and  according  to  taste,  is  laid  out  partly  as 
a  parterre  of  flowers,  in  the  cultivation  of  which  the 
prisoner  may  relieve  the  Avretchedness  of  his  confine- 
ment.    In  several  instances,  on  entering  the  cells,  I 
found  the  inmates  in  then*  courtyards  reading  in  the 
sunshine,  wliich  stole  over  the  top  of  the  high  hound- 
ing-walls;   and  I  thought,  that  this  open  communing 
with  ,nature  must  have  in  it  something  soothing  and 
improving   to   the   feelings.      Hand-weaving   at   small 
looms,    and  shoemaking,   seemed  the  principal    crafts 
pursued  by  the  prisoners.     In  one  of  the  cells,  occupied 
by  a  shoemaker,  there  was  a  pair  of  pigeons,  which  sat 
meekly  on  the  edge  of  a  pail  by  the  man's  side;   and 
on  questioning  him  respecting  these  animals,  he  said  he 
prized  them  as  companions.     'They  do  me  good,'  he 
said,  '  when  I  look  at  them :  their  cooing  cheers  me  when 
I  am  alone.'      I  was  glad  that  the  prison  authorities 
allowed  the  unfortunate  man  this  simple  pleasure.     But 
it  seems  to  be  one  of  the  aims  of  the  directors  of  the 
institution,  to  neglect  no  means  of  operating  on  the 
moral  sentiments  of  the  prisoners.     Though  styled  the 
separate  system,   the  disciphne   admits  of  the  freest 
intercourse  with  respectable  visitors.     The  best  people 
in  Philadelphia  call  upon,  and  hold  converse  with  the 
convicts,  who  doubtless  receive  no  small  benefit  through 
such  agencies. 

The  last  cell  I  Adsited  was  double  the  size  of  the 
others,  and  occupied  by  a  man  who  was  busily  engaged 
at  a  bench,  making  chairs  with  carpentry  tools.     On  our 


PHILADELPHIA. 


811 


entry,  he  did  not  look  up,  but  continued  at  his  employ- 
ment He  was  a  stcut-madc  young  man,  probably  not 
more  than  thirty  years  of  age,  with  a  good-humoured 
expression  of  countenanee,  and  was  dressed  in  a  linen 
blouse,  confined  round  the  waist.  A  more  unlikely 
person  for  a  criminal  could  hardly  be  imagined.  After 
Mr  '^*^°^"^*°^  observations,  I  inquired  the  nature 
of  the  offence  for  which  he  was  committed.  His  answer 
was  the  single  and  startling  word—'  Murder '' 

afflug"  "'^   '^"  '^'''   '   ^^'^'-      His  reply  was 
a  kiUed  my  wife;  but  it  was  in  self-defence.     She 
was  a  bad  woman;  she  had  been  drinking  with  some 
men  m  my  own  house,  and  when  I  returned  home  after 
a  short  absence,  she  ran  at  me  with  an  axe.     I  saved 
myself  by  holding  out  my  razor,  which  happened  to  be 
m  my  pocket  at  the  time;  it  unfortunately  struck  upon 
her  neck,  and  she  bled  to   death.     I  was  tried,  and 
condemned  to  twelve  years'  imprisonment.'     Such  was 
the  man's  story;  and  if  true  in  all  particulars,  it  seems 
to  infer  scant  justice  in  the  tribunals.     On  looking 
about,  I  observed  a  child's  chest  of  drawers,  which  the 
prisoner  said  he  had  made  for  his  daughter,  who  came 
at  times  to  see  him,  and  whose  visits  afforded  him  the 
only  gleam  of  happiness  in  his  lot.     I  could  not  but  feel 
deeply  interested  in  this  individual;  and  I  ventured  to 
throw  out  the  hope,  that  by  good  conduct  he  might  by 
and  by  obtain  a  remission  of  his  sentence.      On  the 
whole,  after  making  a  survey  of  the  prison,  and  hearing 
explanations  respecting  its  arrangements,  I  was  more 
favourably  impressed  with  the  genial  system  pursued, 
than   with    the    comparatively   arid    discipline   which 
prevails  in   our    penitentiaries.     Besides  this   general 
receptacle  for  criminals,  there  are  two  houses  of  refuge 
for  juvenile  vagrants  and  offenders  in  Philadelphia— one 
vvii.bv,  ^vUvL  daounci  iwi  v;uiuiucu  mraates ;  for  even  in 


813 


THINGS  A3  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


ii 


crime  and  suffering,  colour  asserts  a  distinction  here  as 
elsewhere  in  the  States. 

The  humane  system  of  prison-disciplin?  introduced 
into  Pliiladelphia,  seems  to  be  appropriate  in  a  city 
founded  by  a  body  of  religionists  whose  aim  has  always 
been  that  of  practical  benevolence.  Begun  by  Friends, 
this  sect  has  left  its  impress  on  the  public  institutions, 
,  and  also  the  usages  of  the  inhabitants,  but  has  long 
since  dwindled  do^vn  to  be  one  of  the  least  noticeable 
religious  bodies  in  the  city,  and  in  the  present  day,  the 
number  of  persons  dressed  as  Quakers  in  the  streets  is 
in  no  way  conspicuous. 

The  public  buildings  of  Philadelphia— such  as  banks, 
hospitals,  churches,  theatres,  and  other  establishments, 
including  a  Merchants'  Exchange— are  of  a  more  than 
usually  elegant  style  of  architecture;  and  it  seemed  as 
if  in  no  city  in  the  union  was  greater  progress  making 
than  in  this  department  of  the  arts.     One  of  the  more 
stately  of  these  public  edifices  is  the  Girard  Bank,  in 
Thii-d  Street,   once  occupied  by  Stephen  Girard,  and 
where    that    remarkable    person    amassed    the    large 
fortune  which,  at  his  death,  was  bequeathed  to  the  city 
for   the   support   of  an   institution  for   oi-phans,   and 
other  purposes.     The  Girard  College,  founded  by  this 
appropriation,   and  now   occupied    as    an  educational 
hospital  for   children,   is  situated  at  a  short  distance 
from  the  town  on  a  high  ground,  towards  the  Schuyl- 
kill,  and  is  by  far  the  finest  building,  in  point  of  size, 
material,  and  purely  Grecian  character,  in  the  United 
States.      On  the  evening  after  my  an-ival,  a  gentleman 
kindly  undertook  to  conduct  me  to  this,  the  grandest 
architectural  product  of  America.    Placed  as  it  is  within 
a  spacious  pleasure-ground,  I  was  struck  with  its  mag- 
nificent proportions  and  general  aspect.    It  is  in  form  a 
parallelogram,  composed  entirely  of  white  marble,  with 
a  basement  of  steps  all  round.     With  eight  Corintliian 


3tion  licre  as 


PHIIADEIPHFA. 


813 


pJlars  at  each  end,  and  eleven  on  each  side,  supportinR 
a  pediment  and  roof,  it  presents  an  exact  model  of  the 
higher  class  Greek  temples.  The  pillars  are  6  feet  i„ 
diameter,  and  55  feet  high,  cxclnsive  of  base  and  capital 

stair  t„T  "''"?  't  ^"''"''*'°"'  ^  '^'""^''^  ^y  «"  inn« 
otr  1  .  '  7  ™™  "  '""S'-'fi™"'  view  was  obtained 
over  the  city  and  countiy  to  the  west.  The  roof  itself 
IS  a  eur.osity.      It  is  composed  of  slabs  of  marble 

J  out  1000  tons     Consisting  chiefly  of  class-rooms,  the 

and  other  offieci-s,  reside  in  two  separate  or  ont  bnild- 

'  MOnnn  7  f  n  ""r  ™P'''''  "«'»""™t  cost  nearly 
-,000,000  of  dollars.  I  call  it  monument;  for,  like 
Heriot's  and  Donaldson's  Hospitals  at  Edi^bu^h,  t 
s,  in  reality,  a  thing  devised  by  the  founder  to  keep 
his  name  from  sinking  into  oblivion.  The  rearing  of 
eWdren  in  monastic  establishments  of  th.s  class,  is  an 
error  of  the  past,  which  one  does  not  expect  t^  fi„S 

8  ght    of  Giraid  College,   with    aU    its    architectural 

fnlf '   !f!f'''    ^""''■'''    education,    Pennsylvania    has 

ndTol  th  "T'"'  "*  '^*''''  NewEnJand  states 
and  now  the  stranger  wiU  be  gratified  in  witnessin.^ 
a  completely  ramified  system,  adapted  to  the  wants  of 

e^irrT.f'  'It'™""  '^''^'''"  ^'^'  ™d  ^"''ucted 
pohcy.  Nearly  an  entire  day  was  devoted  by  me  to 
™.ti„g  schools  and  academics  established  on  this 
liberal  basis;  and,  like  aU  who  have  made  simik^ 
mqumes  I  rejoiced  to  see  such  admirable  means 
adopted  to  msure  the  inteUigenee  of  future  generations. 
1  ,ll    7^'i  "^"f  '^^  '"  *^^«  ?""'<=  ^"hools  the 


of  different  classes  of  people  attended  without 


Wv^  I 


}<.  ^.i 


if    , 


314 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


reserve— the  son  of  a  carter,  for  example,  being  seen 
beside  the  son  of  a  judge— a  state  of  things  less  imput- 
able  to  any  republican  notion,  than  to  the  fact,  that  the 
education  given  could  not  be  c  ceUed,  if  it  could  be  at 
all  approached,  in  any  private  establishment.     Perhaps 
also,  something  is  due  to  another  fact ;  which  is,  that 
the  chUdren  of  a  humbler  class  of  persons  are  usually 
as  weU  dressed  as  those  of  a  superior  station;  for  in 
general  circumstances,  American  operatives,  with  their 
high  sense  of  self-respect,  dress  themselves  and  their 
famdies  in  a  manner  which   admits  of  no   challenge 
from  the  more  opulent  classes.      The  entire  number 
of  pubhcly  supported  schools,  ranging  from  tlie  primary 
to  the  higher  establishments,  is  about  300,  with  upwards 
of    8p0  teachers,   of  whom   the   majority   are   young 
women  specially  educated  for  the  purpose  in  a  normal 
school.      Besides  these   institutions,   there  are   many 
denominational    academics;     and    latterly,    a    School 
of  Design   has  been  commenced   for  the  purpose  of 
improving  the  tastes  of  young  persons  connected  with 
manufacturing  establishments. 

Like  Boston  and  New  York,  Philadelphia  aboimds 
in  public  libraries,  museums,  and  scientific  and  artistic 
institutions.      I   was   taken   from    library    to    libraiy 
through  a  long  and  bewildering  series,  each  addressed 
to  a  diflbrcnt  class  of  readers— apprentices,  merchants, 
and  men  of  scientific  and  literary  acquirements.    In  this 
exem-sion,  I  visited  the  rooms  of  the  American  Philo- 
sophical Society- the  oldest  institution  of  the  kind  in 
the  United  States,  having  been  begun  by  Dr  Franklin, 
whose  venerable  portrait  hangs  in  one  of  the  apart- 
ments.    The  custodier  of  the  institution,  among  other 
curiosities,  shewed  a  number  of  letters  of  Franklin; 
and  what  Avas  more  historically  interesting,  the  original 
draught  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence  by  Jefferson, 
containing    the   fiery  passage    in    reference  to   negro 


A. 

i,  being  seen 
^s  less  imput- 
fact,  that  the 
t  could  be  at 
it.     Perhaps, 
t^hich  is,  that 
i  are  usually 
ition;  for  in 
s,  with  their 
38  and  their 
lo   challenge 
tire  number 
the  primary 
rith  upwards 

are  young 

iry  a  normal 

5  are   many 

a    School 

purpose  of 
inected  with 

lia  abounds 
and  artistic 

to  library 
ti  addressed 

merchants, 
its.  In  this 
lean  Philo- 
the  kind  in 
'r  Franklin, 

the  apart- 
nong  other 

Franklin; 
;he  original 
y  Jefferson, 
I    to    nao-rn 

—  o — 


PHILADELPHIA.  gp 

slavery,  which  was  discreetly  struck  out  on  the  final 
revisal  of  the  document. 

Once  the  poHtical  metropolis  of  the  States,  nothing 
ot  that  character  now  pertains  to  Philadelphia  but  the 
national  Mint,  which,  for  some  special  reasons,  has  not 
been  removed  to  Washington.     After  a  sight  of  the 
Itoyal  Mint  in  London,  one  would  not  expect  to  find 
any  novelty  here;  but  the  establishment  is  exceedin-lv 
worthy  of  being  .-isited,  if  only  to  see  the  extent  of  the 
coming  process,  and  the  beauty  of  the  mechanism  which 
18  employed.   Accommodated  in  a  large  marble  building 
with  a  portico  and  pillars  in  front,  the  Mint  is  conducted 
^^th  a  singular  accuracy  of  arrangement  under  proper 
officers,  and   according  to  the  latest  improvements  in 
the  arts.     Many  of  the  lighter  operations,  including 
the  weighmg   and   filing  of  the  gold  pieces,  and  the 
assortmg  of  quantities  of  coin,  are  performed  by  younn- 
women.     Wliile  being  politely  conducted  through  the 
several  departments  by  the  principal  of  the  establish- 
ment, I  mqmred  what  means  were  adopted  for  secmin- 
the  integrity  of  the  persons  employed;  and  was  told  i^ 
reply,  that  none  was  attempted  beyond  the  ordinary 
checks  as  to  weight.     '  Our  true  check,  howevei-  said 
the  mteUigent  functionary,  ^s  the  sentiment  of  self- 
respect     All  are  put  on  their  honour,  and  the  smaUest 
act  of  dishonesty  in  one  would  be  felt  as  a  disgrace  to 
the  whole.     We  are  repaid  for  our  confidence-nothini? 
IS  lost;  thefts   are   unknown.^      Can   they    be   a   bad 
people,  of  whom  such  a  character  is  given  ?     I  think 
not. 

Since  the  discovery  of  gold  in  CaHfornia,  the  coinage 
lias  been  immense.  Travellers,  a  few  years  ago,  spoke 
of  the  abundance  and  wi'etchedness  of  the  paper-money 
circulatmg  everywhere  through  tlie  States.  You  still 
see  doUar-notes,  purporting  to  be  issued  by  state  and 
CKy   banks;    but,    to  all  appearance,   the   circulating 


i  I 


316 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


medium  is  to  a  very  large  extent,  if  not  chiefly,  in  gold 
coins.     At  the  time  of  my  visit,  the  principal  deficiency 
was  in  silver,  for  small-change ;  though  new  quarter 
dollars  of  that  metal,  resembling  an  English  shilling, 
were  coming  into  use,  and  are  now  perhaps  plentiful! 
The  most  common  coins  were  the  gold  dollar— a  most 
beautiful  smaU  piece— the  two-and-a-half  doUar,   and 
the  fivp-doUar  piece.     The  eagle— a  ten-doUar  gold  coin 
—was  seldom  visible,  and  more  seldom  still,  the  double 
eagle.     Latterly,   it  has  been  proposed  to  coin   fifty- 
dollar  gold  pieces;  and  some  of  an  octagonal  form  of 
that  amount  have  been  actually  executed  at  California, 
and  are  seen  in  the  windows  of  the  money-changers  in 
New  York.     On  looking  over  the  collection  of  native 
and  ^foreign   coins  in  the  Mint  at  Philadelphia,  it  is 
observable  that  the  Americans  come  quite  up  to  the 
English  in  some  details  of  mechanical  execution,  but 
are  still  distanced  in  artistic  design.     The  devices  on 
the  various  American  pieces,  gold  and  silver,  are  not 
elegant,  neither  is  the  die-sinking  so  perfect  as  it  might 
be;  and  to  an  improvement  in  both  these  points,  the 
United   States'  governmei  ^  for  the  sake  of  its  own 
credit,   could  not  do  better  than  direct  attention.     It 
appeal^  that  for  several  years  the  coinage  in  the  Mint 
at  Philadelphia   has   been  upwards   of  50,000,000   of 
dollars  per  annum.     Taken  in  connection  with  the  pro- 
duct of  the  English  and  French  Mints,  it  is  stated  on 
authority,  that  the  coined  money  ushered  into  existence 
in  the  year  1853,  attained  the  value  of  £38,725,831— a 
quantity  of  hard  cash  added  to  the  ordinary  currency 
which    gives    an    impressive    idea    of    the    industrial 
transactions  of  modem  times. 

After  all  that  a  stranger  can  say  of  the  more 
remarkable  edifices  and  institutions  in  a  city — after 
describing  the  aspect  of  the  streets  and  of  the  people 
who  crowd  them— he  necessarily  leaves  oflp  with  the 


PHILADELPHIA.  gjy 

conviction,  that  he  has  failed  to   impart   a  fuU  and 
correct  idea  of  what  came  under  his  notice.     How  for 
example    am  I  able  to  communicate  a  just  notion  of 
the  mteUigence,  the  refinement,  the  enterprise  of  the 
Phdadelphians-their  agreeable  and  hospitable  society, 
their  pleasant  evening-parties,  their  love  of  literatu/e 
their  happy  blending  of  the  industrial  habits  of  the 
north  with  the  social  usages  of  the  south?     All  this 
must   be  left  to  conjecture,   as  weU  as   the    Oriental 
luxury  of  their  dwellings,  and  the  delicate  beauty  of 
their  ladies      I  only  indulge  in  the  hope  that  these  fair 
and  fascmatmg  beings  will  not  accuse  me  of  want  of 
gaUantry  in  hinting  to  them,  in  the  gentlest  possible 
mamier,    that   they  have    one  fardt-at  least  I  think 
they  have-one,  however,  common  to  all  their  country- 
women, and  that  is,  staying  too  mucli  in  the  house  in 
an  atmosphere  not   quite,  but  nearly,   as  hot  as  that 

Ih  ti°     ;  T  *""^^^^  '"'^'''^'^^  apartments, 

with  the  streams  of  warm  air  rushing  out  of  gratings 

from  some  unimaginable  hot  cavern  beneath-siroccos 
of  the  desert  led,  as  a  matter  of  fancy,  into  drawing- 
rooms-languor-promoting  and   cheek-blanching  gales 
-enemies  to  health  and  longevity !     How  the  ordinary 
duties  of  life   are  carried   on  in  these   hot-houses,  I 
cannot   understand.      Sometimes   I   was    inclined    to 
think  that  there  must  be  a  great  chilliness  in  American 
constitutions-that   they  must  feel  cold   much    more 
readily  than   we  do  in   Eng'and,  where,  even  in  the 
coldest  weather,  houses  are   rarely  heated  beyond  65 
degrees  and  that  by  open  fires  promotive  of  ventilation 
l^om  whatever  reason,  the  Americans  heat  their  dweU- 
mgs  to  a  degree  of  which  we  in  the  old  country  have 
not  tho  faintest  conception.     That  such  a  practice  is 
the  mam  cause  of  a  want  of  rosy  colour  in  the  com- 
piexion,  and  that  appearance  of  prematm-e  old  a-e  in 
...^  ^-,i..ono  wi  „otli  a^xva,  IS  past  a  doubt;  though  I 


818 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


f     < 


Kw 


am  not  aware  that  the  subject  has  met  with  attention 
from  physiologists.  '  What  with  the  thin  dry  air  out 
of  doors,  and  hot  stoves  within,  the  Americans/  said 
a  facetious  friend,  'get  themselves  regularly  baked— 
shrivelled  up  before  their  time.  No  wonder  they  are 
everlastingly  drinking  cold  water:  if  they  did  not  keep 
moistening  themselves,  they  would  dry  up  to  mummies.' 
This  joke  was  rather  hard,  but  not  altogether  un- 
deserved. 

Philadelphia  is  somehow  associated,  par  excellence, 
m  the  minds  of  the  English  with  the  idea  of  America. 
When  we  think  of  the  history  of  that  great  country, 
or  of  its  statesmen,  or  patriots,  up  comes  the  notion 
of  Philadelphia  in  a  very  remarkable  way.     The  story 
of  Franklin's  early  struggles,  imprinted  on  the  mind 
of  every  boy,  has  perhaps  something  to  do  with  this 
psychological  spectrum.     We  all  recollect  his  eflPorts  to 
get  up  a  printing-office— the  deceptions  promises  of  the 
Enghsh  governor  to  lend  him  money  to  import  a  small 
stock   of  types— his  newspaper,  started  originally  by 
Keimar  in  1723,  and  the  second  in  the  proviT.ce— his 
experiments  in  drawing  lightning  from  the  clouds— and 
many  ether  interesting  circumstances  in  his  career.     It 
is  now  about  a  hundred  and  twenty  years  since  Franklin 
commenced  as  a  bookseller  and  printer  in  Philadelphia, 
and  gave,  as  it  may  be  said,  a  literary  reputation  to  the 
place.     From  small  beginnings,  the  trade  in  the  pro- 
duction of  books  has  increased  so  largely,  that  now  the 
city  in  this  respect  is  a  formidable  rival  to  Boston  and 
New  York.     Besides  a  large  number  of  magazines,  and 
journals  of  science  and  art,  published  periodically,  there 
were,  at  the  time  of  my  visit,  as  many  as  twelve  or 
thirteen  daily,  and  upwards  of  forty  weekly,  newspapers 
—several  of  them  reHgious,  for  Sunday-reading.    From 
several  pubhshing-houses,  there  are  issued  vast  quan- 
tities of  books  in  miscellaneous  literature;  and  here. 


PHILADELPHIA.  g^g 

among  other  curiosities  which  interested  me  profes- 
sionally I  alighted  upon  the  large  concern  of  Messrs 
Lippmcott    Grambo,  and  Company,  which,  independ- 

Sp     ^  ^K    r  P^^^^^^g^  ^^rries  on  the  peculiar 
busmess    of  book-merchants.      A    spacious    building 
severe  stones  in  height,  is  stored,  floor  above  floof 
^th  books  gathered  from  aU  the  publishers  in  the 
Union,  as  well  as  from  England,  and  ready  for  selection 
and  pm-chase  by  retaU-booksellers  coming  from  every 
part  of  the  States.     Any  person,  for  example,  wish'g 
to    open   a  book-store   in   California,   or  some   other 
distant  quarter,  may  here,  in  a  walk  from  bin  to  bin 
acqmre  such  a  varied  stock  as  suits  his  purse  or  his 
mchnation.      Say   that    he   is   going   to   open   for  a 
season  at   Saratoga,   the   White   Sulphur   Springs   of 
Vu-gima  or  any  other  fashionable  watering-place,  there 
he  has  his  choice  of  handy  Httle  volumes,  flashUy  gilt, 
m  the  hght  line.     Or,  say  that  he  wishes  to  go  into  the 
school  or  heay  trade,  stiH  he  finds  a  mine  of  material 
ready  to  his  fingers.     In  an  hour,  he  might  load  a 
wagon  with  all  the  varied  Hteraiy  wares  he  can  possibly 
reqiure;  just  as  a  country  draper,  dropping  into  one 
of  the  streets  about  Cheapside,  is  able  to  lay  in  his 
misceUaneous  stock  of  haberdashery  for  the  season.     I 
was  told  by  one  of  the  principals  of  the  firm,  that  it 
had  dealings  in  every  seat  of  population  of  any  import- 
ance  from   New   Orleans  to  Toronto,  and  from  the 
Atlan  ic  to  beyond  St  Louis.     Think  of  commercial 
travellers  being  despatched  on  a  journey  of  2000  mUes 
—as  far  as  from  Londoii  to  Cairo  or  Jerusalem  I 

Such  concerns  as  this  are  types  of  the  manufacturing 
and  trading  establishments  of  Philadelphia,  which,  in 
diflerent  departments,  is  maldng  extraordinary  endea- 
vom's  to  reach  the  position  taken  from  it  half  a 
century  a^o  by  New  York.  A  person  accustomed 
to  tnink   ot   Birminsfham    ns  ih^  ^^i"  — ^-^   -     '      i- 


820 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


ft.' 


*  'I 

!■■! 


manufactures  in  metal^  would  be  surprised  to  see  the 
large  establishments  in  Philadelphia  for  the  production 
of  that  single  article,  the  locomotive,  of  which  several 
hundreds  are  exported  annually  to  England.  In  a 
factory  of  another  kind,  I  foimd  800  persons  employed 
in  making  gas-lustres  and  chandeliers ;  and  in  a  third, 
were  seen  150  operatives  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of 
gold  chains  and  other  varieties  of  jewellery.  In  the 
fabrication  of  military  and  ladies'  dress-trimmings,  some 
hundreds  of  hands  are  also  employed;  and  one  house 
pointed  out  to  me,  was  said  to  make  1000  umbrellas 
and  parasols  in  a  day.  The  manufactures  of  the  place 
are  stated  as  amounting  to  the  value  of  04,000,000  of 
dollars  per  annum.  The  opulence  introduced  through 
this  ,means  is  vastly  augmented  by  the  produce  of  the 
rich  mineral  fields  of  Pennsylvania,  which  here  finds  an 
outlet.  As  has  been  hinted,  New  York  has  taken  the 
place  of  Philadelphia  as  the  leading  entrepot  of  com- 
merce in  the  States — an  event  traceable  in  some  degree 
to  its  readier  access  from  Europe,  but  principally  to  the 
opening  of  the  Erie  Canal,  and  other  channels  of  com- 
munication with  the  '  Great  West.'  Neglectful  of  its 
interests  in  this  respect,  and  with  capital  directed  to 
mining  industry,  Philadelphia  has  seen  its  rival  on  the 
Hudson  outstrip  it  in  the  race  of  prosperity.  At  length, 
awakened  to  a  sense  of  their  danger,  and  recovered 
from  a  temporary  financial  depression,  the  Philadelphians 
are  going  ahead  at  a  great  rate,  and  it  will  behove 
New  York  to  look  to  its  laurels.  No  Atlantic  city 
can  ever  take  a  commanding  position,  if  unprovided 
with  a  direct  and  easy  access  to  the  valleys  of  the  Ohio 
and  Mississip|)i,  and  the  great  lake-countries  on  the 
north.  Philadelphia  has  found  that  out,  and  by 
means  of  railways  recently  opened,  is  busied  in  getting 
back  the  traffic  which  it  ought  never  to  have  parted 
with.    One  thing,  however,  is  wanting.     Reposing  on 


I  to  see  the 
B  production 
hicli  several 
and.  In  a 
ns  employed 
i  in  a  third, 
nufacture  of 
ry.  In  the 
mings,  some 
I  one  house 
0  umbrellas 
of  the  place 
1,000,000  of 
2ed  through 
duce  of  the 
ere  finds  an 
,s  taken  the 
)6t  of  corn- 
some  degree 
pally  to  the 
lels  of  cora- 
ectful  of  its 
directed  to 
rival  on  the 
At  length, 
i  recovered 
iladelphians 
will  behove 
tlantic  city 
unprovided 
of  the  Ohio 
ries  on  the 
it,  and  by 
i  in  getting 
lave  parted 
deposing  on 


PHILADELPHIA.  jjgl 

the  west  on  the  one  side,  it  wiU  need  to  cultivate 
an    mtercourse    with   England    on    the    other     The 
Delaware  must  be  the  port  of  entry  and  departure  of 
hrst-class    steamers   in    weekly    communication    with 
Southampton  or  Liverpool;  for  at  present,  no  incon- 
siderable   portion    of  the    goods    and   passengers  for 
Philadelphia  require,  for  the  sake  of  speed,  to  go  round 
by  New  York— a  ch-cumstance  attended  with  numerous 
mconveniences.     I   beheve  the   Delaware-a  massive 
river,  and  presenting  miles  of  frontage  for  traffic— is 
fitted   to   bear   with   safety,   to  and  from  the  ocean, 
vessels  of  any  burden;  and  with  such  an  estuary,  and 
such  internal  resom^ces,  it  would  be  difficult  to  assign 
a  hmit  to  its  greatness. 

I  left   Philadelphia  with  more  regret   than  I  had 
experienced   in    departing    from    any    other    city    in 
America.   As  regards  good  organisation,  refinement,  and 
prospenty,  the  only  eastern  city  fit  to  be  named  with  it 
is  Boston;  and  when  I  add  Toronto,  the  three  seats 
of  population  are  mentioned,  which,  according  to  my 
fancy,   offer  the    attractions   usually  sought  for  by  a 
class   of   emigrants    whose    aim    goes    beyond    mere 
money-makmg  or  the  ordinary  necessities  of  existence 
Philadelphia,  though  not  picturesque,  is  invested  with 
charms  to  invite   the  settlement   of  the   enterprising, 
the  tasteful,  and  the  moderately  opulent.      In  the  far 
northern  townships,   the   severity   of  winter  and  the 
brevity  of  summer  may  repel  the  fastidious  in  climate; 
but  nothing  is  left  to  pine  for  on  the  banks  of  the 
lovely  SchuylkiU  or  the  noble  Delaware.     Even  the 
idler,  who  needs  the  habitual  solacement  of  his  clubs, 
his  whist-parties,  his  conversaziones,  and  his  billiards' 
will  have  no  difficulty  in  discovering  the  objects  of  his 
search  in  Philadelphia. 

Hastening^northwards,  by  a  railway  train  which  took 
me  through  Trenton,  the  scene  of  Washington's  famous 

u 


829 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


exploit,  after  crossiiijif  the  Delaware  on  the  night  of 
Christmas  1776,  I  arrived  in  New  York  a  day  or  two 
before  my  departure  for  England;  and  here  I  may 
pause  to  make  some  general  observations  suggested 
by  my  exeursion. 


ic  night  of 
day  or  two 
ere  I  may 
1  suggested 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

KAILWAYS,  TELEGRAPHS,  AND  OTHER  THINGS. 

U^tof  ^SfT  ''"''   '''  cxtraordmary  feature  of  the 

resources  of  the  country,  and  effecting  such  changes  on 
the  general  aspect  of  affairs,  that  in  a  few  years  tace 
an  inconceivable    progress   will   have   been    atta  ned 
There  are  some  things  so  pecuHar  about  the  American 

on  ^l       that  I  propose  to  offer  a  few  explanations 

on  the  subject    the  res.at  of  personal  inquiry  and  of 

mformation  derived  from  official  papers 

Railways  for  the  transport  of  stone  and  coal  eame 
826IT  «9.'''  ^^?«^-husetts  and  Pennsylvania  in 

1826  and  1827,  and  increased  in  number  fbr  general 
traffic  up  to  1848,  when  6000  miles  of  raUway  were 
completed  throughout  the  States.     Since  that  stage 
m  their  history,  they  have  considerably  increased,  and 
been  pushed  to  great  distances  towards  the  interior 
In  October   1853,   the  length   of  railways   in   actual 
operation  in  the  United  States  was  14,494  miles,  nearly 
one-half  of  which  was  in  the  New  England  States  and 
n  the  state  of  New  York.     The  number  of  railways  in 
these  states,  and  also  in  Penn -ylvania,  sm^rises  every 
traveller  from  Europe.    They  are  seen  radiating  in 
several  directions    from    every    city,   interlining    and 
crossmg  and  sending  out  branches,   so  as   to   bring 

every  seat  of  nonulation  of  nnxr  i«>r.«^ -•-^_        , 

^  ^  __  — J  ixxijjwj.  i/aiii;c  iiiio  reaay 


ib«;i 


824 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


communication  with  the  chief  marts  of  commerce.  In 
Massachusetts  alone,  in  the  early  part  of  1853,  there 
were  about  1200  miles  of  railway — a  large  number  for 
a  state  with  one-third  of  the  population  of  Scotland. 
At  the  same  period,  New  York  had  3123  miles; 
Pennsylvania,  1244  miles;  and  Ohio,  which  is  by 
comparison  a  newly  settled  state,  1385  mUes.  Large 
extensions  have  now  been  made  in  all;  and  the  entire 
railway-system  of  the  United  States  at  the  present 
moment  may  be  said  to  comprehend  nearly  18,000 
miles,  with  several  thousand  miles  in  course  of  con- 
struction. It  is  anticipated  that,  previous  to  the  year 
1860,  there  will  be  completed  within  the  Hmits  of  the 
United  States  at  least  35,000  miles  of  railway. 

Th^  principle  pursued  in  organising  this  marvellous 
system  of  transport,  has  been,  in  the  first  place,  to 
lest  satisfied  with  single  lir.es  untd  the  resources  of  a 
district  were  so  far  opened  up,  and  capital  thereby 
created,  as  to  warrant  the  construction  of  double 
tracks.  Only  a  few  have  as  yet  attained  the  dignity 
of  double  lines.  I  have  no  recollection  of  seeing  more 
than  one  railway  which  had  reached  this  degree  of 
maturity — that  down  the  banks  of  the  Hudson  to 
New  York — and  even  it  is  only  double  at  particular 
places.  It  will  be  understood,  therefore,  that  American 
railways  are  almost  all  only  single  tracks,  and  do 
not  admit  of  trains  passing  each  other,  except  at 
appointed  stations.  Sometimes  a  train  has  to  stop 
for  an  hour  tiU  the  arrival  of  the  one  in  the  opposite 
direction;  but  this,  as  with  other  inconveniences,  is 
felt  to  be  of  inferior  moment  in  comparison  with. 
having  no  railway  at  all ;  and  keeping  in  remembrance 
the  wretched  state  of  the  ordinary  roads,  or  rather 
tracks  in  mud,  not  worthy  of  the  name  of  roads,  I 
am  not  in  the  least  surprised  at  the  patience  shewn 
by  Americans  in  waiting  for  trains  at  mid- way  stations. 


merce.  In 
L853,  there 
number  for 
f  Scotland. 
123  miles; 
liich  is  by 
[es.  Large 
I  the  entire 
he  present 
irly  18,000 
rse  of  con- 
;o  the  year 
aiits  of  the 

marvellous 
t  place,  to 
purees  of  a 
tal  thereby 

of  double 
the  dignity 
jeeing  more 

degree  of 
Hudson  to 
t  particular 
t  American 
lS,    and   do 

except  at 
as  to  stop 
he  opposite 
miences,  is 
irison  -with 
membrance 

or  rather 
of  roads,  I 
mce  shewn 
ay  stations. 


RAILWAYS,  TKLEORAPHS,  AND  OTnEK  THINOS.        335 

In  general,  however,  there  is  not  n.uch  detention  nn 
th.s  aeeount;  it  being  ordinarily  contrived    ha    meat 

Td^stc*:^:"  "*  *^ ''"'''  -''-  »*  --"'^Je' 

Contented  at  the  outset  with  single  lines,  the  pro- 
jectors of  raUways  are  also  satisfied  with  oZr 
simple  and  economic  arrangements.  Where  bridges 
or  mducts  are  required,  they  are  usually  const^cS 
of  logs  of  wood,  both  for  the  upright  supp"„1 
^ossWrs  applied  in  a  rough  L'e  from'CadT' 
^thout  pohsh  or  painting.  In  some  instances,  there 
are    long   viaduct    connections    of   this    kind    across 

above  the  surface,  that  the  trains  seem  as  L 
nmmng  on  the  water.  I  seldom  saw  anyTedg^s  to 
these  viaducts;  and  nothing  could  have  sa^d  th» 
trams  had  they  slipped  from  the  track      In  the  ml 

viaducts  across  rivers,  constructed  at  a  considerable 
cost  of  stone  and  iron.  There  is  a  handsomrSe 
of  this  kmd  near  Philadelphia,  and  another  of  st  "pen 

ofTau':^:"''""  ""  ^"^  ""'^  ^"'"^  '""'  l^r^^Zl 
The  rails  ordinarily  employed  are  of  the  T  8han» 
common  in  England,  whence  they  are  4eJ  i~T: 
and  the  gauge  is,  with  some  exceptions,  our  Z  ^dth 
of  4  feet  81  inches.     The  univer^  pictice Ttrw 
them  m    an   unexceptionable   mam.er   on    tlsverse 
wooden  sleepers,  of  which  there  seems  to  be  noTealci^ 
anywhere,  for  they  are  generally  placed  not  mo  eTat 
a  foot  apart;  this  abundance  of  sleepers   appLntlv 
compensatmg  for  a  want  of  proper  ballaLg  or  pS 
with  grave  .      Little  trouble  is  taken  to    ^7  hf 
surface  to  drain  the  sides,  or  to  fence  the  lines.   Where 
the  railways  mtersect  cultivated  fields,  or  patches  of  ! 

superior  kind  of  pa^nre-Iand    "--  ''-      ^'■^^^°*  » 

'      — c -unu,  «„c  uncs  are  enclosed 


.•^I 


826 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


Tf  itli  the  usual  zigzag  rails ;  but  in  many  places  there 
are  no  fences  of  any  kind,  and  the  lines  can  be  crossed  by 
foot-passengers  without  challenge.  Sometimes,  owing 
to  the  want  of  fences,  cattle  stray  upon  the  lines,  and 
are  killed;  although,  to  avert  such  catastrophes,  the 
locomotives  are  provided  with  a  shelving-fender  in  front, 
called  a  cow-catcher,  which  is  intended  to  clear  the 
tracks  of  any  large  object  that  may  be  in  the  way.  At 
various  places,  the  railways  proceed  for  miles  through 
thick  forests  of  tall  trees,  and  there  the  prospect  from 
the  windows  of  the  cars  is  wild  and  solemn.  Lofty 
pines,  intermingled  with  birch  and  maple,  rise  like  a 
wall  on  each  side.  Here  and  there,  occur  small  clear- 
ings, in  which  huge  trunks  and  boughs  are  strewn 
about,  rotting  into  moidd,  or  gathered  together  in  heaps 
to  be  burned.  Sometimes  the  outermost  trees  have 
been  partly  torn  up  by  the  roots  by  the  last  gale  of 
wind,  and  recline  on  those  behind  them,  or  impend  in 
dangerous  proximity  to  the  line,  as  if  nodding  in 
anger  at  the  passing  trains — monarchs  of  the  wood, 
whose  reign  in  these  ancient  solitudes  has  been 
strangely  intruded  upon  by  the  rushing  enginery  of 
modern  transport.  Probably,  there  is  a  law  to  enjoin 
the  cutting  down  of  trees  witliin  a  proper  distance 
of  die  hue;  but  if  there  be,  it  is  not  always  strictly 
regarded.  From  the  neglect  of  such  precautions, 
trees  that  are  blown  down  occasionally  fall  across  the 
tracks,  causing  accidents  or  stoppages.  On  coming 
from  Cleveland  towards  Buffalo,  through  a  forest 
which  skirts  Lake  Erie,  I  learned  that,  two  days 
previously,  a  fallen  tree  had  retarded  the  train  for 
several  hours,  and  caused  considerable  inconvenience 
to  the  passengers. 

The  economising  of  means  is  likewise  carried  to  a 
considerable  length  in  the  construction  of  inexpensive 
station-houses.     The  more  important  termini,  at   the 


aces  there 
crossed  by 
les,  owing 
lines,  and 
3phes,  the 
er  in  front, 
clear  the 
way.  At 
3s  through 
ipect  from 
n.  Lofty 
rise  like  a 
nail  clear- 
ire  strewn 
;r  in  heaps 
trees  have 
ist  gale  of 
impend  in 
odding  in 
the  wood, 
has  been 
Qginery  of 
'  to  enjoin 
r  distance 
ys  strictly 
recautions, 
across  the 
'n  coming 
L  a  forest 
two  days 
train  for 
3nvenience 

rried  to  a 
nexpensive 
ni,  at   the 


EAILWAYS,  TELEOaAPIIS,  AND  OTHER  THINGS.        327 

principal  cities,  consist  of  handsome  suites  of  offices  for 
the  sale  of  tickets,  waiting-rooms,  and  other  purposes, 
but  on  a  scale  very  inferior  in  point  of  grandeur  to  what 
we   see   at  Euston   Square— the  very  outJay   on  the 
pillai-ed  entrance  to  that  estabUshment  being  enough  to 
make  a  railway  of  moderate  extent  on  the  American 
pattern.     At  PhUadelphia  and  Washington,  the  termini 
are  more  than  usually  elegant.     Those  of  New  York  are 
commonplace,  and  confused  in  their  arrangements :  nor 
do  they  require  to  be  of  an  imposing  J..,racter ;  for  in 
the  last-mentioned  city,  the  cars  enter  and  depart  in 
detachments,  drawn  by  horses.     The  method  of  con- 
structing the  cars  with  steps  accessible  from  the  ground, 
renders   higli  platforms  unnecessary;  and  such  shght 
elevations  as    ai'e   placed  for  the   accommodation   of 
passengers,  being  made  of  wood,  Uke  a  raised  flooring, 
there  is,  in  this  particidar  also,  a  saving  of  outlay.     In 
the  waiting-apartments,  there  is  likewise  nothing  very 
fine;  and  the  only  distinction  is  a  separate  reception- 
room,  and  in  many  places  a  separate  wicket  for  the 
sale  of  tickets,  exclusively  for  ladies.     At  many  stations 
on  the  western  lines,  I  observed  no  waiting-rooms  of 
any  kind,  if  we  exclude  from  that  category  the  space 
outside  the  bar  of  the  ticket-seller.     At  Richmond,  in 
Virginia,  I  was  set  down  in  the  middle  of  the  pubhc 
street,   and  saw  no  trace   of  a  station-house,  further 
than  a  small  office  where  tickets  were  obtained. 

So  far,  it  will  be  perceived  that  an  American  rail- 
way is  got  up  on  an  exceedingly  cheap  plan;  and, 
placed  in  comparison  with  the  magnificently  con- 
structed lines  of  England,  it  might  be  pronounced 
a  rude  and  shabby  afikir.  As  regards  initiatory 
expenses,  something  instructive  can  be  said.  In  most 
of  the  states,  each  railway  company  requires  to  have 
a  special  statute  or  charter,  which  is  procured  at  an 
insignificant  cost ;  aU  that  is  necessarv  beino-  fn  sTinm 


328 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


I 


that  the  proposed  company  is  provided  with  means 
to  carry  out  its  undertaking.  In  several  states, 
including  New  York  and  Ohio,  no  special  charter  is 
now  needed  for  a  railway.  A  general  railway  law 
prescribes  the  rules  to  be  followed  by  aU  corporate 
concerns;  and  within  the  provisions  named,  any  rail- 
way company,  if  it  has  the  means,  may  commence 
operations.  There  is  thus,  in  reality,  no  impediment 
to  the  covering  the  whole  country  with  railways; 
and  this  freedom  is  imparted  on  the  solid  ground, 
that  each  company  best  knows  its  own  interests,  and 
that  nobody  will  be  so  foolish  as  to  throw  away 
money  in  making  a  railway,  any  more  than  in 
setting  up  a  store,  or  building  a  factory,  where  it  is 
not  wanted.  This  free-and-easy  system  may  be 
attended  with  evils;  but  some  will  perhaps  think  it 
preferable  to  the  expensive  and  generally  ftitile 
contests  about  railway  bills  ir   Parliament. 

Thus  relieved  of  many  ex^  ases  which  weigh  heavily 
on  our  system,  and  diminish  profits,  the  American 
railway  companies  have  the  ftirther  advantage  of 
getting  land  for  nothing,  or  at  very  insignificant 
prices.  In  the  western,  or  imimproved  parts  of  the 
countiy,  land  for  railways  is  sometimes  given  by  town- 
ships, counties,  or  the  state  authorities,  in  order  to 
encourage  capitalists;  and  I  heard  even  of  instances 
in  which  the  public  contributed  not  only  the  land, 
but  the  earth-works— so  much  alive  are  the  people 
to  the  advantage  of  having  a  district  opened  up  by 
such  communication.  In  the  older  settled  states, 
land  is  less  easily  procured,  and  may  have  cost  in  many 
places  as  much  as  iilO  to  £20  an  acre ;  the  highest  of 
these  prices,  however,  being  not  more  than  a  twentieth 
of  what  is  paid  for  some  of  the  most  wTetched  land  in 
Great  Britain. 

The    only    expenses    worth    speaking    of    in    the 


1  means 
1  states, 
larter  is 
way  law 
!orporate 
my  rail- 
ramence 
)ediment 
ailways ; 
ground, 
ists,  and 
w  away 
than  in 
;re  it  is 
may  be 
think  it 
'     futile 

heavUv 

merican 

tage    of 

jnificant 

of  the 

y  town- 

►rder  to 

istances 

le  land, 

people 

up  by 

states, 

n  many 

?hest  of 

^entieth 

land  in 

in    the 


RAILWAYS,  TELEGRAPHS,  AND  OTHER  THINGS.        329 

construction  of  American  railways,  are  those  incurred 
for  labour  and  for  iron  raus.     Wood  for  sleepers  can 
m  many  places,  be  had  for  the  cost  of  cutting  and 
preparing.     To  the  great  open  prairies,  wood  as  well 
as  rails   must,    of   course,    be   brought  from   distant 
quarters;    but   the   expense    of  carriage  is  balanced 
by  the  comparatively  light  cost  of  earth-works.     In 
these  prames,  a  railway  may  be  carried  500  miles  in 
a   straight   Ime    on    nearly    a    dead-level  —  the    line 
stretching  onward  through  grass  and  flowers  without 
the  shghtest  obstruction,  and  appearing  to  the  eye  like 
a  zone  girdling  the  earth.     In  these  level  regions  the 
cost  for  railways,  including  every  outlay,  is  stated  to 
be  about   20,000   doUars  per  mile;   but  the  general 
average  cost  over  the  whole   States,  as  I  see  by  an 
official  document,  is  34,307  dollars,  or  about  ^6866 
per  mUe.     No  doubt,  this  is  a  small  sum  compared 
with  the  average  cost  of  our  great  lines,  swollen  by 
the  rapacity  of  lando^vTiers,  by  parliamentary  expenses 
and  extravagances  of  various  kinds.     But  as   single 
lines,  of  an  economical  kind,  are  now  being  constructed 
m  Scotland  for  little  more  than  J4000  per  mUe    I 
am  inclined  to  think  that,  but  for  the  protective  duties 
imposed  on  foreign  rails    (and  perhaps,  also,   a  little 
quiet  jobbing),  the  cost  of  lines  in  the  United  States 
aU  things  considered,  would  be  materially  less   than 
it  is.* 

An  English  railway,  as  is  well  known,  is  secluded 
fa-om  end  to  end  within  palings  and  gateways,  the  whole 
tormmg  an  enclosure  from  which  passengers  are  not 
allowed  to  make  their  exit  without  delivering  up  their 
tickets.     Things   are  entirely  different  in  the  United 

502  7^7"o  nnn^'.*n'  *°*1  sum  invested  in  railways  in  tlie  United  States  was 
OJi,770,000  dollars,  of  which  amount  300,000,000  dollars  were  borrowed 
on  bonds,  at  an  interest  of  8  to  10  per  cent,  per  annum.  Th«  «,fLrr.nf<.d 
actual  pronts  ot  the  railway  companies  vary  from  o  to  10  per  cent 


1 

1 

fi 

830 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


States.  The  side-palings,  as  above  mentioned,  are  at 
best  only  fences  of  particular  fields;  and  near  the 
stations  no  gates  are  employed  to  detain  passengers. 
Every  kind  of  mechanism  for  seclusion  is  rendered 
imnecessary,  by  the  plans  for  selling  and  receiving  back 
tickets.  Within  all  the  principal  termini,  there  are 
offices  where  tickets  may  be  procured,  and  there  are 
likewise,  in  every  city  of  importance,  general  railway 
agency-offices,  resembling  shops,  where  tickets  for  a 
series  of  railways,  en  suite,  may  be  purchased.  There 
seems  to  be  considerable  competition  among  the  agents 
who  keep  these  establishments,  in  order  to  induce 
passengers  to  go  by  particular  lines.  Their  shops  are 
known  by  flaming  placards  hung  out  at  the  doors,  and 
vast  quantities  of  handbills  are  distributed,  recommen- 
datory of  certain  routes  as  the  cheapest  and  speediest. 
It  would  be  impossible  to  give  an  idea  of  the  profusion 
with  which  such  alluring  advertisements  are  scattered 
among  travellers.  At  the  hotels,  they  are  literally 
sown  broadcast  on  the  ground;  it  being  nothing 
singular  to  see  a  lad  enter  with  a  mass  of  yellow  or  pink 
coloured  biUs,  and  throw  them  about  on  the  tables, 
chairs,  and  floor  of  the  bar,  to  be  picked  up  and  read 
according  to  pleasure. 

Whether  purchased  from  agents,  or  at  the  stations, 
the  tickets  do  not  carry  any  date,  further  than  the  year 
in  which  they  are  issued.  The  practice  is  to  sell  all  the 
tickets  required  in  the  route,  although  embracing  the 
lines  of  several  companies.  In  England,  there  is  a 
more  convenient  plan  of  issuing  a  single  through- 
ticket,  which  carries  the  passenger  forward  to  the  end 
of  his  journey.  I  am  not  aware  that  this  is  adopted 
any  where  in  America.  So  far  as  my  experience  goes, 
the  passenger  is  furnished  with  several  tickets  for  the 
line  of  railway  on  his  route.  Comparatively  few  per- 
sons, however,  put  thfiTnsRlvps  tn  th"^  ti'O"^^!'^  -^^  wq,*+;Tifr 


led,  are  at 

near  the 

)a8sengers. 

rendered 

iving  back 

there  are 

there  are 

al  railway 

cets  for  a 

d.     There 

the  agents 

to  induce 

shops  are 

loorsj  and 

scommen- 

speediest. 

profusion 

scattered 

I  literally 

;   nothing 

w  or  pink 

le  tables, 

and  read 

1  stations, 
L  the  year 
eU  all  the 
acing  the 
lere  is  a 
through- 
3  the  end 
i  adopted 
nee  goes, 
s  for  the 
few  per- 


Turqi-firirr 


RAILWAYS,  TELEGRAPHS,  AND  OTHER  THINGS.        331 

to  buy  tickets  at  the  stations,  but  unceremoniously 
enter  the  cars,  and  take  their  seats  even  at  the  last 
moment,  leaving  the  business  of  settlement  to  be  adjusted 
with  the  conductor.  Let  me  say  a  word  respecting  this 
functionary. 

An  American  conductor  is  a  nondescript  being,  half 
clerk,  half  guard,  with  a  dash  of  the  gentleman.     He  is 
generaUy  weU  dressed;  sometimes  wears  a  beard;  and 
when  off  duty,  he  passes  for  a  respectable  personage  at 
any  of  the  hotels,  and  may  be  seen  lounging  about  in 
the  best  company  vdth  a  fashionable  wife.     No  one 
would  be  surprised  to  find  that  he  is  a  colonel  in  the 
miHtia,  for  'good  Whips'  in  the  old  coaching-time  are 
known  to  have  boasted  that  distinction.     At  aU  events 
the  conductor  would  need  to  be  a  person  of  some  integ- 
rity, for  the  check  upon  his  transactions  is  infinitesi- 
mally  smaU.     One  thing  is  remarkable  about  liim— you 
do  not  get  a  sight  of  him  tiU  the  tram  is  in  motion, 
and  when   it   stops    he   disappears.      I   can    account 
for  this  mysterious  featm-e  in  his  character,  only  by 
supposing,  that  as  soon  as  he  touches  terra  firma   he 
removes  from  the  front  of  his  hat  the  word  blazoned  in 
metal,  which  indicates  his  office;  and  so  aU  at  once 
becomes  an  ordinary  human  being.     The  suddenness  of 
his  appearance,  when  the  train  gets  under-way,  is  very 
marvellous.    Hardly  have  the  wheels  made  a  revolution, 
when  the  door  at  one  end  of  the  car  is  opened,  and  the 
conductor,  like  a  wandering  spirit,  begins  his  rounds. 
^  alkmg  down  the  middle,  ^vith  a  row  of  seats  on  each 
side,  and  each  seat  holding  two  persons,  he  holds  out 
his  hand  right  and  left  as  he  proceeds,  allowing  no 
one  to  escape  his  vigilance.     All  he  says  is  'Ticket'' 
and  he  utters  the  word  in  a  dry,  callous  tone,  as  if  it 
would   cost   something  to  be  cheerful.     If  you  have 
already  bought   a  -ticket,   you   render   it  up  to   this 
abrupt     demand,    and    a    check-ticket    is    given 


m 


I'  ' 


332 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


exchange.  Should  you  have  followed  the  ordinary- 
practice,  and  have  no  ticket  to  produce,  the  conductor 
selects  the  ticket  you  require  from  a  small  tin  box 
he  carries  imder  his  arm,  and  you  pay  him  the  cost 
of  it,  increased  in  price  to  the  extent  of  five  cents,  as 
a  penalty  for  having  had  to  buy  it  in  the  cars — such 
fine  being  exigible,  according  to  a  printed  notification 
on  the  walls  of  the  station-houses. 

Having  finished  off  in  the  car  in  which  you  are 
seated,  the  conductor  opens  the  door  at  the  further 
end,  steps  from  the  platform  across  a  gulf  of  two  feet, 
to  the  platform  of  the  next  car;  and  so  goes  through 
the  whole  train,  till  he  reaches  the  van  devoted  to 
the  baggage,  where  he  has  a  kind  of  den  for  counting 
his  fnoney,  and  cogitating  over  his  affairs.  But  as 
there  is  no  rest  for  the  wicked,  so  there  is  no  repose 
for  a  conductor.  Just  before  coming  up  to  a  station, 
he  makes  his  appearance,  and  takes  a  deliberate  survey 
of  his  customers,  receiving  checks  from  those  who  are 
about  to  depart.  When  the  train  is  in  motion  again, 
the  same  ceremony  is  gone  through — rather  trouble- 
some, it  must  be  owned;  but  the  conductor  has  a 
faculty  for  remembering  who  have  checks  for  a  long, 
and  who  for  a  short  journey,  and  ceases  io  say  ^Ticket' 
more  than  two  or  three  times  to  arybody.  When 
it  grows  dark,  the  conductor  does  njt  trust  to  the 
lamp  which  lights  up  each  car;  he  carries  a  lantern 
with  a  strong  reflector,  which  enables  'lim  to  scrutinise 
the  equivocal  bank-notes  that  may  be  tendered  in 
payment.  To  enable  him  to  perform  this  operation 
satisfactorily,  the  lantern  is  made  with  a  tin  hoop 
beneath,  and  through  this  ring  the  arm  is  thrust,  so 
as  to  leave  both  hands  disengaged. 

The  checks  which  are  distributed  and  collected  by 
the  conductor  in  the  manner  just  explained,  consist 
of  narrow  pieces  of  pasteboard  about  three  inches  long, 


I  ordinary 
conductor 

II  tin  box 
1  the  cost 
;  cents,  as 
;ars — such 
Lotification 

1  you  are 
le  further 
■  two  feet, 
s  through 
[evoted  to 
'  counting 
But  as 
no  repose 
a  station, 
F.te  survey 
e  who  are 
Lon  again, 

V  trouble- 
bor  has  a 
)r  a  long, 

Y  ^Ticket' 
f.  When 
ist  to  the 
a  lantern 
scrutinise 
idered  in 
operation 
tin  hoop 
thrust,  so 

lected  by 
i,  consist 
3hes  long. 


RAILWAYS,  TELEGRAPHS,  AND  OTHER  THINGS.        333 

and  are  of  some  use  to  traveUers.  On  one  side  there 
is  a  list  of  the  various  stopping-places,  with  the  inter- 
mediate distances  in  mUes;  and  thus,  on  consulting 
them,  we  are  able  to  ascertain  our  progress.  Informa- 
tion m  this  form  is  very  desirable;  for  as  there  is  a 
great  deficiency  of  railway-officers  at  the  stations,  and 
as  the  conductor  is  usually  out  of  the  way  when  you 
want  to  ask  a  question,  you  are  very  much  left  to  such 
knowledge  as  the  checks  and  the  American  Bradshaw 
are  able  to  furnish. 

Wanting  the  precision,  and,  it  maybe,  the  comfort 
of  the  EngHsh  railway-system,  the  routine  of  procedure 
m  America  is  in  one  respect  superior.     I  aUude  to  the 
arrangements  connected   with   baggage.     Every  train 
possesses  a  luggage-van  (caUed  a  crate),  and  within  an 
openmg  in  its  side  is  found  a  baggage-master,  who  takes 
charge  of  every  person^s  luggage  without  any  additional 
fee.     The  way  this  is  done  deserves  notice.     On  going 
up  to  the  baggage-master  with  a  portmanteau,  he,  on 
learning   your  destination,  attaches   a  brass-plate   on 
which  a  number  is  struck,  the  plate  being  hung  to  a 
leather  strap  which  he  loops  through  the  handle  of  the 
portmanteau.     At  the  same  time,  he  gives  you  a  dupli- 
cate brass-plate,  on  producing  which  at  the  end  of  your 
journey,  your  portmanteau  is  rendered  up.     At  all  the 
principal  termini,  you  are  spared  the  trouble  of  even 
looking  aftM-  your  luggage.     Just  before  arrival,  the 
baggage-master  leaves   his  van,  and  walking  through 
the  cars,  asks  every  person  if  he  would  like  his  luggage 
delivered,  and  where.     Thankfiil  to  be  relieved  of  what 
is  at  best  an  annoyance,  you  give  up  your  duplicate 
brass-ticket,  the  number  of  which  is  immediately  entered 
in  a  book,  with  the  name  of  the  hotel  you  are  going 
to;  and,  behold!  in  half  an  hour  or  less  after  arrival^ 
there  lies  youi'  luggage  on  the  floor  of  your  bedroom! 
This  trouble  is  requited  by  a  smaii  fee,  which  is  paid 


S34 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


by  the  clerk  of  the  hotel,  and  entered  in  your  account. 
There  is  a  very  extensive  process  of  baggage-deUvery 
of  this  kind  in  New  York  and  other  large  cities.  I 
should,  however,  recommend  travellers  in  the  States 
to  carry  with  them  only  a  hand-valise,  or  carpet-bag, 
which  they  would  be  allowed  to  take  with  them  into 
the  cars. 

Economical  as  the  trains  are  in  general  construction, 
and  with  little  cost,  as  I  should  think,  for  attendants, 
the  expense  of  runnmg  them  must  also  bear  but 
lightly  on  the  revenue.  The  common  rate  of  speed 
is  from  twenty  to  thirty  miles  per  hour.  Two 
passenger-trains,  each  way  per  diem,  is  an  ordinary 
allowance;  and  from  the  general  levelness  of  the 
county,  the  cost  of  haulage  cannot  be  excessive. 
English  locomotives  consume  coke,  manufactured  for 
the  purpose;  but  American  engines  are  much  less 
nice  in  this  respect— they  '  fire  up '  with  billets  of  wood, 
procured  at  a  trifling  cost,  and  stored  in  large  stacks 
along  the  road,  ready  for  use.  From  this  rough  ftiel, 
when  ignited,  sparks  risi  in  large  quantities;  but  to 
prevent  their  egress,  a  capacious  grating  is  placed 
over  the  chimney,  and  we  do  not  hear  of  any  damage 
being  done  by  them.  For  the  most  part,  the  engines 
are  powerful,  and  seem  fit  for  any  kind  of  work. 

The  most  peculiar  thing  of  all  about  these  railways 
is  the  passenger-carriage— always  called  a  'car'  by  the 
Americans.  The  object  which  'ii  exterior  appearance 
most  nearly  resembles  an  Amencan  railway-car,  is  one 
of  those  houses  on  wheels  which  accompanies  travelling 
shows  and  menageries ;  the  only  difference  being  that  the 
car  is  double  the  length.  The  car  is,  in  reality,  nothing 
more  than  a  long  wooden  box,  painted  yellow,  with  a 
roundish  shaped  roof;  a  door  at  each  end ;  and  a  row  of 
windows  at  each  side.  Outside  the  door,  is  a  small 
platform,  provided  with  a  flight  of  steps  on  each  side. 


r  account, 
je-delivery 
cities.  I 
:he  States 
arpet-bag, 
them  into 

istruction, 

ttendants, 

bear  but 

of  speed 
ir.      Two 

ordinary 
s  of  the 
excessive. 
;tured  for 
luch  less 
J  of  wood, 
ge  stacks 
►ugh  fiiel, 
j;  but  to 
is  placed 
y  damage 
e  engines 
k. 

!  railways 
ir'  by  the 
ppearance 
ar,  is  one 
travelling 
?  that  the 
'j  nothing 
V,  with  a 
i  a  row  of 
}  a  small 
3ach  side. 


RAILWAYS,  TELEGRAPHS,  AND  OTHER  THINGS.        335 

and  wMch  reaches  to  within  a  foot  of  the  ground.     The 
platfonn   is  guarded  by   an  outer  railing    excent  in 

form  to  platform,  along  the  whole  train.     Passengers, 
If   hey  ple.se,  may  also  perform  this  feat  while  the 

d^er"  LTh"^  .'"*  ''  ''  "°*  ^^**-d^d  with 
danger,    and    there    is    a    placard    within    the    cars 

cautiomng  persons  from  standing  on  the  platforms. 

So^r/        ''^?^"*  ^  *^^^  ^*^ri°^  organisation. 
Some  have  a  small  apartment  at  one  end  for  ladies  or 

nurses  with  children.     More  commonly,  they  con^So 

a  long  unbroken  sweep,  with  two  rows  of  seats,  and  a 

pathway  of  eighteen  inches  between.     Fully  seated  a 

car  should  hold  thirty  persons  on  each  si^forftok 

ot  sixty  •  but  allowing  space  for  a  stove,  the  number  is 

generaEy  fifty.six  or  fif^.eight;    and  My  e^;ped 

^'IJ^'p       .   '.  """'^  ^  '^  "^^*^  ^200   doUars,  or 
ft  V    T  ^r'"^^  *^^  narrowness  of  the  railway- 
track   I  often  wondered  how  these  cars  could  accom- 
modate  four   persons   in  the  breadth,  independently 
of  the  pathway  between  the  seats.     Space  is  obtained 
only  by  makmg  the  cars  overhang  the  track,  to  a" 
much  greater  extent  than  we  are  accustomed  to  in 
i^ngland     Mounted  on  two  swivel-trucks,  one  before 
a.d  another  behind,  each  with  four  wheds,  the  ca^ 
long  as  It  is,  turns  round  a  comer  with  the  ease  of 
a  gentleman^s  carriage;  by  which  contrivance,  in  sur- 
veying for  a  railway,  it  is  not  thought  necessary  to 
make  lon^  sweepmg  curves. 

Running,  as  has  been  mentioned,  right  through  cities 
and  across  highways,  with  no  other  protection  to  the 
pubhc  than  the  caution  to  'Look  out  for  the  locomotive 
when  the  bell  rings,^  it  is  matter  for  surprise  that 
so  few  accidents,  comparatively  speaking,  take  place, 
irernaps  somftthiTio-  is  /i««  +«  4.i.„     •..        .         ^  , 


m 


Perhaps  something  is  due  to  the  circu 


836 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


the  conductor  can  at  all  times  communicate  with  the 
engine-driver  by  means  of  a  cord,  which  is  confined 
like  a  bell-wire  along  the  ceiling  of  each  car,  and 
arranged  at  the  starting  of  the  trains.  Such  accidents 
as  occur,  arise  chiefly  from  carelessness;  and  it  was 
my  impression,  from  what  fell  under  my  notice,  that 
there  is  much  recklessness  in  the  management,  and  a 
general  indiffiBrence  to  regularity  or  safety. 

Candidly  considered,  the  American  railway-system 
has  many  imperfections.  Its  rude  arrangements, 
including  the  plan  of  making  no  distinction  in  the 
classes  of  travellers,  would  never  pass  muster  in  Europe. 
Nevertheless,  it  is  well  adapted  to  the  wants  of  the 
great  new  country  in  which  it  has  been  naturalised, 
and  Ye  may  expect  that  it  will  in  time  undergo  every 
desirable  improvement.  Already  the  most  gigantic 
efibrts  have  been  made  to  unite  the  chief  cities  on  the 
Atlantic  with  the  Valley  of  the  Mississippi  and  the  vast 
regions  westward  and  northward  from  it.  From  Port- 
land in  Maine,  Boston,  New  York,  Philadelphia,  and 
Baltimore,  lines  now  proceed  direct  to  the  interior, 
where  they  are  united  to  other  lines,  either  finished 
or  about  to  be  so,  by  which  a  traveller  may  reach  the 
principal  cities  in  Ohio,  Illinois,  Missouri,  and  Wis- 
consin. Joined  to  the  lines  now  constructed,  and 
forming  in  Canada,  the  north  wiU  be  thoroughly  laid 
open  for  settlement;  and  connected  with  a  line  pro- 
ceeding southwards  from  Illinois,  traffic  will  be  opened 
up  on  the  one  hand  with  Mobile  and  New  Orleans,  and 
on  the  other,  with  the  regions  bordering  on  Lakes 
Huron  and  Superior.  The  next  steps  are  to  reach 
Oregon  and  California ;  and  the  maimer  in  which  such 
extensions  are  to  be  executed  now  engages  earnest  con- 
sideration. The  most  urgently  called  for  of  these  lines 
is  that  to  California,  by  a  pass  through  the  Rocky 
Mountains ;  and  when  this  is  efiected,  it  ^vill  be  possible 


with  the 
confined 
car,  and 
accidents 
id  it  was 
tice,  that 
nt,  and  a 

ly-system 
igements, 
»n  in  the 
1  Europe, 
ts  of  the 
ituralised, 
rgo  every 

gigantic 
es  on  the 
i  the  vast 
'om  Port- 
phia,  and 

interior, 
•  finished 
reach  the 
md  Wis- 
:ted,  and 
ighly  laid 
line  pro- 
3e  opened 
leans,  and 
on  Lakes 
to  reach 
hich  such 
nest  con- 
hese  lines 
le  Rocky 
e  possible 


RAILWAYS,  TELEGRAPHS,  AND  OTHER  THINGS.        337 

to  reach  San  Francisco  in  four  days  from  New  York 
and  by  the  additional  means  of  steam-vessels,  to  go 
round  the  world  in  three  months.  Traversing  from  the 
borders  of  the  Mississippi  to  San  Francisco/a  coun^S 

^hn^TrK  '";  ;f  ^'  '^'  ^'  ^'^"^^^  b^  undertake! 
without  liberal  aid  from  government.  We  may  venture 
to  hope  this  will  not  be  refused;  for  on  no  more  noble 
object  could  the  overplus  public  funds  be  employed, 
than  m  uniting  by  railway  the  Atlantic  with  the  Pacific 
and  so  pouring  across  America  the  copious  stream  of 
i^uropean  and  Asiatic  commerce. 

From  the  great,    though    still    imperfect,    railwav 
orgamsatxon  of  the  States,  we  obtain  but  an  inadequate 
Idea  ot  the  mdomitable  energy  of  the  people,  and  the 
mighty  field  over  which  they  direct  their  enterprise 
I      .nT^  ^""^  "'^'^'  navigation,  extending  over  more* 
than  1(^000  mUes,  is  in  itself  a  wonder ;   and  in"h"' 
as  m  all  other  affairs,  private  enterprise  greatly  excels 
the   operations    of   the    government.     In    truth    the 
government,  with  a  multiplicity  of  interests  to 'con- 
ciliate, and  naturally  weak  in  its   authority,   is  left 
comply  behind  in  the  race  of  public  improvement. 
ihe  fact  of  there  being,  in  1852,  maU-routes  to  the 
aggregate  length  of  214,284  mHes,  and  post-offices  to 
the  number  of  20,901,  is  outshone  by  the  statistics  of 
the  express-system  for  forwarding  parcels,  money  &c 
Conducted    by    private    individuals    and    companies* 
and    origmating   only  about   twelve    years    ago,    the 
vanous    express-houses    are    the    goods    and    money 
carriers  of  the  Union,  and  have  now  agencies  in  every 
part  of  the  States  and  Canada;  one  company  alone 
employing  1500  men,  and  its  dispatches  travelling  not 
less  than  25,000  miles  per  diem. 

The  system  of  intercommunication  is  completed  by 
the  operations  of  the  telegraph  companies.  In  the 
states,  tiixee  kiuds  of  telegraphs  are  employed— those 


838 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


of  Morse,  House,  and  Bain;  the  diflFerence  between 
them  being  maiidy  the  method  of  indication.  That 
which  came  chiefly  under  my  notice,  was  the  plan  of 
printing  the  messages  on  a  narrow  slip  of  paper. 
Unitedly,  the  various  telegraphic-systems  pervade  the 
entire  region  between  the  Atlantic  and  the  Mississippi, 
and  from  Nova  Scotia  and  Canada  to  New  Orleans. 
The  number  of  miles  of  telegraph  in  the  States  is 
now  about  20,000,  and  in  Canada,  and  other  British 
possessions,  from  2000  to  3000.  The  wires  are  carried 
along  the  sides  of  the  railways,  across  fields  and 
rivers,  through  forests,  and  in  cities  they  may  be  seen 
crossing  the  streets  and  the  tops  of  the  houses.  From 
New  York,  two  lines  proceed  south  to  New  Orleans : 
one  by  way  of  Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  Washington, 
and  Charleston,  making  a  length  of  1966  miles;  the 
other  runs  from  Cleveland,  on  Lake  Ontario,  by 
Cincinnati  and  Nashville,  being  a  length  of  1200 
miles.  Messages  connected  with  markets,  the  rise 
and  fall  of  stocks,  news  from  Europe,  and  other  matters 
of  public  news,  are  staple  communications ;  but  so  small 
a  price  is  charged,  that  there  is  also  a  large  amount 
of  miscellaneous  correspondence.  A  message  of  ten 
words,  for  example,  may  be  sent  from  Washington  to 
St  Louis — a  distance  of  989  miles — for  1  dollar  20 
cents.  Under  200  miles,  the  charge  is  about  a  cent 
per  word.  It  is  stated  on  good  authority,  that  on 
some  lines  as  many  as  700  messages  are  sent  in  one 
day.  So  rapid  is  the  transit,  that  the  news  brought  to 
New  York  by  a  European  steamer,  at  eight  o'clock  a.  m., 
has  been  telegraphed,  by  way  of  Cincinnati,  to  New 
Orleans,  and  the  effects  there  produced  on  the  market 
returned  to  New  York  by  eleven  o'clock — ^being  a 
circuit  of  nearly  4000  miles  in  three  hours. 

The    amount    of    telegraphic    business    is    largely 
increased  b'^  the  number  of  dis'natches  for  the  "oress. 


I  between 
n.  That 
le  plan  of 
of  paper, 
srvade  the 
[ississippi, 
r  Orleans. 
States  ia 
er  British 
,re  carried 
ields  and 
ly  be  seen 
3s.  From 
'  Orleans: 
ashington, 
ailes ;  the 
itario,  by 
of  1200 
the  rise 
er  matters 
it  so  small 
je  amount 
ge  of  ten 
lington  to 
dollar  20 
>ut  a  cent 
,  that  on 
nt  in  one 
wrought  to 
jlock  A.  M., 
i,  to  New 
he  market 
—being   a 


KAILWAYS,  TELEOBAPHS,  AND  OTHER  THINGS.       339 

ma    ^         '  /™"^  *^  y<"^  ™<>i°g  l«t  November 
852,   dispensed,    unitedly  or  as  Mviduals,   M  OW 

dollars  for  dispatehes  and  special  and  e«l„s We  me^ 
are  sold  for  a  penny  each.     Such  an  expenditure  could 

"cui:«::vrh"™™'' ""'  '<"  *^  ~-  "^  *« 

eu-culation  of  these  papers-the  daily  issue  of  some  of 

of  suchTf  7Tv  "l^"^'"^  "°P'--  '"•«  -»  ion 
s^hof  ilwr'  ^''  """'■'''  "  iteelf  a  testimony  to  the 
trnl^  i^r  "T!"^  ^'"*  ^t""'  *e  press  of 
the  United  States.  It  i,  only,  indeed,  after  being  a 
httle  time  m  that  country,  that  we  gain  »  proper  idea 
of  the  extent  to  which  the  business  ofVwlaper 
publication  may  be  carried,  when  Hberated  from  mono- 
poV,  and  left  entirely  to  public  enteirrise.     I  sZX 

authority,*  when  I  say,  that  on  the  1st  of  June  1850 
aere  were  in  the  United  States  350  daily  newspapei.; 
with  an  aggregate  eu^culatiou  of  750,000  conies  •  a^ 

Sooo'"""  ""'^'  '^^^''^ '"  the:^:ga: 

2^875,000  copies,  and  that  altogether,  including  semi- 
Trin^^'  ^-""f^y'  """thly,  &c.,  there  were  2800 
pnnts,  with  a  total  aggregate  circulation  of  5,000,000 
The  number  of  newspapers  printed  dming  the  year 
which  then  expu-ed,  amounted  to  422,600,000  copies 
-a  fact  which  throws  more  light  on   the  freedom 

adT^cr^       '"  ^^^   ^""^  *°y  *'*"'■  I  ^-Jd 

♦  AlMrael  o/SevaM  Cemus.     Wasliington :  1858. 


is   largely 
the  'iress. 


CHAPTER    XX. 

GENERAL     OBSERVATIONS. 

Limited  as  had  been  my  excursion  and  opportunities 
of  observation,  the  broad  fact  was  sufficiently  impressed 
on  my  mind,  that  the  people  of  England  know  but 
little  of  America,  while  that  little  is  disfigured  by 
certaii  prejudices  and  misapprehensions.  Travellers 
have,  for  the  most  part,  dealt  so  unkindly  by  the 
Americans,  that  I  was  imprepared  for  much  that 
came  in  my  way  of  a  nature  that  can  be  spoken  of  only 
with  respect.  Their  energetic  industry,  perseverance, 
and  enterprise;  the  tastefulness  of  their  dwellings, 
and  (with  one  unfortunate  exception)  the  cleanliness 
and  good  government  of  their  cities;  their  patriotism 
and  independence  of  sentiment;  their  temperance; 
their  respect  for  women;  their  systems  of  popular 
education;  their  free  and  untaxed  press;  their  sponta- 
neous yet  ample  support  of  the  ordinances  of  religion,* 
as  well  as  of  every  variety  of  beneficiary  institution 
— all  seemed  to  me  to  merit   commendation,  and  to 

♦  In  1850,  there  were  in  the  United  States  36,011  churches,  with  an 
aggregate  accommodation  for  13,849,896  persons;  and  the  total  value  of 
church  property  was  86,416,639  dollars.  The  Methodists,  Baptists,  Presby- 
terians, and  Episcopalians,  were  the  most  numerous  bodies.  As  regards 
education :  in  1850,  nearly  4,000,000  of  young  persons  were  receiving 
instruction  in  the  various  educational  institutions  of  the  country,  or  at  the 
rate  of  1  in  every  6  free  persons ;  the  teachers  numbered  more  than 
115,000  ;  and  the  colleges  and  schools  nearly  100,000 — their  support  being 
chiefly  from  legally  imposed  rates. 


I 


)rtunities 
mpressed 
now  but 
fured  by 
^avellers 
r  by  the 
icb  that 
n  of  only 
everance, 
Iwellings, 
canliness 
atriotism 
iperance ; 
popular 
r  sponta- 
religion,* 
istitution 
L,  and  to 

les,  with  an 
ital  value  of 
ists,  Presby- 

As  regards 
sre  receiving 
ry,  or  at  the 

more  than 
upport  being 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS.  341 

overbalance  greatly  such  imperfections  as  have  been 
fastened  upon  and  exaggerated  in  the  descriptions 
presented  by  tourists. 

Undeniably,  the  personal  manners  of  the  Americans 
do  not,  in  ^^eneral,  come  up  to  the  standard  established 
in   England.      In    ordinary    circumstances,    we    miss 

W  V    r!,     ,  '"?''   P°^*^    observances    of   Europe; 
but   the    blank    does    not    represent    an    unmitigated 
loss.     We  are  not  encumbered  with  the  formalities  of 
an  mexorable  etiquette;   nor  do  we  see  that  stiffness 
ot  manner  m  the  general  intercourse   between   class 
and  class,  which  is  stamped  on  English  society.     The 
hauteur  of  rank  is  totaUy  unknown,  nor  would  it  be 
tolerated.      In    the    absence    of   hereditary  honours, 
opulence  and  refinement  create  distinctions;  but  these 
are  simply  respected,  not  worshipped.     We  all  know 
of  course,  that  ordinary  politeness,  or  graciousness  of 
manner  IS  a  different  thing  from  servility;  and  there 
can  be  little  doubt  that,  as  America  grows  older,  and 
competition  becomes  more  intense,  a  proper  perception 
ot  tins  not  unimportant  truth  will   be  more  widely 
spread  and  acted  on.  ^ 

If  the  less-cultivated  Americans  be  as  yet  faulty  in 
this  respect,  their  shortcomings  are  obviously  traceable 
to  the  great  breadth  of  field  over  which  they  exercise  a 
command.     Happy  in  not  being  cribbed  and  confined 
mthm  a  town,  or  even  a  spacious  district,  they  can 
choose  their  locality  over  more  than  thirty  states;  and 
It  one  place  does  not  come  up  to  expectations,  they  can 
resort  to   another.     Neither  do  they  feel  themselves 
mdissolubly  tied  to  any  particular  profession.     I  was 
frequently    assured    that    no    man   in    the    States    is 
damaged  by  a  change  from  one  line  of  industry  to 
another     Every  trade  is  open  to  everybody;  and  as, 
from  the  general  diffusion  of  education,  every  one  is 
prepared  to  do  his  duty  creditahlv.  1ip  ia  t^yoc, — a  ^^ 


342 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


be  able  to  turn  his  hand  to  almost  anything.  Hence, 
the  restlessness  of  the  American  character.  Attach- 
ment to  locality  is  scarcely  known;  and  shifting  from 
place  to  place,  a  thousand  miles  at  a  stretch,  with  a 
view  to  bettering  the  condition,  seems  to  be  an  ordinary 
occurrence.  There  is,  in  fact,  an  immense  internal 
migration.  New  England  is  continually  throwing  off 
swarms  towards  the  newly  opened  territories  and 
states  in  the  far  West;  the  latest  manifestation  of 
this  kind  being  the  movement  of  a  colony  of 
settlers  from  Massachusetts  to  the  newly  organised 
state  of  Nebraska. 

The  abundance  of  all  material  comforts,  may  perhaps 
be  mentioned  as  a  cause  of  the  occasionally  rude  in- 
dependent bearing  which  falls  under  notice.  No  such 
indication  of  fulness  exists  in  England.  Straitened  in 
circumstances,  and  burdened  with  taxation,  but  with 
a  conventional  necessity  for  keeping  up  appearances, 
a  large  proportion  of  our  middle  classes  requii'e  to  be 
exceedingly  frugal  in  the  consumption  of  articles  of 
domestic  use.  A  person  accustomed  to  shifts  of  this 
nature,  is  astonished  at  the  profusion  at  table  in  all 
quarters  of  America.  There  is,  at  least,  no  stinting 
as  to  food.  It  was  often  pressed  on  my  notice,  that 
the  hired  labourers  in  the  fields  are  provided  with 
better  fare  than  falls  to  the  lot  of  thousands  of  the 
'genteer  classes  in  England. 

In  no  part  of  America  did  I  see  any  beggars  or 
ragged  vagrants;  and  except  in  New  York,  the  con- 
dition of  which  is  exceedingly  anomalous,  I  did  not 
observe  any  drunkenness — there  having  been,  as  I 
imderstood,  a  great  reform  in  this  particular.  I  should 
say  that,  independently  of  the  'Maine  Law,'  public 
opinion  on  the  su])ject  of  drinking-usages  is  consider- 
ably in  advance  of  that  of  England.  My  belief,  however, 
is,  that  owing  to  pecidiarities  of  climate,  there  is  less 


Hence, 
Attach- 
ing from 
,  -with  a 
ordinary 
internal 
•wing  off 
ries  and 
tation  of 
»lony  of 
)rganised 

'■  perhaps 
rude  in- 
No  such 
itened  in 
but  with 
earances, 
ire  to  he 
:i;icle8  of 
3  of  this 
le  in  all 
stinting 
;ice,  that 
led  with 
[a  of  the 

ggars  or 
the  con- 
did  not 
n,  as  I 
I  should 
/  public 
consider- 
however, 
L'e  is  less 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS.  343 

desire  to  partake  of  stimulants,  and  less  immunity  from 
the  consequences  of  an  excessive  use  of  them,  than  in 
the  humid   atmosphere   of  northern   Europe.      Other 
things    struck    me   favourably.      I   observed  that   aU 
classes  were  weU   dressed.     My  attention  was  called 
to  the  fact,   that  when    operatives   had  finished  the 
labours    of   the    day,    they    generaUy    changed    their 
garments,  and  were  as  neatly  attired  as  those  in  higher 
stations.     It  was   also  observable  that  mechanics,  in 
good   employment      occupy  better  houses,  pay  higher 
rents,  and  dress  i    xT  T\dves  and  families  better,  than 
is  usual  in  England  or  Scotlnud;  that  they,  in  short, 
aim  at  living  in  greater  respectability;  and  in  doing 
so,  necessarily  avoid  such  indulgences  as  would  iraprot 
perly  absorb  their  means.     It  was  agreeable  to  note, 
that  the  Enghsh  language  is  everywhere  spoken  well! 
I   heard  no  patois,   no   local  dialect.      The   tone   of 
speech  was  uniform,  though  more  nasal  in  some  parts 
of  New  England  than  in  other  places. 

In  forming  an  opinion  of  a  country,  much  depends 
on  the  point  from  which  it  is  viewed.     The  point  of 
view  for  America,  as  it  appears  to  me,  is  America  itself. 
To  look  at  it  with  Enghsh  eyes  and  English  expecta- 
tions, is  surely  unwise.     Hopeless  would  it  be  for  any 
one  fresh  from  the  old  country  to  look  for  magnificent 
gentlemen's    seats,    fine    lawns,    beautiful   hedgerows, 
adniirable  roads,  superb  carriages,  old-settled  usages  and 
institutions,  and  that  artificiahty  of  manner  which  in 
England   has  required   a  thousand  years   to  mature. 
We  must  take  America  as  it  is,  and  make  the  best  of 
it.     It  is  a  new,  and,  as  yet,  not  fully  settled  country; 
and,  all  things  considered,  has  done  wonders  during  its 
short  progress.     No  one  can  forget  that,  except  in  the 
case  of  Virginia,  and  one  or  two  other  places,  it  has 
been  peopled  by  the  more  humble,  or,  at  all  events, 
struggUug  classes  of  European  society.    The  aristocracv 


!>   i 


844 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


of  England  have  shrunk  from  it.  Instead  of  acting 
as  leaders,  and  becoming  the  heroes  of  a  new  world, 
they  have  left  the  high  honour  of  founding  commu- 
nities throughout  America  to  groups  of  miscellaneous 
individuals,  who  at  least  possessed  the  spirit  to  cross 
the  Atlantic  in  quest  of  fortune,  rather  than  sink 
into  pauperism  at  home. 

The  proper  aspect,  therefore,  in  which  to  view 
America,  is  that  of  a  field  for  the  reception  of  emigrants. 
It  was  thus  I  beheld  it ;  and  from  aU  that  came  under 
my  notice,  I  am  bound  to  recommend  it  as  a  new 
home  to  all  whose  hearts  and  hands  are  disposed  to 
labour,  and  who,  for  the  sake  of  future  prospects,  as 
regards  themselves  and  families,  are  willing  to  make 
a  prqsent  sacrifice.  To  all  classes  of  married  manual 
labourers,  the  United  States  and  Canada  offer  a 
peculiarly  attractive  field;  not  so  much  so,  however, 
from  the  higher  rates  of  remuneration,  as  the  many 
opportunities  for  advantageously  making  investments, 
and  by  that  means  greatly  improving  their  circum- 
stances. This,  indeed,  is  the  only  point  worth  pressing 
on  notice.  In  England,  the  operative  having  scarcely 
any  means  of  disposing  of  small  savings  to  advantage 
— the  interest  of  the  savings-bank  forming  no  adequate 
temptation — ^he  rarely  economises,  but  recklessly  spends 
aU  his  oarLLings,  of  whatever  amount,  on  present  indul- 
gences. It  is  vain,  I  fear,  to  try  to  con\dncc  him  of 
this  folly.  Practically,  he  is  without  hope ;  and,  unin- 
structed,  he  does  not  reflect  on  consequences.  In 
America,  on  the  contrary,  everything  contributes  to 
excite  his  higher  emotions.  The  sentiment  of  hope  is 
stimulated  in  an  extraordinary  degree.  In  the  more 
newly  settled  cities  and  townships,  so  many  bargains 
may  be  had  of  small  portion?,  of  land,  which  may 
probably,  in  a  year  or  two  hence,  be  sold  for  many 
times  the   oricrinal    cost,    that  there   is   the    "reateat 


of  acting 
ew  world, 
<;  commu- 
3ellaneous 
to  cross 
;haii   sink 


to  view 
jmigrants. 
me  under 


as  a  new 
sposed  to 
spects,  as 

to  make 
d  manual 
I   offer    a 

however, 
ihe  many 
estments, 
r  circum- 
i  pressing 
;  scarcely 
idvantage 

adequate 
Qy  spends 
;nt  indul- 
:e  him  of 
nd,  unin- 
ces.  In 
ibutes  to 
>i*  hope  is 
the  more 

bargains 
lich  may 
for  many 

greatest 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS.  345 

possible  reason  for  economising  and  becoming  capital- 
ists. The  saved  twenty  dollars  of  to-day  may,  by  a 
judicious  investment,  be  shortly  a  hundred,  nay  a 
thousand,  doUars;  so  that,  with  a  reasonable  degree 
of  prudence,  a  person  in  humble  circumstances  rises 
by  rapid  and  sure  strides  to  fortune. 

I  feel  assured  that  this  tends  to  explain  the  superior 
character  of  the  American  workman.     In  coming  down 
Lake    St    Clair   in   a   steamer,   there  was   on  board 
a    Canadian    settler,    who    had   some  years   ago  left 
Scotland,  and  was  now  in  the  enjoyment  of  a  pleasant 
and  thriving  farm   on  the  banks   of  the  lake.      On 
conversing   with   him  respecting  his   affairs,   he  told 
me  th-t   all  the  time  he  was  in  the   Old  Country, 
he    never  felt   any  inducement  to   save;    for  it  was 
a  dreary  thing  to  look  forward  to  the  accumulation 
of  a  shiUing  or  two   a  week,   with   no  prospect  of 
trading  on  the  amount,  and  only  at  the  end  of  his 
days    having    a   few    poimds    in    the    savings-bank. 
'But  here,'  said   he,  ^with   a  saving  of  two   dollars 
we  can  buy  an  acre  oi  land,  and  may,  perhaps,  sell  it 
again  afterwards  for  ten  doUars;    and  this  kind  of 
thing  makes  us  aU  very  careful.'     Did  not  this  man's 
explanation  solve  the  problem  which  now  engages  the 
attention  of  writers  on  social  economy?     Did  it  not 
go  far  towards  elucidating  the  cause  of  so  much  of 
our  intemperance—the  absence  of  hope?     The  native 
American,    however,    possesses    advantages    over    the 
immigrant.    With  inteUigence  sharpened  by  education, 
he  is   better   able  to  take  advantage  of  all  available 
means  of  improvement   in  liis  condition;   the  press 
rouses  him  with  its  daily  stimulus ;  the  law  interposes 
no  impediment  of  taxes  and  embarrassing  forms  on 
the  transfer  of  property;  the  constitution   offers  him 
the  prospect  of  rising  to  a  position  of  public   confi- 
dence;    no   overshadowing   influence    weighs    on    his 


n4n 


TUlNdH  An  TttPlY  AUK  IN  AMUiHlCA. 


'i  i 


li  f 


\l 


f;iMni8;  he  m  socially  nud  politionlly  Ave;  Ins  wholo 
looln.^-8,  i\x)u.  lunhood.  luivo  hwu  Muw  ol"  a  iv«|mn. 
mhUi  and  Hcir-.vlinnt  luMug.  mIio  luUs  l,,«l  nnu-h  to 
gain  h\  <l;c  oxcivino  ordiRoiviion. 

ir  I   may  uw  (ho  cxpiVHsion,  thow  is  n  s/mtffmwih/ 
in   udl-domg  in   Aniorica.     In  tlio  rin-nniNiaiu-cM  \uk 
ivhMMvd  (,>.  men  ooiuluot  tlioiuw^lvoM  propcM-ly,  brnuiso  if, 
IS  natural  lor  thoni  to  d,)  so;  „nd  from  (I'lo  uspcvt,  of 
tlu)  Aniorioau  opcM-ativo-HasHrs,  I  „m  dispo.srd  to  think 
tl.oy    uouhl    tod    HlVrontod    i.i   hoiuK  n.ado  oI.j.vIm   of 
PjHMMal  f.olu'iln,lo  by  thoso  in  a  n.oro  atllnoni  condition. 
I«>  spoak  plainly,   uliy  should  ono  class  of  pcM's -mm  in 
a  connnnnily   iV(puro  ronslantly  to  havo  ih(>  tin.  kin^ 
done  for  thoni  by   another  clans?      1    an.  alVaid,   that 
Mhcnncr  such  appears  necessary,  as  in  Mnfrhnul,  there 
IS  sonuihit.o-  so,Mally  dclcclive.     'Phe  wlmle  tendency  ol* 
institutional    arran?>cn.cnts   in    Anicrica,    as   has   lieeii 
Bhewn,  is  to  evoke  Ici^lings  of  sclt-rcliaiuv.     A  contrary 
tendency  still  pnnails  io  a  large  extent  in  (Ireat  Mritaiil, 
where,  fi'oni  causes  which  it  is  unnecessary  to  re<>apiln' 
latc,  the  lnnnbl(>r  classes  nvjuire  to  be  ininistered  to 
and  thought  tor,  as  if  they  were  children.     \Vt^  nnist 
contrive  nicans  tor  annising  then.,  and  keeping-  tl.tM.i 
out    of    tnischier;    call    n.e(>tings  to    get  np   reading- 
mnns,    baths,    wash-lKuises,    m.d    ten.p(«ra.iee    eollcc- 
Ijouscs    tor   them ;    oiler   prizes  to  those  among^  them 
who  will  keep  the  neatcMt  houses   and    gardens;    and 
ni  so  many  uays  busy  om-sclvcs  about  them,  that  at 
lengtb  it  would  see...  as  if  it  were  the  duty  of  one-half 
the  connnnnity  to  tl.i.ik  for  the  other,     'h.o  spcvtaclo 
of  well-educated,    thoughtlul.    independent    An.erica, 
enabled  me  to  see  thi'o..gii  the  fallacy  of  lirst  disabling 
a  mnn  fn)m  thinking  and  acting-  for  himself,  and  then 
trying  to  fortity  him  by  a  system  of  W(^ll-meant,  b.it 
really  r„orvating  patronage.     It  is  son.ethi..g  to  have 
to  say  of  the  United  States,  that  the  mecliauics  and 


ClKNI'lH/M,  OIIHRHVATIONS. 


n47 


\m  whole 

ft    I't'KpOll- 

nmch  to 

brcnuMo  it, 
'  HHprt'l,  (tl* 
(I  to  think 
ob'n'ctm  of 
ooiulition. 
pcrs -MM  ill 
'  tliihking 
Vnid,  that 
inul,  thtM'o 
luhMU'y  oC 
ht\H   hvvn 

i.  contrary 
it  Jtritain, 
'  rci'apitu- 
iHtcrod  to 
Wo  nniNt 
mif4"  <l«(Mn 
rcaxling- 
0  c'on'dr- 
)n^^  thoni 


'\\H 


and 


I,  that  at 
'  oiio-hair 
Hpoctachi 
Aniorioa, 
(iia'iblinp; 
auil  then 
i^ant,  l)ut 
;  to  havo 
lilies  and 


rural  hihoinws  ol'  that  c(Hintry  do  not  rnjinro  to  bo 
pntroniHod. 

Tho    porHotiH    ill    An«ori(;a   who    Hrrnird   to   tnn   to 
merit  conipaHmon  niowt,  wrrn  not  tho  poor,  lor  of  tiioHn 
thcMo  arn  not  many,  cxcrpt  in  n  fnw  hirfrc  citirs:  thowo 
who  am  to  bo  pitied,  ,iro  tho  rioh.     Obtaining  wealth 
by  ft  (-onr«o   of  Huc(TWf.|'nl   indnwtry,   it  would   nppoMr 
mi  if  thcro  wore  no  other  ineaiiM  of  Hpendinfr  it  than 
in  fearing  F«plendid   nunmionH,  and  rnrniwhinK  them  in 
ft   style   of  Orieid-al    luxiuy,   and    thereafter  livinK   •»> 
Korgeourt  miiH;nirie("ne(>,    liko   the    prinee-merehantM   of 
(lenoa  in  the  past  times  of  Itidian  glory.     Ho  far  a« 
the  aeluiil   fonnderH  of  fortini(«H  are  eoneerned,   there 
is,  |)erha|)H,  little  to  diseonunend   in   all   tliim;    but  it 
wiiH  (liHagreeably  preHsed  on  my  notie(%  that  the  Rons 
of  theMo  millionairoB,  born   to  do  nothing  bnt  to  live 
cm    their    father'rt   earnings,   were   mneh    to  be  pitied. 
In  Mew  York,  they  were  seen  lomifring  nbcnit  idly  in 
tho   jmrloin-N  and    bar  rooms  of  the  hoti^ls,   worn  out 
with  dissipation,  and  the  nightly  victims  of  gnnd)ling- 
iiouses,  of  which  tiunu^  are  n,  nnmbcr  in   Hroadway  on 
ft  BVA\h  of  nnitchless  splendour.     Among  the  vices  they 
iiave   hdrly    thought   lit  to   introduce,  is   tho  practice, 
now  obsoh'te   in    lOngland,  of  c-rjcouniging  profcp'Rlonal 
j)UgiliHm,   the  exercise  of  which   occ-asiomdly   leads  to 
serious   affrays.      In    (Ireat  Mritain,  as   we  all    know, 
ft  eonsiderabh;  part  of  the  fortmies  realiHiul    in   trade 
is  expended  in  the  punihase  of  hind,  and  in  effecting 
rural  improvemenf;s  of  various  kinds;  the  ('oiintry,  by 
sueh  means,  beeoming  a  luteful  engiiK!  of  dcplcti()n  to 
the  town;    but  in  America,,  land   conveys  no  honour, 
ftnd  is  not  bought  except  as  a  temporary  investnumt, 
or  as  a  wmrce  of  livelihood.     Wealthy  men,  therefore, 
would   have  nothing  to   look  for  in  rural  life   beyond 
the  ideasure  of  a  villa;  no  hv  ns  1  could  learn,  tlu^y 
(h)  not  oven  go  that  length,  but  eonHirmo  their  means. 


l|] 


348 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


for  the  most  part,  in  the  more  seductive  but  not 
very  refining  enjoyments  of  the  city.  With  few 
exceptions,  therefore,  families  of  any  note  do  not  con- 
tinue m  affluence  more  than  one  or  two  generations. 
An  'old  family'  in  America,  must  ever  be  a  kind  of 
miracle.  The  principle  which  seems  to  be  laid  down 
IS,  that  family  distinction  is  adverse  to  democratic 
mstitutions;  and  that,  consequently,  each  generation 
ought  to  be  left  to  shift  for  itself-a  philosophic  rule, 
no  doubt,  but  which,  like  many  other  good  maxims, 
18  not  without  practical  difficulties. 

Leaving  the  wealthier  classes  of  New  York  to  dis- 
cover, if  they  can,  what  is  the  use  of  money  after  they 
have  made  it,  it  is  more  to  my  purpose  to  call  attention 
to  the  advantages  which  America  presents  as  an  outlet 
lor  the  reaundant  and  partially  impoverished  classes 
of  the   United   Kingdom.      When   i   reflect   on  the 
condition  of   the  rural   labourers  in  many  parts   of 
Great    Britain    and    Ireland-the    poorness    of  their 
living;  their  generaUy  wretched  dweUings;   the  little 
pams   taken  to   afford  them  an   education   calculated 
to  excite  their  better  feehngs;   their  blank  prospects 
as  to  old  age;   and  when  I  consider  that,  mthin  a 
short    distance,    there    is    a    country    inviting    their 
settlement,    where    they    can    scarcely  fail    to    attain 
a  position   of  comfort   and  respectability,   I  am  sur- 
prised that  the  'exodus,'  great  as  it  is,  is  not  many 
times  greater— in  fact,   the   astonishing  thing,   as   it 
appears  to  me,  is,  how  under  present  circumstances  any 
at  all  remain.*  ^ 

*  On  «^e  day  on  which  this  was  mitten,  I  saw,  seated  on  the  ground  by 
he  side  of  a  road  m  Seotland,  a  party  of  ploughmen  and  female  field-workers 

of  peasomeal,  milk  di-ank  from  a  bottle,  and  morsels  of  meagre  cheese.     Could 
1  avoid  o,-,wing  a  comparison  between  vhis  hard  lot,  and  that  of  the  well- 

UnUed'st  t""  P'^'""'"""^    ''^°"''"''    ^   ^"'"   ^'''^''    '^''''^''    '""^   "^« 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS. 


349 


e   but   not 

With   few 

lo  not  con- 

jenerations. 

!  a  kind  of 

laid  down 

democratic 

generation 

iophic  rule, 

»d  maxims, 

Drk  to  dis- 

'  after  they 

il  attention 

9  an  outlet 

led  classes 

ct   on  the 

'■  parts   of 

3    of  their 

the  little 

calculated 

prospects 

within  a 

ing    their 

to    attain 

'  am  sur- 

not  many 

ng,   as   it 

;ances  any 


lie  ground  by 
field-workers 
irse  bannocks 
leese.  Could 
;  of  the  well- 
Ja,    and   the 


Perhaps  part  of  the  rcluc lance  to  remove  to  America 
is  due  to  fears  on  the  scorn  of  health.    Peculiar  in  some 
respects,   the  climate   of  those  northern   and   middle 
regions  to  which  emigran^^s  usually  direct  their  course, 
need  not,  however,  be  the  subject  of  apprehension.    The 
most  remarkable  peculiarity  of  the   air,  as  has  been 
abeady  hinted,  is  its  dryness.     The  prevailing  westerly 
winds,  coming  over  thousands  of  miles  of  land,  lose 
their  moisture  before  reaching  the  more  settled  regions 
in  the  east,   and  are  felt  to  be  thin  and  desiccating. 
Except  in  swampy  districts,  damp  in  any  form  is  un- 
known,    loisture  being  almost  immediately  absorbed. 
Newly  plastered  houses  are  dry  enough  to  be  inhabited 
a  day  or  two  after  being  finished.     Clothes  put  out 
to  dry,  need  to  hang  but  a  short  time.     In  writing, 
I   observed  that   the  ink   dried   in  half  the   time   it 
would  have  required  to  do  so  in  England.     That  such 
properties  in  the  atmosphere  have  an  injurious  effect 
on  the  constitution,  is  more  than  probable;  at  least,  I 
observed  that  the  people  generally  were  less  florid  in 
complexion,  and  less  robust,  than  the  English.     At  the 
same  time,  it  was  my  conviction,  especially  as  regards 
females,  that  much  more  injury  is  done  to  health  in 
Canada  and  the  States  by  the  overheating  of  apartments 
with   stoves,  than  by  the  aridity  of  the  atmosphere. 
From  statistical  inquiry,  it  does  not,  however,  appear 
that  life  is  to  any  appreciable  degree  less  valuable  in 
the  northern  and  middle  parts  of  the  States  than  it  is 
in  England — the  damage  which  may  be  done  by  the 
dryness  of  the  air  and  the  extremes  of  temperature 
being,    as    it    were,    balanced    by   the    unwholesome 
influences  of  our  atmospheric  humidity.     Settlers  in 
Canada,  with  whom  I  conversed  on  the  subject,  gave 
the  preference  to  the  American  climate,  on   accoimt 
not  only  of  its  pleasantly  exhilarating  properties,  but 
of  its   equable  character.     It   is  proper  to  say,  that 


360 


il 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


1 1 »  j 


[in 


there  may  be  some  danger  in  proceeding  to  America 
during  tlie  extreme  heats  of  summer;  and  I  would, 
on  this  account,  recommend  travellers  not  to  quit 
England  before  August,  from  which  time  till  December 
the  weather  is  temperate  and  agreeable.  Crossing  the 
Atlantic  in  spring,  during  the  prevalence  of  icebergs, 
is  particularly  to  be  avoided. 

Fears  have   been   sometimes  entertained,   that  the 
constant  influx  of  a  large  and  generally  uninstructed 
class  of  foreigners,  more  particularly  Irish,  must  have 
a  tendency  to   disorganise   the   institutional   arrange- 
ments   of   the    States,   and    even   lower  the   tone   of 
society.     Great,  however,  as  is  the  flood  of  immigrants, 
not  of  the  most  enlightened  kind,  it  does  not  appear 
thatithcy  exercise  any  deteriorating  influences,  or  are  in 
any  respect  troublesome,  except  in  New  York  and  other 
large  seats  of  population.     Scattering  themselves  over 
the  country,  they  are,  for  the  most  part,  lost  in  the 
general  community,  and  soon  acquire  the  sentiments 
of  self-respect    common  to   the  American   character. 
The  change  is  remarkable  in  the  case  of  the  Irish. 
Attaching  themselves  to  such  employments  as,  without 
risk,  bring  in  small  sums  of  ready  uioney,  they  are 
found  to  be  a  saving  and  most  useful  class  of  people, 
with  tastes  and  aspirations  considerably  different  from 
those  they  formerly  possessed.     Altering  so  far,  they 
may  almost   be  said  to  be  more  Americanised  than 
the    Americans;    for    they    signalise    themselves    by 
saying  hard  things  of  the  Old  Country,  and  if  not  the 
most  inveterate,  are,  at  least,  the  moat  noisy  of  its 
enemies.     In  the  second  generation,  however — thanks 
to  the  universal  system  of  education— the  Irishman  has 
disappeared.     Associating  in  and  out  of  school  with  the 
shi-ewd  native  youth— laughed,  if  not  instructed,  out  of 
prejudices — the  children  of  Irish  descent  have  generally 
lost  the  distinctive  marks  of  their  ori«3-iii. 


0  America 
i  I  would, 
)t  to  quit 

December 
•ossing  the 
f  icebergs, 

that  the 
linstructed 
must  have 
[  arrange- 
e  tone  of 
amigrants, 
lot  appear 
I,  or  are  in 
and  other 
lelves  over 
3st  in  the 
sentiments 
character, 
the  Irish. 
IS,  without 

they  are 
of  people, 
!rent  from 

far,  they 
lised  than 
selves  by 
if  not  the 
isy  of  its 
r — thanks 
ihman  has 

1  %vith  the 
;ed,  out  of 

generally 


GENERAL  ODSERVATIONS.  351 

It  is  a  curious  proof  of  the  permanency  usually  given 
to  any  idea,  true  or  false,  by  popular  literature,  that 
well-informed  persons  in  this  country  are  still  occasion- 
ally licard  scoffing  at  Pennsylvania  on  account  of  her 
repudiated  bonds.     We  all  rememljcr  the  effect  of  the 
half-whimsical  complaints  of  the  Rev.  Sidney  Smith 
on  this  subject.     We  join  in  the  laugh,  sneer  at  the 
Pennsylvanians;  and  so  it  goes  on.     All  the  time,  it 
IS  an  absolute  fiction  that  this  stat.j  ever  repudiated 
her  debts.     She  did,  indeed,  at  a  moment  of  singular 
pecumary  difficulty,  affecting  the  whole  nation,  suspend 
payment  of  the  interest  of  her  bonds.     The  country 
having  been  so  far  drained  of  money,  that  barter  had 
to  be  resorted  to,  it  was  simply  impossible  for  the  state 
to  pay  tlie  interest  on  these  debts;  but  the  debts  were 
always  acknowledged,  and  as  soon  as  possible  payment 
of  the   interest  was  resumed.     No   one   ever  lost   a 
penny  by  Pennsylvania.     There  are,  indeed,  I  believe 
some  states  in  the  west  and  south  which  did  for  a  time 
repudiate;  and  even  the  most  temporary  exemplifica- 
tion of  such  a  system  must  be  deplored,  for  the  effect 
It  coidd  not  but  have  in  shaking  the  general  faith  in 
American    state    probity.      It    is    at    the   same  time 
true,   that    great   as   is  the   traffic   between  England 
and  America,*   we    hear    no   complaints   against  the 
uprightness  of  the   merchants  of  the  latter  country. 
It  appears  from  official  inquiry,  that,  independently  of 
debts  suspended  by  the  defaulting  states,  the  amount 
lent  by  foreigners   on  bonds  and  other  securities  to 
America   is,  at  the  lowest  calculation,  £40,000,000; 
and  the  interest  on  this  debt  is,  so  far  as  I  am  aware^ 
always  duly  paid. 

A   question    constantly   arises,    in    looking    at   the 

*  In  the  year  ending  June  30,  1852,  the  imports  into  the  United  States 
from  Great  Bntain  and  Ireland  were  valued  at  90,028,339  dollars,  and  the 
eiporta  to  115,509,975  dollars. 


362 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


I  I 


political  fabric  of  the  United  States :  '  Will  it  last 
— does  it  not  contain  within  itself  the  germs  of 
dissolution?'  in  offering  a  few  observations  in  reply, 
it  will  be  necessary  to  touch  upon  what  is  admitted 
to  be  the  most  unpleasant  social  feature  of  this 
remarkable  country. 

When  the  Americfin  colonists  renounced  their 
allegiance  to  Geoige  III.,  and  assumed  an  attitude 
of  independence,  it  was  confidently  predicted  that 
their  nationality,  unsupported  by  monarchical  and 
aristocratic  institutions,  could  not  possibly  endure 
beyond  the  first  outburst  of  enthusiasm.  The  experi- 
ence of  eighty  years  has  failed  to  realise  these  prog- 
nostications;  and  it  may  be  said  that  the  principle 
of  seVT-reliance  has  never  been  so  successfully  tested 
as  in  the  history  of  the  United  States.  Left  to 
themselves,  and  favoured  by  breadth  of  territory,  the 
progress  of  the  American  people  has  for  many  years 
been  no  ordinary  phenomenon. 

At  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  the  number 
of  states  was  thirteen,  with  a  population  of  about 
3,000,000 — a  wonderfully  small  number,  to  have 
defied  and  beat  off  the  British  monarchy.  In  1800, 
when  several  new  states  had  been  added  to  the  confe- 
deracy, the  population  was  little  more  than  6,000,000. 
During  the  next  fifty  years,  there  was  a  great 
advance.  In  1850,  when  the  number  of  states  had 
increased  to  thirty-one,  along  with  several  territories 
not  organised  into  states,  the  population  had  reached 
23,191,918.  At  this  point,  it  was  3,000,000  ahead 
of  that  of  the  island  of  Great  Britain;  and  as  at 
this  ratio  it  doubles  every  twenty-five  years,  we  might 
infer  that  towards  the  conclusion  of  the  present 
century,  the  United  States  will  possess  a  population  of 
not  far  from  100,000,000. 

Such  are  the  prospects  entertained  by  the  Americans 


ii]l  it  last 
germs  of 
a  in  reply, 
i  admitted 
e   of   this 

iced  their 
,n  attitude 
icted  that 
hical  and 
ly  endure 
'he  experi- 
liese  prog- 
;  principle 
illy  tested 
Left  to 
ritory,  the 
lany  years 

le  number 

of  about 

to    have 

In  1800, 

the  confe- 

6,000,000. 

a    great 

states  had 

territories 

d  reached 

100   ahead 

md  as   at 

we  might 

e    present 

tulation  of 

/Americans 


GENEIIAL  OBSERVATIONS.  3^3 

themselves,   with  perhaps  too  slight  .   regard  for    a 
seriously   disturbing    element    in    their     calculations 
Ihe  present  population,  as  above   stated,  are  not  all 
whites-exercising   the   privileges   and   animated  with 
the  sentiments  of  freemen.    In  the  number,  arc  com- 
prehended    3,204,345    slaves,    and    433,643    persons 
of   colour  nominally  free,   but    occupying   a  sociaUy 
degraded  position.     The  presence  of  such  an  immense 
mass  of  population,  alien  in  blood  and  aspect,  in  the 
midst  of  the   commonwealth,  is   an  awkward,  and    I 
lear,   a  dangerous,   feature  in   the    condition   of   the 
United  States,  which  cannot  be  passed  over  in   any 
impartial    estimate    of    the    prospective    growth  and 
digmty  of  the  country. 

At  the  Revolution,  there  was,  comparatively  speaking 
but  a  handful  of  negro  slaves  in  the  several  states, 
introduced  from  Africa  during  the  colonial  administra- 
tion;  and  it  was  probably  expected  by  Washington 
and  others,  that  in  time  the  number  would  diminish 
and  that,   finally,   it  would   disappear.     The   reverse' 
however,  has  been  the  result.     In  the  New  England 
States,    New  York,   New   Jersey,   and    Pennsylvania, 
slavery,  wherever  it  existed,  has  been  legaUy  abolished 
leaving  generaUy  a  residuum  of  free  negroes;  but  ii^ 
the  other  older  states,  slavery  is  still  in  force,  besides 
bemg  mgrafted  m  various  new  states,  which  have  been 
acqmred    by   conquest    or    purchase;    so  that,  as   an 
institution  with  large  vested  interests,  it  is  stronger 
and  more  lifelike  than  ever.     According  to  the  census 
ot  1850,  It  existed  in  fifteen  out  of  thii-ty-one  states  • 
m  one  of  them,  however— New  Jersey— it  was  in  the 
form  of  an  expiring  apprenticeship. 

For  a  number  of  years,  as  is  weU  known,  there  has 
been  much  angry  discussion  on  the  subject  between 
the  northern  and  southern  states;  and  at  times  the" 

contention   ha«i  i^qa^   ^^ i.    __  ^     i     ■.   . 

^i-iiu_   ,irite  „^cxi  oKj  giciiL,  ua  lo  leaa  to  mutual 

w 


i. 


854 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


threats  of  a  dismemberment  of  the  Union.  A  stranger 
has  no  little  difficulty  in  understanding  how  much  of 
this  war  of  words  is  real,  and  how  much  is  merely 
an  explosion  of  bunkum.  In  1820,  there  occurred 
a  kind  of  truce  between  the  belligerents,  called  the 
Missouri  Compromise;  by  which,  in  virtue  of  an 
Act  of  Congress,  all  the  territories  north  of  latitude 
36'  30'  were  guaranteed  free  institutions.  By  means  of 
subsequent  compromises,  fugitive  slaves  were  legally 
reclaimaljle  in  the  free  states ;  and  there  the  matter 
rested,  till  the  recent  passage  of  tlie  act  constituting 
the  state  of  Nebraska,  by  which  the  newly  incorpo- 
rated inhabitants,  though  north  of  the  line  of  demar- 
cation, are  left  the  choice  of  their  own  institutions — 
at  liberty,  if  they  please,  to  introduce  slavery.  The 
commotion  in  the  north,  consequent  on  this  trans- 
action, has  been  considerable;  and  according  to  a 
portion  of  the  press,  in  tracing  the  progress  of  events, 
'  Slavery  is  at  length  triumphant ;  Freedom  subservient' 
7— a  sufficiently  sorrowful  confession  to  make  respecting 
a  country  which  prides  itself  on  its  achievements  in  the 
cause  of  civil  liberty. 

I  repeat,  it  is  difficult  to  understand  what  is  the 
genuine  public  feeling  on  this  entangled  question ;  for 
with  all  the  demonstrations  in  favour  of  freedom  in 
the  north,  there  does  not  appear  in  that  quarter  to 
be  any  practical  relaxation  of  the  usages  which  con- 
demn persons  of  African  descent  to  an  inferior  social 
status.  There  seems,  in  short,  to  be  a  fixed  notion 
throughout  the  whole  of  the  states,  whether  slave  or 
free,  that  the  coloured  is  by  nature  a  subordinate  race ; 
and  that,  in  no  circumstances,  can  it  be  considered 
equal  to  the  white.  Apart  from  commercial  views, 
this  opinion  lies  at  the  root  of  American  slavery ;  and 
the  question  would  need  to  be  argued  less  on  political 
and    philanthropic    than    on    physiological    grounds. 


A  stranger 
w  much  of 

is  merely 
B  occurred 

called  the 
tue  of  an 
of  latitude 
y  means  of 
ere  legally 
the  matter 
onstituting 
ly  incorpo- 

of  demar- 
titutions — 
very.  The 
this  trans- 
'ding  to  a 
1  of  events, 
iibservient' 

respecting 
ents  in  the 

hat  is  the 
estion;  for 
freedom  in 
quarter  to 
;vhich  con- 
erior  social 
xed  notion 
;r  slave  or 
inate  race ; 
considered 
cial  views, 
ivery;  and 
m  political 
I    grounds. 


GENERAL  OBSEHVATIONS.  355 

Previous  to  mr  dtp.  ture  from  Richmond,  in  Virginia, 
I  had  an  aviavnj.ql   conversation  with  a  gentleman,  a 
resident  in  ihat  nty,  on  the  subject  of  slaveiy.     This 
person  gave  J-  as    is  sincere  opinion,  founded  on  clo.o 
observatiou,  anu  ^  number  of  physiological  facts,  that 
negroes  were  -      tufeiior  species  or  variety  of  human 
beings,  destiuea,  or  at  least   eminently  suited,  to  be 
servants   to   the   white   and   more   noble   race;    that 
considering  theii-  faculties,   they  were   happier  in    a 
state  of  slavery  than  in  freedom,  or  when  left  to  tlicii- 
own  expedients  for   subsistence;    and  that   their  sale 
and -transfer  was,  from  these  premises,  legitimate  and 
proper.     Such  opinions  are,  perhaps,  extrerjie;  but,  on 
the  whole,  I  believe   they  pretty  fairly  represent   the 
views  of  the  3outh  on  the  subject  of  slavery,*  wliich 
is  considered  to  be  not  merely  a  conventional,  but  an 
absolutely  natural  institution,  sanctioned  by  the  precept 
and  example  of  ministers  of  the  Gospel,  and  derived 
from  the  most  remote  usages  of  antiquity. 

It  may  have  been  merely  a  coincidence,  but  it  is 
remarkable,   tliat  all  with  whom  I  conversed  in  the 
States   on  the   distinctions    of   race,   tended    to    tlie 
opinion,    that    the    negro    was   in   many   respects  an 
inferior    being,    and    his    existence    in    America    an 
anomaly.     Tiie  want  of  mental  energy  and  forethought, 
the  love  of  finery  and  of  trifling  amusements,  distaste 
of    persevering    industry   and   bodily   labour,    as   well 
as   overpowering   animal  propensities,  were   urged   as 
general    characteristics    of   the   coloured    population; 
and   it    was    alleged,   that  when   consigned   to   their 
own  resources,  they  do  not  successfully  compete  with 
the  white   Anglo-Americans,   or  with  the   immigrant 
Irish;   the   fact    ueing    added,    that    in    slavery  they 

*  See  Types  ofManhind;  by  J.  C.  Nott  and  Geo.  R.  GliJdon.    1  vol.,  4to. 
Trubner  &  Co.,  London  ;  and  Lippincott,  Philadulpliia.     185'i. 


I 


356 


THINGS  AS  THEY  AftE  IN  AMERICA. 


'f 


increase  at  tlie  same  ratio  as  the  whites,  while  in 
freedom,  and  affected  with  the  vices  of  society,  the 
ratio  of  increase  falls  short  by  one-third.  Much  of 
this  was  new  to  me ;  and  I  was  not  a  little  surprised 
to  find,  when  speaking  a  kind  word  for  at  least  a  very 
unfortunate,  if  not  brilliant  race,  that  the  people  of 
the  northern  states,  though  repudiating  slavery,  did 
not  think  more  favourably  of  the  negro  character  than 
those  further  south.  Throughout  Massachusetts,  and 
other  New  England  States,  likewise  in  the  states  of 
New  York,  Pennsylvania,  &c.,  there  is  a  rigorous 
separation  of  the  white  and  black  races.  In  every 
city,  there  are  white  and  bla'.'k  schools,  and  white 
and  black  churches.  No  dark-skinned  child  is  suffered 
to  attend  a  school  for  whi+'>  childi-en.  In  Boston, 
celebrated  for  its  piety  and  philanthropy,  all  the 
coloured  children  require  to  go  to  one  school,  how- 
ever inconveniently  situated  it  may  be  for  some  of 
them.  This  school  was  instituted  in  1812,  and  the 
following  is  the  existing  ordinance  respecting  it: — 
'The  coloured  population  in  the  city  not  being  suffi- 
ciently numerous  to  require  more  than  one  school,  it 
has  been  thought  proper  to  provide  in  this  the 
means  of  instruction  in  all  the  branches  of  learning, 
which  are  taught  in  the  several  schools  for  white 
children.'*-  In  New  York,  there  are  nine  public 
schools  exclusively  for  coloured  children,  besides  a 
colom-ed  orphan  asylum.  In  the  city  of  Providence, 
Rhode  Island,  it  is  ordained  that  '  there  shall  be  three 
public  schools  maintained  exclusively  for  the  instruction 
of  coloured  children,  the  grades  thereof  to  be  deter- 
mined from  time  to  time  by  the  school  committee.'  In 
Philadelphia,  there  is  a  similar  orgt^nisation  of  district 
schools  for  coloured  children. 


♦  Rules  of  the  School  Committee  of  the  City  of  Boston,  1863;  p.  38. 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS.  867 

As  an  explanation  of  these  distinctions,  I  was  in- 
formed that  white  would  not  sit  beside  coloured 
children;  and  further,  that  coloured  chHdren,  after  a 
certain  age,  did  not  correspondingly  advaToe  in 
learning— their  inteUect  being  apparently  incapable 
of  being  cultured  beyond  a  particular  point.  From 
whatever  cause,  it  was  clear  that  a  reluctance  to 
associate  with  persons  of  negro  descent  was  universally 
inculcated  in  infimcy,  and  strengthened  with  age.  The 
result  is  a  singular  social  phenomenon.  We  see,  in 
efifect,  two  nations— one  wliite  and  another  black— 
growing  up  together  within  the  same  political  circle, 
but  never  mingling  on  a  principle  of  equality. 

The  people  of  England,  who  see  a  negro  only  as  a 
wandering  curiosity,  are  not  at  all  aware  of  the  repug- 
nance generally  entertained  toAvards  persons  of  colour 
m  the  United  States :  it  appeared  to  me  to  amount  to 
an  absolute  monomania.     As  for  an  alliance  with  one 
of  the  race,  no  matter  how  faint  the  shade  of  colour, 
it  would  inevitably  lead  to  a  loss  of  caste,  as  fatal  to 
social  position  and  family  ties  as  any  that  occm's  in 
the  Brahminical  system.    Lately,  a  remarkable  illustra- 
tion of  this  occurred  at  New  Orleans.     It  was  a  law 
case,  involving  the  question  of  purity  of  blood.     The 
plaintiff,  George  Pandelly,  a  gentleman  in  a  respectable 
station,   sued  Victor  Wiltz   for   slander.      Wiltz   had 
said  that  Pandelly  had  a  taint  of  negro  blood  ;  inas- 
much as  one   of    his  ancestresses   was   a  mulatto   of 
'  African  combination.'     In  describing  the  case  to  the 
court,  the  counsel  for  the  plaintiff  was  so  overcome  by 
the  enormity  of  the  offence,  that  he  shed  tears  !    He 
produced   several    aged  witnesses    to  prove  that    the 
ancestress,   mentioned    by   Wiltz   as   a   mulatto,   was 
the  great-great-grandmother  of  the  plaintiff,  and  was 
not  a  mulatto  of  negro  origin,  but  a  woman  who  had 
derived  her      '        "        ""    " 


lour  from  Ind 


lan 


?d !     Sati 


aiicu  wiul 


358 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


li  j 


'  n 


:   > 


I  f 


!ii 


V  'I 


the  evidence  on  this  important  point,  the  jury  found  a 
verdict  for  the  plaintiff,  but  no  damages;  which  was 
considered  satisfactory— the  sole  object  of  Mr  Pandelly 
having  been  to  establish  the  purity  of  his  descent. 

All  the  efforts,  in  my  opinion,  which  may  be  made 
with  a  view   to  influencing   the   south   in  favour  of 
emancipation,  are   valueless  so  long  as  there  exists  a 
determined   resolution  throughout  northern  society  to 
consider  the  coloured  race,  in  all  its  varieties  of  shade, 
as  beneath  the  dignity  of  liimian  nature,  and  in  no 
respect  worthy  to   be   associated  mt\  countenanced, 
honoured,  or  so  much  as  spoken  to  on  terms  of  equality. 
Excluded,  by  such  inflexible  and  carefully  nourished 
prejudices,  from  entertaining  the  slightest  prospect  of 
ever, rising  beyond  the  humblest  position;  condemned 
to  infamy  from  birth;  not  tolerated  in  tlie  railway-cars 
which  are  devoted  to  the  use  of  the  whites;  turned 
away  from  any  of  the  ordinary  hotels,  no  matter  what 
be  their  character,  means,  or  style  of  dress ;  in  a  word, 
treated  from  first  to  last  as  Parias—how  can  we  expect 
that  objects  of  so  much  contumely  are  to  improve  in 
their  faculties  or  feelings,  or  to  possess,  in  any  degree, 
the  vii-tue  of  self-respect  ?     The  wonder,  indeed,  is,  that 
they  conduct  themselves  so  well  as  they  do,  or  that 
they  assume  anything  hke    the  dress  or  manners  of 
civilised  persons. 

Glad  to  have  had  an  opportunity  of  caUing  attention 
to  many  cheering  and  commendable  features  in  the 
social  system  of  the  Americans,  I  consider  it  not  less 
my  duty  to  say,  that  in  their  general  conduct  towards 
the  coloured  race,  a  wi'ong  is  done  which  cannot  be 
alluded  to  except  in  terms  of  the  deepest  sorrow  and 
reproach.  I  cannot  think  without  shame  of  the 
pious  and  polished  New  Eiiglanders  addmg  to  their 
offences  on  this  score,  the  guilt  of  hypocrisy.  Aftectiinc 
to  weep  over  the  sufferings  of  imaginary  dark-skinned 


ury  found  a 

which  was 
Ir  Pandelly 
scent. 

ly  be  made 
favour  of 
re  exists  a 
1  society  to 
;s  of  shade, 

and  in  no 
mtenancedj 
of  equality. 

nourished 
prospect  of 
condemned 
ailway-cars 
es;  turned 
latter  what 

in  a  word, 
I  we  expect 
improve  in 
my  degree, 
ed,  is,  that 
io,  or  that 
aanners  of 

J  attention 
res  in  the 
it  not  less 
ct  towards 
cannot  be 
orrow  and 
e  of  the 
J,"  to  their 
Aflcctiiwt 
'k-skinned 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS.  359 

heroes  and  heroines;  denouncing  in  well-studied  plat- 
form oratory  the  horrid  sin  of  reducing  human  beings 
to  the  abject  condition  of  chattels;   bitterly  scomfiU 
of  southern  planters  for  hard-hearted  selfishness  and 
depravity;  fanatical  on  the  subject  of  abolition;  whoUy 
frantic  at  the  spectacle  of  fugitive  slaves  seized  and 
earned  back  to  their  owners— these  very  persons  are 
daUy  surrounded  by  manumitted  slaves,  or  their  edu- 
cated descendants,  yet  shrink  from  them  as  if  the  touch 
were  poUution,  and  look  as  if  they  would  expire  at 
tlie  bare  idea  of  inviting  one  of  them  to  their  house 
or   table.      UntU    all  this   is   changed,   the  northern 
Abolitionists  place  themselves  in  a  false  position,  and 
do  damage  to  the  cause  they  espouse.     If  they  think 
that  negroes  are  Men,   let   them  give  the  world  an 
evidence  of  their  sincerity,  by  moving  the  reversal  of 
all  those  social  and  political  arrangements  which  now 
in  the  free  states  exclude  persons  of  colour,  not  only 
from  the   common   courtesies   of  life,   but   from  the 
privHeges  and  honours  of  citizens.     I  say,  until  this  is 
done,  the  uproar  aljout  abolition  is  a  delusion  and  a 
snare.     As   things  remain,   the  owners  of  slaves  are 
fiirnished  with  the  excuse  that  emancipation,  besides 
being  attended  with  no  practical  benefit,  would  be  an 
act  of  cruelty  to  their  dependents;  for  that  the  educa- 
tion given  to  free  persons  of  colour  only  aggravates  the 
severity  of  their  condition— makes  them  feel  a  sense  of 
degradation  f7'>m  which,  as  slaves  ir.  a  state  of  ignorance, 
they  are  happily  exempted.     The  great  question,,  then] 
is,  What   is   to  be  done  with  the  slaves  if  they  are 
set  at  liberty  ?    Are  they  to  grow  up  a  powerfiil  alien 
peu^iio  within  the  commonwealth,  dangerous  in  their 
numbers,  but  doubly  dangerous  in  tlieir  conscious- 
ness   of  wrongs,    and    in    the    passions  which    may 
incite  them  to  acts  of  vengeance  ? 

Serious  as  m  this  question,  there  is  oae,  perhaps,  still 


!h' 


860 


THINGS  AS  TIIEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


more  serious.     Are  the  slaves  to  go  on  increasing  in 
a   geometrical  ratio— 6,000,000  in   187E,    13,000,000 
in  1900 ;  and  so  on  through  an  infinitude  of  years  ? 
Sympathising  so  far  with  the  Americans  in  the  dilemma 
in  which  circumstances  have  placed  them,  I   cannot 
say   they   have  acted    with    discretion    in   seeing  tliis 
portentous  evil  widen  in  its  sphere,  and  swell  to  such 
vast  dimensions,  as  at  length  to  go  beyond  the  reach 
of  all  ordinary  measures  of  connection.     Nay,  at  ilii.j 
moment  the  canker  is  extending  its  ramifications  .  ,  er 
the  boundless  territories  of  the  West ;  and  it  is  to  be 
feared  that,  in  a  few  years  hence,  the  northern  and 
middle  free  states  will  be  but  a  speck  in  comparison 
with  the  slave  region.     This  is   a  thing  which  con- 
•  cems,  not    the    Americans    alone,    but    the    whole 
civilised    world.      The    highest    intellects    of    Europe 
are    looking   with    breathless   Avonder    at    the    spread 
of  the  Anglo-Saxon  race,  impelled  by  their  instincts, 
and  led  by  the  hand  of  God  over  the  vast  continent 
of   America.*      They   talk    of   the    not   distant  time 
when   there   will   be   a   nation   counted   by  hundreds 
of  millions,  speaking  the  Enghsh  tongue,  and  governed 
by    the    institutes   of  freemen.      But   always,   in   the 
midst    of   their    glowing    anticipations,    there    arises 
a    terrific    spectre — human    slavery — reminding    them 
that  it    was    this    wliich    blighted    the    old    civilisa- 
tions, Egypt,  Greece,  Rome — and  why  not  America  ! 
Already    in    Virginia,    natm-ally    rich    and    beautiful, 
t!iere  is  a  growing  impoverishment,   notwithstanding 
that  large  sums  are  realised  by  the  individuals  who 
rear    human     stock    for    tlie    southern    plantations. 
In   the   partially   deteriorated   state   of  that   fine   old 
English    domain,    and    its   apparent    incapabihty    of 

*  li.  do  Tocqueville  speaks  of  the  progressive  settlement  of  the  Anglo- 
Saxons,  as  '  driven  by  the  hand  of  God'  across  the  western  wilderness,  at  the 
average  rate  of  seventeen  miles  per  annum. 


*f^M 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS.  qqi 

oHh^/n-"!"  V*  ^'"'u""""  P^^P^o™  communities 
nLl^l  >  T^  ^  "^^  *°  approximate  to  the 
physieal  and  moral  condition  wUch  disfigured  Italy 
m  the  second  century.  Is  history  to  be  an  endless 
series  of  repetitions?  >«■  enaiess 

What   the  Americans  may  do  to   counteract  the 
danger  which  threatens  them,  I  camiot  take  it  upon 
me  to  say.     With  a  growing  bcUef  that  slavery  is 
mjmnous  to  the  industrial  and  moral  progress  rf  a 
state,  the  mstitution  may,  in  no  great  length  of  time 
^sappear   lijom  Delaware,   Maryland,  V^nia,    and 
Kentucky,    because   these    states    enjoy  a^tem^r^ 
chmato,    and   are   a  fitting  field   for  the  settlement 
of  cnterpnsing  immigrants.     Its  expulsion  from  the 
intertropical    regions    in   the    south,    is   matter   for 
less    »an,^aine   hope.      The  demand    for    American 
cotton  m  the  markets  of  Europe,  increasing  year  by 
year    too   sm-ely  strengthens   the  institution  in  the 
southern    states,    and    surrounds    the   subject    with 
diftcidties   not  to  be  treated  lightly  or  sentimentally, 
but  with  the  profound  consideration  of  practical  states' 
manship.     That  things  can  remain  as  they  are,  as 
regards  the  relationship  between  the  South  and  the 
North,  is  by  no  means  probable.    The  interests  and 
feelings  of  bo  h   are  becoming  mutually  opposite  and 

that  the  South,  smarting  mider  alleged  losses  and 
indignities  took  the  initiative  of  breaking  up  the 
Union,  and  setting  up  for  itself  as  an  independent 
power  In  such  a  conjunctm^e,  the  North,  reduced  to  a 
second-rate  sovereignty,  could  scarcely  be  expected  to 
retain  a  hold  over  the  West,  which  would  either  form 
a  third  group  of  independent  states,  or  seek  for 
federahon  ,vith  the  South.  And  so,  in  so  far  as  poli- 
tical Unity  ,5  concerned,  falls  the  mighty  fabric 
raised  by  Washington.    a„,]    nf  „!.„.„   4,4__        . 


iif 


■t, 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 

high  anticipations  have  been  entertained !  In  Canada 
— free  from  the  taint  and  the  contentions  consequent 
on  slavery,  and  enjoying  a  high  degree  of  liberty — I 
found  it  to  be  a  common  behef,  that  the  union  of  the 
States  could  not  possibly  long  hold  together ;  and  that 
the  North,  in  the  event  of  a  rupture,  would  sue  for  a 
federation  with  the  British  American  provinces,  as  a 
natural  ally.  That  these  provinces — united,  populous, 
and  prosperous — will,  some  day,  attain  the  dignity  of 
an  independent  nation,  few  can  doubt;  but  it  is 
evident,  that  annexation  to  the  States  in  present  cir- 
cumstances would  be  neitlier  agreeable  nor  expedient, 
and  will  not  be  thought  of.* 

While  lamenting  the  unsatisfactory  condition,  present 
and  *  prospective,  of  the  coloured  population,  it  is 
gratifying  to  consider  the  energetic  measures  that 
have  been  adopted  by  the  African  Colonisation 
Society  to  transplant,  with  their  own  consent,  free 
negroes  from  America  to  Liberia.  Viewing  these 
endeavours  as  at  all  events  a  means  of  encouraging 
emancipation,   checking    the    slave-trade,   and   at   the 


*  On  this  point,  I  may  be  permitted  to  draw  attention  to  the  folloAving 
emphatic  passages  in  a  speech  In  the  House  of  Assembly  of  Nova  Scotia, 
delivered  in  May  last  by  the  Hon.  Joseph  Howe,  provincial  secretary: — 
'  Sir,  I  believe  annexation  would  be  imwise  for  other  reasons.  I  believe  the 
United  States  are  large  enough  already.  In  a  few  years,  the  population  of 
that  country  must  reach  100,000,000  ;  they  have  as  much  work  to  do  now 
as  they  can  do  well ;  and  I  believe  before  many  years,  if  their  union  is  pre- 
served, they  will  have  more  work  to  do  than  any  legislature  can  despatch 
after  their  modes  in  3(55  days.  .  ,  .  There  is  another  question  which  must 
be  settled  before  you,  or  I,  sir,  or  any  Nova  Scotian,  will  be  a  party  to 
annexation.  Sir,  I  believe  the  question  of  slavery  must  be  settled  sooner  or 
later  by  bloodsheiJ,  I  do  not  believe  it  can  over  be  settled  in  any  other  way. 
That  queijtion  shadows  the  institutions,  and  poisons  the  springs  of  public  and 
social  life  among  our  neighbours.  It  saps  all  principles,  overric.es  all  obli- 
gations, Wiy,  si)',  I  did  believe,  until  very  lately,  that  no  constable,  ai'med 
with  a  law  which  violated  the  law  of  God,  could  capture  a  slave  in  any  of 
the  northern  states;  but  the  Fugitive  Slave  Law  has  been  enforced  even  in 
Puritan  New  England,  where  tea  could  not  be  sold  or  stamps  collected,' 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS.  ggg 

same  time  of  mtroducing  Christianity  and  civilised 
usages  mto  Afriea,  they  appear  to  have  been  d^^t 
of  more  encouragement  than  they  have  had  the  good! 

dtr  th.  """:••      'T"^'^  ^"^^  -  ^  - '"ate 

to^nL       r'"*'"^'   ^^  *^^^   «°^i^*y  ^^^  ^-*  likely 
to  make  a  deep  impression  on  the  numbers  of  the 

CO  oured  population;  and  the  question  of  their  disposal 
still  remains  unsettled.  ^ 

With  a  conviction  that  much  harm  has  been  done 
by    exasperating    reproaches    from    this   side   of    the 
Atlantic    on  the  subject  of  slavery,  I  have  done  little 
more  than  glance  at  the  institution,  or  the  dangers 
which    through  Its  agency,  menace  the  integrity  of 
the    Union.     I    have,    likewise,   refrained  from    any 
lengthened  comment  on  the  constant  discord  arising 
from  the  violence  of  faction,  and  have  barely  alluded 
to  the  extreme  hazards  into  which  the  nation,  under 
the  mipulse  of  popular  clamour,  is,  from  time  to  time, 
hurried  by  reckless  legislation. 

Trustful  that  the  American    confederation  is    not 
destmed    to    be    dismembered  through  the    unhappy 
conflicts  which  now  agitate  the  community-trustftd 
that  the  question  of  slavery  is  to  be  settled  in  a  manner 
more  peaceful   than  is  figured  in  the  speech   of   Mr 
Howe-and  having  great  faith  in  the  power  and  acute 
nteUigence   of  the  American  people  to   cany  them 
through  every  difficulty   (all  their  political  squabbles 
notwithstanding),  provided  they  will  only  take  time  to 
look  ahead,  and  avoid  the  perils  that  beset  their  course 
1  bia  tnem  and  their  comitry  a  respectful  farewcH. 

At  noon  of  the  14th  of  December.  I  went  on  board 
the  steamer  Enropa  at  N^w  York,  and  in  a  few  hours 
the  shores  of  America  sunk  beneath  the  waves  of  the 
Atlantic.  In  thus  quitting  the  New  World,  I  felt  how 
imperfect  had  been  my  acqiiaintanceshin  with  it.     But 


864 


THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE  IN  AMERICA. 


I  was  pleased  to  think  that  I  had  realised  a  long- 
cherished  wish,  and  was  now  able  to  speak,  though 
with  diffidence,  of  the  great  country  to  which  so  many 
inquiring  minds  are  at  present  eagerly  directed. 

After  a  voyage  unmarked  by  any  particular  incident, 
I  anived  in  Liverpool  on  the  evening  of  the  36th  of 
December. 


TU£  END. 


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Elementary  German  Grammar 
(nearly  ready.) 

GCTman  Dictionary.    Part  I.  German- 
English,    ....  6f    Od 

Part  II.  EnglLh-German,  in  preparation. 
German  Synonyms,  Dictionary  of,  2f   6d 

,    ,  MUSIC. 

Manual  of  Music,        .        .       .    3* 


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URSE. 


THEMATICS. 
a*  6d 


itry, 
[•arts, 
ties,    , 


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I., 


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3f  Od 

3f  Od 

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4f  Od 

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If  6d 

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Py,  .  2f  Od 
I  •  3f  6d 
■y.  .  If  3d 
I  .  2f  Od 
roises,  2f  Od 
nglish,  9f  Od 
Part,  Bt  Od 
Part,    4f   6d 

•  2f   6d 
2f    Od 

.    3f    6d 

df    6d 

.    3f    6d 

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csand 

leid,     3f   6d 

•  4f    Od 
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3*  Od 

3f  6d 

2f  Od 


Oerman- 
.    fif  Od 

eparation, 
fyof,  2f   6d 


.    3f   Od 
JO,  &  Co., 


